PDA

View Full Version : Getting hot after Dawes needle and 3"



growler2058
12th March 2017, 04:40 PM
Wow my water temps are HIGH like 122c high climbing up the hills. Only started since fitting the 3" zorst Dawes and needle mudski any ideas??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hodge
12th March 2017, 04:59 PM
What's your EGT's doing ? Where are they at when that happens?

threedogs
12th March 2017, 05:15 PM
also what boost are you getting ??

mudski
12th March 2017, 11:48 PM
Hey mate. We need to know what your max boost is and what your boost is at 100k's. Also an idea of EGT's too mate. If anything I would say your spool up is too slow, causing slight over fueling which may bring on higher than usual coolant temps. You manual or auto? If manual what gear were you in?

growler2058
13th March 2017, 04:48 AM
Haven't got the egt gauge in yet will do that tomorrow. Boost normally 15.5 saw it hit 16.2 going up the hill at the start. Been watching it at 100ks and it's around 10-12 it fluctuates a bit.

Edit: it's an auto


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

threedogs
13th March 2017, 10:13 AM
Another quick question have you blocked the EGR yet ????

Softy
13th March 2017, 11:16 AM
Shouldn't really have fitted it without an EGT gauge...

Try closing the needle valve to speed up the spool rate a bit.

growler2058
13th March 2017, 11:20 AM
Another quick question have you blocked the EGR yet ????

Yep egr is blocked


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rumcajs
13th March 2017, 12:27 PM
Firstly, how do you know it is hitting 122°C, factory gauge will not point to that. So Scangauge perhaps? Is it just incorrect gauge setting because at that temp the engine will be cooked for sure.

Secondly, fitting Dawes and needle valve combo even if you set it wrong (read lower values) should never ever cause engine overheating to such highs full stop. If unplug the vacuum hose from the actuator and go for a drive, the only thing you will notice is lack of power and perhaps EGTs skyrocketing. If anything Dawes and needle valve combo is exposing the issue with cooling system because they makes the system power up and stay up more. In any case this just might be coincidence.

3" exhaust will not cause overheating for sure.

To me this sound like either fan not working correctly or radiator is blocked either internally or externally which would affect the engine fan.

Regards

threedogs
13th March 2017, 01:00 PM
Try with the air-con on and fan on two, that will kick in the fan for the condensor
and maybe eliminate the viscous coupling as the problem

I was struggling to see how a 3" system would cause over heating probs

growler2058
13th March 2017, 02:38 PM
Ive just had the top tank removed system flushed and new coolant. It had been running 3C cooler. Coincidence that its gone up now the 3" and dawes etc have been added? Yeah I've got a scan gauge thats how i saw the temp go up. First time the factory gauge went above half to nearly "H"

Hodge
13th March 2017, 02:52 PM
Silly and obvious questions... How is the coolant level? And has the system been bled properly ?
And while fitting the needle and dawes, maybe you've knocked something?..... I know when I was doing mine I knocked a hose to my header tank while undoing a vacuum hose near the vacuum solenoid. Heard a hiss and then coolant ran out.... As I said, dumb questions, but figured I'd ask.


And bloody hell 122C is getting really high.

threedogs
13th March 2017, 02:57 PM
How many bog holes have you done lately {Love Day} included.
And X 2 with the others,, 122C is bloody hot you should of had
steam pouring out from under the bonnet, something would of failed IMO

I take it you parked uphill to "Burp" the system

growler2058
13th March 2017, 03:03 PM
No bog holes for a long time, definitely not since the radiators been done. Coolant levels look fine. It was bled at the mechanics. As soon as i went down the hill the temps rapidly fell back down, within 30 seconds. No hissing no steam nadda

threedogs
13th March 2017, 03:07 PM
So no steam etc @ 122C I'd say the gauge is giving a false reading some how.
wait till you have a proper gauge fitted and see if that makes a difference.
As I mentioned 122c would have steam hissing out even blowing a hose it
would have that much pressure

Making sure the ohm on the sender match the ohm of the gauge

Id be checking the settings on the Scan-Gauge

Did you notice where the OE needle was sitting??

growler2058
13th March 2017, 03:41 PM
Did you notice where the OE needle was sitting??

