Blocking the EGR Valve

[the ferret]

Thanks the ferret your EGR plates will they fit the 4.2?

Yep perfect fit, they are slotted so there is no need to pull it all apart.
Cheers, the ferret.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/42pic.jpg

[the ferret]

Hi Ferret do you really need to clean all the gunk off? wouldn't it burn off?
or thats not possible with the EGR blocked bypassing it
That would be like sticking a band aid over a cut without cleaning it first.
It's best to clean the inlet manifold as best you can, along with intercooler etc.
The cleaner, the better.
Cheers, the ferret.

[threedogs]

Okey Dokey Took the intercooler off last week to clean and it was dry as with no oil at all,
thinking not bad for 185,000K, I'll check the throttle body as well next weekend ,thanks

[kiwijase]

does the td42 have a egr valve,i cant see one on my old pig?

[the ferret]

The early 4.2s had no EGR system, probably why they last so long lol
Cheers, the ferret.

[kiwijase]

mean,cheers ferret

[Phelpsie]

Hey guys I have a 05 gu sts thinking of blocking the egr but not until I get gauges fitted where abouts is this other valve your taking about to drop boost if it spikes after the plate is put in?
And also when cleaning the intercooler hoses what else should be cleaned
Sorry new to a Nissan not much knowledge

[damaverick]

Is this mod only applicable to turbo models or can it be done on naturally aspirated models as well? I have a TB42S running on dual fuel system (petrol/gas)

[threedogs]

Common mod to all turbo diesel

[damaverick]

So should it be done on naturally aspirated petrol/gas models or not?

[the ferret]

My opinion is that any engine that has EGR, it should be done away with or blocked.
Blocking the EGR on your NA TB42 shouldn't be a problem, you just need to convince the ECU.
Cheers, the ferret.

[threedogs]

Only heard being good for turbo diesel only, but PM the Ferret

[the ferret]

Thanks John, I hope you are feeling much better too by the way.

I think as said a moment ago, you don't need the crap buildup in any engine if it contains carbon from the exhaust, petty or diesel.
Cheers, the ferret

[threedogs]

Up date in Heres Johnnie

[itchyvet]

Question; After reading all the negative comments on here regarding EGR, I find I must ask the question, are all DIESEL powered vehicles today fitted with this system ?
I KNOW, my 2006 ST I 3 liter Patrol IS, I also KNOW my son's 2000 Toyota Prado is also fitted with EGR, I also KNOW my mates Puegot sedan 2004 is also fitted with EGR, therefore the question I have for all posters on here,
IF, EGR is the evil it is claimed to be here, for the long levity of our engines, how come all these other manufacturers vehicles do not suffer from this system as it is alleged our Patrols do ?
There are literly thousands of vehicles inculding large trucks running around with these systems fitted in Australia and Europe, yet it would appear, operate perfectly.
Why the disparigity with Nissan Patrol engines ?
Is it just Nissan Patrols that suffer from this system ? Seems a bit strange if it only applies to Nissan .

[P4trol]

Of course being a Nissan forum, it is forbidden to mention other brands that may or may not have better designs...

I would be interested in the answer too from someone with more authorita than 'my mechanic mate'

Anyway I remember hearing my mechanic mate saying it does affect other brands too.

Unfortunately because of the grenade issue, everyone is being cautious, walking the higher moral ground - however that applies to engines. Given the way the grenade problem manifests itself, blocking the egr both makes sense, and takes one more factor out of the engine going "BOOM"!





Tipsy-tap

[the ferret]

All I can tell you mate, is that the EGR system was introduced as an environmental thing.
Just about every modern engine is fitted with one, even the petrol motors.
Time will only tell if these trucks as you say are operating perfectly as long as they would without EGR.
All engines breathe and earlier engines vented the crankcase to the atmosphere however, the environmentalists in their wisdom decided it was better to burn it.
So what happens is that the carbon and soot from the exhaust is routed back into the combustion chamber via the EGR valve and inlet manifold.
This in itself is bad enough, but add to this an oily vapour from the PCV going also into the inlet manifold.
This tar like paste adheres to the inside of the inlet manifold and after a while begins to restrict the cool airflow to the cylinders.
Now the engine is running on borrowed time due to the extra heat and can cause piston and head failure as well as other damage.
Yes, the ZD30 DI has a bad reputation for grenading, I am inclined to think that the whole structure of this motor leaves a lot to be desired.
It's not uncommon for a TD4.2 to do half a million Ks, even with EGR, but I don't think many ZD30s have.
Blocking the EGR is your choice, I would recommend it, as well as a catch can.
Thankyou for listening.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Chaz]

Question; After reading all the negative comments on here regarding EGR, I find I must ask the question, are all DIESEL powered vehicles today fitted with this system ?
I KNOW, my 2006 ST I 3 liter Patrol IS, I also KNOW my son's 2000 Toyota Prado is also fitted with EGR, I also KNOW my mates Puegot sedan 2004 is also fitted with EGR, therefore the question I have for all posters on here,
IF, EGR is the evil it is claimed to be here, for the long levity of our engines, how come all these other manufacturers vehicles do not suffer from this system as it is alleged our Patrols do ?
There are literly thousands of vehicles inculding large trucks running around with these systems fitted in Australia and Europe, yet it would appear, operate perfectly.
Why the disparigity with Nissan Patrol engines ?
Is it just Nissan Patrols that suffer from this system ? Seems a bit strange if it only applies to Nissan .

The simple answer is that while all modern diesels do operate with some level EGR, the ZD30 uses very high levels. Peugot do have their problems also as do many other manufacturers, but the Nissan ZD30 was designed to be a very clean burning light diesel and it even won an award back in 1999 or 2000 ( I can’t remember exactly when) for being the environmentally cleanest diesel engine to date and this was due to its M-Fire design and extremely high levels of EGR.

If you remove the inlet manifolds or throttle bodies from any light diesel engines you will see similar results, but in most cases the carbon build up is dry which results in less accumulation. Therefore while it’s still corrosive, it doesn’t block the intake manifold runners as severely. In our case with much higher levels of EGR and excessive oil contamination due to a poor crankcase ventilation system, the wet or greasy buildup is much more excessive causing uneven intake air distribution, resulting in uneven fuel mixtures and we all know the result of that.

[bad055]

just going out to do this to mine now.lol

[Franki]

Do the CRD models need this as well?

[MEGOMONSTER]

I'm pretty sure mines blocked 2011 GU


Publicly speaking to a private audience.

[the ferret]

Do the CRD models need this as well?

Mate, if you could see inside your inlet manfold, you would see what the combination of carbon from your exhaust and PCV vapour does.
There is a lot of reading that can be done to help you make up your own mind on this and other forums with all types of vehicles.
Too much to try and explain here.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Gunner93]

Hey Guys,

I'm looking at buying an '04 3l patrol which already has a heap of mods (not too sure about this one yet) and id be interested in doing this and fitting a catch can, is a dawes valve needed/recommended with this mod? It already has boost and egt gauges, chip, 3" exhaust etc. Just worried about overboosting and the like. I dont know all that much about engines, although I have learnt heaps over the last few days just from reading through forums so im not complteley incompetent haha.

Any help would be wicked,

Cheers
Gunner

[WYLD333]

Hey Guys,

I'm looking at buying an '04 3l patrol which already has a heap of mods (not too sure about this one yet) and id be interested in doing this and fitting a catch can, is a dawes valve needed/recommended with this mod? It already has boost and egt gauges, chip, 3" exhaust etc. Just worried about overboosting and the like. I dont know all that much about engines, although I have learnt heaps over the last few days just from reading through forums so im not complteley incompetent haha.

Any help would be wicked,

Cheers
Gunner


Hey mate seen as you already have the boost and egt you are in good shape, definatley block that egr if not already done. The dawes valve and needle valve should be done without question it will give u alot smoother ride with more response and alot lower egt's

[Gunner93]

Sorry if its a stupid question but how will they give a smoother ride and more response? Just through having better control of the boost?

[WYLD333]

The needle valve will let ur turbo spool up alot faster than normal, and you can raise or lower boost threw your dawes and stop any boost spikes

[mcleod]

great thread, thanks to all for the info in here. 150K on the clock in my patrol with EGR still active, better start thinking about blocking it soon.

[twinotter600]

If it's a GQ and everything is still working just unplug it in the engine bay.

[Acidik]

Brilliant thread, definitely my next mod!

[mudski]

Just letting you guys know I have Di plates in stock and will have 2.8, 4.2 and Navara ones coming very soon. Also Crd Patrol ones coming in a few weeks.



I tapped that app...

[fracster]

Ok, I have a blank on order for my 2.8 and will remove the butterfly. Question is, where and why do I need to fit a catch can please?

[fracster]

Sussed it, should have used the search function more thoroughly.

[exploremore]

I've seen where people have asked whether to block the EGR at the exhaust or the inlet. Why worry. I just took my entire system out. Block a few hoses. Throw the plumbing away.

The inlet side is blocked with a self made plate (contemplating measuring boost at that point - any comments).

The exhaust side is where I installed my pyrometer sensor. It's more accurate here than on the down pipe.

I know it some states this might be considered a bit radical but with the plastic cover on who can see? And if you get tested you're going to have issues regardless.

I have used it with and without the valve hooked into the ECU. Seems to make no difference although it is hooked up now.

300K+ on the ZD30.

I think the biggest advantage to blocking the EGR is the cleanliness of the engine oil. Before blocking the oil was black even immediately after an oil change. Since blocking it is a lot cleaner.

[florix]

love this thread

[BoojaBear]

Great info, sure to carry out this mod while rebuilding the engine

[Luke98patrol]

Well after 13 years of owning my 2.8 GU. I finally had the courage to block the EGR, remove the butterfly valve, and disconnected the charge air temperature sensor. The car is now performing much better

[paps01]

Here ya go mate.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/block42-1.jpg

Is it crucial that the td42 EGR is blocked on the manifold side or can it be blocked underneath where the pipe fits on? My plate fits both.

[YNOT]

Is it crucial that the td42 EGR is blocked on the manifold side or can it be blocked underneath where the pipe fits on? My plate fits both.

Either is OK.

[paps01]

Thanks mate.

[Outdbush]

Great thread

[AJTich]

Great thread, and template. Thanks
A&J

[Cbates]

Might sound stupid and hello again guys! Just wondering if it's fine to do this with the tb45e on gas?
Cheers

[BigRAWesty]

Probably no need as patrols don't emit soot like diesels do.
But again it probably won't hurt to suck 100% clean air..

