Simple low oil pressure blinking warning light

[dom14]

Hey guys,

A guy came up with a simple circuit to achieve above goal on below link.

I thought it's a good thing post here for everybody's reference.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/280490-simple-oil-pressure-alarm-diy.html

[mudnut]

I have just bought a flashing LED to indicate the anti theft system is activated. It has a maximum working voltage of 10 volts. It will operate on a lot less, so the value of resistors used can be raised so the current flow is reduced substantially.
There are plates available to fit under the oil filter that have tapped holes to fit extra sensors and switches.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNIVERSAL-OIL-COOLER-ADAPTOR-ENGINE-BLOCK-FILTER-SANDWICH-PLATE-AN10-ALLOY-/321362797677?hash=item4ad2b7246d:g:N0kAAMXQeKNTM5l L&rmvSB=true

[the evil twin]

Yep not a bad idea as such but IMHO if you want to mod in another telltale you are better off with an Audio alert.

If you want a flashing LED to simply put across the existing lamp circuit they are about 30 cents each http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-PCS-10mm-RED-blinking-pre-wired-LED-light-bulb-5v-9V-12V-DC-flashing-AU-/262415339281?hash=item3d192c4f11:g:k00AAOSwVupTpsY t

If you want an audio alert and flashing LED then $2 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1pc-12V-22mm-Flash-Light-Red-LED-Buzzer-Beep-Indicator-AD16-22SM-/122023060324?hash=item1c69242364:g:6JsAAOSwc1FXai2 e

[dom14]

Yep not a bad idea as such but IMHO if you want to mod in another telltale you are better off with an Audio alert.

If you want a flashing LED to simply put across the existing lamp circuit they are about 30 cents each http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-PCS-10mm-RED-blinking-pre-wired-LED-light-bulb-5v-9V-12V-DC-flashing-AU-/262415339281?hash=item3d192c4f11:g:k00AAOSwVupTpsY t

If you want an audio alert and flashing LED then $2 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1pc-12V-22mm-Flash-Light-Red-LED-Buzzer-Beep-Indicator-AD16-22SM-/122023060324?hash=item1c69242364:g:6JsAAOSwc1FXai2 e

Thanx mate.
The second one is damn good. No need for extra wiring or circuitry.
Using the existing warning lamp circuit to wire up simple flashing LEDs is obviously a very good way to go about warning alarms.
It should work on both oil pressure & overheating.

[dom14]

I have just bought a flashing LED to indicate the anti theft system is activated. It has a maximum working voltage of 10 volts. It will operate on a lot less, so the value of resistors used can be raised so the current flow is reduced substantially.
There are plates available to fit under the oil filter that have tapped holes to fit extra sensors and switches.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNIVERSAL-OIL-COOLER-ADAPTOR-ENGINE-BLOCK-FILTER-SANDWICH-PLATE-AN10-ALLOY-/321362797677?hash=item4ad2b7246d:g:N0kAAMXQeKNTM5l L&rmvSB=true

Yeah, I installed a one of those sandwich plates last year for installing an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.
Then I spent hours fixing the existing oil pressure gauge sender unit(remember? :)). In reality it could've been fixed in an hour with
the right tools. :).
I didn't end up installing an aftermarket pressure gauge kit, but I will be installing a one soon anyway.
I wanted to install it the other day, but i couldn't find it among stash of stuff.
Easy to buy things and put them away, but not so when it comes to find them.
I'm contemplating on maintaining a database. :D

Sandwich plate seems to be good. No leaks, by the looks of it.

It also came handy when I did the oil pressure test with the tester.
Sandwich plate has spare plugged threaded holes, that comes handy with the test, otherwise
I would've had to undo the oil pressure sender again.

[mudnut]

How easy was the plate to install?. I am still toying with the idea of a pre-lube canister because my Patrol can sit for days or weeks, and the plate might be an easy, cheap way of attaching it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Boat-Car-Truck-Engine-Pre-Lube-Kit-/222180988007?hash=item33bb04d467:g:BQwAAOSw-RRXBrTm&vxp=mtr

[dom14]

How easy was the plate to install?. I am still toying with the idea of a pre-lube canister because my Patrol can sit for days or weeks, and the plate might be an easy, cheap way of attaching it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Boat-Car-Truck-Engine-Pre-Lube-Kit-/222180988007?hash=item33bb04d467:g:BQwAAOSw-RRXBrTm&vxp=mtr

It's too easy. All the bits and pieces to adapt the plate for many cars are already in the kit.
I had to buy an extra plug from Pirtek, 'cos it only came with one(they obviously forgot to add two).
Two threaded holes for fitting any sensors/senders mean two plugs are needed in case we don't use it for oil pressure sensing kit
installation straightaway.

Sorry mate, I have to get back to you on the prelube thing. I'm having a bit of brainfog atm and don't remember all of it's function.
I'll do some reading and get back to you to continue the conversation on that.

[dom14]

How easy was the plate to install?. I am still toying with the idea of a pre-lube canister because my Patrol can sit for days or weeks, and the plate might be an easy, cheap way of attaching it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Boat-Car-Truck-Engine-Pre-Lube-Kit-/222180988007?hash=item33bb04d467:g:BQwAAOSw-RRXBrTm&vxp=mtr

Yeah, sandwich plate is apparently a better approach than using a T-joint on the sender unit hole.

