How I fixed the exhaust leaks on manifold & flange surface

[dom14]

This is what I did to fix the broken stud and leaking surface of the exhaust manifold and Y pipe flange.

I also used high temperature copper sealant on manifold gasket even though it wasn't necessary as I sanded a surface
perfectly flat.

These pictures are self explanatory.

[dom14]

More photos

[dom14]

This is where I used sanding boards and a make shift sanding table to flat sand the flange surface and manifold surface.

BTW, make sure to wear a hankie over the nose or a mask. The iron dust starts flyng and you can end up breathing lot of it while sanding. I had black boogers coming out of my nose next day, I had to keep blowing my nose over and over in the shower. Also, it can make you feel bit sick.

[dom14]

Second lot of sanding pictures.

[dom14]

Third lot of sanding pictures.

[dom14]

Use new gaskets, or use a ceramic water based sealant between the two layers of the perforated metal gaskets, as well as both outer sides.

For exhaust manifold I used the old gasket as it was still in good condition due to my use of exhaust sealant on it last time.

High temperature copper sealant works fine with the exhaust manifold end gasket, but not on the exhaust flange(the temperature is way too high there).

For the flange, water based ceramic sealant like Maniseal is the only solution(if not a brand new gasket).

[LostBenji]

New manifold with turbo would have been on the cards if mine.

[dom14]

New manifold with turbo would have been on the cards if mine.

I wouldn't wanna go turbo without EFI conversion & bottom end rebuild or a low km bottom end(if I can find a one).

[LostBenji]

on the RB30?

[dom14]

on the RB30?

We're talking about RB30 Patrol, aren't we?!

[LostBenji]

I am assuming an RB30 looking at the manifold and your signature.....?


Anyway, RB30 has a pretty strong bottom end, heads are ordinary but workable but even better, Stronger guts are not hard to find considering the mass of VL Turbo A/M parts and the Skyline crowds. Make a strong bottom end, find an RB25DET head, modify the the two jacket ports and go nuts. There are plenty of A/M ECU mobs out there that will easily let the donk start and run on shipped tune.

I spose though, like everything Patrol, either Nissan skimped on shit and now will cost $$$ to make decent or you just start with a decent platform and enjoy it. Still needs $$ somewhere though.

[dom14]

I am assuming an RB30 looking at the manifold and your signature.....?


Anyway, RB30 has a pretty strong bottom end, heads are ordinary but workable but even better, Stronger guts are not hard to find considering the mass of VL Turbo A/M parts and the Skyline crowds. Make a strong bottom end, find an RB25DET head, modify the the two jacket ports and go nuts. There are plenty of A/M ECU mobs out there that will easily let the donk start and run on shipped tune.

I spose though, like everything Patrol, either Nissan skimped on shit and now will cost $$$ to make decent or you just start with a decent platform and enjoy it. Still needs $$ somewhere though.

Yeah, I like RB25DET head, being multivalve, it would give a really good boost without turbo, wouldn't it?!! Also would be good for LPG.
RB25 means getting a matching inlet and exhaust as well?!!
Standard VL intake & exhaust won't do, am I right?!

My stock RB30 Patrol motor has 330K+ on it now. It's got a fair bit of blow-by already.
That's why I'm bit concerned about high mileage RB30 turbos.
If it blows oil like this when naturally aspirated, then it would blow it like hell when turboed.

[LostBenji]

Any smaller motor like the RB30 in a bigger vehicle like a Pat should look at boosted induction to compensate for lack or power/torque needed to really move and control the weight.

The RB25DET head is almost a bolt-on option and the manifolds for them can be stolen off a Skyline or VL commo. The multi-valve will allow better breathing but also way high revs, all the way to 9K if your bottom end held.

A couple of options lay for you but the current and tired donk you have now is not one of them. Engine conversion is a good way to get more cubes along with a strong engine to start with. You will already know the common choices for conversions like the LS motors and the likes but you also can go the older V8's like the good old 5.0L out of the Holdens that produce great bottom end and a even better exhaust note. They respond well to PD blowers as well. Another option is in this field is to swap in a TB42 and do her up. Strong, straight 6 that also respond well to turbos and running straight gas would allow a good matching. Great power with still good economy when needed.

Otherwise, source another RB30 block and start a fresh build on it with all the trimmings, then do a swap at a time that suits you rather than being off the roads for weeks or months while you rebuild the sad one if it lets go.

[taslucas]

Wow, from fixing an exhaust leak to engine swapping a built turbo donk. That escalated quickly!

>>>tappin from tassie

[mudnut]

Any smaller motor like the RB30 in a bigger vehicle like a Pat should look at boosted induction to compensate for lack or power/torque needed to really move and control the weight.

The RB25DET head is almost a bolt-on option and the manifolds for them can be stolen off a Skyline or VL commo. The multi-valve will allow better breathing but also way high revs, all the way to 9K if your bottom end held.

