Td42 turbo

[jacobangel1993]

Hey guys im about to do a turbo install 16g mamba!! Is it ok to run my oil drain on the back of the alternator? Anyone have photos of this?http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/08/334.jpg

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[AB]

People have done it and it works but I wouldn't personally.

Assume this is this going on a GQ?

You really want the oil to drain away from the turbo as fast as possible direct to the sump, hence ideally you want to put an oil drain on your sump.

Tapping into the alternator is a small fitting and your also using a T to tap into it.

Can easily cause a back log of oil pushing up to your turbo and blowing your seals on turbo.

[jff45]

The alternator oil return in the block is 3/8 BSPT. The factory turbo oil return in the block is 3/4 BSPT.
If the oil foams a lot you're going to have big issues.

There's plenty of info & images on different forums showing how and where to pierce the sump with a sharp round point and tap a thread in it. All without removing the sump.

[PeeBee]

'pierce the sump with a sharp round point and tap a thread in it. All without removing the sump.'

I think this is a crazy idea to be honest. The metal fragments from the tap will get into the sump. The danger fragments are the ones that get broken , not the curly one - that sit in the valley of the tapping tool between the cutting threads, hence you risk contaminating the oil and everything in its path until it gets caught in the oil filter - provided it hasn't done any damage before that - I am referring to seals in particular. Second point is the sump is very thin, and even a hole the size of 3/8, let alone 3/4" will not have enough material thickness to allow the fitting to seal - you should be welding a socket into the sump in my view. take care with the welding - not too much heat as the pans are cold formed and highly stressed from the manufacturing process - heat will stress relieve it and it could become brittle. I am sure its been done and no doubt with success, but I would go this path to be safe. Lot more work, but total solution.

[AB]

Yep it is dodgy Phil but plenty do it including myself and had years trouble free.

Much better idea to weld a plug on for sure.

The sharp point splays the hole so no debris comes off and heavy Lube on the tap.

I had zero fragments in mine and enough bite to hold it on even through the craziest corrugated roads in Australia but yes agree to do the job right and weld a plug on.


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[PeeBee]

Yep it is dodgy Phil but plenty do it including myself and had years trouble free.

Much better idea to weld a plug on for sure.

The sharp point splays the hole so no debris comes off and heavy Lube on the tap.

I had zero fragments in mine and enough bite to hold it on even through the craziest corrugated roads in Australia but yes agree to do the job right and weld a plug on.


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OK, as I said its probably been done before and worked as you say. I am thinking the splay of material gives you the required tapping thickness in order to make this work.

[jff45]

Punching flares and tapping threads in them has been a manufacturing process for decades. It's a system used in place of spot welding nuts to sheet metal.

You can weld anything you want to a sheet metal sump. The TD42 sump and baffles are all welded because it has a shape that can't be made in a single press operation.

Here's a post I saw in the other forum that dates back to 2010.

"The easiest way is to drill a 1/8th drill through your sump (while its still on the motor) fill the drill flutes with bearing grease to catch the swarf. Then flare the hole open with a tapered punch (sump steel is weak as piss and easy to flare) then tap a thread into the flared hole.
ALOT of performance shops do it this way, i have done it this way on a falcon and it worked very well."

[Rossco]

Yep it is dodgy Phil but plenty do it including myself and had years trouble free.

Much better idea to weld a plug on for sure.

The sharp point splays the hole so no debris comes off and heavy Lube on the tap.

I had zero fragments in mine and enough bite to hold it on even through the craziest corrugated roads in Australia but yes agree to do the job right and weld a plug on.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkRemember watching yours get done was like watching a lobotomy bring performed . . . Bit scary does work but, if you know what your doing [emoji6] . . .

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[jacobangel1993]

How hard is it to take the sump off?

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[Rossco]

Easy, just a heap of 10mm bolts and then drops down.

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[Deano2506]

I've just put turbo on mine.
I bought a 2nd hand sump...$60,welded the fitting on then swapped it straight over then sold my sump for $60.
So it cost me $35 for new gasket.
It's an easy job just messy.
There's about 30 bolts on sump and take off the 2 engine to bell housing braces as well as the 2 lower clutch cover bolts so you can drop the sump.
Takes a bit of maneuvering of the sump to get it out but it does come out.
Good luck with it

[4bye4]

G'day mate and welcome to the forum

[growler2058]

G'day welcome to the forum mate