NEarly upto the "H"

Hodge
13th March 2017, 04:59 PM
Over a few cold bevies I've just been thinking and looking back at when I had my CRD.
Ca'rs coolant temps would rocket at the smell of any hill.... My system was normal and this was before AND after the NADS.
It never got anywhere near what you have had mate. I think max it got to once was like 102C... And even that for me was panic stations... But the temps quickly recvered.
CRD's are known for higher EGT's but ... I'm not sure about coolant.

growler2058
13th March 2017, 05:04 PM
Over a few cold bevies I've just been thinking and looking back at when I had my CRD.
Ca'rs coolant temps would rocket at the smell of any hill.... My system was normal and this was before AND after the NADS.
It never got anywhere near what you have had mate. I think max it got to once was like 102C... And even that for me was panic stations... But the temps quickly recvered.
CRD's are known for higher EGT's but ... I'm not sure about coolant.

The same hill it would often go to 101 or 99. Now its jumped 20C i shat

Hodge
13th March 2017, 05:07 PM
The same hill it would often go to 101 or 99. Now its jumped 20C i shat
Yeah I would have shat too . That's a big jump.

Sent from Note 4

Rock Trol
13th March 2017, 05:35 PM
The same hill it would often go to 101 or 99. Now its jumped 20C i shat

I have been playing around with my cars boost setup over the last few weeks and saw the same behaviour on hills when boost was low or the spool up rate slow. Set the Dawes to around 19 psi and close the needle valve. Then it's a case of slowly opening the valve and taking test drives until you find a balance you are happy with. Make sure the test drives also include highway speeds as I found that you can open the needle valve too much which will give you great torque down low but at 80-100kph there was not enough boost and power was terrible with high egt/water temp.

growler2058
13th March 2017, 06:48 PM
I have been playing around with my cars boost setup over the last few weeks and saw the same behaviour on hills when boost was low or the spool up rate slow. Set the Dawes to around 19 psi and close the needle valve. Then it's a case of slowly opening the valve and taking test drives until you find a balance you are happy with. Make sure the test drives are at highway speeds as I found that you can open the needle valve too much which will give you great torque down low but at 80-100kph there was not enough bossy and power was terrible with high get/water temp.

I'll give that a go tomorrow

mudski
13th March 2017, 09:31 PM
What happens if the car sits idle for a while? After its reached operating temp... Try removing the valves and put it back to stock maybe, and see if theres any difference.

threedogs
14th March 2017, 08:44 AM
Do you think you may of cooked something at 122C

Doesn't the Scan-gauge have an audible alarm like
my Ecu-Talk, that will sound an alarm @ 100C ??

You'll have a better idea whats going on when you have
the all your gauges fitted.

growler2058
14th March 2017, 09:35 AM
What happens if the car sits idle for a while? After its reached operating temp... Try removing the valves and put it back to stock maybe, and see if theres any difference.

It's sits perfect 85C at idle. I might pull the valves and see what happens


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BigRAWesty
14th March 2017, 10:01 AM
There is definitely something else at play here.
Noticed nil difference after egr block, exhaust fitment or tillix kit.

I'm thinking possible air lock but these things are good for self bleeding.
Whats the overflow doing when hot?
Filling up?
Have you got the caps the right way around?
Normal cap on radiator and pressure cap on top tank??

growler2058
14th March 2017, 10:06 AM
I had the radiator done before xmas done two trips since with no overheating issues whatsoever. Just since putting the 3" and Dawes etc. Got today off so will fit up the egt been driving in the burbs and issues aren't there gotta find a hill and a 100k zone near home


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

threedogs
14th March 2017, 10:16 AM
A bit of a mystery thats for sure, cant see it being anything major.
Do one thing at a time so you'll know what is causing this.

you have the air solenoid looped off at the air filter?
cant see that doing it though

still thinking false reading, only because there was no steam
or boiling, from reaching 122C

growler2058
14th March 2017, 11:38 AM
A bit of a mystery thats for sure, cant see it being anything major.
Do one thing at a time so you'll know what is causing this.

