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Wilburnator
8th April 2017, 12:26 AM
Hi to all the patrol experts!

I'm looking at putting in a new intercooler and an exhaust on my CRD ZD30 in due course. However due to budget constraints, they can't both happen at the same time... so herein lies the question - which will give the best bang for buck performance improvement (power, economy, lower EGT) to do first??

Thanks!


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MB
8th April 2017, 01:28 AM
G'day Wilbur mate, as best I have learnt here is that diesels are much like an air compressor. They do need unrestricted cool air in and again unrestricted warm fumes out therafter. My only advise for true performance would be to save hard and do both to match/tune together :-) !

Softy
8th April 2017, 03:28 AM
Exhaust made much more difference to my car then a upgraded intercooler..

Hodge
8th April 2017, 07:41 AM
Yeah I'm with Softy. Exhaust will give you instantly felt power and response difference. Intercooler would just give it more headroom for the EGT's.
Also don't forget. On a CRD, Exhaust may or may not increase your boost somewhat, and it might trigger limp modes. They all react differently. In this case you might need a Dawes and Needle valve kit from mudski.

Wilburnator
8th April 2017, 09:22 AM
Yeah I'm with Softy. Exhaust will give you instantly felt power and response difference. Intercooler would just give it more headroom for the EGT's.
Also don't forget. On a CRD, Exhaust may or may not increase your boost somewhat, and it might trigger limp modes. They all react differently. In this case you might need a Dawes and Needle valve kit from mudski.

Thanks mate, I had heard the boost can play up after a different exhaust was fitted. However I have already fitted the Dawes etc. so shouldn't be a hassle if it needs tweaking.




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Hodge
8th April 2017, 09:28 AM
Thanks mate, I had heard the boost can play up after a different exhaust was fitted. However I have already fitted the Dawes etc. so shouldn't be a hassle if it needs tweaking.




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Yeah you're sweet then mate. My 2.75" exhaust from Beaudesert on my 2009 CRD gave a massive improvement, especially when the dawes and needle were tuned to its sweet spot.
My EGT's were OK. But the factory intercooler leaked. So, it was a no brainer... Just put a better tig welded unit in it and she was apples.

Wilburnator
8th April 2017, 09:33 AM
Yeah you're sweet then mate. My 2.75" exhaust from Beaudesert on my 2009 CRD gave a massive improvement, especially when the dawes and needle were tuned to its sweet spot.
My EGT's were OK. But the factory intercooler leaked. So, it was a no brainer... Just put a better tig welded unit in it and she was apples.

Awesome thanks! Yeah I reckon that's the pipes I'll go for. A few have said that the Beaudesert are a really good match for the CRD.

Just out of curiosity, what sort of EGT numbers are you getting? Cruising/towing/hills etc? Was there much of a difference after the exhaust fitted?


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Hodge
8th April 2017, 11:22 AM
Awesome thanks! Yeah I reckon that's the pipes I'll go for. A few have said that the Beaudesert are a really good match for the CRD.

Just out of curiosity, what sort of EGT numbers are you getting? Cruising/towing/hills etc? Was there much of a difference after the exhaust fitted?


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Full factory form I was getting high EGT's. So thats no exhaust, no intercooler, no dawes/needle. This seems to be the norm on the CRD. It's been a few years since Ive owned my 3L. But from memory cruising was around 250-300C. But under load EGT's easily went to 500-600C. Even simple things like booting it to overtake sent the temperatures right up there.
Those temperatures were definitely tamed by intercooler and dawes/needle vavles being set. I hardly ever went over 450 after wards.
I also never towed so don't know how it wold have behaved with a loaded trailer.
The biggest difference to my EGT's were made by the dawes/needle valvees, because the boost was no longer controlled by the ECU and it was no longer a yoyo up and down all over the place. Boost had a linear curve evenly distributed which helped EGT's immensely. Car loved it !