A couple of options lay for you but the current and tired donk you have now is not one of them. Engine conversion is a good way to get more cubes along with a strong engine to start with. You will already know the common choices for conversions like the LS motors and the likes but you also can go the older V8's like the good old 5.0L out of the Holdens that produce great bottom end and a even better exhaust note. They respond well to PD blowers as well. Another option is in this field is to swap in a TB42 and do her up. Strong, straight 6 that also respond well to turbos and running straight gas would allow a good matching. Great power with still good economy when needed.

Otherwise, source another RB30 block and start a fresh build on it with all the trimmings, then do a swap at a time that suits you rather than being off the roads for weeks or months while you rebuild the sad one if it lets go.

I would like the extra grunt you gain from all that, but for simplicity. You are turning the vehicle into a racehorse, where a donkey will suffice. The gearboxes aren't that crash hot either. I like the idea of carrying a fuel pump motor and a carby in the back.

[dom14]

I would like the extra grunt you gain from all that, but for simplicity. You are turning the vehicle into a racehorse, where a donkey will suffice. The gearboxes aren't that crash hot either. I like the idea of carrying a fuel pump motor and a carby in the back.

Yeah, simplicity serves on long treks on isolated tracks. I carry a dizzy, ignition coil, leads, carby, starter, alternator, LPG converter, etc etc.
The only downside with RB30 stock engine is towing can be bit of a pain, depending on the weight of the van. Mine is a simple, lightweight old van, but still the troll struggles to tow it uphills.
You can't have everything though. Dual fuel is pretty handy to have. LPG is hard and expensive to come by in the outback.
So, having auxiliary LPG tanks hasn't always helped me. It's not that practical to make dual fuel turbo with an RB30(somebody correct me on that if I'm wrong). Even if you can, I don't think it can be done that cheaply.
I'm yet to see a dual fuel RB30 turbo! May be it's doable, but too expensive and fiddly?!!

I do get frustrated by the RB30 NA lack of power at times. Like in life, you can't have everything. It's either simplicity & reliability or trade that for more power.

[Throbbinhood]

Plus, I'd assume unless you put a spacer on the head to lower the comps a bit, you'd be limited to 98RON which can be hard to come by in some areas.

[dom14]

Plus, I'd assume unless you put a spacer on the head to lower the comps a bit, you'd be limited to 98RON which can be hard to come by in some areas.

Turbo RB30's use a slightly thicker head gasket, don't they?!

If I do the turbo conversion, I can't imagine doing it just for LPG( or petrol).
I prefer the choice dual fuel gives me.

[LostBenji]

Depends of the pistons used (rebuilt donk for grunt likely to have non-stock pistons) and the cylinder volume.

If you wan't a reliable Outbacker to carry spares, loose the RB30 and run a TB42 or V8 conversion.

[mudnut]

Running straight gas is what I have been advised by a good mechanic, that to get the real benefits of gas/turbo.

I will never have another vehicle that runs dual fuel, or one that's been converted to gas. The amount of times my family, friends and myself have been stranded because of
faulty workmanship, foreign matter in the gas, and wiring faults has put me off it.

[dom14]

Depends of the pistons used (rebuilt donk for grunt likely to have non-stock pistons) and the cylinder volume.

If you wan't a reliable Outbacker to carry spares, loose the RB30 and run a TB42 or V8 conversion.

Yeah, I've been told that.
It's not just the vehicle conversion, that means I need to convert as well. :D
I got used to the RB30 troll over the years and know a fair bit about it's quirks, it would be another long process to learn
about TB42, but of course it's just an excuse. I'm just being slack. :)

[dom14]

Running straight gas is what I have been advised by a good mechanic, that to get the real benefits of gas/turbo.

I will never have another vehicle that runs dual fuel, or one that's been converted to gas. The amount of times my family, friends and myself have been stranded because of
faulty workmanship, foreign matter in the gas, and wiring faults has put me off it.

I can't argue with that. I had my own issues with this troll and the LPG issues.
Just the economy I get from LPG is bit of an advantage on long trekking.

[Patrol'n]

I know what you mean about economy, mine when all loaded up and running at highway speeds isn't that economical... But i've had issues with LPG conversions in other cars, I won't go back to that myself.

I'm still trying to decide what to do about my engine, although mine doesn't use oil, have any blow by to notice, doesn't blow smoke or use any coolant, so I won't do anything just yet, plus I need to try and save some coin, I'm still trying to work out whether to go turbo RB30 or an LS conversion, or whether to just deal with the relative lack of power up hills on the highway and keep the super simple factory set up.

I love my truck overall, but I would also love to be able to get up hills with less effort, and more speed on the beach in soft sand would be nice too!

[dom14]

I can't honestly say whether I had LPG related issues more than other regular issues.
From memory, my last LPG issue was the LPG converter. Other than that, all the LPG related issues I had
were electrical. Bad earth, bad connections, deteriorated wires, etc.
Mostly due to sloppy electrical work. But, I've been able to sort out all those issues myself with
some good help from the forum members. I know far more about the LPG system of my RB30, than I
know about the petrol fuel system. I got bit of blow-by from the engine, but I don't think it's from LPG.