[Clunk]

Might sound stupid and hello again guys! Just wondering if it's fine to do this with the tb45e on gas?
Cheers

You may want to have a read of this before making that decision http://www.swri.org/3pubs/ttoday/Summer10/PDFs/Clean-and-Cool.pdf
From what I can understand, you wouldn't really benefit in blocking the EGR (if there is one on the TB range of engines)

[Cbates]

You may want to have a read of this before making that decision http://www.swri.org/3pubs/ttoday/Summer10/PDFs/Clean-and-Cool.pdf
From what I can understand, you wouldn't really benefit in blocking the EGR (if there is one on the TB range of engines)

Thanks mate! That's what I was looking for!

[poindexter]

This has been a seriously good read, all 29 pages.
I now know roughly what I need to do to my CRD.
Got to start assembling the parts.

cheers

Ralph

[mudski]

Only takes around three or four stubbies Ralph to complete the job.

[Jamiepatrol]

Hey folks .Just got my gauges fitted and will attack the egr blank soon. I haven't pushed the car since gauges were fitted, but so far my temps are 200 on idle to about 400 round town when I gun it a little bit.
Are these roughly the average temperstures??? I have a 2 & 3/4 beautydesert system in the car so far. I understand my EGT's will rise if I blank the EGR? Correct?
Also with the dawes i'll be able to control the boost max and spool up rate ( needle valve). Could someone in a nutshell help me understand how more boost lowers the EGT's??

Jamie.

[threedogs]

Check out Chaz Yellowfoot Threads on Dawes installation, it will answer all you questions and more.
Even google it, it covers all about the imfamous ZD30 engine
@ James is your gauge in Celcius?
I get 450 degrees towing sitting on 110kph

[Jamiepatrol]

thanks threedogs. i have the autron gauge and i'm pretty sure it is celsius. i have the common rail engine. and as i said i am yet to put it under load. i will never tow so, ill have to take it up a hill somewhere and test it out. what sort of PSI boost does your sit while its towing at 110km/h ???
thanks.
jamie.

[05GUSTS]

Great read guys, very informative. PM sent for acquiring one for my patrol thanks the ferret

[05GUSTS]

Me again, thanks 2 Mudski for the plate and fast postage, installed on Christmas Eve. All easy thanks to information this thread. Cheers guys

[rookiepatroller]

Great post. My nads is nearly complete!!!

[thatswhyy]

So u guys only bloke off the 1 end not both? Is it worth doing both?

[the ferret]

Just one end, blocked is blocked!!
Cheers, the ferret.

[HiluxMichael]

Hey guys, i'm about to fit the provent 200 to my 2.8.
Regarding EGR and inlet valve block i was told that this could end with higher fuel consumption.
Can this be true...?

Cheers
Mick

[BigRAWesty]

Some people notice a higher boost level and a slight power increase.
Weather the right foot gets excited by this is up to you.

You only have to block one end of the egr pipe.. Most do the intake end..

And also to get the best from the mod a tune is recommended. But if your human keep doing little bits of the NADS then tune once complete a save a few $$$.

[HiluxMichael]

Blocked the EGR of my 2.8 yesterday - nearly no more smoke, engine runs smother, Turbo spools a little earlier...

happy as a pig in (well, you know... :wink: )

Cheers
Mick

[Beucam]

Hi,
Thinking of blocking the EGR on my 3.0 Di, Series 3.
Silly questions, but is the best spot on my 3,0lt and where can this be found.
i know there are lots of pics in this thread, but i just can not seem to figure it out. Also my EGR blanking plate came with 2 holes and not slots, does that mean i need to remove the whole pipe??

Tx,

[mudski]

Hi,
Thinking of blocking the EGR on my 3.0 Di, Series 3.
Silly questions, but is the best spot on my 3,0lt and where can this be found.
i know there are lots of pics in this thread, but i just can not seem to figure it out. Also my EGR blanking plate came with 2 holes and not slots, does that mean i need to remove the whole pipe??

Tx,
Late reply but...
Theres a silver cast pipe on the rhs of the motor that runs upwards to the inlet manifold. IT has two bolts at the top and two at the bottom. The plate goes into the top. Hint, undo the two top bolts and use a long screw driver to ever so lightly pry open the pipe by levering it. it oply needs to open enough for the gasket to drop out and the plate to go in. So only a tiny amount of force i needed. You need to remove the engine cover and its easier on the job if the IC is removed too.

[Beucam]

Mudski,

Thanks heaps.......
EGR blocked, Needle and Dawes installed. Eventually managed to get the piping correct with your PM.
Max boost i am getting now is 16PSI, and temps look great. Need to go foa long ride now and see.

Must say that my initial thoughts are WOW... very responsive and feels great.
Now need to tackle that PLASTIC in front called radiator......

Will post up a new thread on it....

[Hodge]

It's a good feeling Beucam. Feels like a different car doesn't it?

[bindi]

I'm a newbie here and think this is a great thread with great info, but after reading all the differences between 2.8, 3di, 3crd and 4.2 I am probably more confused now than I thought I was (i'm no mechanic but want to do the best by my truck).

I think I might need to PM you Ferret (hope thats ok) to get the definitive on what to do to my 2012 3L CRD, but am thinking I don't want a blanking plate with a hole in it, would be like having a new bucket with a hole in it eh??

So I am thinking a blank plate (no hole) and a scan gauge connected to my OBD2. The bit I don't get is the stuff about turbo boost levels and Dawes valves and VNT (do I need that??). Sorry if that sounds a bit dumb but I just want a simple fix without having a cab full of gauges etc. I am hoping the scan gauge can give me the readings i need.

If there's an idiots guide for us CRD owners I'd be most appreciative.

I've read the thread a couple of times and just hope I'm moving in the right direction, cheers all, Mark

[the ferret]

I'm a newbie here and think this is a great thread with great info, but after reading all the differences between 2.8, 3di, 3crd and 4.2 I am probably more confused now than I thought I was (i'm no mechanic but want to do the best by my truck).

I think I might need to PM you Ferret (hope thats ok) to get the definitive on what to do to my 2012 3L CRD, but am thinking I don't want a blanking plate with a hole in it, would be like having a new bucket with a hole in it eh??

So I am thinking a blank plate (no hole) and a scan gauge connected to my OBD2. The bit I don't get is the stuff about turbo boost levels and Dawes valves and VNT (do I need that??). Sorry if that sounds a bit dumb but I just want a simple fix without having a cab full of gauges etc. I am hoping the scan gauge can give me the readings i need.

If there's an idiots guide for us CRD owners I'd be most appreciative.

I've read the thread a couple of times and just hope I'm moving in the right direction, cheers all, Mark

PM sent mate, cheers, the ferret.

[Hodge]

I'm a newbie here and think this is a great thread with great info, but after reading all the differences between 2.8, 3di, 3crd and 4.2 I am probably more confused now than I thought I was (i'm no mechanic but want to do the best by my truck).

I think I might need to PM you Ferret (hope thats ok) to get the definitive on what to do to my 2012 3L CRD, but am thinking I don't want a blanking plate with a hole in it, would be like having a new bucket with a hole in it eh??

So I am thinking a blank plate (no hole) and a scan gauge connected to my OBD2. The bit I don't get is the stuff about turbo boost levels and Dawes valves and VNT (do I need that??). Sorry if that sounds a bit dumb but I just want a simple fix without having a cab full of gauges etc. I am hoping the scan gauge can give me the readings i need.

If there's an idiots guide for us CRD owners I'd be most appreciative.

I've read the thread a couple of times and just hope I'm moving in the right direction, cheers all, Mark

G'day Bindi. I'll tell you what I know and what I've done from my experience, as I've been in the exact position as you after I bought my CRD.
First thing I searched was, do CRD's need a EGR block. I searched this forum as well as a few other forums and lots of googling, and most answers were, yes it does. But then there were a few people saying no it doesn't as it does nothing on a CRD for various reasons. So I sat on it for ages, deciding whether I should or shouldn't blank it.

What really kicked things into motion for me, is when I seen a bunch of CRD's at wreckers opened up, and at around the point where the EGR enters the block, was all caked up, and the cylinders near by, 3&4 from memory, were a completely different shade of color due to heat from the EGR.

So I decided to just get it done and while at it, I'll get the dawes and needle valves fitted. After installing it all, I began kicking my self for NOT doing it earlier. The whole power scheme of the car changed. It had plenty more power and a nice smooth turbo spool up. The EGT's drastically dropped, because the EGR was blocked and there was now more boost flowing through system. The fuel efficiency changed too. Happy times all around!

Some issues I've had...
After blanking out the EGR, my car stalled several times for few hours after fitting the plate. But then it fixed it's self. Cannot explain why that happened, and as far as I've researched nobody else around here had such an issue.
The car now throws out an error code P0401. This is because EGR is blanked. The engine light doesn't come on, but P0401 comes up on my scangauge. I don't bother resetting it, because it only comes back minutes after I turn the car on again. And as far as I know the codes doesn't alter anything, it's just there to let you know something is up. No harm done.
My car has power mood swings. It's had this before and after fitting all that up. It's something with the turbo spool up, which I'm yet to work out. But, Mudski helped me out here heaps in fiddling with the needle valve to get it spot on. It's now been a week since we tampered with it last, and the car is still going good. Fingers crossed.

My personal advice is get that thing blocked asap. At minimum get in touch with mudski and get the boost control bits sorted out, the patrol will thank you for it. He is the man to talk to. The only other thing I should mention, is, your patrol is 2012, so I'll assume it still has warranty. If and ever you need warranty stuff done, I'm not sure how nissan will react if they see the bits you've tampered with it, especially the EGR block as it is after all, illegal.

My 2c !

[bindi]

Thanks Hodge, appreciate that, I'll be in touch with Mudski.

So I am definitely going to get a blank plate, and wonder if it will be safe to wait until the patrol is out of warranty before I fit the dawes valve?? Or am I going to still get turbo boost issues bad enough to negatively affect the running of the car (I will be towing a caravan).



Cheers!!!!

[mudski]

If you need to take the car in for warranty repairs just take the plate out...

[Hodge]

Thanks Hodge, appreciate that, I'll be in touch with Mudski.

So I am definitely going to get a blank plate, and wonder if it will be safe to wait until the patrol is out of warranty before I fit the dawes valve?? Or am I going to still get turbo boost issues bad enough to negatively affect the running of the car (I will be towing a caravan).



Cheers!!!!

The other thing I forgot to mention, is the dawes & needle boost control, and EGR block go hand in hand. Once you drop the plate in, your boost spool up goes up a bit, so you will want the boost control to compensate for that and adjust it accordingly. And the OTHER thing to mention is, you will need a EGT and boost gauge installed to read whats happening under the hood, as without it installing any of the above mentioned stuff will be next to impossible.

[bindi]

thanks, and just looking at the scan gauge 2 and the spec states that when connected to the obd2 port that it provides a monitor of turbo boost levels. It would be great if could also monitor EGR temps too. Does anyone know if it does this, as I'd really prefer to avoid having extra gauges fitted to the A pillar?