I'm thinking the above diagram doesn't have all the parts of the prelube system in it.
I'm thinking a prelube pump is an obvious part of the prelubing thing, yet i can't see a one in the diagram.
I'm also thinking that pump may be the most important & perhaps the highest costing part of the system.

Do you have your own prelube blueprint already in hand with an idea of what parts to get and where to get them?

Or are you thinking about not doing a DIY prelube kit, but buying a kit off fleabay?

I think the prelube kit is more important for newer engine than an older one, but I'm sure it can extend the life of an old engine as well.

[mudnut]

Yeah, sandwich plate is apparently a better approach than using a T-joint on the sender unit hole.

I'm thinking the above diagram doesn't have all the parts of the prelube system in it.
I'm thinking a prelube pump is an obvious part of the prelubing thing, yet i can't see a one in the diagram.
I'm also thinking that pump may be the most important & perhaps the highest costing part of the system.

Do you have your own prelube blueprint already in hand with an idea of what parts to get and where to get them?

Or are you thinking about not doing a DIY prelube kit, but buying a kit off fleabay?

I think the prelube kit is more important for newer engine than an older one, but I'm sure it can extend the life of an old engine as well.

It uses the engine oil pump to pressurise the tank. The solenoid shuts the tank off as the engine shuts down, thus retaining oil at pressure. When the ignition is on the solenoid lets the oil fill the galleries.

[dom14]

It uses the engine oil pump to pressurise the tank. The solenoid shuts the tank off as the engine shuts down, thus retaining oil at pressure. When the ignition is on the solenoid lets the oil fill the galleries.

Ok, cool I got it.
Not too hard to put together a DIY for lot less.

[mudnut]

The tank will be the hard part. Pretty much the same as the pressure bulb on an old Davey water pump.

[dom14]

The tank will be the hard part. Pretty much the same as the pressure bulb on an old Davey water pump.

It shouldn't be. Empty small LPG canister can be adapted for the job. Most of them come with a schrader valve. Fittings can be bought from Pirtek fairly cheap I reckon. Solenoid also should be able to able get for nothing from a wrecker.

Controller is the one I'm not too sure about.

What does it do?!!

I kinda picture is as a relay similar to the ones used for auto choke.

What I'm not too sure about is how the built up pressure in the storage tank is enough to push
the oil all the way to the hydraulic lifters!

[mudnut]

Have no idea. So I will sit back and watch you set it up. I thought a diaphragm or plunger would be needed to store the energy of the pressure, so it will feed back into the system. You would have to find the optimum pressure so it pushes the oil out but slowly enough that the oil pump can recharge it. But in saying that, maybe the controller is a timer. So that way you can't loose pressure if you leave the ignition on.

[dom14]

Have no idea. So I will sit back and watch you set it up. I thought a diaphragm or plunger would be needed to store the energy of the pressure, so it will feed back into the system. You would have to find the optimum pressure so it pushes the oil out but slowly enough that the oil pump can recharge it. But in saying that, maybe the controller is a timer. So that way you can't loose pressure if you leave the ignition on.

Not sure about the diaphragm technique.
I imagined the the tank get filled with oil under pressure and as soon as the solenoid shuts when the ignition is turned off, and
the pressure get stored in the tank. May be not.
I think it's too fiddly to use a diaphragm when an electric pump can be utilized without any issue.
It's also possible to simplify the electric oil pump operation by making it a manual operation before starting the engine, so you don't have to wire it up to be auto with a relay similar to the auto choke one.

I can't say I'm gonna do that for sure. :)
You put the idea into my head. :D
I just liked the idea of sitting back and watching you do it DIY.
Sounds like you're talking about buying it and fitting it in.
I guess that's not a bad idea if you don't have time to muck around with the fittings. :)

I would do it using an electric pump. I reckon it's lot simpler that way and by making it to a manual operation
you simplify it even further.

[mudnut]

The thing is with liquid, it won't compress so I don't see a solid tank doing the job. Hydraulic pressure can split things (nipples and such) open relatively easily.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llhcATrmsBg

[dom14]

The thing is with liquid, it won't compress so I don't see a solid tank doing the job. Hydraulic pressure can split things (nipples and such) open relatively easily.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llhcATrmsBg

Pretty entertaining fella. Not to mention very creative.

I'm still thinking the prelube thing can be pretty simple with a 12V electric pump, which can be bought
cheaply from fleabay and setup a manual press button to trigger it before starting.

With the engine oil pump running and forcing the oil into the container. Then when ignition off and solenoid shuts. Some pressurized oil stay in the tank. Not sure whether it's anywhere near enough to push oil all the way to the valve lifters. At it's best it would just hiss out few droplets of oil.
Yeah, the diaphragm technique or the electric pump is the way to go, except I dont have much of an idea on how to setup that diaphragm thing.