you have the air solenoid looped off at the air filter?
cant see that doing it though

still thinking false reading, only because there was no steam
or boiling, from reaching 122C

Yeah but both gauges skyrocketed. Unless the sensor is faulty

threedogs
14th March 2017, 01:38 PM
Doubt sensor would be faulty eh.

growler2058
14th March 2017, 02:55 PM
The things that are sent to PHARKIN test me! The dump pipe has two spots to potentially put the EGT gauge. Reckon either of the bloody bolts will budge!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

threedogs
14th March 2017, 03:11 PM
Give it a decent spray with something suitable ,,then have a beer and a sit down
then try again,,, repeat till bolt comes out LOL

take it youre using the one on the first bend closest to the turbo??

mudski
14th March 2017, 03:16 PM
Certainly odd this one. I think it has to be coincidental. Incorrectly tuned valves could result in high EGT's, but not water, I would think.

growler2058
14th March 2017, 03:34 PM
Give it a decent spray with something suitable ,,then have a beer and a sit down
then try again,,, repeat till bolt comes out LOL

take it youre using the one on the first bend closest to the turbo??
Now ive just done the school pick up so the dump pipe is raging hot to touch

threedogs
14th March 2017, 03:48 PM
Relax,,,, now lift the bonnet then go grab a can sit down say a few words.
repeat until cool enough to work on, yes my friend repeat if required lol

Hodge
14th March 2017, 03:52 PM
Certainly odd this one. I think it has to be coincidental. Incorrectly tuned valves could result in high EGT's, but not water, I would think.
But if your motor is burning heaps of fuel with not enough boost (incorrect ratio ) , therefore high egts, therefore that heat will the transfer onto your cooling system ...
Amarite ?

Sent from Note 4

threedogs
14th March 2017, 03:56 PM
But if your motor is burning heaps of fuel with not enough boost (incorrect ratio ) , therefore high egts, therefore that heat will the transfer onto your cooling system ...
Amarite ?

Sent from Note 4

exhaust gas EGT will get hotter with low boost and over fueling,
cant see how that can transfer to the cooling system??

Hodge
14th March 2017, 04:06 PM
exhaust gas EGT will get hotter with low boost and over fueling,
cant see how that can transfer to the cooling system??
So you push your motor up a hill regardless if it's overfuelling or not , your Egts go up, so obviously the motor is running warmer then.... What do you think cools the motor ? Coolant !
So therefore coolant will definitely get hotter. It's all relative .


Sent from Note 4

Rock Trol
14th March 2017, 04:44 PM
So you push your motor up a hill regardless if it's overfuelling or not , your Egts go up, so obviously the motor is running warmer then.... What do you think cools the motor ? Coolant !
So therefore coolant will definitely get hotter. It's all relative .


Sent from Note 4

exactly what I have experienced in the last few weeks as I have been playing with the valve settings and even let the ecu have a go at controlling boost (not a good outcome on hilly terrain). Boost and egt would fluctuate with terrain but water temp was getting hot at around 100 deg C. That extra heat in the head from combustion transfers into the coolent. Now I have set the boost to be around 19 max with a fairly aggressive spool rate and temps are down to what they used to be before I started mucking around with it.

threedogs
15th March 2017, 10:17 AM
growler2058 Did you get the probe in ???

growler2058
15th March 2017, 05:31 PM
@growler2058 (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?u=2058) Did you get the probe in ???

Nah now im at work. Sprayed with wd40 but it just burns off. I need to take the WD to work spray the bastard when its cool and try again in a few hours

threedogs
16th March 2017, 11:22 AM
Nah now im at work. Sprayed with wd40 but it just burns off. I need to take the WD to work spray the bastard when its cool and try again in a few hours

sounds like a good plan ,been hearing they are a biatch to get off some times
did it occur to you to loosen it when it was on the grass,,,lol

mudski
16th March 2017, 09:47 PM
Certainly odd this one. I think it has to be coincidental. Incorrectly tuned valves could result in high EGT's, but not water, I would think.