My objective here is to have a well monitored car, but also one which I can take in for any service/warranty work without having to remove loads of stuff. Much easier to just remove the scan gauge and blank plate/dawes etc.

Does anyone use the scan gauge for boost level monitoring and EGR temps?


EDIT: JUST FOUND THIS ON THE SCAN GAUGE WEB:

There is currently no ATF Temperature X-Gauge for any Nissan vehicle in Australia. Linear Logic is currently experimenting with different codes. Also EGT and Engine oil Temperature gauges are NOT available.

SO I have my answer I think, pity it won't do EGT, and oil temp would be real handy!

Cheers
Mark

[bindi]

After more searching of forums and googling I am still a bit bamboozled.

I think for starters I'll fit a scangauge2 and see what is happening with turbo boost etc before any mods. Then I'll do an EGR block, but hang off with the dawes valve and additional gauges until I see whats happening. I would have thought that the EGR temp would go down with the EGR block, but please correct me if I have this wrong.

And again my apologies for being a bit of a wally in the engine knowledge dept!

[mudski]

Hey Bindi. the Scangauge wont show EGT's because there is no factory fitted pyrometer on the Patrols, same as for the oil temp gauge. Technically your EGT's should be lower when blocking the EGR as your now not getting hot exhaust gas pumped into the cylinders, which would prior to the EGR block create slightly hotter exhaust gases.
Adding a Dawes and needle valve to the CRD's is not as important as it is with the Di's as the Di's ECU had a real hard hard time trying to properly control boost levels and spool up rate. But using these two valves in a CRD many have found they are able to control the max boost and spool up rate much better than what the factory ECU can. Therefor making the car run even better that stock. Just because the car is new'ish doesn't mean its right. Just to what is right from factory and to Australian design. Same applies with any car, petrol or diesel. Hence why there is so many aftermarket add on's for any new car you see on the market. Simply to make them better from what you get out of the crate.

[bindi]

thanks, I have my scan gauge fitted now and without EGR or other mods I have been monitoring my boost levels over the last week or so. Most of the time it ranges between 4 and 15psi with the highest being 17.5psi. My next step will be to install the full (no hole) EGR blanking plate and see how this affects the boost pressures. Given that even slightly higher (say upto 20psi) will only be for very short times I struggle to see how this can be too bad for the engine??

Anyway I'll see how it goes, and if the boost pressures do get too high I can either install a dawes valve or just remove the EGR plate. My biggest dilemma is that I still have 18 months of factory warranty left.

Mark

[GRY60]

hi
i am from switzerland and i want to ask if the EGR-modification afects the emissions dramaticly and if there will be some smoke or anithing else because the police here is not happy with smoking cars
thanks for your replys

[Scorpiovee]

GRY60, smoke should be reduced very significantly, NOX may increase. Only noticeable if it's tested.

[DOG]

Thanks TIMBO sounds a great mod to start with , my zd30 drinks fuel and I have had it checked and no results yet , I now have a project to do myself thanks a lot .

[DOG]

TIMOO just be fore I put this plate in (egr block) do I have to do any other mods ?? The motor is a 2010 mod zd30 crd I don't know what else has been done except a after market welded inter cooler , extra fuel filter , and a new air flow senser , thanks .

[mudski]

TIMOO just be fore I put this plate in (egr block) do I have to do any other mods ?? The motor is a 2010 mod zd30 crd I don't know what else has been done except a after market welded inter cooler , extra fuel filter , and a new air flow senser , thanks .

If you have a boost gauge I wouldn't block the egr as your boost will be all over the shop and you be constantly looking at your gauge. Worse than pre egr. If you don't have a gauge then you won't see the gauge bouncing up and down and you won't need to worry. Lol.
If you want to give your turbo a smooth linear boost curve, you need to install a Dawes and needle valve. Not a must mod but definitely well worth it.

[SG1]

So been doing a few mods today, put a welded intercooler on as original was oily and stained and while I was at it fitted a Provent 200, also mounted a pillar pod but have not put gauges in yet which brings me to my questions..

Where to start next as I'm still waiting for the quick fit boost adapter to turn up in the mail which should of been here last week, so have boost gauge and egt gauge ready, have blanking plate, have a 3' redback exhaust which turned up today have dawes valve and needle valve, all these are ready to install But in what order should I tackle this?

I was thinking of winging it and doing the blanking plate and exhaust?

[mudski]

Has your pipe got the bung in it for the egt gauge? I'd be doing the pipe first. Then gauges, then the dawes, needle and egr.

[SG1]

The original factory Nissan exhaust is on it atm, noticed some cracking on it just below the dump pipe so was wanting a new exhaust and that pushed the finance minister into letting me, the redback system has the egt and O2 bungs, so was thinking while at it I would hook up the egt gauge, will have a search on which wire to tap into for dash lights for the gauges ect.

But back to egr backing plate, should I be looking at cleaning the manifold ect before putting the egr plate in? And how much of a job is it to remove manifold ect? Will have a search for that as well tho have already but didn find a step by step on it for the GU 02 ZD30 Di. Engine was a new nissan crate engine and currently has 68 tho on it since being replaced, so wondering if there is any need to clean manifold, tho noticed a fair bit of oil on old intercooler and around turbo from the piping hence the provent to hopefully stop that.

[DOG]

If you have a boost gauge I wouldn't block the egr as your boost will be all over the shop and you be constantly looking at your gauge. Worse than pre egr. If you don't have a gauge then you won't see the gauge bouncing up and down and you won't need to worry. Lol.
If you want to give your turbo a smooth linear boost curve, you need to install a Dawes and needle valve. Not a must mod but definitely well worth it.

Thanks a lot modski I am new to all this and any info is great , there is that much info to try and work out ? the patrol I have is 2007 common rail
with a 2010 motor with 29000 kms , goes well but sucks fuel (25.4 lt / 158 klm ) just cruising on free way (very gently 90 km/hr) Thanks for your time

[mudski]

Thanks a lot modski I am new to all this and any info is great , there is that much info to try and work out ? the patrol I have is 2007 common rail
with a 2010 motor with 29000 kms , goes well but sucks fuel (25.4 lt / 158 klm ) just cruising on free way (very gently 90 km/hr) Thanks for your time

Wow! Somethings not right there. Mines around 13-15litres and thats flogging it.

[TPC]

Thanks a lot modski I am new to all this and any info is great , there is that much info to try and work out ? the patrol I have is 2007 common rail
with a 2010 motor with 29000 kms , goes well but sucks fuel (25.4 lt / 158 klm ) just cruising on free way (very gently 90 km/hr) Thanks for your time


Wow! Somethings not right there. Mines around 13-15litres and thats flogging it.

Those figures work out to around 16l/100km, should be a bit better than that.
When not towing and no roofrack on I get around 12l/100km, do you have a roofrack?

[mudski]

The original factory Nissan exhaust is on it atm, noticed some cracking on it just below the dump pipe so was wanting a new exhaust and that pushed the finance minister into letting me, the redback system has the egt and O2 bungs, so was thinking while at it I would hook up the egt gauge, will have a search on which wire to tap into for dash lights for the gauges ect.

But back to egr backing plate, should I be looking at cleaning the manifold ect before putting the egr plate in? And how much of a job is it to remove manifold ect? Will have a search for that as well tho have already but didn find a step by step on it for the GU 02 ZD30 Di. Engine was a new nissan crate engine and currently has 68 tho on it since being replaced, so wondering if there is any need to clean manifold, tho noticed a fair bit of oil on old intercooler and around turbo from the piping hence the provent to hopefully stop that.

You can clean the manifold if your up to the job. I didn't bother with mine, but I should have been bothered... I would allow at least a day to do it. A couple of guys here have done it and it was around two hours to remove, an hour or so to clean and then another two hours to refit. Big Fletch I know done his. See in the member ride section, I am sure he posted up there about it.
As for step by step, you don't really need one. Just remove anything that will be in your way of removing the manifold really. I would be buying new gaskets for the intake manifold and throttle body plus a few new studs and nuts, just to have on hand if needed if it were me. Last thing you want is to bust a stud on the weekend.

[DOG]

No no roof rack and not towing yet , can I afford the fuel if I hook some thing behind ??? at the moment In dont know if I should keep it ?

[fitzyfootlong]

AWESOME READ FELLAS, THANKS FOR THE INFO. FINISHING OFF THE nads THIS WEEKEND!

[jbonez]

Just did this mod to my 06 td42ti.

First I blocked the egr intake pipe with the plate and went for a drive.. a fair improvement turbo was spooling quicker but in third gear between 2300 and 2600 it felt like a lack of pulling power.. Went home and removed the butterfly valve and went for another drive. What a different animal it is now it feels alot smoother in third gear between 2000 & 3000rpm where I spend alot of time driving, less rattly through the pedal. Pulls alot smoother through higher rpms first second and third. Would definitely recommend it. (stock besides this mod even standard exhaust still)

thanks

[Ricky]

Ive heard once blocking the EGR you need to get the ECU remapped. This true?

[mudski]

Ive heard once blocking the EGR you need to get the ECU remapped. This true?

Not true...

[megatexture]

Not true...

He's on a manual hunt

[snakessou]

still a thread that I link to friends who have got themselves a patrol. great option but sadly have not done it myself.
on a similar subject, what function do the egrc-valves a and b and the throttle control have and how do we as home mechanics use those to our advantage?
three dial looking jibbers above the turbo area.53788

[mudski]

Just block the egr on the engine mate and don't worry about the other two thingo's.

[snakessou]

sounds like a flawless plan but still interested in what they do.

[mudski]

sounds like a flawless plan but still interested in what they do.

Wouldn't have clue bud. Not real familiar with the crd's.

[the evil twin]

Wouldn't have clue bud. Not real familiar with the crd's.

They are part of the Di's , you won't find them on the CRD's.

The CRD's have a completely different EGR system to the Di

Di's use 3 electrically operated vacuum ported solenoids (as shown in his piccy) to control the EGR and Throttle valve for 1 of 4 settings

As well as having water cooled EGR the CRD's use an electrically driven motor wired to the ECM to position the EGR valve which is fully variable.
The EGR on the CRD's is much more responsive and significantly less likely to produce boost spikes.

Bottom line tho, is you are still 'breathing your own farts' as was so aptly put the other day so, yeah, just block the sucker

[growler2058]

They are part of the Di's , you won't find them on the CRD's. The CRD's have a completely different EGR system to the Di Di's use 3 electrically operated vacuum ported solenoids (as shown in his piccy) to control the EGR and Throttle valve for 1 of 4 settings As well as having water cooled EGR the CRD's use an electrically driven motor wired to the ECM to position the EGR valve which is fully variable. The EGR on the CRD's is much more responsive and significantly less likely to produce boost spikes. Bottom line tho, is you are still 'breathing your own farts' as was so aptly put the other day so, yeah, just block the sucker

Does the CRD EGR blanking plate need a hole in it? I thought I'd read somewhere it did

[the evil twin]

Does the CRD EGR blanking plate need a hole in it? I thought I'd read somewhere it did

A small hole will stop the ECU throwing occasional P0401 fault codes (EGR Volume error).

