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jay see
4th August 2017, 04:47 PM
I finally got around to having a look at where my slight oil leak is coming from. Looks like it's coming from the original oil pressure switch. As per the photo it's dry closest to the engine block however it looks wet where the plug side is, could this be leaking from there.

I might have also found the culprit to my lowish oil pressure. I took the T out and found a bit of junk stuck in their, blew it out, put it back together, started, oil pressure little better don't really know till I give it a good run.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/08/29.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/08/30.jpg

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GQtdauto
4th August 2017, 05:10 PM
Unusual for the actual sender unit to leak but looks to me like that's what is happening .

jay see
4th August 2017, 05:35 PM
Unusual for the actual sender unit to leak but looks to me like that's what is happening .Yeah, never seen it before. mudski any left.

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mudski
5th August 2017, 11:07 PM
Not all that uncommon for the sender unit to leak. The bakelite section goes hard and brittle from the years on engine heat and eventually oil leaks through where it seals in the metal housing.
I got some switches still mate, but you have a Supershit Auto near by. They will have one.

BigRAWesty
5th August 2017, 11:41 PM
Those senders are bloody close to the turbo, and i see yours hasnt got the heat sheild fitted anymore.
Can see why its failed, cheap easy fix though..

mudski
5th August 2017, 11:45 PM
Those senders are bloody close to the turbo, and i see yours hasnt got the heat sheild fitted anymore.
Can see why its failed, cheap easy fix though..

No turbo on his donk Kallen. Its a 4.5 petty...

BigRAWesty
6th August 2017, 12:00 AM
No turbo on his donk Kallen. Its a 4.5 petty...Augh righto.
That last pic i saw the heat sheild.and looks similar to my zd.
But really thats probably worse as the petties run hotter than diesels..

jay see
6th August 2017, 12:10 AM
Not all that uncommon for the sender unit to leak. The bakelite section goes hard and brittle from the years on engine heat and eventually oil leaks through where it seals in the metal housing.
I got some switches still mate, but you have a Supershit Auto near by. They will have one.Yeah picked one up today while was there. Will fit it tomorrow.

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jay see
6th August 2017, 04:37 PM
Job done and no more leak.:Yahoo!:

Doesn't look like it's done anything for the oil pressure.:(

dom14
10th August 2017, 05:57 AM
Job done and no more leak.:Yahoo!:

Doesn't look like it's done anything for the oil pressure.:(

For the oil pressure, it's better not to rely on the stock(or even aftermarket) gauge.
It's always better to fit an external meter gauge and confirm it. Yours have a T, so I'm guessing there is
an aftermarket oil pressure gauge fitted. If both stock & aftermarket gauge are showing as low oil pressure, then
it might have low oil pressure, but I wouldn't try anything big to fix the oil pressure issue,
until I confirm with an external oil pressure meter.

Mine has been showing low oil pressure since the beginning of time and the oil pressure suddenly sprung back
after I took the oil pressure sender out and cleaned it with carby cleaner and pressurized air.
The tiny hole that the oil goes through to put pressure on the spring mechanism inside the sender unit get
clogged up with gunk eventually. Instead of buying a new one for $120, I cleaned the old one and put it back, as good
as new. The other possible issue is the electrical connection/resistance. Sender's body itself is the negative(in mine).
Lot can happen with a weak earth connection.

jay see
18th August 2017, 07:58 PM
No turbo on his donk Kallen. Its a 4.5 petty...

Well not yet..


For the oil pressure, it's better not to rely on the stock(or even aftermarket) gauge.
It's always better to fit an external meter gauge and confirm it. Yours have a T, so I'm guessing there is
an aftermarket oil pressure gauge fitted. If both stock & aftermarket gauge are showing as low oil pressure, then
it might have low oil pressure, but I wouldn't try anything big to fix the oil pressure issue,
until I confirm with an external oil pressure meter.

The original is only a switch to throw the light on the dash.. Won't be doing anything until I get a mechanical gauge one there. It's got some pressure but did have more before I went to cobaw 15-20 on idle now 1-10, driving was 45 now 30ish. Having said that it's probably pushing 1/2 million Ks and could do with a freshen up. Have checked out a bottom end bearing kit, not a lot of $$$ just need to find a weekend that my brother and I are both free.

Mine has been showing low oil pressure since the beginning of time and the oil pressure suddenly sprung back
after I took the oil pressure sender out and cleaned it with carby cleaner and pressurized air.
The tiny hole that the oil goes through to put pressure on the spring mechanism inside the sender unit get
clogged up with gunk eventually. Instead of buying a new one for $120, I cleaned the old one and put it back, as good
as new. The other possible issue is the electrical connection/resistance. Sender's body itself is the negative(in mine).
Lot can happen with a weak earth connection.

$120 ouch.. mine was $12..

jay see
18th August 2017, 08:01 PM
Those senders are bloody close to the turbo, and i see yours hasnt got the heat sheild fitted anymore.
Can see why its failed, cheap easy fix though..

Sorry mate missed this completely.

dom14
19th August 2017, 07:04 AM
Well not yet..



$120 ouch.. mine was $12..

Yeah, RB30 engine oil pressure warning switch & oil pressure sender is a single unit and it's usually available genuine only.
Having said that, I've seen compatible ones from China under ten bucks.
It was a waste of money to pay $120 'cos you can get a decent aftermarket unit with an alarm for that price.
That's why I decided to have a closer look at the old one. It was just a matter of cleaning it.
It's nearly two years since I cleaned it and put it back and the oil pressure is still good.

I didn't know yours have done around a half a million km's, but still might be in good nick bearing wise & bottom end wise 'cos
your engine is a non turbo.
Ebay's selling oil pressure meters for around $30 or so. Mine's an ebay one. Get a one and plug it to the T joint
and check the pressure.

I have a gut feeling yours doesn't have a mechanical oil pressure issue but an electrical one.
If the oil pressure is markedly low then I reckon you would notice other issues as well.
I reckon it's quite rare for big end bearings to wear without wearing the piston rings even further.
If the piston rings are worn, then you would notice oil loss/blow-by/black smoke issues. Since you don't have those symptoms I am guessing it is rare for the big ends to wear on it's own, but I am no engine rebuilder though.
I just go by logic which does work most of the time but not always. :)
Also, if the bearings are worn then you would start to hear some kinda bearing knock as well I reckon.

Lets say for the sake of the argument it is actually caused by big end wear, then I wouldn't wanna to take it off road.
I'm thinking it is not too expensive or probably not too hard either to replace the big end bearings by dropping the oil pan, but definitely
would confirm with the diagnosis first.

Who knows! It could be a dodgy oil pump as well, even though it is not a common scenario.

dom14
19th August 2017, 07:20 AM
Well not yet..



$120 ouch.. mine was $12..

There is something you can do to diagnose big end wear as demonstrated by below video. It's fairly easy to do.
Avoid the first eight minutes of the video 'cos the fella's giving a religious sermon in first eight minutes before he got into the the subject of the video. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FK_y9Ghexy4