Alternator Warning Lamp Circuit Question

[dom14]

Hi Guys,
I'm trying to expand my understanding of the alternator lamp circuit, so I won't end up "cooking"
anything during my repairs, tests or mods in the electrical system.

I'm referring to my GQ RB30 here, but I'm guessing the question(s) apply to any charging system.

1)The lamp circuit of the GQ alternator/charging circuit reads +1.5v when the ignition is on and the engine is NOT running. The wire colour in GQ Patrol is white with a red stripe or yellow with a red stripe(depending on the location).

2)When the engine's NOT running and ignition's on, this white wire with red stripe acts as an earth.

3)When the engine's running this wire get energized by roughly +12V

Now, referring to below standard circuit of of the alternator/charging system, I can understand the number 3 above.

But, I'm still lost with 1 & 2, namely how to explain the +1.5V reading on the wire & how it manage to earth.(I'm using typical alternator circuit diagram below to understand it)

I'm guessing regulator circuitry has something to do with that?

I would appreciate if you guys can explain this to me, perhaps with a sketch or a regulator circuit diagram?!

Thanx

[the evil twin]

1) reads +1.5 volts WRT earth because that is the voltage drop over the Reg (the rest is over the lamp and wiring)

2) when the Alternator has an output the phase diodes are forward biased and the wire becomes high WRT earth

[mudnut]

Off subject, but a checking for a blown globe is one the easy things to check when the alt fails.

[dom14]

Off subject, but a checking for a blown globe is one the easy things to check when the alt fails.

How does that work?

[the evil twin]

How does that work?

If it's blown, it doesn't...

[dom14]

If it's blown, it doesn't...

What globe are we referring to?
Are we discussing the typical way the alternator fail(by putting out excess voltage)?
Then the globe(s) tend to blow if left for too long?

Or are we discussing about wiring a voltage sensitive globe(blows above 15V or so) somewhere in the alternator output and place it on the dash or somewhere visible, so we know when the alternator fails?!

[Yendor]

If it's blown, it doesn't...

Now look at what you have started LOL

[the evil twin]

Now look at what you have started LOL

I know, I know... what else can I say, the voices made me do it... pretty good play on words tho, you must admit

[the evil twin]

What globe are we referring to?
Are we discussing the typical way the alternator fail(by putting out excess voltage)?
Then the globe(s) tend to blow if left for too long?

Or are we discussing about wiring a voltage sensitive globe(blows above 15V or so) somewhere in the alternator output and place it on the dash or somewhere visible, so we know when the alternator fails?!

If you look at the RB30 circuit the globe is in circuit with the field.
If the globe blows the globe doesn't work, and
If the globe blows the Alternator doesn't work as it probably won't flash unless there is sufficient residual magnetism, and lastly
If the globe blows you have no warning the Alternator doesn't work

Ergo, if it is blown nothing works.

[Yendor]

The L and IG wires are not the same wires as your GQ they are two different wires.

The L connects to the warning light in the dash (white wire red trace) as well as the auto choke and FPCU.

The IG is the sense wire (white wire) that from factory connects into the main B+ white wire about six inches from the alternator.

ET has explained why/what is happening with 1&2.

Inside the regulator there is a processor, possible a couple of switching transistor, a few diodes and a zener diode from memory.

When the ignition is turned on current flows through the alternator warning light in the dash down through the alternator regulator. This turns the warning on as well as the alternator regulator.

Once the alternator is charging the voltage at the alternator warning light terminal (L) raises to charging rate (say 14 volts). This puts the same potential on both sides of the alternator warning light in the dash (14 volts both sides) so current doesn't flow so the warning light is turned off.

The alternator regulator measures the voltage on the sense wire and constant switches on and off the field circuit to maintain the voltage at it's set level. The higher the electrical demand the lower the voltage the longer the field circuit is held on by the regulator.

[dom14]

If you look at the RB30 circuit the globe is in circuit with the field.
If the globe blows the globe doesn't work, and
If the globe blows the Alternator doesn't work as it probably won't flash unless there is sufficient residual magnetism, and lastly
If the globe blows you have no warning the Alternator doesn't work

Ergo, if it is blown nothing works.

Is this better??!!
Why didn't you say so before? I would've corrected it ages ago.
I know the wording was incorrect. :D

[dom14]

I'm still confused guys. I'll post bit later.
Hold onto ya tights. ;) :D

[mudnut]

What I am saying is that the alt warning globe is actually an integral component of the voltage regulator circuitry. if it blows, due to age, vibration, over voltage etc, the alternator will not work. Therefore, if your alternator is not working, checking if the globe is blown is one of the first and easiest things to look at.

Always replace it with a similar wattage globe as it will affect the operation of the regulator.

[the evil twin]

Is this better??!!

It was OK first time




Why didn't you say so before? I would've corrected it ages ago.

Say what before... I was quoting another post in reply to your query.
It wasn't until then the blown globe was mentioned




I know the wording was incorrect. :D
Thats cool, so is mine most of the time...

[mudnut]

He he, sneaky thread hijack pays off:)

[the evil twin]

He he, sneaky thread hijack pays off:)

In spades...

[dom14]

He he, sneaky thread hijack pays off:)

It wasn't a thread hijack. You brought up something pretty damn important.
You did a big favour to me by bringing it up. I didn't even know before that I should've asked that question.
Now, I do. :)
The idea that the failure of alternator warning light leads to alternator failure is something totally new to me. :)
Now, I just need to understand it along with my OP questions. :)

[dom14]

What I am saying is that the alt warning globe is actually an integral component of the voltage regulator circuitry. if it blows, due to age, vibration, over voltage etc, the alternator will not work. Therefore, if your alternator is not working, checking if the globe is blown is one of the first and easiest things to look at.

Always replace it with a similar wattage globe as it will affect the operation of the regulator.

Yeah, I think it's a bad design. The regulator should be "smart" enough to have separate warning lamp circuit & field current circuit, as it may be indicated in the below picture. L & IG are two separate pins/wires that come out of the regulator in the diagram.

But, apparently that's not the case with RB30 alternator regulator?!!

[the evil twin]

Yeah, I think it's a bad design. The regulator should be "smart" enough to have separate warning lamp circuit & field current circuit, as it may be indicated in the below picture.

Why? .

[dom14]

Why? .

sense wire have connection issues or the fuse on it dies and the alternator puts out some 18+ volts.
That kills the alternator dash warning light(assumption on my part).
Now you have a sense wire problem and warning light problem, a combined trauma.
Auto sparky is the only guy who can figure that out.
Certainly it won't be my cup of tea, regardless of how much I've learnt from you guys. :icon_bonk:

[the evil twin]

snip...
sense wire have connection issues or the fuse on it dies and the alternator puts out some 18+ volts.
That kills the alternator dash warning light(assumption on my part).


Your assumption is wrong, a sense wire fault won't blow the lamp

When the alternator is running on all 3 phases the lamp has approx zero voltage drop which is why it goes out, 12, 14 or 18 volts doesn't matter

[mudnut]

So you want to run a double redundancy system? Come on , do you really think a manufacturer would do that, unless it was for the luxury or military markets?

Breakdowns keep the economy ticking over:)

[dom14]

Your assumption is wrong, a sense wire fault won't blow the lamp

I believe you. But, you still have to give me the facts behind your conclusion. Otherwise, I'll only keep annoying you here. ;) :D

[dom14]

So you want to run a double redundancy system? Come on , do you really think a manufacturer would do that, unless it was for the luxury or military markets?

Breakdowns keep the economy ticking over:)

No argument there mate. :D

The "typical altenator circuit" I downloaded from internet and uploaded here suggest two separate pins(wires) for warning lamp circuit & trigger/field/exciter circuit. So, I was guessing it's been already out there. It's that I just don't have it, 'cos I gota GQ?! :D ;)

[dom14]

Your assumption is wrong, a sense wire fault won't blow the lamp

When the alternator is running on all 3 phases the lamp has approx zero voltage drop which is why it goes out, 12, 14 or 18 volts doesn't matter

Yeah, that would mean the regulator puts out "-18 volts"(on the lamp circuit) [or is it +18V] and that would roughly give -6V to the warning lamp(-18V+12V), so the warning lamp would come on, but nowhere near enough to cook it(I'm obviously speculating here with loose knowledge).

Yeah, my argument was apparently based on a wrong assumption as well as poor understanding.(obviously forgetting the base fact of how the warning lamp circuit works)

Does this mean mudnut's worry about alternator lamp blowing is NOT likely to happen?!!

[dom14]

If I disconnect the sense wire, would the dashboard alternator warning light come on?!

[Makka]

a little knowledge can be very dangerous

[mudnut]

I ain't worried about it. Just thought you would like to know about it, cause that is the sort of great guy I am:)

[the evil twin]

snip...
Yeah, that would mean the regulator puts out "-18 volts"(on the lamp circuit) [or is it +18V] and that would roughly give -6V to the warning lamp(-18V+12V), so the warning lamp would come on, but nowhere near enough to cook it(I'm obviously speculating here with loose knowledge).


Nope...

If the Alt is putting out 18 volts at the Reg Diode Pack then that is also the voltage that will be (WRT earth or -ve if you prefer) at the B+ and therefore the Battery positive, the Ign cct and everywhere else in the vehicle.
There will not be anywhere in the vehicle supply buss that is at 12 volts so there is no 18-12=6

[the evil twin]

a little knowledge can be very dangerous

ROFL... and a lot can be bloody frightening

[dom14]

I ain't worried about it. Just thought you would like to know about it, cause that is the sort of great guy I am:)

But....I am worried about it. ;)...that is regardless of knowing what a great bloke you are. :D

[Yendor]

No argument there mate. :D

The "typical altenator circuit" I downloaded from internet and uploaded here suggest two separate pins(wires) for warning lamp circuit & trigger/field/exciter circuit. So, I was guessing it's been already out there. It's that I just don't have it, 'cos I gota GQ?! :D ;)

Your just over thinking it Dom.

The warning light in the dash has two reasons. One it lets the driver know if there's a problem with the alternator. Two it turns the alternator regulator on.

If something happens to the warning light bulb once the alternator is charging this will not affect the charging rate. The alternator/regulator will still charge at the correct rate until the engine is shut down.

If something happens to the sense circuit and it goes open circuit this will not bring on the warning light.

You need to stop looking at the diagram of the other alternator and comparing it with your GQ. They are different. That doesn't make one better then the other.

[Makka]

ROFL... and a lot can be bloody frightening

yes my freind this is true

[the evil twin]

Your just over thinking it Dom.



I like to over think things as well.

It makes my failures much more spectacular and hurts my head

This can be expressed by the equation - 'Epic Fail' + 'Sore Head' = Alcohol Binge
where
Epic Fail = ((Alcohol Binge + Freakin' Awesome Idea) / (I.Q. - Medical Insurance)) to the power 'n' where 'n' is the number of observers

[dom14]

I like to over think things as well.

It makes my failures much more spectacular and hurts my head

This can be expressed by the equation - 'Epic Fail' + 'Sore Head' = Alcohol Binge
where
Epic Fail = ((Alcohol Binge + Freakin' Awesome Idea) / (I.Q. - Medical Insurance)) to the power 'n' where 'n' is the number of observers

That's a damn good equation! :D
The exponential in the equation troubles me though. Especially 'cos it represents the observers. That's bloody scary. ;) :D
If nobody's watching, then the epic failure comes down to 1.(good news).
But, anybody's watching, you're heading for trouble with that exponent. :D
Equation also suggests lowering alcohol binge helps with alleviating epic failures.
That can't be right! ;) I would argue for the opposite. ;)
I would reevaluate that equation if I'm you.
Particularly the placement of the alcohol binge is very offensive to me ;) :D

[dom14]

Your just over thinking it Dom.

The warning light in the dash has two reasons. One it lets the driver know if there's a problem with the alternator. Two it turns the alternator regulator on.

If something happens to the warning light bulb once the alternator is charging this will not affect the charging rate. The alternator/regulator will still charge at the correct rate until the engine is shut down.

If something happens to the sense circuit and it goes open circuit this will not bring on the warning light.

You need to stop looking at the diagram of the other alternator and comparing it with your GQ. They are different. That doesn't make one better then the other.

Thanx mate.
Yeah, I'm beginning to understand that using the above "typical alternator circuit" isn't always that useful to understand how my GQ alternator circuit is wired.

The reason I've been trying to understand how it works is that the idea it would help me to not make any mistakes. My brain is wired in a way, I can do accurate work with electrical circuitry by understanding the basic schematic of the system.

I do admit, I don't seem to have a good understanding of A/C circuitry, and the alternator being a one(three phase one as oppose to the single phase) adds more to the challenge.

I'm picturing the electricity as a flow(of electrons, energy or whatever) when it comes to understanding electrical circuitry, combined with the idea of potential difference between points in a circuitry. Then I get confused at times like with these alternator circuits as it doesn't always make sense to me how it avoid short circuiting itself(as with the alternator warning lamp circuit).

When the alternator isn't running, the warning lamp get grounded via the regulator. I understand that bit.
But, when the alternator's running, that "grounding"of the lamp circuit wire still happening(I'm assuming).
But, the problem is that the same wire is getting +12V(approx) via the diode trio. So, the potential at that point of the
wire where the diode trio positive & lamp wire meet change from +1.5v to +12v(approx) when the alternator's running.

How come that doesn't create a short circuit? I drew few progressively simpler diagrams below to indicate the problem in my head.

My only guess is that there MUST be some kinda of electronic switching happening inside the regulator to prevent that short circuit grounding of the diode trio's +12V via the regulator. That is actually a guess as I don't have a clear idea how the regulator internal circuitry work.

[Yendor]

I was unable to find a regulator circuit diagram so you will have to put up with my very basic modified drawing. Hope this helps.

When the ignition is turned on (engine not running) Current flows from the battery through the alternator warning light down to the alternator. It can't pass through the diode trio. It goes through the regulator and then the field coils back through the regulator and is switch to earth via transistor (T1).

So if we follow the voltage. The battery say has 12 volts. On the ignition switch side of the alternator warning light there is 12 volts. On the other side of the warning light we have your 1.5 volts (alternator warning lights is on, 10.5 volts is dropped across the bulb).

Down at the "L" terminal at the alternator we have 1.5 volts. Inside the alternator at one of the field connections we will also have 1.5 volts. The other side of the field connection will be about 0 volts because transistor T1 has switch to to earth.

The chip also receives the signal to get ready to start regulating.

The alternator warning light is used for 2 reasons.

1. It lets the driver know if there is a problem with the alternator.

2. It supplies a small amount of current to the fields so the alternator starts charging at a reduced rate (like a soft start).

[Yendor]

Once the engine is running and the alternator is charging we now have 14 volts at the B+ terminal at the alternator, 14 volts at the battery and 14 volts at the ignition switch side of the alternator warning light.

We also now have 14 volts at the Anode side of the diode trio as well as 14 volts on the Cathode side.

This also put 14 volts on the other side of the alternator warning light (14 volts either side of the bulb, warning light turns off)

The alternator field now has 14 volts (was only 1.5 volts) so the alternator can start charging at maximum rate now.

The chip inside the regulator senses the voltage reading on the sense wire "S" and controls power through the field coils via transistor T1

[Yendor]

I like to over think things as well.

Nah my head hurts when I do this lol

[Yendor]

That's a damn good equation! :D
The exponential in the equation troubles me though. Especially 'cos it represents the observers. That's bloody scary. ;) :D
If nobody's watching, then the epic failure comes down to 1.(good news).
But, anybody's watching, you're heading for trouble with that exponent. :D
Equation also suggests lowering alcohol binge helps with alleviating epic failures.
That can't be right! ;) I would argue for the opposite. ;)
I would reevaluate that equation if I'm you.
Particularly the placement of the alcohol binge is very offensive to me ;) :D

Haven't you heard the phrase "hold my beer and watch this" nothing bad has ever followed :)

[mudnut]

Excellent write-up.

[the evil twin]

Haven't you heard the phrase "hold my beer and watch this" nothing bad has ever followed :)

ROFLMAO

Many people miss that phrase... it gets drowned out by shouts of "Quick, get a Camera"

[mudnut]

This is a simplified graph of the three phase output of the alternator before both the main rectifying diodes and the diode trio. The windings and the rotor poles poles are positioned so that there is 120 degrees between each phase.

[mudnut]

This is a simplifed graph of the output from the diode trio. There is no return path for the negative half of the wave. This is used as the rotor poles don't need a real high current and is cheap to manufacture.

The slip rings allow a DC current to flow through the rotor and produce constant north and south poles. As the rotor turns its north and south poles cut each winding at different intervals thus producing the alternating output. AC.

[mudnut]

This is a simplified graph of the output of the alternator after the main rectifier. Note that the only path for the negative half of the waves is via the diodes so it becomes a positive voltage. The voltage you will actually see on an oscilloscope is a positive DC voltage with twice as many peaks or humps as the half wave rectifier. This configuration ensures there is maximum current output from each winding.

[dom14]

Nah my head hurts when I do this lol

All for a good cause. I just stopped asking questions.......... for now. :thumbup: :D

Thanx for the two diagrams mate. That alone explains everything perfectly.

Now, I can work on my "grand design" of a redundancy for the alternator warning lamp, so when or if the warning lamp cooks itself,
field coil would still get the tiny 1.5v to get the alternator going. ;) :D

Cheers
Dom

[mudnut]

You could always install an LED or a lower wattage globe and a ceramic resister of the right resistance and wattage in parallel. That way if the LED or lamp blows blows you will still have probably at least .75 volts available to kick start the system. Maybe just saying. It would take a while to get the combination of components right.

[dom14]

This is a simplified graph of the output of the alternator after the main rectifier. Note that the only path for the negative half of the waves is via the diodes so it becomes a positive voltage. The voltage you will actually see on an oscilloscope is a positive DC voltage with twice as many peaks or humps as the half wave rectifier. This configuration ensures there is maximum current output from each winding.

Yeah, it also kinda shows that the pulsed DC output that is produced by the bridge rectifier arrangement of three phase is smoother than the single phase bridge rectification.

[dom14]

You could always install an LED or a lower wattage globe and a ceramic resister of the right resistance and wattage in parallel. That way if the LED or lamp blows blows you will still have probably at least .75 volts available to kick start the system. Maybe just saying. It would take a while to get the combination of components right.

Yeah, I reckon I can measure the resistance of the warning lamp and do some calculations with the ohms law to approximate the right resistance of the parallel resistor & the LED/globe wattage.

Cheers

[Yendor]

Yeah, I reckon I can measure the resistance of the warning lamp and do some calculations with the ohms law to approximate the right resistance of the parallel resistor & the LED/globe wattage.

Cheers

Or you could just replace the bulb if it ever blows....

[mudnut]

Not hard to change a globe on a GQ.

I think an LED might be too sensitive and would glow at the drop of a hat and would get you wondering whats up.

A globe can have a fair bit of current flowing through it before it glows, and its resistance actually changes in proportion with the heat produced as more voltage is applied. That would have to be taken into account too.