I didn't drill mine tho.
Every CRD owner should have a scanner, crazy if you don't IMHO, so all you do is reset the fault on the rare occasions you happen to get them.

[mudski]

They are part of the Di's , you won't find them on the CRD's.

The CRD's have a completely different EGR system to the Di

Di's use 3 electrically operated vacuum ported solenoids (as shown in his piccy) to control the EGR and Throttle valve for 1 of 4 settings

As well as having water cooled EGR the CRD's use an electrically driven motor wired to the ECM to position the EGR valve which is fully variable.
The EGR on the CRD's is much more responsive and significantly less likely to produce boost spikes.

Bottom line tho, is you are still 'breathing your own farts' as was so aptly put the other day so, yeah, just block the sucker

The pic posted is from a crd though....

[the evil twin]

The pic posted is from a crd though....

Well, thats damn odd, disregard my prev... Confused am I (in my best Yoda voice)

[mudski]

Well, thats damn odd, disregard my prev... Confused am I (in my best Yoda voice)

Haha, with the hMm! In the Yoda voice too.

[the evil twin]

Haha, with the hMm! In the Yoda voice too.

Maybe there are differences between Euro and Oz ?

Meah, who cares, bottom line is block the suckers anyway

[mudski]

Maybe there are differences between Euro and Oz ?

Meah, who cares, bottom line is block the suckers anyway

You got that right. Block that shizz.

[mullet_hunter]

Helpful read..

[funkyranga]

G'day Bindi. I'll tell you what I know and what I've done from my experience, as I've been in the exact position as you after I bought my CRD.
First thing I searched was, do CRD's need a EGR block. I searched this forum as well as a few other forums and lots of googling, and most answers were, yes it does. But then there were a few people saying no it doesn't as it does nothing on a CRD for various reasons. So I sat on it for ages, deciding whether I should or shouldn't blank it.

What really kicked things into motion for me, is when I seen a bunch of CRD's at wreckers opened up, and at around the point where the EGR enters the block, was all caked up, and the cylinders near by, 3&4 from memory, were a completely different shade of color due to heat from the EGR.

So I decided to just get it done and while at it, I'll get the dawes and needle valves fitted. After installing it all, I began kicking my self for NOT doing it earlier. The whole power scheme of the car changed. It had plenty more power and a nice smooth turbo spool up. The EGT's drastically dropped, because the EGR was blocked and there was now more boost flowing through system. The fuel efficiency changed too. Happy times all around!

Some issues I've had...
After blanking out the EGR, my car stalled several times for few hours after fitting the plate. But then it fixed it's self. Cannot explain why that happened, and as far as I've researched nobody else around here had such an issue.
The car now throws out an error code P0401. This is because EGR is blanked. The engine light doesn't come on, but P0401 comes up on my scangauge. I don't bother resetting it, because it only comes back minutes after I turn the car on again. And as far as I know the codes doesn't alter anything, it's just there to let you know something is up. No harm done.
My car has power mood swings. It's had this before and after fitting all that up. It's something with the turbo spool up, which I'm yet to work out. But, Mudski helped me out here heaps in fiddling with the needle valve to get it spot on. It's now been a week since we tampered with it last, and the car is still going good. Fingers crossed.

My personal advice is get that thing blocked asap. At minimum get in touch with mudski and get the boost control bits sorted out, the patrol will thank you for it. He is the man to talk to. The only other thing I should mention, is, your patrol is 2012, so I'll assume it still has warranty. If and ever you need warranty stuff done, I'm not sure how nissan will react if they see the bits you've tampered with it, especially the EGR block as it is after all, illegal.

My 2c !

Guys,

I have read this thread from start to finish.
loads of information.
here are my thoughts/ questions.
I have a 2012 CRD
I will fit an EGR blocking plate
Hole or no hole?
I have a scangauge 2
I see the plates available on line have about a 10mm hole, this seems quite large, I know its there to satisfy the ECU.
but wont it still allow a fair amount of crap through?
partially blocked, Hmmm.... interesting concept. will fill up with gunk over a longer period of time......
has anyone tried a smaller hole?
it appears from information in this thread that if you don't have a hole it just throws a code P0401 (no big deal I read)
I may do the experiment myself, no hole, 3mm hole, 5mm hole etc.

any feedback or thought would be appreciated.

[mudski]

Guys,

I have read this thread from start to finish.
loads of information.
here are my thoughts/ questions.
I have a 2012 CRD
I will fit an EGR blocking plate
Hole or no hole?
I have a scangauge 2
I see the plates available on line have about a 10mm hole, this seems quite large, I know its there to satisfy the ECU.
but wont it still allow a fair amount of crap through?
partially blocked, Hmmm.... interesting concept. will fill up with gunk over a longer period of time......
has anyone tried a smaller hole?
it appears from information in this thread that if you don't have a hole it just throws a code P0401 (no big deal I read)
I may do the experiment myself, no hole, 3mm hole, 5mm hole etc.

any feedback or thought would be appreciated.

I am going to install a

here are my t
IMO. If your going to use a plate with the hole, don't bother. Your still letting through the nasties, it just takes longer...
Hodges CRD is fully blocked, he only get the error on his scan gauge and don't even bother with it.

Cheers.
Mark.

Edit : why is your name familiar?

[the evil twin]

X2 ^^^^^ (cept for the name bit, I'm sure we've never met)

[Hodge]

As Mudski said. Mine is a full blank. I get the p0401 code most of the time. But I don't notice it because it hardly ever triggers an engine light. Engine light comes on maybe once a month for some reason and when I reset the code, it goes away.
Even if the code is throw it won't directly impact any performance.

[funkyranga]

IMO. If your going to use a plate with the hole, don't bother. Your still letting through the nasties, it just takes longer...
Hodges CRD is fully blocked, he only get the error on his scan gauge and don't even bother with it.

Cheers.
Mark.

Edit : why is your name familiar?

Mark,

because I sent you a PM a while back about Dawes, I still cant decide if its worth it on the CRD.
is there value in adding a Dawes on this model?
after trawling through the forums I see that some tend to believe that the late model CRD boost limits on its own quite well.
not sure I fully understand the finer points of the dawes yet, the jury is still out.
I like to fully understand something before I commit,

Cheers.
Liam

[Ronin]

I have a 2012 as well and would like to know if going the way of Dawes and needle valve is useful or not.

[mudski]

The CRD's don't "need" the dawes and needle valve. This is fact. But adding these valves impact greatly on better engine performance. This is fact also. I've fitted quite a few to the CRD's to see the difference myself. The CRD's do handle the boost a hell of a lot better than the Di's do, but like anything, theres always room for improvement. What I don't agree on is the comment I keep seeing via messages to me here and my store that the needle valve is a waste on the CRD. Pure bollocks. Lol. Why only take away half of the ECU's control over boost? Take the whole bloody lot I say. Then you have the final say in how the car runs.

If your going to spend the coin on your ride with bigger pipes, chips etc. Why wouldn't you instal these valves? Your only going to make the car go better.

[Hodge]

I'm with mudski here. My car became a hell of a lot better with dawes and needle. And IMO the CRD factory boost control is still piss poor. It just yoyos all over the place.
When I went to pickup parts from mudski and when he helped me fit my setup. I was very hesitant about it. I wasnt sure whether I will benefit from it. But after it was fitted and tuned, it was a completely different beast afterwards. Boost was more smoother and linear and it dropped EGT's heaps...

[funkyranga]

Thanks Mudski,

That's putting it pretty simple, I will invest in the near future.
got a few other things to sort out, but as you say, its a pretty small outlay for an added benefit.

[funkyranga]

I'm with mudski here. My car became a hell of a lot better with dawes and needle. And IMO the CRD factory boost control is still piss poor. It just yoyos all over the place.
When I went to pickup parts from mudski and when he helped me fit my setup. I was very hesitant about it. I wasnt sure whether I will benefit from it. But after it was fitted and tuned, it was a completely different beast afterwards. Boost was more smoother and linear and it dropped EGT's heaps...

Hodge,

you've sold me.
I would agree that the boost is all over the place like a mad woman's sh*t.
so if this setup is going to smooth it out, i'm all over it.
I had some strange issues with mine and have just sorted it out, that's another long story for another time.
I appreciate the feed back guys, it's been educational and interesting.
Cheers

[carsurgeons]

egr valves are so bad for the engine internals they just clog everything up.

[skiman]

Thanks for this thread gents - this is one of the first things on my to-do list. Heading off to browse Mudski's shop! :tongue:

[LKDTD6]

I there a kit that removes the EGR system entirely as opposed to just disables it? Is the like a replacement part to remove the EGR butterfly system?

[mudski]

I there a kit that removes the EGR system entirely as opposed to just disables it? Is the like a replacement part to remove the EGR butterfly system?
You remove the egr entirely and you run a risk of inspector plod spotting it missing and slapping you with a big fine. For the price of an egr plate and a few beers. Its easier just to block it.

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[nissannewby]

I there a kit that removes the EGR system entirely as opposed to just disables it? Is the like a replacement part to remove the EGR butterfly system?

If its a 4.2 there is a kit available to delete this.

[LKDTD6]

Does someone on here sell this removal kit? Or know a link to somewhere that does? I want to remove it entirely as I will be "offroad racing" the vehicle only wink wink... I think my car will be quite standard and won't attract attention of the fun plod crew.... I plan to keep this one and its modifications law abiding... With the one exception here of the emissions ;) it makes it neater and easier to access filters etc. etc..

[mudski]

Why do you want to completely remove the egr?

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[nissannewby]

Northside 4x4 in brisbane do a kit.

I will also add that thos is only for the 4.2 egr system

[LKDTD6]

I would like to remove it for freeing up the engine bay, easier access to oil filters mostly.... Is it such a big job or bad idea?...

[mudski]

Bad idea IMO. Illegal for a start, and big fines from the EPA if caught.

[milsomr]

are you sure thats a zd30 engine? im thinking of doing the same to mine but i tought it was on the other side? reason for asking is my acutators for the turbo are on the back

[mudski]

are you sure thats a zd30 engine? im thinking of doing the same to mine but i tought it was on the other side? reason for asking is my acutators for the turbo are on the back
He's got a Td42ti mate....

