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dom14
12th June 2016, 09:01 PM
Hey Guys,

What is wrong with this picture?!

My RB30 horn just got stuck for no obvious reason.
I pulled out the horn and it looks like as in these pictures.
I'm wondering how it's been working!
There's no spring action.
Is there something missing?

Thanx

Yendor
14th June 2016, 07:48 AM
All that you showing in your pictures is the metal clips that hold the horn pad to the steering wheel. I don't see anything missing there.

The horn switch contacts are in the pad where the black wire is connected in your first picture.

dom14
14th June 2016, 07:53 AM
As in the pictures horn button assembly comes off pretty easy on a GQ.
Can any of you guys please confirm there're no missing pieces in the pictures?
In a GQ of the same built time as mine, you can simply pull it out with your hands.
Grab the edges and pull.

dom14
14th June 2016, 08:04 AM
All that you showing in your pictures is the metal clips that hold the horn pad to the steering wheel. I don't see anything missing there.

The horn switch contacts are in the pad where the black wire is connected in your first picture.

Something's not right.
There's no spring action or clicking action that I can feel.
The pad where the switch is suppose to be, just looks like and feel like a thin pad with nothing in it.

dom14
14th June 2016, 09:53 AM
duplicate, deleted

dom14
14th June 2016, 10:08 AM
There are two metal plates inside that performed the task of a switch.
bottom plate has "polyps" on it that touches the top plate when pressed.
There's a foam sheet in between metal plates to prevent them touching all the time, but only when
pressed and the gap is closed. That piece of foam is worn out and hence the reason for horn going off without having to
press it.
I'm planning to make a replacement foam sheet using a one in the kitchen or garage and fix the thing.

dom14
14th June 2016, 09:12 PM
Here I fixed it guys. It was a bit of a PITA, 'cos being outside, freezing my arse in Melbourne winter.
Took good couple of hours, even though it looks simple and quick.
Photos are self explanatory. I used a kitchen sponge cloth & acrylic paint(water based).
I reckon it should last long enough.

dom14
15th June 2016, 08:26 AM
You can also cut few pieces of kitchen sponge cloth and glue it to the metal plate(the one with polyps), in between "polyps".Probably a quicker fix than the craftsmanship that I went for as above. Bit of trial and error with few pieces and add more as you go should work.

GeeYou8
18th June 2016, 11:12 PM
I don't think the cellulose type sponge cloth is the best choice.
These sponges are soft when wet but dry out hard & will not have any spring, also when new they are wet with water & detergent & will probably cause some rust problems.
A better choice might be the thin foam they put under floating floors, a hollow punch or wad punch will make nice neat round holes.
Graham

dom14
20th June 2016, 12:59 PM
I don't think the cellulose type sponge cloth is the best choice.
These sponges are soft when wet but dry out hard & will not have any spring, also when new they are wet with water & detergent & will probably cause some rust problems.
A better choice might be the thin foam they put under floating floors, a hollow punch or wad punch will make nice neat round holes.
Graham

Hi Graham,
Yes, that probably true. I know they tend to dry up quickly as kitchen wipes, although they tend to hold
the sponginess when not used as kitchen drying clothes. I used a new one, not a used one.
ATM, it's going ok. I have to see how it goes.
I hope it won't deteriorate any soon. If it does, it's an easy fix. I hope it won't absorb any moisture into the cloth and cause rusting.
I had to use a rotary hole puncher 'cos I didn't have a hole punching kit.(I'm buying a kit now, as I can see they
are pretty handy tools to have).
Thanx
Dom