Ìm going to go back to this. High EGT will result in higher water temps.... I was driving my Patrol yesterday and I noticed myself subconsciously looking at the EGT's rising as I was going up a steep hill and then watching the water temps also rise. The both drop as I came off the top of the hill.
I then remembered back, driving up the coast with the camper and knowing exactly when the water temps would start to climb just going by the EGT's. For mine, it was when the EGT's passed 260c the water temps would go up, and go up by 5degs by every 30 EGT's or there abouts...

BigRAWesty
18th March 2017, 07:48 AM
Ìm going to go back to this. High EGT will result in higher water temps.... I was driving my Patrol yesterday and I noticed myself subconsciously looking at the EGT's rising as I was going up a steep hill and then watching the water temps also rise. The both drop as I came off the top of the hill.
I then remembered back, driving up the coast with the camper and knowing exactly when the water temps would start to climb just going by the EGT's. For mine, it was when the EGT's passed 260c the water temps would go up, and go up by 5degs by every 30 EGT's or there abouts...
This has a lot to do with cooling system condition.
In older systems it makes total sense to see water raise with egts. The engine is working harder, and hotter so the water would be heating up..
But if your cooling system is in good nick you may notice nothing.
I've seen 650 on the egts yet water temp didn't budge off the normal 89-91 range. .

threedogs
18th March 2017, 07:50 AM
growler2058 where you up to or too busy elsewhere ?? lol

growler2058
19th March 2017, 06:30 AM
growler2058 where you up to or too busy elsewhere ?? lol

Just nursing it till I get a day off. Temp status 88C driving on flat ground at 100. Will have a go at getting the egt on again today


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mudski
19th March 2017, 07:09 AM
This has a lot to do with cooling system condition.
In older systems it makes total sense to see water raise with egts. The engine is working harder, and hotter so the water would be heating up..
But if your cooling system is in good nick you may notice nothing.
I've seen 650 on the egts yet water temp didn't budge off the normal 89-91 range. .

Yeah you may, but may not too. The cooling system in mine is better than stock and i see fluctuations. But its a totally different motor so its kinda null comparing mine to this.
Get the egt gauge in first i reckon and it may show us something.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

BigRAWesty
19th March 2017, 07:43 AM
Yeah you may, but may not too. The cooling system in mine is better than stock and i see fluctuations. But its a totally different motor so its kinda null comparing mine to this.
Get the egt gauge in first i reckon and it may show us something.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
That is also true lol.

growler2058
19th March 2017, 05:52 PM
Taken the dawes and needle off and STILL running HOT!

Rumcajs
19th March 2017, 08:44 PM
Taken the dawes and needle off and STILL running HOT!

So indeed, you mentioned the cooling system was worked on recently? I know for the fact that ZD30 cooling system is very difficult to purge of the air unless done correctly. However that shows up very quickly or can, you may wanna investigate that too.

I can have 500°C EGTs on uphill climb at 100 km/h and coolant temps will not go over 92°C at 40°C ambinet temps.

So for those of you getting coolant temp rise withm the rise in EGTs the cooling system is marginal at best. ZD30 radiator size is good enough for LS2 V8 conversions.....

Regards

growler2058
20th March 2017, 06:19 PM
So indeed, you mentioned the cooling system was worked on recently? I know for the fact that ZD30 cooling system is very difficult to purge of the air unless done correctly. However that shows up very quickly or can, you may wanna investigate that too.

I can have 500°C EGTs on uphill climb at 100 km/h and coolant temps will not go over 92°C at 40°C ambinet temps.

So for those of you getting coolant temp rise withm the rise in EGTs the cooling system is marginal at best. ZD30 radiator size is good enough for LS2 V8 conversions.....

Regards

Million $ Question then, is how or what is the best way to bleed the air out?

