My GUIII 4.8

[Mike02Ti]

Hi all, thought I would start a thread about my car and what will be done to it over time. This will be an evolving thread as things happen.

History:
I bought the TI spec model with the 4.8 having Dual Fuel. Previous owner actually fitted an oversized sub tank too! Bonus.
It was close to Bone Stock when purchased apart from a brake controller and a stuffed Anderson plug on the rear end, a GME UHF that has wires and tape all over the place and a crappy hands free kit.
Im the 3rd owner and got a pretty good service history with it. It was well looked after. Hardly seen any off road work apart from a few small tracks up North. Some scratches etc around but to be expected and not overly fussed about.
It has been a bit neglected inside, not any real damage, just unclean.
Now just Tidying it up to suit my needs

First week in having it ALL interior come out for cleaning and running cables apart from front carpet. I was surprised at how clean everything was under the trim panels. No signs of dust anywhere. Rear carpet was filthy so that got totally removed and cleaned. The underlay was stuffed so got thrown in the bin. It has now been replaced by foam anti fatigue matting which has worked extremely well.
All leather seats have been totally scrubbed and then gone over with leather protector.
Trim panels have been removed, hosed off/ scrubbed and now recleaned once gone back into the car.


The bloke who had it before me obviously had no concept of wiring. I have pulled out the busted UHF which was wired straight to the battery (not been replaced yet), hands free kit which was knotted around half the wires under the dash, an unused video cable running to the rear and a stuffed anderson plug running to the rear. The wiring is whats taken me about a week to complete

The Patrol didnt come with a remote central locking button. Further investigation showed I had it all there, so im guessing the remote got lost or didnt work, hence why I never got it when purchased.
So off to Jaycar and bought an alarm kit. The alarm side was dead simple to wire up. The central locking was a nightmare. I spliced into the white central locking controller via the 2 thick blue wires. That didnt work. Located the green relay. Got 3 doors and the tailgate to fire but not drivers side. Took out the drivers side actuator motor and deemed it to be stuffed after I cut it open. I could get it to move but there was no torque from the motor to actually operate the actuator on the door lock (under load)
So that is now residing in the wheelie bin and replaced with an off the shelf actuator from Jaycar using 3 of the 4 original wires in the door.. I spliced into the wires on the green relay box from the alarm and now everything is working fine!

Now I have played around with this alarm a bit , I really like it. The alarm has been set on door, accessory power, impact sensor and tamper (standard) protection. NATS takes care of the rest of the immobilisation.
The alarm talks to you as standard saying "armed" or "disarmed". I thought this would become really annoying but I actually like the cues it gives me, like if the kids dont close the door properly on arming it says "please close the door" within 5 seconds of me pressing the lock button. The tamper side of things say "dont touch me" with a few siren chirps as a warning . Found this out mucking around with fuses for the door lock trigger.
If the alarm was triggered by the door being opened or accessory power was applied while im gone, the alarm tells me "the door was opened" once I disarm and enter the car. As it sits now, the voice stays. Time will tell if I get sick of it.
Valet mode I found very handy so far. What this does is disable the alarm side until you reactivate it, instead of having the alarm auto arm itself after a certain period of time. Great for having the doors open for a while down the beach fishing or working on the car.
Auto arm does not lock the car if the doors have been opened. This means there is no chance of the alarm rearming itself and locking the keys and the keyfob in the car. Auto rearm will only relock the doors IF the doors have not been opened.
It has support for auto windows up and a remote boot trigger too. I highly recommend this alarm system

The wires I have now run through the car go into a 10 way fuse box rated to 100 amp that is powered once the accessories are turned on by the key. Anything that will be power hungry has its own switched relay powered from the fuse box and only the trigger wire for that relay comes from the fuse box (eg front light bar)
This has given me plenty of room to grow the system if need be.

Whats been added.

LED 120w 22" Light bar up front
LED 27w spotlight rear

4 x USB Ports in rear of center console replacing the ash tray on the back.
2x 12v power outlets rear cargo area

Eonon GA2114 Android Head unit 7" Display (Stay tuned for a more detailed write up on this)
JVC 6.5" Splits Front
JVC 6.5" 4 way coax Rear
Both powered by a JVC 300w RMS amp mounted in drivers side rear quarter panel. Passenger side is filled up with rear air con unit.

Reverse Camera with over ride switch
Steel Mate 836G Alarm

I will go into detail more about the head unit etc in another post.
I will also upload some pics of it too.