[GeeYou8]

I think the diaphragm on the water pressure tank is to stop the air that provides the spring being dissolved into the water & lost, is air soluble in oil?
Dry sump pump ($$$) & electric motor ? Could also run after shut down to keep cool oil going to turbo.
I don't think you are going to be able to pump up the lifters as they would need to be moving in order to pump up, but the oil could be right up to them ready.
Graham

[dom14]

I think the diaphragm on the water pressure tank is to stop the air that provides the spring being dissolved into the water & lost, is air soluble in oil?
Dry sump pump ($$$) & electric motor ? Could also run after shut down to keep cool oil going to turbo.
I don't think you are going to be able to pump up the lifters as they would need to be moving in order to pump up, but the oil could be right up to them ready.
Graham

That should be good enough for lifters, shouldn't it?

I didn't understand the bits "the diaphragm on the water pressure tank ".

I also didn't understand "Dry sump pump ($$$)"

[dom14]

Some good information on prelube system(s) here.

http://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/oil.html

http://industrialprelube.com/Pages/Wiring.php

[GeeYou8]

That should be good enough for lifters, shouldn't it?

I didn't understand the bits "the diaphragm on the water pressure tank ".

I also didn't understand "Dry sump pump ($$$)"

The pressure pumps for rainwater systems have a tank with a diaphragm, water on the lower side & air on the upper side, the pump pushes water into the lower side against the air pressure, when the water pressure gets to a set point the pump turns off, when you open a tap water pressure is supplied from the tank until the pump restarts. The diaphragm separates the water & the air.
A dry sump oil pump is an oil pump that is generally belt driven, used on racing engines that don't store all their oil in the crankcase, they are expensive.
Some things to look out for in a DIY system would be:
Oil volume, a pressure tank is going to take say a litre of oil from the sump when the engine is running and put it back at some time, that is the difference between max & min on the dipstick.
Oil Pressure/Flow, as you fill your tank, you are taking oil away from the engine, will need to control pressure & flow to your tank.

Have you looked at one of those dodgy "suck the oil out of the dipstick hole" oil change pumps?
You would need to find somewhere to pick up oil from.
Graham

[dom14]

The pressure pumps for rainwater systems have a tank with a diaphragm, water on the lower side & air on the upper side, the pump pushes water into the lower side against the air pressure, when the water pressure gets to a set point the pump turns off, when you open a tap water pressure is supplied from the tank until the pump restarts. The diaphragm separates the water & the air.
A dry sump oil pump is an oil pump that is generally belt driven, used on racing engines that don't store all their oil in the crankcase, they are expensive.
Some things to look out for in a DIY system would be:
Oil volume, a pressure tank is going to take say a litre of oil from the sump when the engine is running and put it back at some time, that is the difference between max & min on the dipstick.
Oil Pressure/Flow, as you fill your tank, you are taking oil away from the engine, will need to control pressure & flow to your tank.

Have you looked at one of those dodgy "suck the oil out of the dipstick hole" oil change pumps?
You would need to find somewhere to pick up oil from.
Graham

Thanx mate.

Now, I understand what the diaphragm is for and what a dry pump is.
Only thing I as a disadvantage on having a dry pump is that if the belt breaks or become faulty, the engine can seize. I guess it's not a good idea for ordinary passenger cars without some good fail-safe warning systems.

No, I haven't seen or heard of suction pumps for oil change.
I can't see the point as it's too easy to use the drain plug at the bottom of the sump.

Oil picking port for a prelube system can easily be T joint near the oil pressure sender/low oil pressure switch or we can use a sandwich plate on the oil filter port.
Or are you suggesting it has to be from the sump??!!

[GeeYou8]

You would need to pick up somewhere before the engine oil pump, you wouldn't be able to suck through the pump. Outlet could go to oil pressure switch line, I don't know that having a plate of sandwiches is going to help much.
https://www.autobarn.com.au/garage-tuff-12v-oil-extractor
Otherwise you could just rely on the anti drain back valve keeping the oil up where it is needed so that it is there when you start the engine.
Graham

[dom14]

You would need to pick up somewhere before the engine oil pump, you wouldn't be able to suck through the pump. Outlet could go to oil pressure switch line, I don't know that having a plate of sandwiches is going to help much.
https://www.autobarn.com.au/garage-tuff-12v-oil-extractor
Otherwise you could just rely on the anti drain back valve keeping the oil up where it is needed so that it is there when you start the engine.
Graham

Thanx mate.

Ok,cool. If I understood correctly, if I'm to use an electric pump for the prelube system,

I need to pick up the oil from bottom of the sump. Picking it from oil pressure sender hole or the oil filter hole using a T piece or sandwich plate won't help with electric pump, right?

If I'm to use an oil storage tank with a diaphragm,

then pick up spot is not that important, right?


Then I'm rethinking, all those prelube systems aren't necessary if we are to install a Anti Drain Back Valve.

How easy is it to install an anti drain back valve? Where would you install it?

Thanx
Dom

[GeeYou8]

Anti drain back valves are usually built into the oil filter, so you probably already have one.

[dom14]

Anti drain back valves are usually built into the oil filter, so you probably already have one.

Hmmm... so do we really need prelube systems then?! Is there any extra benefit from them?