[mudnut]

I would like to the whack the probes of my scopemeter across the brushes of a working alternator. It would be interesting to watch the voltages change with the load.

[dom14]

I would like to the whack the probes of my scopemeter across the brushes of a working alternator. It would be interesting to watch the voltages change with the load.

Not without a possible injury. ;)
What kinda scope have you got?
Do you have a link or something that I can see?

BTW, I just tried to imagine how much that I've learnt in a few days about the automotive charging system.
I almost feel "enlightened". :D
Imagine what would happen if I have the experience and the level of understanding you blokes have!!! ;) :D:cheers:

BTW, it's great you have a scope. The stuff you can do with that would be endless.

[Yendor]

I would like to the whack the probes of my scopemeter across the brushes of a working alternator. It would be interesting to watch the voltages change with the load.

That would be the only way to see exactly what is happening. A voltmeter would be way to slow at reading the values and only give an average reading.

[mudnut]

I have an Allsun scope which I bought from china. It looked a bit more rugged and repairable than the first one I bought. I accidentally spiked the first one and found it was all plastic welded and impossible to fix. It turned out I was right about the Allsun as the on/off switch was jiggered within a month. I used a switch off of a Sony walkman to fix it. Using the allsun is like using a pitchfork to eat spaghetti it is so agricultural. Wouldn't touch any of their products with a barge pole.

[dom14]

I have an Allsun scope which I bought from china. It looked a bit more rugged and repairable than the first one I bought. I accidentally spiked the first one and found it was all plastic welded and impossible to fix. It turned out I was right about the Allsun as the on/off switch was jiggered within a month. I used a switch off of a Sony walkman to fix it. Using the allsun is like using a pitchfork to eat spaghetti it is so agricultural. Wouldn't touch any of their products with a barge pole.

Ok, cool. If I've got the message, you're telling me to stay away from the brand you have??!!

Is this the one?
http://www.all-sun.com/en/d.aspx?pht=1184

[GeeYou8]

Having just ripped the dash out of the Excel I will be looking to fit an alternator light (& oil pressure light) on the starter box.
The Excel project is a speedway car for my 10 year old boy.
Graham

[mudnut]

Yup, Dom. Only get one If you are prepared to take the unit apart, strip the guts of both the on/off and ac/dc butto, then solder two similar style but heavier duty switches in parrallel to the pc board. It is unfortunate that they skimped on such vital components. I only did the one switch where as in hindsight I shoulda done both.

I also got a small shock from the multimeter leads while checking a 240v circuit with the scope probe. So they have to be removed when the scope is used.

[dom14]

Yup, Dom. Only get one If you are prepared to take the unit apart, strip the guts of both the on/off and ac/dc butto, then solder two similar style but heavier duty switches in parrallel to the pc board. It is unfortunate that they skimped on such vital components. I only did the one switch where as in hindsight I shoulda done both.

I also got a small shock from the multimeter leads while checking a 240v circuit with the scope probe. So they have to be removed when the scope is used.

By small shock, you mean you didn't get the full 240V shock which has the potential to kill you?!

[Throbbinhood]

I've had a quick read through this, and am happy to say it is all well above my head and I understood next to none of it.

One thing I didn't see mentioned though, and perhaps I missed it, but is there any difference between different alternators in the way they excite and regulate and the circuitry needed? I only ask because I believe Dom has upgraded to a 110/120amp EF Falcon alternator, and I'm not sure if it's been taken into account (or if it needs to be, or makes no difference perhaps). If it's been taken into account already or doesn't matter and I've missed it, my apologies.

[Yendor]

I've had a quick read through this, and am happy to say it is all well above my head and I understood next to none of it.

One thing I didn't see mentioned though, and perhaps I missed it, but is there any difference between different alternators in the way they excite and regulate and the circuitry needed? I only ask because I believe Dom has upgraded to a 110/120amp EF Falcon alternator, and I'm not sure if it's been taken into account (or if it needs to be, or makes no difference perhaps). If it's been taken into account already or doesn't matter and I've missed it, my apologies.