[threedogs]

You should know the rulse lol

[Mike02Ti]

In Cab power and switches:

Switches for the rear camera over ride and rear spotlight.
Rear camera over ride is very handy. I have the camera mounted just above the factory recovery point (note: I wont be using it, thought I would get that in before anyone comments) and I can see the towball mount. At the flick of a switch I can see whats going on at the back. I personally think it would be quite handy for recoveries.

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The 27w rear spotlight is mounted on the bottom of the rear step drivers side. When I need a bit more light reversing or out and about , eg fishing down the beach I can flick this on.
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USB ports for the kids. 2x USB ports for each of them. total output is 3.1 amp so the ipads can be charged with these no problem. They are illuminated blue.
They were Fitted in the rear ashtray hole. Needed a little bit of filing out to fit in the switch mount blocks but worked out great. The middle socket is empty at the moment but will be filled with something at a later date.
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2x 12v power outlets. 15 amp wiring run to each individually and fused. Nice and easy fit in the cover to get to the rear lights. Its quite a strong mounting point too. I pulled at them and that cover will not come out unless you push down on the release lever.
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[Mike02Ti]

Eonon Head Unit GA2114:

This is going to be a bit of a lengthy post to explain this as it can do pretty much anything, much like todays phones.

The Head unit runs an android based system. You can customize it to suit your needs/ wants which is why I chose it in the first place
First of all I will explain the android based head units as a group. There are pretty much 2 main types. MTCB based and MTCD based.
Most of the head units come from the one factory HuiFei then rebranded from the reseller. Pumpkin, Eonon, Xtrons, Erisin just to name a few.
While the externals look a bit different the internals are the same. I found this out while finding the firmware versions.
Which one have you got? Go into Settings and scroll down to about Device. You will see MTCB or MTCD in the MCU version. The build number will give you what chipset is used in your device.
NOTE: the firmware doesnt care what the "factory" sold it to you as. Its a HuiFei unit and the only things that matter are what chipset it has, the screen resolution and if its MTCB or MTCD. EVERYTHING ELSE is irrelevant!!
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There are 2 basic types of processing chipset options available. RK3066 dual core and RK3166 Quad core. 2 screen resolutions are also available 800x 480 and 1024x600. Both of these specs are important to know as it determines the ROM type if you want to upgrade the software.

For the purpose of this , the Specs on my unit are RK3166 Quad core with 800x480 screen resolution.

Out of the box this unit is very capable. For $340 I got the head unit, reverse camera and Aussie Sygic maps as part of the deal. Included standard was the GPS receiver, external microphone for hands free , ipod connection plug (30 pin old Apple connector, not the new Lighting type) , USB cables to plug in your phone or flash/hard drive or even a 3G dongle, WIFI and all your usual plugs and connectors.

This is the way I run it for the first week to make sure it was all working fine. Bluetooth worked pairing my phone for calls and music no problem, WIFI connects at home for updates to software etc or to transfer files I want it to. Radio works great and so does playing movies.
I can output the signal to 2 other monitors if I wanted and also have an extra video input for an external DVD player or other camera if I want (think front mount dash cam with the ability to record to the unit)

This unit doesnt have a cd/dvd drive at all. I wont use it. The model with the DVD drive was a 6.2" screen and mine is 7" due to having a little more real estate available. I will have all movies etc on a flash drive when I want them.

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I have changed the boot screen to show the Nissan logo on boot up, just for a little bit more of the factory feel.

Now onto what I want it to do......

I want it to read temps and pressures etc from the sensors via the ECU instead of cluttering up my dash with a million different guages.
This is where I run into a problem. The bluetooth OBDII/ELM 327 adapter I have would not connect. Why? Because it had a different name that didnt include OBD in its name and the head unit with stock firmware would not recognise this. My adapters name was PP2145. Bluetooth names can not be changed.
Yes I know you can change the name on your phone to whatever you want, but thats what your phone calls it, NOT what its true name is.

Solution, Flash the head unit with new firmware and install a program that lets me get rid of this limitation. Simple.
Now my OBD reader connects and I can get info from Nissan Data Scan II like water temp , throttle position, RPM and a few others. Im trying to find some other PID's I can get readings on like oil pressure and transmission temp. I have read fault codes with this too and sucessfully cleared them.
Im also trying to get Torque Pro to read data on this. I havent spent enough time with it to get this to happen yet. I do know the Nissan EX plug in does not with with the TB48 so far either.
There are a few other ones I am yet to try like Car Gauge PRO which apparently will read Consult II properly. I will report back on that.

If anyone wants I will post up a bit of a guide and software/ firmware recommendations for these units. Its very simple to do, even for the technically challenged.

Now I have custom firmware on the head unit , I can do pretty much anything from set auto dimming times based on GPS location/time to make everything I want run automatically on start instead of waiting for it to initialize.
What else does it do? Gets rid of the POXY 1 GB size limitation for installing apps and data related to them. You can now utilize the whole 16gb
this also lets you install different launchers,home screens and button layout customisation. Oh and the stupid non working weather app is now gone and replaced with a working one. If you dont like the one bundled with it, simply delete it and use something else. Dont like the keyboard? Change it. Want to just lower the music when selecting reverse instead of it totally cutting out? Simple, tick a box and its done.
All the apps I use on my phone can be installed on the unit.

Anyway even though this post is long and I could fill pages and pages I will leave it there. If anyone wants to ask questions go ahead.

Cheers
Mike

[Mike02Ti]

Some more pics:

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Sorting out the wiring on the drivers side. No it doesnt look like this anymore. Was a pain in the ring as there was 2 brake controllers (sensa brake and reese). This gave me an issue with the electric windows not working intermittently as whoever wired the brake controllers up spliced into the power for the windows without soldering or anything else really. Took me a while to figure out the cause.
If you look closely you will see the lid of the new fuse box I installed just to the left of the steering column

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Wiring on passenger side for the alarm and door locks. Again all nice and neat tucked up under the dash now

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wires and crap all over the car

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The reverse camera (tiny black thing just above recovery point) and rear light mounted. I will be making a little cover to go over the camera.

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First test of the 22" light bar

[NissanGQ4.2]

The reverse camera (tiny black thing just above recovery point) and rear light mounted. I will be making a little cover to go over the camera.



I hope you never use it as a "Recovery Point".

Could you jump into this thread and leave your details when you get a chance please Mike: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?14634-What-On-Board-Diagnostics-protocol-does-your-Patrol-use

[Mike02Ti]

I hope you never use it as a "Recovery Point".

Could you jump into this thread and leave your details when you get a chance please Mike: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?14634-What-On-Board-Diagnostics-protocol-does-your-Patrol-use

No that wont be used as a recovery point. I have heard the horror stories about them breaking. Its going to be coming off soon.

Yeah no worries, will do that now.

[Mike02Ti]

This is what I used for my speaker upgrade:

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JVC 6.5" Splits Up front

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JVC 6.5" 4 way in rear doors

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This is the 4 channel amp powering them to their correct RMS rating. Not some blown out power figure written on the box. This is probably one of the most important parts matching amps and speakers.

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Here you can see the 4 way speakers in the rear door. Tight fit but they do go in

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Front speakers there is a bit more room to play with

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Even though the tweeter is much much larger than the factory one I was still able to make them fit into the factory location. I removed the original tweeter and bracket then mounted the tweeter with heavy duty double sided tape. No holes to be drilled or cut and easy to remove if I had to.

The Amp is mounted in the drivers side rear quater panel. I couldnt do it on the passenger side as the rear air con unit takes up the entire space there.
This was a bit of a challenge and I am sorry I didnt get pics but I will remember when that panel is off in the near future.
Basically there isnt much room on the drivers side. I made 2 extended mounting straps. Think of them as a "U" shape. Think of it as a hanging bracket so to seak. 2 bits of threaded rod mounted to Ali flat bar. These mounting straps recess into the gap by around 70mm then the amp is screwed into the flat bar. It gave me just enough room to wire in the amp and also adjust it without taking it out.

The speakers all have new wiring run right up to the door harness which is where I cut and spliced in. Reason for this if you havent played about with the door electrics much is the doors are plugged in. they have their own harness so no real grommet to go through like older cars. So i just tapped into the wires needed and didnt modify the plug in any way.
Oh I also desoldered the original plug sockets off the old speakers and onto the new ones to keep the factory speaker plug.

How does it sound? Great apart from needing a bit more Bass. That will be taken care of soon with a Subwoofer of some kind. Im just unsure what way to go with that yet. Thinking an underseat sub of some type just to give it a kick. I dont want to take up any space in the rear at all with a sub box even though I have a 12" Alpine Type R in a box ready to go.
It gets plenty loud with it tuned the way it is. I can still get more out of it once I can tune out the Low frequencies with the amp which would be sent to the sub.

