Egr block off

[ranga071981]

Hi I am a newbie, Thinking of blocking off egr do i rely need to also fit a manual boost controller for turbo or can I leave it. All thoughts appreciated.
Cheers Ranga.

[threedogs]

Most will block the EGR [read illegal] much better for the motor they say.
I personally fitted gauges to see whats going on under the bonnet, a manual
boost controller will complete your NADS set up. All you're doing is taking the "thinking"
away from the ECU.
Ive blocked my EGR and fitted NADS with no dramas at all

[mudski]

Hi I am a newbie, Thinking of blocking off egr do i rely need to also fit a manual boost controller for turbo or can I leave it. All thoughts appreciated.
Cheers Ranga.

If its the direct injection motor you wont need to fit a boost controller. If its a Common Rail, then you more likely will need too.

[ranga071981]

Yeah its a 2012 DX common rail wagon mate just got it no mods as yet.

[mudski]

Yeah its a 2012 DX common rail wagon mate just got it no mods as yet.
Yeah you will more than likely see limp mode issues, which cna be recitified by a manual boost controller.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Hopkins]

If its a common rail fuel system you will need to drill a small hole around 6 to 8 mm into the block off plate , I no it sound dumb been that you are trying to prevent exhaust gas going back into you intake but if you don't have the hole in the plate it will go into limp mode due to the ECM seeing there was no boost drop when the ECM tells the EGR valve to open or work. The ECM is ment to see a drop in boost when the valve open's and by putting the hole there it lets the ECM see a drop in boost but been the hole is so small it will only let a small amount of bad hot crap air back into the engine. But if it's a old school fuel system mate go nut's block the bad girl off and don't stress about a boost controller she will be sweet.

[growler2058]

Hopkins mine doesn't have a hole and doesn't go into limp mode. What does happen is it throws a fault code which I clear in seconds with my scan gauge. 07


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Hopkins mine doesn't have a hole and doesn't go into limp mode. What does happen is it throws a fault code which I clear in seconds with my scan gauge. 07


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your one of the lucky ones G. Personally I wouldn't bother with drilling a hole in the plate, just fit a manual boost controller and get the best of both. A totally blocked EGR and better turbo control.

[threedogs]

Yeah its a 2012 DX common rail wagon mate just got it no mods as yet.

First thing Id be buying is a Scan gauge

[Hodge]

Like Growler and Mudski said. Drilling a hole in the plate is useless. It is only to stop the system from popping a ECU light on the dash. It does not send the system into limp mode.
My CRD had a plate and it popped up the light maybe once or twice a year... It does not affect the drive ability of the car at all. Its just a warning light. Simple reset with scan gauge.
Also definitely fit boost control setup on the CRD. The factory boost setup is OK. But can be tuned so much better with a manual control. Your car will thank you for it.

[Maxhead]

Leave it as is and don't fit one :)







................on the road

[Hopkins]

All good guy's it's a case of different systems for different vehicles and engine systems
If it is not doing anything other than bringing the light on all good and I would not bother with it and just drive on
Drilling a hole in the plate is no big deal but there are diesel engine's out there where there is no other way around it but to drill a small hole so the engine system can see boost drop, and a increase in inlet temp.
In this case I would just leave it and run with the boost control, see how you go and good luck hope it can work and fix your problem

[ranga071981]

thanks for the answers everyone will be defiantly investing in manual boost controller then.

[00marshall]

Hey all, Have a 2012 3.0 CRD - bought blanking plate (no hole) off eBay and fitted last weekend.

Slightly difference experience to some on this thread. Fitting was pretty straightforward - removed intercooler to get better access (surprised at amount of oily residue in it!). Despite suggestions that I could simply loosen a couple of screws and slide blank plate in, I had to remove 2-off mounting screws from the EGR unit too, so that there was enough movement/separation to get the blanking plate in. Also had to completely remove the 2 outlet screws before I could slide plate in - there was no way I could slide the plate in without doing this due to access restriction... even with slotted cutouts on the screw holes.

Still only took about an hour despite my novice mechanic skills. Happy with the slight low end performance improvement - most noticeably the fuel economy readings on Scangauge - 15-20% better... Can that be right?! Though economy was shockingly bad before. No fault codes yet either.

Will see how it goes towing - that's what prompted me to do it. Was getting 18-20lhk ave towing a 1.5tonne camper... 12-15lkh without!



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk