Clutch Pedal Adjustment?

[Throbbinhood]

Just wondering if there is anyone adjustment for where the 'clutch' pedal grabs on an rb30 GQ. My clutch isn't slipping, is only 10k kms old, but was like this before and after replacement.

It only grabs quite close to the top (that is, closest to the drivers seat). Is this how it's meant to be?

[Throbbinhood]

Bump.

Still have this issue, but now the clutch is starting to slip slightly. It feels (to me a layman), that because it's grabbing so late in the pedal travel, it's almost not fully disengaging (and now with a bit of wear and tear is starting to slip slightly). The clutch was a HD one supplied and installed by a very reputable 4b mechanic. While the car has sat in water once, that was 8 months ago, has done close to a dozen trips since including a couple towing a 1.5tonne camper, and has never slipped before.

Driving last night wasn't particularly harsh, so I guess I don't really see it being a worn clutch, and perhaps hoping it's as per my idea before of the pedal not fully disengaging.

[mudnut]

So you've bled the clutch and checked the slave cylinder is fully releasing?

[Throbbinhood]

Don't think I'd need to bleed the clutch? Isn't that normally associated with not being able to clutch/change gears?

How do I check the slave is fully releasing?

[Winnie]

I'm not sure about the RB30 but I think they use the same hydraulic system as the TD42.
There is some adjustment behind the master cylinder. Undo the two bolts and you can pull the master out of the way without losing any fluid. You can screw the push rod in behind it and that will give you a bit of adjustment.

[mudnut]

The manual states that a clutch slips because it is oil soaked. Diaphragm spring weak or damaged. Flywheel warped. Debris in master cylinder preventing full return.
Hydraulic line damage. binding in the release mechanism. So my question stands, have you verified the slave cylinder is returning to its fully released position? Bleeding the clutch just makes it operate correctly, so you know there is no problem and it takes bugger all time to do.

[mudnut]

Mine is not vacuum assisted so the only adjustment is at the top of the pedal arm under the dash. Pull the plastic plug out of the bottom of the bell housing and check if there is oil in there. If there is then my bet is it is slipping because of contamination. I took the van out and purposefully accelerated and decelerated and slipped the clutch to burn off the oil. It took about ten minutes.

[Throbbinhood]

Mine is not vacuum assisted so the only adjustment is at the top of the pedal arm under the dash. Pull the plastic plug out of the bottom of the bell housing and check if there is oil in there. If there is then my bet is it is slipping because of contamination. I took the van out and purposefully accelerated and decelerated and slipped the clutch to burn off the oil. It took about ten minutes.

I'll check for contamination. Slave cylinder is the rod that comes out on the drivers side of the gearbox, with the rubber boot to stop stuff getting in? So with nobody pressing the clutch, that should be able to move slightly i take it?

[mudnut]

Yep. the little rod is moved by the slave cylinder which is bolted to the side of the housing.

When you push on the pedal the rod pushes on the end of the clutch fork, which releases the clutch.

I just slid under the Old Trol and found that in the fully released position there is a gap of about 8-10mm between the back of the clutch fork and the housing.

I can press the fork a few mm toward the rear of the vehicle and it springs back to the same position.

[Throbbinhood]

Alright, thanks mudnut. I'll have a look, hopefully some mud or something jammed in there. Otherwise i'll be saying goodbye to $1300 for a new clutch at the mechanics.

[Throbbinhood]

So what's the purpose of the threaded rod that goes from behind the clutch pedal somewhere into the firewall. It appears to have a lock nut, some thread, and also a 'grippy' section for what one would assume pliers to turn it.

[mudnut]

Mark your starting position and try adjusting it.

[nissannewby]

There is a measurement for that adjustment. I think the rod needs to be 114mm or something if my memory is serving me correctly.

[mudnut]

Found some measurements in the Haynes Manual. Clutch pedal Hieght 202 to 212 mm. Freeplay 1-3mm. Stop lamp .3mm to 1mm.

The Factory manual states that the 202 to 212 mm is from the surface of the sloped metal floor to the top of the pad. The freeplay is the total of the pin and clevis and the piston and push rod combined. Adjust pedal height with the pedal stopper. Adjust freeplay with the master cylinder push rod or clutch booster input rod and then tighten lock nut.

[Throbbinhood]

Found some measurements in the Haynes Manual. Clutch pedal Hieght 202 to 212 mm. Freeplay 1-3mm. Stop lamp .3mm to 1mm.

The Factory manual states that the 202 to 212 mm is from the surface of the sloped metal floor to the top of the pad. The freeplay is the total of the pin and clevis and the piston and push rod combined. Adjust pedal height with the pedal stopper. Adjust freeplay with the master cylinder push rod or clutch booster input rod and then tighten lock nut.


Thanks for that mate. Does the manual say whether the input rod can be spun, or do I need to pull the pedal off so I can rotate the section at the end of the rod that joins the pedal?

And when you say freeplay, that is from when you apply pressure to the pedal to when the rod starts moving?

[mudnut]

By the looks of it, I would try and undo the pin and nut, adjust it then put it all together. PITA but I wouldn't be moving the piston for fear of creating a leak. Yep the freeplay is as you said.

[Throbbinhood]

By the looks of it, I would try and undo the pin and nut, adjust it then put it all together. PITA but I wouldn't be moving the piston for fear of creating a leak. Yep the freeplay is as you said.

Thanks. I'll have to remove the clutch pedal itself to adjust then. I tried last night, but the slide section that goes over the pedal (that the pin then goes through) is too long to turn with the pedal there.

Thanks mate.

[Throbbinhood]

Tried adjusting it, no joy, still slipping. I pulled the bung out of the bellhousing, no oil or liquid came out so don't think it's contaminated. Didn't bleed the slave, but I would think that would make it harder to change gear, not make the clutch slip?

Anyone know the going rate for a clutch changeover on a gq including flywheel machine and change the rear main seal? Anything else that should be done whilst it's apart? Would prefer something that will last me more than 20k kms. Even though I'm on 35s I'm pushing stock power so I think that's pretty average out of a HD clutch.

[Throbbinhood]

Car's at the mechanics. Turns out the clutch is fingered after less than 20,000kms. Said it was almost coming out in pieces.

Pretty annoyed. For a supposedly heavy duty clutch, don't really think it's good enough. I don't drive it that hard, most of those km's would've been on the highway.

Only time it gets a hard launch would be slippery clay hills. Even then, with the wheels spinning relatively quickly and easily, I'd have thought this wouldn't cause too many issues for the clutch.

So, the questions are - did the last mechanic actually put a new clutch in, or did I just get a dud? I've had multiple manual vehicles all with clutches going well over 100,000km's (including an xr6t that was abused daily), so 20k kms out of a clutch just has me dumbfounded.

[MudRunnerTD]

Doesn't sound right. What brand is the clutch coming out? How old? My GQ had a new clutch put in when I purchased it cause it was slipping badly. No idea what brand, I have FLOGGED IT and she is still all good 13 years later. The GUIV has 270kms on the factory clutch! Thinking I've done bloody well.

What brand are you fitting? Consider the UFI clutch. Expensive though. Terrain Tamer Tuff Clutch get a good wrap too.

[Throbbinhood]

The one coming out is an Exedy looking at the clutch plate (according to new mechanic). My old receipt just says 'fit new HD clutch', so at a guess Exedy HD.

Current (different mechanic) is looking into a few heavier duty options. But he agrees even if I thrashed it day in and day out I should've gotten more. I have no definitive way of knowing which sucks ass.

It never slipped during normal driving (until last trip), so I can't imagine that it was slowly slipping away, but perhaps it was, just not enough to notice?

Hoping that this new clutch lasts the life of the car. Given I'm going down to 33's (sick of yellow stickers) as well, really no excuse for another clutch to not last longer.

[mudnut]

Interesting. I have an Exedy clutch that has just clocked up 20000ks.

[Throbbinhood]

It's possible the previous mechanic never replaced the clutch, or it was a dud. Will never know unfortunately.

[MudRunnerTD]

Interesting. AB had an Exedy HD in his GQ with not that many kms on it that slipped when he fitted the new turbo. He was surprised too at the short life. He has now fitted a UFI Clutch.

[BigRAWesty]

Fark. 20 thou is crazy short..
Do exedy have a warrenty at all?
When I sold my gq at 526*** that was original clutch and flywheel..

[Throbbinhood]

Yeah it's really short. Paying money to do the same job twice within such a short timeframe hurts the hip pocket.

From what I could find, warranty is 10,000kms - but it's more of a defect out of the box type thing. Speaking to a few people, they have a few outs (bigger tyers, been thrashed, blah blah).

Geeeeeeez. 526k kms. That's crazy good haha!

[mudnut]

I stuffed up. The exedy has done 30000ks, but it also feels as if the is not a great deal of meat on it as it only takes a small push on the pedal to make it slip, under load.

[Throbbinhood]

Getting the car back today, woo!