[Mike02Ti]

Ok I promised pics of the amp install when I took the panel off again.
Im just chasing a alternator whine noise issue down that I have narrowed down to the RCA leads so I snapped some pics in the process while Im sorting it out.

This pic shows where I mounted the amp on the Drivers side rear quarter panel. I had no real option to install on the passenger side as thats taken up with the rear air con unit on mine. The photo isnt upside down, the amp is as that is the way I wanted it so it was easier for me to get to the High Pass and Low Pass filters this way.
As I mentioned before its basically 2 rods with flat bar that make the cradle on each side. You can see the nyloc nuts on the outside for the threaded rod. Second photo shows the bracket better. The amp is recessed around 70mm inside the cavity. I have put flexible cable wrap around sharp edges to protect the cables.
On the right you can see 2 studs coming out. This is where my Earth has gone for the amp. I did have it on the main earth strap on the left but have since moved it due to the noise in the system. It has helped somewhat but still getting a ground loop from the head unit.

Things to watch out for:
You can see a little brown box under the amp. Its a controller for the rear windscreen wiper. I had to move it to get the amp in.
The cable for the Fuel flap release runs through that hole. there is more than enough slack to push it behind the amp out of the way and still work fine.
The rear windscreen washer cable also runs along the same path.
Further info: The white plug with nothing attached is for the factory CD stacker. Mine didnt have it in nor would I use it anyway so its redundant.
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Close up of the bracket inside.
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[jay see]

How do you find the head unit, wouldn't mind some feedback once you have it all up and running for a while.

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[Bigcol]

nice looking rig mate

[Mike02Ti]

Jay its been great so far. No regrets in buying it at all. I have had very high end stereos and head units before. So i can compare to these. This one for functionality is way above anything else I have used. This was the reason I wanted it in the first place.
I didnt want heaps of things hanging off my dash or around me, too many distractions and way too complicated to install properly. eg : reverse camera screen, dash cam, extra gauges, phone mount, external gps. All in my opinion would need to be hard mounted, especially when going off road.
With this unit I have it all in one device and its in a factory location

Like I said before I have reflashed it to gain more settings I can customize to suit my needs. For the average user it may not be necessary, but its simple to do.
The radio works well, the bluetooth functions great with calls and music, I have now got a few different launch screens to try and see which one I like best.
I press the Navi button and my gps software comes up. You can change what you use mainly in settings for this button. If you use iGo or something similar change it to iGo, then it pops up when you hit the navi button. If you want something else to pop up instead like Google Maps, make the button default to that. Simple.

Not once have I thought "Oh I wish it could do that" because it does it. I have just changed my setting of muting on reverse to just turning the music down low on reverse. I have also changed to make the volume go up as the speed of the car goes up, so the sound from the stereo is now relative to the speed via GPS which is always on. Please note: this is not the factory option, this is due to me reflashing the firmware that I now have this option.

It multi tasks well. If I want to change my radio station while the GPS is giving me directions I press the home button and then radio, then select. To go back to the GPS I hit the navi button and it comes back up without losing my position or route. Same can be done for phone calls or bluetooth sound.

I can not comment on the sound direct from the head unit as I am running an amp so anything I say on that would be irrelevant.

Im still having a few issues in regards to the OBDII element but that is more so because of Consult II not being supported on certain apps. Not the head unit itself.
I will get some more pics of it running today with the different Launchers going to give you a look.


Thanks Big Col. I know there are no real outside pics yet. Will remedy that soon I hope. But its bog stock outside really.... for now......

Now for people with issues of shitty GU Patrol reception !!! Especially with aftermarket head units.
I have just bridged the Dual Diversity antenna to join both of them together. My reception is 100x better doing this now.
How I did it was very basic. Wrapped some stripped copper out of some speaker wire I had laying around , around the 2 pins a couple of times to effectively bridge them. Plugged it back into the dual diversity adapter and all is good!
Will this work for you? I dont see a reason why not. If the reception gets worse its simple to undo so just try it.

While your there make sure your head unit is grounded properly. Yes the antenna acts as a ground but its not a good one for head units. this should also help with reception.

[jay see]

Thanks Mike.
Any issues with the processor, is it up to speed or is there any lag?
I assume that there isn't.