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[moonie]

I have removed the EGR an all the crap that goes with it even removed the stock intercooler the new intercooler comes with the whole kit to remove egr the 4.2 runs cooler on the egt gauge runs smoother and turbo spools up faster best thing you can do to a 4.2 should work on a 3lt best thing i ever done//

[threedogs]

I have removed the EGR an all the crap that goes with it even removed the stock intercooler the new intercooler comes with the whole kit to remove egr the 4.2 runs cooler on the egt gauge runs smoother and turbo spools up faster best thing you can do to a 4.2 should work on a 3lt best thing i ever done//

Its a common mod and most will do it.

[SiberianPatrol]

Is it recommended to install a pyro and EGT gauge before blocking the EGR to have a baseline to compare to after the mod? Also is it mandatory to have those gauges after blocking it?


1999 GU Y61 2.8L turbo diesel; manual transmission; 33" Khumo mudders; ... more mods on the way ;)

[mullet_hunter]

I have a 2012 as well and would like to know if going the way of Dawes and needle valve is useful or not.
Crds control boost alot bettr than the di's but id be throwing in a inline catch can streight upp... like mark said cnt go wrng wiv dawes n needle valve.. most people go wiv provent 200 catchcan setup.. i personally run a hpd one n it works a treat...

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[Patrol 1993]

Hey would this work for a petrol engine as well.

Neil.

[togenshi]

Ok, so I flooded my Patrol "competition" ZD30DDti and had the car sitting for a while. Due to that my EGR unit internals rusted up. So instead of spending $700 or something stupid for another unit, I was looking to remove the entire EGR assembly completely.

The answer is "you can't". This is due to math done in the ECU whereby it compares MAP (found on the intercooler) and the MAF (air box). Unfortunately, these 2 sensors is the pulse for the engine so we cannot manipulate them without upsetting the engine. This is exasperated by the fly-by-wire throttle body whereby it would close under de-acceleration to suck in the exhaust gases (suspicion at this moment but most likely what I would do as engineer).

Luckily I managed to clean up my valve unit but I took out the the rest of it cause I aren't going back.

So what I am going to look into doing is see if the car will play ball by making a plate with a tube before the valve unit going to some clean air. Introducing a 3rd element is the only way to trick the CPU. Clean air > Exhaust gases. If clean air goes into the cylinder when its expecting dirty air... I think it should be alright.

I don't see an issue at this moment. I might have to experiment with how much pressure to apply to the intake. I do have a scan gauge 2 on hand. Just need to make plates for the exhaust manifold and EGR valve.

Also, for those that added a EGR block, leave the battery off overnight. Then in the morning start the car. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE OR MOVE THE CAR till the temperature gauge is where it should be when warmed up. This is to allow the ECU to learn about your engine. It should be fine after that.

[Hodge]

Hey TOgenshi.
I have seen a similar concept on a YD25 C RD Navara. What the guy basically done is, put some sort of a Y pipe on the clean air intake. One goes to the normal intake as per usual, and the other one was piped into the EGR system. This kept the original flow of things but instead of the dirty gases, clean air was flowing through the EGR pipes, keeping the system happy, while keeping the engine cleaner.

[mudski]

Hey TOgenshi.
I have seen a similar concept on a YD25 C RD Navara. What the guy basically done is, put some sort of a Y pipe on the clean air intake. One goes to the normal intake as per usual, and the other one was piped into the EGR system. This kept the original flow of things but instead of the dirty gases, clean air was flowing through the EGR pipes, keeping the system happy, while keeping the engine cleaner.

After all that a 10buck egr plate would do a better job and is much quicker to fit... Lol.

[togenshi]

I already took the entire EGR assembly out. You should see how much more room I have to access everything. It aren't going back. I can replace the fuel filter without killing my fingers. Also I get access to most of the hoses which is a plus for when doing bush mechanics.

I got the exhaust side EGR blocked. Getting a few components for the water cooling today. A T-junction, joiner and/or spare hose is required to complete the water cooling circuit. Also will be making the EGR plate with the hole in it. I'll use some hoses to a small breather filter initially.

[threedogs]

Instead of using TEE's have you looked at using "Y's"
far less cavitation IMO

[togenshi]

Its for one of the smaller water hoses that goes into the throttle body I think?

[togenshi]

Step one. Got water hose bypass installed. Used a Ford Falcon heater hose and a T-junction to complete the cycle. EGR value is not getting water cooled any more. No need to.

Reinstalled my EGR valve and without a cover, switched on my car. Got P0400 error. Had to leave my battery off over night. Started the car and waiting till it heated up. No P0400/P0401 error so far. Will be making plate for it and a hose to after the air filter this weekend.

[foggs]

.....Also, for those that added a EGR block, leave the battery off overnight. Then in the morning start the car. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE OR MOVE THE CAR till the temperature gauge is where it should be when warmed up. This is to allow the ECU to learn about your engine. It should be fine after that.

I wasn't aware of this piece of info, I've had it blocked now for over a month.. is it still worth doing this?

[togenshi]

If it works, don't touch it I guess.

As for me, got plate installed with air hose attachment fitted in however decided to do belt tensioner while I am at it and while getting the shroud off, I damaged my radiator...

*sigh*

edit: any changes to the whole combustion process, I would recommend having the CPU relearn so it can work with updated variables. Such as an increase in air flow or another intercooler.

[Rossko07]

Also, for those that added a EGR block, leave the battery off overnight. Then in the morning start the car. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE OR MOVE THE CAR till the temperature gauge is where it should be when warmed up. This is to allow the ECU to learn about your engine. It should be fine after that.

What exactly will the ecu relearn?

Will this method prevent the car throwing EGR flow codes?

[togenshi]

EGR flow I think is measured between MAP and MAF sensors. Due to the turbo, the MAP should always be higher than MAF sensor. If EGR valve is open, this should boost the MAP reading higher than the MAF. This is due to the turbo able to spool more since the exhaust is recycled. That is the only way that the EGR flow codes can be triggered with the sensors available on the ZD30DDti CRD. MAP is the sensor on the intercooler.

The ECU relearn may reduce the ECU's sensitivity between MAP and MAF. Not saying it will stop it but if it was expect a lot of EGR flow before and now there isn't, the ECU will throw an error. If ECU isn't expecting much of a difference, it will be harder to throw the error.

The reason its variable is due to all the circumstances the car can do through. If you live higher than sea level, oxygen levels are going to be different and the expect variables will change. If it gets ridiculously cold, the oxygen is more dense and fuel mixture will need to be adjusted. Change exhaust? New intercooler? Different turbo?

These variables are held in the ECU as long as there is power. This is remembered for when you next switch on the engine so it can run at optimal settings.

Edit: I wouldn't know exactly. But if I was told by my boss that we had a checkbox to tick - "Identify when EGR is tampered as cheaply as possible" - I would do the above. IT person by trade. I just get into the heads of engineers on what they would do.

[stewc1986]

I've been skimming through a few posts and cant seem to find much info in TD42 egr's.
Apparently they are only from 2002 onwards?
Can anyone clear this up for me.

Cheers

[mudski]

I've been skimming through a few posts and cant seem to find much info in TD42 egr's.
Apparently they are only from 2002 onwards?
Can anyone clear this up for me.

Cheers
2004 mate. When the Td42ti (turbo intercooled model) was released.

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[stewc1986]

Cool thanks.
That's one less mod to do :)

[growler2058]

Here ya go mate.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/egrblockzd302-1.png

Anyone got a pic of where the F@@@ i block the egr on a crd?? I cant find anything that looks like the pic above

[Hodge]

Anyone got a pic of where the F@@@ i block the egr on a crd?? I cant find anything that looks like the pic above

Here you go mate.
Circled in red. 2 x 12mm socketed bolts from memory... I took off my IC to get to it easier.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63489&stc=1

[Hodge]

Another photo....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63490&stc=1

[Hodge]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63491&stc=1

[growler2058]

Champion mate. Does it matter which side of the gasket the plate goes on? Engine side or pipe side?

[growler2058]

I've found a clear pic for future reference
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/205.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs

[growler2058]

Righto ill be back when i fark it up

[Hodge]

Champion mate. Does it matter which side of the gasket the plate goes on? Engine side or pipe side?

I don't think it maters. From memory i left my gasket out... Been a few years now since then.

[growler2058]

I don't think it maters. From memory i left my gasket out... Been a few years now since then.

Ive got some sensor safe silicone so i might use a tiny smear of that.

Wouldnt ya know it the only ring spanner thats gone walk a bout is me bloody 12mm!! Quick trip to sprints when it opens

[TPC]

I put the gasket on the engine side but as Hodge said I don't think it would matter.
I would think you would need a socket rather than a ring spanner.

[Hodge]

Yeah socket with extension from memory. You will not have enough room for a spanner, otherwise you'll be there forever doing 1/100th of a turn at a time.

[growler2058]

RightO my sprints wasn't open fork them, need a 12mm ringy to replace the lost one. So intercooler off and the bracket holding the fuel hoses to the egr thing
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/207.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/208.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/209.jpg
But this MOFO snapped getting it out ?!$@
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/210.jpg
Anyway EGR blanking plate in (cheers TD) and it still runs YAY


Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs

[Hodge]

Well done. Your engine is thanking you as we speak. It can finally breathe some fresh smog-less air.

[growler2058]

Thought id effed up big time. Took her for a drive pop bdrdrdrdrdrddddrrrrrr. Didnt tighten one of the intercooler pipes up enough and popped it off

[togenshi]

Sorry for the lack of updates. Lots has happened and didn't get a chance to work on my EGR idea to get clean air in instead and avoid the errors altogether.

Been running the car with EGR blocked. Basically TL;DR is that blocking is the only decent solution. There isn't a solution around this.

This is due to the fact that a lot of air is pushed out of the EGR valve. I removed the EGR system completely and made a T-junction to route the cooling now that the EGR cooling tube thing is taken out. So my initial plan to just loop the EGR valve into the air filter system before the intercooler wouldn't work.

Usually the air pushed out of the EGR is met with pressures from the exhaust system and cancel itself out. But one thing that I noticed is the EGR is open quite often to the point of stupidity. When put putting around the block, you could hear the EGR valve open often and every time it did, a km would've been taken away from the engine. Even if you made a chamber that can expand and contract, it would be too complex and too many parts that could go wrong.

Get a OBD-II diagnostics unit like scanguage and keep it handy. Also if you are up for it, take the EGR system out completely. Soo much more room to work on the intake side of the car. I can change the fuel filter without killing myself.

Also my engine is noticeably better. It feels more alive and no more black smog.

Edit: Added photos.

http://imgur.com/FXd9eQO
http://imgur.com/KK0L986
http://imgur.com/LZyJe3q

I will replacing the hose that is connected to the EGR plate with a cap soon.

[growler2058]

I haven't done my fuel filter yet. Was looking at it yesterday and it looked like a bastard to do!


Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs

[growler2058]

I dunno if its my imagination, but she felt more responsive today after blocking the egr? Probably my imagination

[my third 256]

[QUOTE=growler2058;650607]I haven't done my fuel filter yet. Was looking at it yesterday and it looked like a bastard to do!

undo pipes and remove filter with bracket attached that is what i did and was quite easy
put filter back in a quater turn so you can get to the sensor easyer

[BigRAWesty]

I dunno if its my imagination, but she felt more responsive today after blocking the egr? Probably my imagination
Your not the first to say it bloke.
A mate at work with a d40 navara said the same thing when he blocked his..

[Hodge]

Your not the first to say it bloke.
A mate at work with a d40 navara said the same thing when he blocked his..

I didn't feel much on my 3L CRD when I had it. The biggest improvement was on my 2.5L CRD D22 Navara. When I plugged the EGR, it's as if the thing grew another turbo... I couldn't believe it !

[threedogs]

By blocking the EGR doesn't it divert the extra exhaust gas
to the turbo, thus a bit more get up and go???

[growler2058]

By blocking the EGR doesn't it divert the extra exhaust gas
to the turbo, thus a bit more get up and go???

Thats what it feels like. As if its spooling a bit quicker

[BigRAWesty]

By blocking the EGR doesn't it divert the extra exhaust gas
to the turbo, thus a bit more get up and go???

Well that makes sense. .
could also be that you have 100% clean cold air from the intercooler and not a mix of dirty hot air coming in..

How are people going in the crd's with a full block throwing the ecu into limp mode?
I wanna get this egr block asap but a scan gauge or what ever won't be for a little while yet..

[the evil twin]

Well that makes sense. .
could also be that you have 100% clean cold air from the intercooler and not a mix of dirty hot air coming in..

How are people going in the crd's with a full block throwing the ecu into limp mode?
I wanna get this egr block asap but a scan gauge or what ever won't be for a little while yet..

There's no rush mate.
Remember the EGR is blocked at higher throttle settings anyway.
It only opens at idle/low settings to reduce NOX emmissions.

I would put a scan gauge or similar as one of your higher priorities.
It will tell you Boost, actual coolant temp, actual fuel flow, Alternator volts pus a few other handy things and read any fault codes.

Boost and temp are important if you want to start tinkering and actual fuel flow is bloody handy.
The only other gauge you need is an EGT

If you start dicking around with anything that you can't measure you are pretty much in the dark about what is really happening and I guarantee you the 'placebo' effect will kick in.

[BigRAWesty]

That's what I don't want to happen.
Any idea at what sorta rpm the egr shuts off?? Being a manual were changing around 3-3500rpm

[the evil twin]

That's what I don't want to happen.
Any idea at what sorta rpm the egr shuts off?? Being a manual were changing around 3-3500rpm

EGR is controlled more by Throttle than RPM.

I used to drive my 07 CRD thru the gears relatively hard IE give it a bit of welly and changing at 3500 to 3750 give or take.
I find most CRDs like to get up to cruise or speed limit fast then back off and just tonk along.
It easily got the best fuel economy doing this around town rather than driving Miss Daisy which returned crap figures
IMHO if you have a high power demand that probably holds the EGR closed or close to it thru the gears as you accelerate.

[BigRAWesty]

EGR is controlled by TPS not RPM.

I used to drive my 07 CRD thru the gears relatively hard IE give it a bit of welly and changing at 3500 to 3750 give or take.
I find most CRDs like to get up to cruise or speed limit fast then back off and just tonk along.
It easily got the best fuel economy doing this around town rather than driving Miss Daisy which returned crap figures
IMHO if you have a high TPS that probably holds the EGR shut thru the gears as you accelerate.
Well there ya go.
So flat to the floor is better [emoji3]

[the evil twin]

Well there ya go.
So flat to the floor is better [emoji3]

For me yeah... I edited my original post as I shouldn't have used the term TPS
There are several parameters involved

[togenshi]

EGR is controlled more by Throttle than RPM.

Pretty much. It is open quite often than not. If you are driving sensibly, it would be open for majority of the time.

[Wine_maker]

One more useful drawing of EGR block plate for rd28t

65481

[Tico_Y61]

Very useful thread... Thanks a lot guys.

[togenshi]

Anyone else took the swirl valves out when they blocked the EGR and cleaned their intake manifold? FYI Swirl valves are there to manage the mix of EGR and intake gases. I want to know if its more responsive and feels like there is more torque than stock. I think I might have lost some torque at the 1,000-1,500 rpm mark though.

[mudski]

Anyone else took the swirl valves out when they blocked the EGR and cleaned their intake manifold? FYI Swirl valves are there to manage the mix of EGR and intake gases. I want to know if its more responsive and feels like there is more torque than stock. I think I might have lost some torque at the 1,000-1,500 rpm mark though.

On a ZD30? Don't bother. One of them is to assist in engine shut down, the larger one from memory, the other is the swirl valve control. Both vacuum controlled, so if you want to play around with the swirl, just remove and plug the vac line that goes to it. From memory the swirl stay open fully when disconnected.

[10G]

I read the first 10 pages of this thread then ran out of time.

Is anyone here making blanking plates for the ZD30? I have 2013 GU 3L.

I think having to clear error codes generated by the EGR block will drive me crazy so I'm thinking.....

I know putting a hole in the blanking plate partially defeats the purpose, but let's say I block 50% of the gasses, that means it will take twice as long to get the same amount of EGR gassess into the intake as it would had I not partially blocked it. OR it will take 10 years to get as much EGR gassess into the intake at a 50% blocking rate instead of 5 years had I not done anything.

That sounds reasonably correct doesn't it?

[togenshi]

Did you reset your ECU? I let my car re-calibrate itself for 30mins and had no P401 issues for months. Took battery off for a day, P401 everywhere :S. This is cause the ECU is expecting x amount of EGR. If you re-calibrate it to expect y amount of EGR (read none), the ECU wouldn't think there is an issue.

To re-calibrate the ECU, take the battery off the night before. Switch on car and let it idle till the temp is half way on the gauge.

[mudski]

I read the first 10 pages of this thread then ran out of time.

Is anyone here making blanking plates for the ZD30? I have 2013 GU 3L.

I think having to clear error codes generated by the EGR block will drive me crazy so I'm thinking.....

I know putting a hole in the blanking plate partially defeats the purpose, but let's say I block 50% of the gasses, that means it will take twice as long to get the same amount of EGR gassess into the intake as it would had I not partially blocked it. OR it will take 10 years to get as much EGR gassess into the intake at a 50% blocking rate instead of 5 years had I not done anything.

That sounds reasonably correct doesn't it?

Pretty normal if your running a Scan Gauge or similar to see this error come up on your model. Hodge had a CRD with the full block and while he did see the error code he just left it from memory. Use a full plate, if the error issue concerns you, drill an 8mm hole in the centre of it.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EGR-Blanking-plate-Nissan-Patrol-Navara-3-0ltr-CRD-Common-Rail-HOLE-/231158375994?hash=item35d21ce63a

[10G]

No I haven't recalibrated the ECU, I haven't even blocked the EGR yet. I'm not sure recalibrating like that would work, I'm probably wrong, but I thought the vehicle would be a bit more involved than that.

[Hodge]

I read the first 10 pages of this thread then ran out of time.

Is anyone here making blanking plates for the ZD30? I have 2013 GU 3L.

I think having to clear error codes generated by the EGR block will drive me crazy so I'm thinking.....

I know putting a hole in the blanking plate partially defeats the purpose, but let's say I block 50% of the gasses, that means it will take twice as long to get the same amount of EGR gassess into the intake as it would had I not partially blocked it. OR it will take 10 years to get as much EGR gassess into the intake at a 50% blocking rate instead of 5 years had I not done anything.

That sounds reasonably correct doesn't it?

Just block that s### asap. It's like re-routing sewage into your fresh water intake.
The code, apart from warning of something not right in the EGR system, does jack shit performance wise. It doesn't impact it one iota. For example it doesn't limp mode it or anything.
I just left my code sitting there and once a week, I check the codes to make sure there are not other codes involved.
Once in a blue moon that code will trigger an engine light. Have no idea WHY it doesn't do it all the time. But once again just clearing it gets rid of the engine light.
Drilling a hole in the plate is a waste of time, you might as well don't bother at all. It's like going to a brothel just for a hug. Why waste the effort.
Just block it completely and be done with it. Your engine will thank you for it.

[Spannerdriver]

Does anyone know about the legality of removing the egr system entirely? Looking at my GQ RD28 and thinking while the manifold is off it might be an idea

[mudski]

Does anyone know about the legality of removing the egr system entirely? Looking at my GQ RD28 and thinking while the manifold is off it might be an idea
If your motor is fitted with an egr, removing the egr would be illegal and the fine is pretty exy i believe if caught without it.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

[the evil twin]

Does anyone know about the legality of removing the egr system entirely? Looking at my GQ RD28 and thinking while the manifold is off it might be an idea

Well, pretty much totally illegal to dick with the anti-pollution systems on any engine.
But...
The only out there may be would be if you can prove the 'changes' still passed emmissions.

Blocking or removing EGR without any other changes will mean the engine will fail NOX emmissions

[4Bee]

Just blocked my egr and removed the butterfly from the throttle body on the intercooler last weekend (TD42) and made a big difference to the mid range.
Was a bit doughy off the mark before and is now noticeably better.
Can hear the turbo more now too . . . not sure of the boost as I don't have a boost gauge, but am waiting for some Auber gaugse to arrive so will know that and EGTs soon ;)

[GUDriver]

I blocked my EGR on my 2012 GU with ZD30 about a week ago, the car is a different machine. Pulls much better from a standing start and fuel consumption seems to be much better, I will only know for sure once I have run a full tank through and can compare. FWIW I put in a full blank and have had no error codes to date.

[GUDriver]

Pretty much. It is open quite often than not. If you are driving sensibly, it would be open for majority of the time.

Actually EGR is load dependent, you can have a half throttle setting with full load (going uphill) and EGR would be shut, half throttle and light load (going down hill) EGR will open.

[mudski]

Just block that sh!t and be done with it. Lol.

[Orsm6]

Hi all. I've seen a couple of threads mention that those with a ZD30 and have put the EGR plate in get a check engine light. I also am having this just recently. When i got the car no issue, MAF dided, i put a non-genuine one in then a month later i had engine lights and limp mode. Have since adjusted my dawes valve because and bout a proper MAF, no more limp mode but i still get the light. Checked the code by bridging pins and it says EGR control valve failure or malfunction. I have cleared the codes several times but it just comes back. Any thoughts? at a guess i'd say the plate has no hole in it.

been talking to bigguwesty and he has been helpful, just thought i'd ask around some more also :) TIA

[foggs]

Hi all. I've seen a couple of threads mention that those with a ZD30 and have put the EGR plate in get a check engine light. I also am having this just recently. When i got the car no issue, MAF dided, i put a non-genuine one in then a month later i had engine lights and limp mode. Have since adjusted my dawes valve because and bout a proper MAF, no more limp mode but i still get the light. Checked the code by bridging pins and it says EGR control valve failure or malfunction. I have cleared the codes several times but it just comes back. Any thoughts? at a guess i'd say the plate has no hole in it.

been talking to bigguwesty and he has been helpful, just thought i'd ask around some more also :) TIA

I've had it blocked for over a year now and unfortunately nothing I've tried has helped, it will come up regularly. I've noticed it pops up mostly when I put it under load, but I have a bluetooth OBDII, so it's a matter of pressing a few buttons on my deck to clear the codes. It's a bit annoying at times but you get used to it :) I might get fed up one day and put a hole in it, but for now deep breaths :)

[Orsm6]

HAHA thanks foggs. I was told i could chuck a hole in mine and that "may" help. I've seen a broken wire can also be an issue, but i am uncertain if the guy had a year the same as mine. Just one of a few things i'll check out.

[10G]

I might be blocking mine this weekend. No one knows how often the warning light comes on as it seems to be different for each vehicle. I plan on seeing how often the light comes on. If it's frequently I'll just leave the light on and clear it on weekends or whenever I can be bothered.

Does anyone know if you can use the Torque app to clear the code??? I have that app on my phone, it's a bit cheaper than a Scanguage ;-)

[BigRAWesty]

HAHA thanks foggs. I was told i could chuck a hole in mine and that "may" help. I've seen a broken wire can also be an issue, but i am uncertain if the guy had a year the same as mine. Just one of a few things i'll check out.
Has not bee a problem helping mate..
Pretty sure yours is a Di so is a little different to my crd.
The hole in the egr plate does stop the egr code. TPC had a hole in his. Pretty sure it's about 8mm.

[mudski]

I might be blocking mine this weekend. No one knows how often the warning light comes on as it seems to be different for each vehicle. I plan on seeing how often the light comes on. If it's frequently I'll just leave the light on and clear it on weekends or whenever I can be bothered.

Does anyone know if you can use the Torque app to clear the code??? I have that app on my phone, it's a bit cheaper than a Scanguage ;-)

If its a direct injection motor. Never.
If its a Common rail. How long is a piece of string? Each motor is different in the CRD's in reacting with a full plate. Best thing to do is just put in a full plate, if you get the CEL come up, drill a 8mm hole in the centre of the plate. But then your egr is not fully blocked, but its better than nothing. What the egr does to the intake system and motor, I personally would put up with the CEL coming up.

[Orsm6]

Has not bee a problem helping mate..
Pretty sure yours is a Di so is a little different to my crd.
The hole in the egr plate does stop the egr code. TPC had a hole in his. Pretty sure it's about 8mm.

Oh not doubting you at all champ. I'm just the sort of person to try and get all the info i can on thisngs and go from there. Drilling a hole is still definitiely an option :)

[BigRAWesty]

Oh not doubting you at all champ. I'm just the sort of person to try and get all the info i can on thisngs and go from there. Drilling a hole is still definitiely an option :)
Glad we got the boost limp issue sorted.. Atleast the car is drivable now

[Orsm6]

Glad we got the boost limp issue sorted.. Atleast the car is drivable now


yeah definitely agree with that. i'll report back on the EGR.

[foggs]

I might be blocking mine this weekend. No one knows how often the warning light comes on as it seems to be different for each vehicle. I plan on seeing how often the light comes on. If it's frequently I'll just leave the light on and clear it on weekends or whenever I can be bothered.

Does anyone know if you can use the Torque app to clear the code??? I have that app on my phone, it's a bit cheaper than a Scanguage ;-)

Yes you can use Torque or DashCommander to read and clear the codes. They also give you a description of the code, so you don't have to guess.
I use one of these with Torque, found on ebay..
68307

[threedogs]

I have my egr blocked on my 3ltr Di with no problems whats so ever, [no hole]

[UminaTroll]

So I have a late 2013 GU CRDI from new that is still under warranty (i got 5 years 140K). Would blanking off the EGR void my warranty?

[mudski]

So I have a late 2013 GU CRDI from new that is still under warranty (i got 5 years 140K). Would blanking off the EGR void my warranty?

Yes. Just remove it when ever you take it to Nissan. Plus its *cough* illegal *cough*.

[10G]

So I have a late 2013 GU CRDI from new that is still under warranty (i got 5 years 140K). Would blanking off the EGR void my warranty?

It depends on your dealer maybe???? On my Navara, the Head Service Guy at my local Nissan joint actually offered me a blanking plate for the EGR one time, I already had one fitted, I stopped short of telling him just in case, but the Nav was under warranty still at the time.

They actually replaced the timing chain on the Navara and had the vehicle for about a week, it had the blanking plate in then and no one noticed.

It may come down to the relationship you have with the people there, if you get on well, you may be OK. ????????????

[UminaTroll]

Probably best to leave it as is until the warranty expires... I just wonder how much crap will go through the engine in the meantime. What about something like a catch can... would that cause issues?

[10G]

Probably best to leave it as is until the warranty expires... I just wonder how much crap will go through the engine in the meantime. What about something like a catch can... would that cause issues?

I'm no expert but they could pull you up for having different size tyres if they wanted to I guess. It comes down to the dealer you go to and you can go to any of them for warranty work. You'll find some won't be bothered and others could be complete ba$$tds.

So maybe it comes down to you and how you feel about the possible risk involved.

How well do you know the dealer you're going to go to? Do they seem reasonable? Do they stay around and chat with you and answer questions or do they just want you out of the way as you're not there to buy anything?

If they hang around and chat, take you out the back to look at stuff and are happy to answer questions, then I'd say they may be lenient and understanding with things like catch cans and EGR blocks. But then again .......

[the evil twin]

One thing to keep in mind about Factory Warranty (I stress Factory Warranty) is the Dealer does Warranty work on a parts and labour cash recovery deal from Nissan.
I.E. what is and isn't covered/voided/constitutes a warrantable fault etc isn't the Dealers call, it is Mr Nissan.

When a potential warrantable problem is noted the Dealer/Workshop/Mechanic has to approach Nissan Aust.
If Nissan deny the warranty claim or want more info then the Dealer has to provide it to Nissan or try and fight the good fight on your behalf.
A good Service Dept. will go the extra yards in the fight, a bad one will just say Nissan said "Sux to be you" and if you don't agree you go duke it out with them.

Bottom line of that is the Warranty support and costs are not "on the Dealer" but are the responsibility of Nissan and the Workshop won't proceed on any work unless either Nissan or the Customer agree to reimburse him.

... for the record I had an EGR block, DP chip, 4Terrain Clutch and exhaust mods on my truck during the warranty period.
Of about a dozen faults I only had two issues rejected, a dump pipe stud issue due to the "aftermarket exhaust" and a Dual Mass Flywheel fault due to the "Aftermarket Clutch"

[Orsm6]

Hey guys, turns out there was a broken wire to the egr valve that had been soldered before. Problem gone. I now don't have CEL coming up all the time. Cheets

[BigRAWesty]

Hey guys, turns out there was a broken wire to the egr valve that had been soldered before. Problem gone. I now don't have CEL coming up all the time. Cheets
Great outcome

[threedogs]

Probably best to leave it as is until the warranty expires... I just wonder how much crap will go through the engine in the meantime. What about something like a catch can... would that cause issues?

If your local Nissanship says its OK to run a catch can, then get it in writing.
cause if it goes to pooh they may deny saying it at all

good result finding that broken wire

[0Hoon]

I've got a non intercooled TD42T(Y60 Safari) and couldn't really see any pipings going from the exhaust back to intake pipe, does that mean I have no EGR valve?

Cheers
Young

[growler2058]

Ordered a 3" S/S zorst for my DX, Ive got the EGR blanking plate in already. Im sure i read somewhere that i may now over boost even with the CRD. Is that right. Stooooopid search function is doing my head in! Do i need to fit a dawes valve? Am i gunna get error codes now? I got a scan gauge 2 so can clear if they come up. Should i be fitting pyro and boost gauges now, baring in mine the scan gauge shows boost

[BigRAWesty]

Yep I had issues on the highway with over boost when coasting..
Around town want an issue.
Just coasting was seeing up to 30 psi

[growler2058]

Bummer


Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs

[Clunk]

Ordered a 3" S/S zorst for my DX, Ive got the EGR blanking plate in already. Im sure i read somewhere that i may now over boost even with the CRD. Is that right. Stooooopid search function is doing my head in! Do i need to fit a dawes valve? Am i gunna get error codes now? I got a scan gauge 2 so can clear if they come up. Should i be fitting pyro and boost gauges now, baring in mine the scan gauge shows boost
Did you not see this then boyo?
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?t=38321

[10G]

I fitted a blanking plate a week ago. No codes.

[threedogs]

I fitted a blanking plate a week ago. No codes.

What boost are you getting

I thought a 10mm hole in the EGR plate stopped any issues

[mudski]

What boost are you getting

I thought a 10mm hole in the EGR plate stopped any issues

Not all CRD's get the limp mode or CEL issues for some reason. Much like the Tritons, its anyones guess.

[threedogs]

Bummer


Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs

Instead of buying a boost gauge cant you
hook up a temp gauge just to see what yo're getting

[growler2058]

Instead of buying a boost gauge cant you
hook up a temp gauge just to see what yo're getting

Yeah i will definitely get temp gauge

[10G]

What boost are you getting

I thought a 10mm hole in the EGR plate stopped any issues

How can I tell what boost I'm getting? I have no additional guages.

I thought fitting a blanking plate didn't cause any issues except getting error codes on the dash occassionally.

[growler2058]

I read somewhere only with the addition of a larger exhaust and the blanking plate that the boost can spike to and unacceptable level


Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs

[BigRAWesty]

How can I tell what boost I'm getting? I have no additional guages.

I thought fitting a blanking plate didn't cause any issues except getting error codes on the dash occassionally.
Do you have an ecu reader. Ie scangauge or similar

I read somewhere only with the addition of a larger exhaust and the blanking plate that the boost can spike to and unacceptable level


Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs
Egr block with stock exhaust is no issue..
It has enough back pressure.
But may get the code.
And it seems it's very exhaust system reliant too.. TPC doesn't have any boost issues with his holed block plate and 3" yet I did with my full blank and 3" exhaust.

Boost control has sorted my issues..

[10G]

I just ordered a poor mans scanguage, so I'll have a look at that, thanks Kallen.