Yes it covers Dom upgrades. It basically covers the older style alternators with the two small wire connections "S" and "L". They all work in a similar way just what and how is done inside the regulator is different between manufactures. For example some switch positive to the field coils and other switch negative.

The later model alternators that are fitted to the Y62 and Navara's are different as they are also controlled by the engine computer.

[dom14]

Yes it covers Dom upgrades. It basically covers the older style alternators with the two small wire connections "S" and "L". They all work in a similar way just what and how is done inside the regulator is different between manufactures. For example some switch positive to the field coils and other switch negative.

The later model alternators that are fitted to the Y62 and Navara's are different as they are also controlled by the engine computer.

"Smart alternators" they call them, don't they? I reckon it's actually the ECU that does smart controlling. :)

[mudnut]

By small shock, you mean you didn't get the full 240V shock which has the potential to kill you?!

I really should've removed the leads anyway. The shock was via the 1 Megohm input resistor. The initial open circuit voltage was the full 240v. Since I closed the loop, it dropped rapidly so was non-lethal.

[dom14]

I really should've removed the leads anyway. The shock was via the 1 Megohm input resistor. The initial open circuit voltage was the full 240v. Since I closed the loop, it dropped rapidly so was non-lethal.

Compare that with my experience with mains electricity. I've been electrocuted countless times, lethal and non lethal, since I was a child and at least three times it was the brink of death experience. First time I managed to touch the live and neutral wires which kept cooking into my palm while I was trying to break free(don't ask what I was doing with open main electrical wires. :) ). Luckily the plug came out of the wall socket and I had a wire embedded in my palm. Second time from a TV. Third time from an old fluorescent desk lamp. That was few years back with a faulty lamp. I had hole burnt all the way into the bone on my middle finger. I was able to break free from the lamp by shoving my leg in between and pushing the lamp away.All those three lethal times the electricity managed to pass through the heart without stopping it.(But, must have bypassed the heart due to some luck). Those kid days are over and now I'm super careful. Especially, I'm super careful about poking my hands into the running engine. :)
And of course, I don't poke my hands into live electrical wires no more either.

[the evil twin]

snip... I've been electrocuted countless times, lethal and non lethal...

Hehehe, I know what you mean but... Lucky your a Hindu, others only get one shot of lethal electrocution

[taslucas]

It's not lethal if it doesn't kill ya!
And no one living has ever been electrocuted

>>>tappin from tassie

[dom14]

It's not lethal if it doesn't kill ya!
And no one living has ever been electrocuted

>>>tappin from tassie

Well......it was lethal. I went to the other side and came back. ;) :D
It would've been lethal, if that was you. I got some kinda "lucky" resistance to electricity. ;)

[dom14]

Lucky your a Hindu

I didn't know I am hindu Where's my turban?!! ;) :D

[the evil twin]

I didn't know I am hindu Where's my turban?!! ;) :D

If your not Hindu, you couldn't get reincarnated.
If you didn't get reincarnated your dead.
If you were dead and now your not then "Welcome back and I'm really sorry about all those Jesus Jokes but can you do anything about all them peados in the black robes?"... Hehehehe

[dom14]

If your not Hindu, you couldn't get reincarnated.
If you didn't get reincarnated your dead.
If you were dead and now your not then "Welcome back and I'm really sorry about all those Jesus Jokes but can you do anything about all them peados in the black robes?"... Hehehehe

Hmmmmm....... I'll talk to cardinal Pell and get back to ya on that. ;) :D

[Pricey102]

Gday had a search and found this did all of above. The back of my alternator is reading 11.6 when running. When car is not running but ignition on both wires on plug on back of alternator. (Red and white ) and other are reading 12 volts (or whatever battery is currently reading. Does this make any sense to anyone. Cheers in advance

[mudnut]

Something is stuffed. Is the light on before starting the vehicle and does it turn off when running?