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[Mike02Ti]

No the chip keeps up really well. Clock speed is 1.6ghz. Being a quad core helps multi tasking a lot. No issues with lag that I have seen so far and I have been using the GPS and bluetooth to play music at once as well as having the browser open in the background and Car Guage Pro connected all at once. Switching between them felt pretty normal. I have had on occasion the music from bluetooth pause and unpause when running a few things at once but I think thats to be expected. Delay may have been 5 seconds tops each time.
Boot up time from cold boot is around 15 -20 secs .
You can set the unit to shut down fully anywhere from 30 secs to 2 hrs. I have mine set on 2 hrs so its instant on anywhere in between that time.

Mines running Android KitKat 4.4.4 now. was 4.4.2. I toyed with the idea of going to Android 5 but I dont think its really needed at this stage as the unit functions well as it is.
I may play around with it in the future though.

While its booting you still have reverse camera available too. So say first thing in the morning turn the car on, head unit starts booting ,chuck it in reverse, head unit straight away cuts to the camera. Select Drive and head unit continues to boot.

As a price comparison goes it was either spend around $1000+ on an alipne or other name brand unit to do something similar that has Android Auto, and still be behind on features, or get the unit I did or a variation of it for $350 running a normal Android OS and be able to play around with it more and have more features out of the box.

Yes you read correct , there are 2 different types of Android.
Android Auto is slowly being taken up by the bigger manufacturers but it has its limitations at the moment. It also blocks many functions while your on the road when your moving. I understand the need for some of this but not others. Quite a few times I have now had my passenger look up something on the browser head unit like an address while I am driving. This is not allowed on Android Auto and blocks it Til you are stationary. There also havent been many apps developed for that platform yet.

The Generic Android used in the HuiFei made units that are coming out of China have been adapted with different user interfaces specifically for cars but retain the general Android function and feel. Also any app in the app store will work with it. So thats another plus.

[Mike02Ti]

This post has been a bit delayed but here it is.
Few different Launchers (home screens) are now available to me. Some can be customized more than others. Wont go into too much detail as they all have the same basic functionality but some show more info, some show less. As you can see some show speed reading via GPS which I have found quite nice to have. A couple have weather read outs based on GPS coordinates.
One of them has extra trip computers which can be configured and triggered from the home screen. Another handy thing for them is you can stop them and start them. Handy for me checking on fuel consumption between gas and petrol when flicking between them.
Obviously the backgrounds can all be changed. Some apps can be placed wherever you want on the screen with a few, some other launchers only allow them to be just moved into one or 2 spots.
The one I am running on the most is in the second pic. The others I have just mucked around with and not much more. Themes can be downloaded for I think 3 of these launchers as well
Sorry for the reflection in the pics. I have also included a pic of the radio app
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[threedogs]

You lost me at Hi all,,,lol this unit sounds awesome way above my head Im afraid.
Do you have a link to the unit at all. TIA

OOI does it have facilities for DBV TV at all I like my TV

[Mike02Ti]

You lost me at Hi all,,,lol this unit sounds awesome way above my head Im afraid.
Do you have a link to the unit at all. TIA

OOI does it have facilities for DBV TV at all I like my TV

Here is the link to the one I specifically bought. https://www.eonon.com/Android-Car-GPS/2-Din-GPS-Navigation/GA2114.html

But as i said before pretty much all of these come out the same factory . Just with a different sticker or fascia plate. So do some shopping around.
All of them as far as I can tell support DVB-T or DAB+ in some way shape or form.

The one for my unit is this one https://www.eonon.com/Accessories/Other-Accessories/V0052.html
You can also get external antennas for them too.
I may get it in the future , unsure as of yet. But I know I can also output the signal to other monitors if I like.

Dont be scared of these units. They are pretty simple to grasp. Out of the box they work perfectly fine. I just wanted more options than the standard software let me have hence me reflashing the firmware with another version. Which is also simple to do. Basically the only way you could stuff it up is if you turned the car off or disconnect the battery.

Best way to think of these units is a mobile phone layed on its side with a built in radio. Everything your phone can do, this will do.
If there is enough interest I can do a how to on it including what firmware versions are available etc and also external links to the support sites for them.

[threedogs]

There is a mob down Seaford near Melb that sell TV antenna they have two styles ,
they are called Laser antenna from memory, as after trying every known antenna
on the market "Lasers" was the only one that worked....