[00marshall]

Hi guys, great thread. I starting researching how to get more towing ability out of my wagon. Read through this and decided I'll blank my egr to start with and see what that does. From what I read I just need the blank plate and something like a scan gauge to clear any errors and compare a few before and after readings. I have a 2012 GU CRD - sounds like it's straightforward. Have no other engine mods... Will see how it goes from this and look at chip and exhaust next.

Anyone have any towing upgrade suggestions they've used for similar model CRDs? I'm towing a 1.6T camper and it struggles...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[GU09]

Hi Guys, great thread. Getting my NADS stuff ready to fit. Has anyone cleaned their intake manifold as part of this ? To me it seems like a good idea to get rid of the accumulated gunk before fitting NADS as otherwise you still have the restricted intake even though it won't get worse.

[mudski]

Hi Guys, great thread. Getting my NADS stuff ready to fit. Has anyone cleaned their intake manifold as part of this ? To me it seems like a good idea to get rid of the accumulated gunk before fitting NADS as otherwise you still have the restricted intake even though it won't get worse.

Set aside a day or two when doing the intake manifold removal and cleaning. While its a good idea, its a big job aswell. A lot needs to come off when doing this job.

[10G]

I started getting the dash warning light after I blocked my EGR and like others I've noticed that is sometimes goes away on it's own. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to when it comes on.

If you get the app Torque and an OBD bluetooth connector, you can clear the codes that way. I've now got a Kings Scanguagey thing and use that to clear the codes/dash light.

So if I go with a 3" exhaust and with my EGR blocked how do I make sure my boost doesn't over boost? Do I require yet more stuff to keep that under control? I might just remove all the mufflers etc and stick with the stock size pipe???? What do others think??

[BigRAWesty]

I started getting the dash warning light after I blocked my EGR and like others I've noticed that is sometimes goes away on it's own. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to when it comes on.

If you get the app Torque and an OBD bluetooth connector, you can clear the codes that way. I've now got a Kings Scanguagey thing and use that to clear the codes/dash light.

So if I go with a 3" exhaust and with my EGR blocked how do I make sure my boost doesn't over boost? Do I require yet more stuff to keep that under control? I might just remove all the mufflers etc and stick with the stock size pipe???? What do others think??

It tends to happen on colder mornings or when air is more dense..
Yes torque will clear it but why not keep the EDS powered full time as a gauge for multiple things?
It may over boost it may not..
Mine did, so fitted tillix and needle valve, so boost is now mechanical..

[10G]

Do you get enough benefit from fitting a 3" exhaust to warrant the extra work??? Valves, needles, extra gauges & finding somewhere to put them.

Is it worth the extra work & expense? I only ask because I don't know, if everyone says it makes a huge difference then great, but if everyone says "oh yeah it makes some difference" then .....

[2Old2Slow]

Ok so after reading all 48 pages I thought I'd better register. Details of my ride(s) in intro thread but thought I'd provide some info. Had a RedBack 3" exhaust put on the 2011 CRD just after Xmas. Wife and were very pleased with result, general power better across the rev range and turbo seems to spool up a bit quicker. Intend to do the EGR block when I can get access to the vehicle, read intro for more info on that. Just ordered UltraGuage to check boost etc and need to disconnect battery to reset ECU I suspect as wife think fuel usage has possibly gone up a bit since exhaust was fitted...want to do CREB and Telegraph tracks before she comes home in July...So any CRD owner wanting a bit more grunt I do recommend the 3" exhaust it was a very noticeable improvement.

Graeme

[2Old2Slow]

....oh and no other engine mods....yet.

[10G]

Well I did go with a 3" zorst and after almost 2 weeks of driving, I've had no over boost or dangersous EGT levels or anything. The 3" mod is definitely worth doing, I can here the Trol thanking me every time I drive it.

[2Old2Slow]

Just as an aside to the EGR blocking debate, I read somewhere sorry can't remember, that the soot and other crap reinserted into combustion chamber finds its way into engine oil. Right numerous posters here acknowledge oil is cleaner after blocking, however what I read was that modern engine oils bond with the soot etc and effectively scour the engine parts it comes in contact with supposedly keeping engine parts cleaner...may or may not be BS... and certainly I'd prefer to have the cleaner inlet tract blocking the EGR brings to the table...so horses for course I guess.

[jsawrey]

Cool thread easy to understand

[2003new2patrols]

Hi guys im new to patrols bought mine a week ago now 2003 patrol 3.0 diesel with catch can all guages fitted. Thermo fans all the stuff i have read and has a 3 inch exhaust. But no egr block should i do this. I know nothing about these vehicles but what i have read. And want to keep her going. Just a bit worried about limp mode as mentioned. Will i get this and no idea about playing with turbo boost. Love this site its helping me to learn.

[growler2058]

Hi guys im new to patrols bought mine a week ago now 2003 patrol 3.0 diesel with catch can all guages fitted. Thermo fans all the stuff i have read and has a 3 inch exhaust. But no egr block should i do this. I know nothing about these vehicles but what i have read. And want to keep her going. Just a bit worried about limp mode as mentioned. Will i get this and no idea about playing with turbo boost. Love this site its helping me to learn.

Yep I'd me ensuring all the NADS mods are carried out mate

[Tamas]

Hello,

Just wondering if blanking could be substituted by inserting a one-way valve in the pipe leading to the EGR actuator? Has anyone taken the actuator apart - is the diaphragm strong enough? I would be curious if the actuator fully closes the recycling port when under full boost and keep it that way.

Cheers,
Tamas

[mudski]

Hello,

Just wondering if blanking could be substituted by inserting a one-way valve in the pipe leading to the EGR actuator? Has anyone taken the actuator apart - is the diaphragm strong enough? I would be curious if the actuator fully closes the recycling port when under full boost and keep it that way.

Cheers,
Tamas

Putting a blanking plate is a 10 minute job. Id say retro fitting a one way valve might take a while longer. Just to achieve the same outcome.

[Salim]

Is the EGR in the same place in the CRD (2008 DX)?

[quicksand500]

Why do we need to fit EGR blanking plates on the ZD30DDTI when the recirc system has a butterfly to begin with? Cant we just remove the vacuum from the solenoid to that?

[mudski]

Why do we need to fit EGR blanking plates on the ZD30DDTI when the recirc system has a butterfly to begin with? Cant we just remove the vacuum from the solenoid to that?

Two totally separate things mate. The intake has two butterflies. One to assist in engine shut down and the other acts like a choke when the engine is cold or at low rpm. This one some people will remove the vac pipe to it so it stays open believing it there is better performance to be had but there isn’t really.
These has nothing to do with the egr system.


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[quicksand500]

Two totally separate things mate. The intake has two butterflies. One to assist in engine shut down and the other acts like a choke when the engine is cold or at low rpm. This one some people will remove the vac pipe to it so it stays open believing it there is better performance to be had but there isn’t really.
These has nothing to do with the egr system.


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Perhaps not really the butterfly i'm speaking of then- at least that's my understanding. Its part of the EGR system and appears to be post exhaust manifold in the pipe work routed around rear of cyl head prior to EGR cooler.77316

[mudski]

Perhaps not really the butterfly i'm speaking of then- at least that's my understanding. Its part of the EGR system and appears to be post exhaust manifold in the pipe work routed around rear of cyl head prior to EGR cooler.77316

No butterfly on the ZD EGR here in OZ as far as I am aware, or have seen. This is an EGR valve on a ZD30 direct injection, they also have inbuilt cooling in the valve itself. The Common rail ones are different again and use a water rail but are nothing like what you have pictured. I think, been a while since I have looked at a CRD EGR system. and both are controlled electronically, not via vacuum.
77317

[quicksand500]

No butterfly on the ZD EGR here in OZ as far as I am aware, or have seen. This is an EGR valve on a ZD30 direct injection, they also have inbuilt cooling in the valve itself. The Common rail ones are different again and use a water rail but are nothing like what you have pictured. I think, been a while since I have looked at a CRD EGR system. and both are controlled electronically, not via vacuum.
77317

I think I have some pics to help this out. This vehicle is number four hundred and something of the CRD delivered to aus per VIN in 2007 so maybe they had a few mixed legacy parts in the design?

PICS ARE OF:
Electronic egt flow meter.
Water cooled pipe prior to meter
Solenoid that applies vacuum to the EGR valve solenoid
Dodgy attempt to see down at the diaphragm... behind head low down nearing gbox almost. Can't see if it's connected to exhaust down pipe??? Maybe not exhaust manifold??

Cheers

[quicksand500]

Sorry here are pics...7731977320773217732277318

[Hodge]

That's a CRD zd30 and yes it does have a EGR valve .

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[quicksand500]

That's a CRD zd30 and yes it does have a EGR valve .

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If you can catch the few messages earlier can you answer the question relating to the solenoid operation and butterfly?

Cheers.

[mudski]

That vacuum valve is not for the EGR system. in the CRD intake manifold they use the butterfly system, like the direct injection model use, but its one entire unit running the full length of the manifold. See first pic ref number 14517 is the vacuum controlled diaphragm.
7732377324

[Hodge]

If you can catch the few messages earlier can you answer the question relating to the solenoid operation and butterfly?

Cheers.

Sorry, I don't fully understand the zd30 egr system, to answer why you cant just keep the valve shut instead of inserting a blank.

These are just blind guesses...
Maybe the ECU will see the valve shut and throw out a limp triggering error?
Maybe if you remove vacuum from it, the valve remains OPEN and not closed?

Personally, Id be solid blanking it with a plate. 5 minute job...

BUt now i am abit confused. Photos you posted to me "looks" like its a CRD motor.
However... As far as I'm aware the CRD has a electric egr valve NOT vacuum operated. I used to own 2009 CRD and the valve began failing after a while because I could hear the whirring of the valve motor after motor shut off.
There was someone on the forum here recently with a failed egr valve, which was electric.

[mudski]

Sorry, I don't fully understand the zd30 egr system, to answer why you cant just keep the valve shut instead of inserting a blank.

These are just blind guesses...
Maybe the ECU will see the valve shut and throw out a limp triggering error?
Maybe if you remove vacuum from it, the valve remains OPEN and not closed?

Personally, Id be solid blanking it with a plate. 5 minute job...

BUt now i am abit confused. Photos you posted to me "looks" like its a CRD motor.
However... As far as I'm aware the CRD has a electric egr valve NOT vacuum operated. I used to own 2009 CRD and the valve began failing after a while because I could hear the whirring of the valve motor after motor shut off.
There was someone on the forum here recently with a failed egr valve, which was electric.

See my pics above Eric. I the he's confusing the vacuum operated valve setup in the manifold with the EGR valve, which is mounted on towards the front of the intake manifold, the pic of the diaphragm he's posted is towards the rear, right where this manifold butterfly set up is mounted.