If and when you upgrade the factory intercooler, because mark my words it will leak at some stage... I recommend the DieselSmart exchange unit. Here is my factory and DieselSmart side by side... Good bit of gear. When I got mine it was around $450 exchange...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71427&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71428&stc=1

Wilburnator
8th April 2017, 07:35 PM
Full factory form I was getting high EGT's. So thats no exhaust, no intercooler, no dawes/needle. This seems to be the norm on the CRD. It's been a few years since Ive owned my 3L. But from memory cruising was around 250-300C. But under load EGT's easily went to 500-600C. Even simple things like booting it to overtake sent the temperatures right up there.
Those temperatures were definitely tamed by intercooler and dawes/needle vavles being set. I hardly ever went over 450 after wards.
I also never towed so don't know how it wold have behaved with a loaded trailer.
The biggest difference to my EGT's were made by the dawes/needle valvees, because the boost was no longer controlled by the ECU and it was no longer a yoyo up and down all over the place. Boost had a linear curve evenly distributed which helped EGT's immensely. Car loved it !

If and when you upgrade the factory intercooler, because mark my words it will leak at some stage... I recommend the DieselSmart exchange unit. Here is my factory and DieselSmart side by side... Good bit of gear. When I got mine it was around $450 exchange...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71427&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71428&stc=1

Thanks heaps mate, very good info!

Mine is a 2008 CRD unmodified other than what I have put on (catch can, Dawes etc.) But like yourself, fitting the Dawes was a massive improvement, still tweaking it, but huge change. Before that, Egts often hit 500ish even just with a bootful around the suburbs.

I still hover around 350 cruising, no doubt better intercooler and exhaust would improve that further. Biggest improvement was under heavy acceleration, it doesn't go up anywhere near as quick.

Recently did a run with our 18ft pop top (1600kgs) on a day that was 37 degrees & strong headwind - temp held about 550 all the way. Occasionally bounced off the alarm (600) on some small hills.

The return trip was better, hovered between 450-500 for most of the journey. Seems the CRDs inherently run higher EGT than most.

Look forward to seeing how the cooler and exhaust will go...




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threedogs
8th April 2017, 07:41 PM
A tigged IC will give about 30% more IC, dont forget an EGR plate to compliment your mods.
Being an 08 I'd say your IC is leaking ,like Hodge says they all do at some stage. Being a
CRD I wouldnt go the Cross Country cooler, not enough bang for your buck IMO.

Wilburnator
8th April 2017, 08:02 PM
A tigged IC will give about 30% more IC, dont forget an EGR plate to compliment your mods.
Being an 08 I'd say your IC is leaking ,like Hodge says they all do at some stage. Being a
CRD I wouldnt go the Cross Country cooler, not enough bang for your buck IMO.

Thanks mate! I took it off recently when I replaced the glow plug seals and all joints are dry - but I hear you, & it will be gone soon. It has only done 130kms but I think leaks won't be far away now that I wound the boost up a bit with the Dawes.

I have the EGR plate from mudski, and will fit it soon. Being very unfamiliar with these cars and diesels in general, I'm just doing one mod at a time just to see what changes.

Really appreciate these forums, great info to be found here!


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Hodge
8th April 2017, 09:17 PM
Thanks mate! I took it off recently when I replaced the glow plug seals and all joints are dry - but I hear you, & it will be gone soon. It has only done 130kms but I think leaks won't be far away now that I wound the boost up a bit with the Dawes.

I have the EGR plate from mudski, and will fit it soon. Being very unfamiliar with these cars and diesels in general, I'm just doing one mod at a time just to see what changes.

Really appreciate these forums, great info to be found here!


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One thing at a time is the way to go.
As for blocking the EGR. The motor will thank you for it.
It may show up an engine light. Because it will detect no flow through the EGR valve. But the light is just that, a light. It does not affect the performance or anything in any way. For example no limp mode. Some Patrols throw up this light, others dont. Others only do it sometimes. I saw my light on once every 3 months from memory.
Its easily resetable.

There is also a trend to drill a hole in the blanking plate to let some gasses through and keep the sensor happy. It pretty much defeats the purpose and there has been posts about those holes being blocked with the EGR gunk after a while anyway... So why bother.