Clunk
20th March 2017, 06:26 PM
Million $ Question then, is how or what is the best way to bleed the air out?
Fire, lots of fire

Sir Roofy
20th March 2017, 06:29 PM
When you re do it turn the heater on think they over looked that part
and have you checked the water pump it might have give up the ghost

growler2058
20th March 2017, 07:42 PM
When you re do it turn the heater on think they over looked that part
and have you checked the water pump it might have give up the ghost

Havent seen any telltale drips at all, and theres no noises?

threedogs
21st March 2017, 10:08 AM
park it up hill and cut the bottom off a coke bottle tape that to the radiator filler neck.
Get up to temp with the heater on, squeezing top hose every now and then.

Is the viscous fan working as it should???

You could buy one of those radiator bleed kits Hodge used recently
no idea where he got it. a gift I think

Rumcajs
21st March 2017, 07:26 PM
Million $ Question then, is how or what is the best way to bleed the air out?

Well, if it was done properly they'd use vacuum refilling unit where the created vacuum in the cooling system would sucks in correct amount of coolant from a container and without air pockets....

I've got that unit in my shed now as I have 4 cars to look after....

Your best bet is to warm the engine and then carefully slacken off the header tank (expansion) cap and watch for any depressurising/air/coolant escaping. I suggest do it slowly and have rubber gloves on so you don't scold yourself. Really be careful, I advise you practice the art with engine cold first so you know how far you need to undo the cap. once there is no longer any pressure coolant should be staying in while engine is idling and you can watch for air bubbles....

You could also create a bleeding aparatus from a spare/another cap drilled and/or with plastic hose inserted/sealed in the cap/header tank opening and the other end of the hose submerged in the cooke bottle with a bit of water in it so you can see it bubbling. This is home made "check for pressuring the cooling system" device. I also repurposed old Tee Kay head check combustion leak detector (http://wbtools.com.au/products/automotive-equipment/tee-kay-head-check-combustion-leak-detector/) for such purpose but that might not be an option for some.

The other way is to park the truck in such way that air can escape via header tank being highest point of cooling system with the cap undone.

When I had an air lock in mine I kept pulling over every 2 km and undoing header tank cap until bubbles/air escaping pressure stoped. It took about 15 km....

Regards

growler2058
21st March 2017, 07:56 PM
So I ran the ol gal with the heater on today (Farkin shitty humid day to do so). Got home waited for it to cool and cracked the header tank Rumcajs put a queen sized sheet over it........empty took about 3/4 ltr maybe 1ltr to fill. Ran it with all 3 caps off and coolant started to come out the radiator and splash me in the eyes (HAHAHA NOT COOL MAAAAN). Put that back on and left the header tank open and the over flow tank open and ran it up to 82C no movement, no bubbles. So I'll run into work tomorrow and see if the levels drop again.

mudski
21st March 2017, 09:58 PM
So I ran the ol gal with the heater on today (Farkin shitty humid day to do so). Got home waited for it to cool and cracked the header tank Rumcajs put a queen sized sheet over it........empty took about 3/4 ltr maybe 1ltr to fill. Ran it with all 3 caps off and coolant started to come out the radiator and splash me in the eyes (HAHAHA NOT COOL MAAAAN). Put that back on and left the header tank open and the over flow tank open and ran it up to 82C no movement, no bubbles. So I'll run into work tomorrow and see if the levels drop again.

You dont need to have the heater on mate. These dont use a heater tap, so coolant runs through the core regardless of what setting you have it on.

threedogs
22nd March 2017, 01:38 PM
I think that leaves only [maybe] to service your MAF and check your viscous hub.
Shouldnt need a fan at 100 kph , OOI does it have that bottom section of shroud
fitted its about 400mm by 50mm. plays a big part in the whole fan shroud thingie lol

growler2058
22nd March 2017, 06:15 PM
Yeah shrouds all there

Hodge
26th March 2017, 04:38 PM
park it up hill and cut the bottom off a coke bottle tape that to the radiator filler neck.
Get up to temp with the heater on, squeezing top hose every now and then.

Is the viscous fan working as it should???