Im trying to think if Id need any of the functions that are available, the Dash cam sounds handy
GPS are IMO old hat I seem to get where I want without one,
On board diagnostics sounds handy too ,but I have ECU-talk for that.
I do have a 15" flip down screen Im planning on installing in the cargo area, so movies might be OK
I just dont know, The price on that link was good value

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GA2114-Android-Head-Unit-2-Din-7-Car-Stereo-GPS-E-Radio-OBD2-Touch-Screen-iPod-/361629514202?hash=item5432cc79da:g:X6kAAOSwIgNXjzn L

[Mike02Ti]

Cheers for the tip on the antennas. Will check them out.
I guess in your case is what do you want your head unit to do.

The price for what you actually get is great. Put an Alpine sticker on it and you would be looking at $900+ and probably still not have the functionality of this one. Thats what won me over.

Yeah they pop up via resellers on ebay. Still the same units.

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[threedogs]

The laser antenna I have is called a 780 so I suppose thats 780mm long
There is a longer one available

[Mike02Ti]

Had a bit of a win today.
Factory diff lock didnt work..... surprise surprise . First time I have managed to test it was last week.
So I have now done the usual MAC valve upgrade and it is working perfectly fine.

All the lights and the stupid buzzer are working as it should too. No bad noises when it engages or disengages. Actually its extremely quiet and quite quick.
Couple of circles on grass/ sand either way confirmed its definitely on. From what i had read I only expected it to work in 4 low but its working in 4 high as well so thats a plus I think.


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[Mike02Ti]

Got my new rod holders today. Fitted them up in about 20 mins all up to the factory roof bars.
Cost $99 off eBay which I thought was a real bargain.
I wanted something that could take around 6 rods when I go fishing with the kids and my Dad.
They slide out to help loading them up and lock back in place. Then key lockable if you have to do any stops along the way.
They are made pretty well and all the mounting hardware come with it for pretty much any bar you may have too.


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/182.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/183.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/184.jpg

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[Corsta0211]

Nice truck, plus the audio upgrade must sound great!

[Mike02Ti]

Thanks. Yeah the audio upgrade is great. I highly recommend it to anyone.

Ok well the past couple of days i have been trying to get more info from the OBD system to be displayed on my head unit. Still haven't got the elusive tranny temp though. This seems to be the holy grail.
From what i have read the Bluetooth OBD adapters only read the ECM for some reason.
Yes i know you can read it with NDS II with a cable but thats not how im set up. I want it all to come through the head unit via my bluetooth adapter and not have a cable and a laptop or separate carputer in the car.

So i went looking through the service manual hoping to find some info on this. Well I may or may not have found something.... time will tell. We have a signal going from the TCM to the ECM for tranny temp. We also have an output signal from the ECM to the dash display for the tranny temp (warning light). So im hoping i can find that and some kind of useable PID to then display temp direct from the ECM. Not sure if its possible but i will try it.

On another note my Engine is running at about 3° of ignition instead of about 10° so going to sort that out today.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/10/59.jpg

This display shown is via car guage pro. Its an older guage set with a bit of a pain in the arse interface but it does alright.
I still cant get Torque pro to work yet. I think im going to have to set my own PID's on it in order for it to work. You can see the ignition timing in the bottom right corner.
We all know that the speedo on the dash isnt correct usually. The speed shown via the Vehicle Speed Sensor is pretty close to GPS speed though which i found interesting.
What i didnt expect was the tacho on the dash to be out around 250rpm. This really surprised me.

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[Corsta0211]

Interesting. Those gauges look good with the blue background. I hope you get Torque pro to work.

[Mike02Ti]

Yeah the guages i dont mind. Just a pain that i have to reload the gauges each time i want to use the app ( read each time you exit and re renter the app). It gets tiresome.
This is one reason I hope to have Torque Pro working as it automatically loads all that on boot. Im scanning the extended PID's as we speak and will submit the logs to the developer to see where the problem lays.
I know he as been working on consult support and its in Beta at this stage so hopefully soon all this will be working.
I will be trying to have a look at the log myself and see if i can get some of the PID's that work over CAN working as well.

Well my ignition timings now reset to within specs. Havent managed to take it for a drive yet though. IAC learning is also done. Lowered th idle by about 250rpm then i rechecked timing again which it needed a tiny adjustment again.

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[oncedisturbed]

Nice setup, what was the stereo you used?
May need to look at something like that for mine


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[Mike02Ti]

Its an Eonon unit. A few posts back I explained the Android units in a bit of detail. Basically most of the units are made by huifei in china. All easily upgradeable and can do pretty much anything you want.
One thing i definitely recommend is to run an amp as the head unit sucks donkey balls in regards to output.

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[oncedisturbed]

Ah I missed that, I've run a few earlier Eonon units and they've always been good


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