You could buy one of those radiator bleed kits @Hodge (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?u=15680) used recently
no idea where he got it. a gift I think

Sorry for late reply. The spill free funnel kits are available everywhere. Example here...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Spill-Free-Funnel-Coolant-Fluid-Spout-Kit-/142163606451?hash=item21199c7bb3:g:ttIAAOSwn7JYE9p R

I have followed nissannewbys advice on mine (identical cooling setup as the 3L CRD). After initial top up and bleeding just by idling idling the motor, they eventually rid them selves off air after a drive or two.

I tried using the funnel on mine recently @ the radiator. And it certainly helped with the initial bleed after filling the system up.
The park up the hill trick will only work so far on these due to the header tank design. Header tank is the highest point when car is on level ground. No need for uphill parks.
They are designed to self bleed. Fill up radiator and header tank to max. Fill overflow tank to between min and max and then run the motor till thermo opens. Go for a drive and monitor the coolant level... Top up if necessary. Just make sure the overflow coolant is present for the header tank to suck out of... Mine settled after about 24 hours or so...

growler2058
26th March 2017, 05:05 PM
Sorry for late reply. The spill free funnel kits are available everywhere. Example here...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Spill-Free-Funnel-Coolant-Fluid-Spout-Kit-/142163606451?hash=item21199c7bb3:g:ttIAAOSwn7JYE9p R (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?campid=5336709507&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fitm%2FSpill-Free-Funnel-Coolant-Fluid-Spout-Kit-%2F142163606451%3Fhash%3Ditem21199c7bb3%3Ag%3AttIA AOSwn7JYE9pR)

I have followed nissannewbys advice on mine (identical cooling setup as the 3L CRD). After initial top up and bleeding just by idling idling the motor, they eventually rid them selves off air after a drive or two.

I tried using the funnel on mine recently @ the radiator. And it certainly helped with the initial bleed after filling the system up.
The park up the hill trick will only work so far on these due to the header tank design. Header tank is the highest point when car is on level ground. No need for uphill parks.
They are designed to self bleed. Fill up radiator and header tank to max. Fill overflow tank to between min and max and then run the motor till thermo opens. Go for a drive and monitor the coolant level... Top up if necessary. Just make sure the overflow coolant is present for the header tank to suck out of... Mine settled after about 24 hours or so...

I think Ive got a thermostat issue (not closing). It only heats up when under load. Idling it comes back down. Taking it to the mechanic due to the STUPID BASTARD location of the thermostat.

BigRAWesty
26th March 2017, 05:26 PM
I think Ive got a thermostat issue (not closing). It only heats up when under load. Idling it comes back down. Taking it to the mechanic due to the STUPID BASTARD location of the thermostat.
If its stuck open it won't heat up.
I'd say if anything its stuck closed or maybe partly.
So under load you aren't getting flow threw the radiator to cool it..

Hodge
26th March 2017, 06:01 PM
I think Ive got a thermostat issue (not closing). It only heats up when under load. Idling it comes back down. Taking it to the mechanic due to the STUPID BASTARD location of the thermostat.

Yeah good idea. They are in a c*** of a spot. Let someone else deal with it ...

growler2058
26th March 2017, 07:23 PM
If its stuck open it won't heat up.
I'd say if anything its stuck closed or maybe partly.
So under load you aren't getting flow threw the radiator to cool it..

Nah mate they heat up. If the thermostat doesn't close the coolant doesnt sit in the radiator long enough to cool down, just keeps flowing and getting hotter. Hence when im sitting at the lights just idling the temp drops back to 87 C

AB
26th March 2017, 07:35 PM
MB ^^^


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MB
26th March 2017, 07:41 PM
I believe everybody's on the same page, maybe just different timeline relative posts?

Rumcajs
27th March 2017, 07:31 PM
If the thermostat is stuck open it will not heat up indeed it will actually warm up a little if stationary but it will cool down rapidly once moving...open thermostat will never cause overheating, stuck closed or partially closed is another matter.

When thermostat is closed coolant is being recirculated around the engine block so it (coolant) warms up quicker hence the radiator hoses are usually cold especially the lower one. Try it! Once it (thermostat) opens the hoses will warm up to almost even temp or so it feels. Thermostat begins to open at 82C unless yours is tropical variety which is 76C.

If cooling system is operating normally temps around 86-89C are to be expected under most conditions (running at Robe in deep sand and ambient temp around 35C will push coolant temps up to mid 90C. )

Regards

MB
27th March 2017, 08:27 PM
Agreed, my personal experiences on different past donks have found that stuck open TS's only assisted heavy hauling conditions but found too low temps at stationary/lights as best I remember. When stuck at half or below open I've also had to completely remove TS's before which then does create way too much flow as per the vehicles OEM design. Just a bugger I guess the ZD30 isn't a quick pop out and kitchen pot test at home to view its action. I think others have also mentioned here potential viscous fan coupling issues or even poor water pump flow maybe?

MB
27th March 2017, 09:05 PM
Sorry Rumcajs, should have added, 'past donks' (350 chevs in FJ-LC's) had 16" front mounted electric push fans so "stationary" was same as rolling down a steep hill off power if that makes sense mate.

growler2058
28th March 2017, 04:43 AM
Will find out Friday

MB
28th March 2017, 08:00 AM
For sure, does sound like a prick of a TS location, best of luck with it Friday Growler! Rainsey over in the Chev thread reported recently very similar symptoms on his 6.5. Brunswick and him found the viscous fan was the culprit in his situation not fully locking up I believe under load on hills and had them totally baffled for a while.

growler2058
31st March 2017, 06:44 PM
For sure, does sound like a prick of a TS location, best of luck with it Friday Growler! Rainsey over in the Chev thread reported recently very similar symptoms on his 6.5. Brunswick and him found the viscous fan was the culprit in his situation not fully locking up I believe under load on hills and had them totally baffled for a while.

Well ive got it back but haven't taken it up a hill yet. Will do that tomorrow. Sssssoooooooooooooooooo. Thermostat was stuck between open and closed WTF???. MB they also serviced the viscous hub, rekin it wasnt spinning fast enough?? Dont know if theyre having a lend or not. Coz wouldnt it stay cool @ 100k's even without the fan running with the volume of air blowing in. And get hot at the lights without air flow, which was oppsite to my symotoms?? Anyway they tested it and rekon its good now. I'll report back tomorrow

MB
31st March 2017, 07:16 PM
Great news Growler, see you at the donk party hopefully! Sounds like you may have scored a double wammy mate, TS & Viscous working together for a complete pain in da :-( I'm not exactly sure how mechanics test the viscous hub at full temp and rpm 100% lock up, timing light and white marker crank versus fan maybe? With Rainsey's issue they supplied a solid van hub to run constant just to prove it was the viscous hub lacking say the last 10% pull I guess.

TPC
31st March 2017, 07:18 PM
Sure hope that's the problem solved.
Between the door lock and the overheating you have been cursed with this car.

growler2058
31st March 2017, 08:23 PM
Sure hope that's the problem solved.
Between the door lock and the overheating you have been cursed with this car.

2 simple things that were an absolute arsehole to sort out

Hodge
31st March 2017, 08:52 PM
Just curious, was a genuine thermostat used ?

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

MB
31st March 2017, 09:34 PM
2 simple things that were an absolute arsehole to sort out I feel your pain mate, try buying a 6.5 Chev/Trol as a rushed heavy haul replacement for your written off 4.2TD but soon after find it was so poorly setup and I'll guide you on how to burn $5k+ real quick getting it work usable :-( Cooling all our modified trucks is a challenge but rewarding when you've nailed it :-)

growler2058
1st April 2017, 05:27 AM
Just curious, was a genuine thermostat used ?

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

I dunno mate I'll look at the invoice, my missus picked it up yesterday


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

growler2058
1st April 2017, 06:35 AM
Just curious, was a genuine thermostat used ?

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk


I dunno mate I'll look at the invoice, my missus picked it up yesterday


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just checked and it says new thermostat to suit? But PHARK me it was $56!!!!

threedogs
1st April 2017, 07:09 AM
Just checked and it says new thermostat to suit? But PHARK me it was $56!!!!

lucky bugger you were sold the Gold TS,,,, cant get better than that,,,lol
Hopefully its sorted now, AHhh the complex ZD30

mudski
1st April 2017, 07:15 AM
So is it fixed? Is it. Is it!

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

Hodge
1st April 2017, 07:26 AM
Just checked and it says new thermostat to suit? But PHARK me it was $56!!!!

Ah yeah they are the titanium ones, dipped in gold ...
The ordinary genuine ones are around $25 genuine or less...
I'm pretty sure i got mine from Mudski for like $20...

https://atocauto.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=21200_MA70A

growler2058
1st April 2017, 08:05 AM
So is it fixed? Is it. Is it!

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

Ill know in a couple hours. Got some stuff to do first then up the freeway to test it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

growler2058
1st April 2017, 08:53 AM
Just driving into town the fan is a LOT louder


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

threedogs
1st April 2017, 09:30 AM
Just driving into town the fan is a LOT louder


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thats telling you its working,,,how many K's has it done OOI

growler2058
1st April 2017, 03:40 PM
Just curious, was a genuine thermostat used ?

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk


Thats telling you its working,,,how many K's has it done OOI

187k..........

growler2058
1st April 2017, 03:45 PM
Well on the S/E freeway steep hill for nearly 10k's pushing it hard i got to 100C just reading from the scan gauge. The dash gauge didnt move. So it seems to be fixed i spose. Will re-fit the dawes and needle

Softy
1st April 2017, 03:46 PM
S/E is a proper test... If it didn't cook going up there your good as gold!

growler2058
1st April 2017, 03:51 PM
Just curious, was a genuine thermostat used ?

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk


S/E is a proper test... If it didn't cook going up there your good as gold!

Bloody oath! Cruising the freeway at 110 and 60 in town it sits between 83 and 87. Up to 90 under load

Hodge
2nd April 2017, 06:24 AM
Good result mate.
Now we'll see ya at meetup.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

growler2058
2nd April 2017, 06:51 AM
The meet up is off. Got family to deal with :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sir Roofy
2nd April 2017, 10:59 AM
The meet up is off. Got family to deal with :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ill keep the billy warm just incase it works out ok

growler2058
2nd April 2017, 01:07 PM
Ill keep the billy warm just incase it works out ok

Cheers mate....

BigRAWesty
2nd April 2017, 07:56 PM
Bloody oath! Cruising the freeway at 110 and 60 in town it sits between 83 and 87. Up to 90 under load
Thats pretty normal mate.
But how does the fan now go?
Is it free spinning after a minute of 2 from start up or are you noticing it more around town?
I've just had mine replaced due to it being a suspect of the ac issues (I call bs, but its warrenty and I now have a perfectly fine hub in the shed..)
Anyway it's locked solid.
Will not disengage.
They say it's out of the box, no extra fluid added but I can't be sure.
Back to the shop Monday. .

Sent from my SM-G800Y using Tapatalk

growler2058
2nd April 2017, 07:58 PM
Thats pretty normal mate.
But how does the fan now go?
Is it free spinning after a minute of 2 from start up or are you noticing it more around town?
I've just had mine replaced due to it being a suspect of the ac issues (I call bs, but its warrenty and I now have a perfectly fine hub in the shed..)
Anyway it's locked solid.
Will not disengage.
They say it's out of the box, no extra fluid added but I can't be sure.
Back to the shop Monday. .

Sent from my SM-G800Y using Tapatalk
refilled with new silicone oil. It runs MUCH LOUDER
They cleaned it out and

BigRAWesty
2nd April 2017, 07:59 PM
refilled with new silicone oil. It runs MUCH LOUDER
They cleaned it out and
Yea thats good.
As long as it free spins too or youll be chewing more fuel with it locked.
If they use to much gel it locks.

Sent from my SM-G800Y using Tapatalk

threedogs
3rd April 2017, 02:28 PM
Good result now when the dawes etc are put back on it may improve a bit more

growler2058
3rd April 2017, 06:44 PM
Good result now when the dawes etc are put back on it may improve a bit more

It actually feels a bit sluggish now they've done the fan up.