LostBenji
28th May 2016, 01:20 PM
So, here is another one of my little projects. After another thread where it was asked about removing the factory heat-shield, I thought about how I ditched it (was a little mongrelised after removal). So in the interests of getting engine bay temps down and maybe a tiny bit more efficiency, I went with putting on the "Turbo Beanie" and wrapping the exhaust.
This is the snail blanket I ordered on eBay to suit a T25 - GT35 snail for around the 40 odd clam delivered.
67073 . . . 67074
I also ordered two roles of 2-inch red fiberglass wrap for 35 buckeroonies at the same time. I was impressed the supplier also sent a pair of handling gloves (more in this shortly).
So, after much frustration, the blanket went on. Note it was a tight fit around the manifold and the bracket holding the VNT actuator which is not fouled by the nappy.
67075
So after a couple of hours pulling shit off to make room and the trial-n-error testing, I managed to get the bastard on. The easiest was was to fit the springs to the lower half then wrap/roll it around and and back up under the scroll of the turbine scroll. From here, long needle-nose pliers and a hook-tool, I was able to chase the spring back up near the turbo core and the exhaust manifold for the front side. The rear side was a lot easier and no tools needed here. So, off to bed after several washes due the bloody fiberglass in the booty.
In the morning, the next step was to wrap it. I was toying with idea of removing the dump pipe to make it easier then I remembered the joy of the badly placed nuts on the rear studs. Fark that! So, it was wrapped in-place. So what was needed was about 6 meters to wrap the dump pipe and the rest was used from first flanges tot he second set. I then used another half roll from the flex-joint flange to the rear muffler. So a roll and a half was what was needed. If don't run a rear muffler, then you could wrap all the rear to over the diff if keen. The ties that are usually supplied will not pull up real tight and I would suggest the use of stainless hose clamps to ensure a good clamping. I had enough to the dump pipe and lower first section but then ran out so fell back to the metal zip-ties. If the loosen, I will put clamps on.
67083 67084 67085 67086 67087 67088 67089
A lesson learned: If you are going to do this, do it when you upgrade the zorst, it would be a lot easier when not hung. Next issue, the glass, you will want/need a full body dust suit (the ones from Supercheap/Autobarn), dust mask and gloves. The reason is the wrap makes a lot of glass dust that will get everywhere, even in places you don't want to be scratching in public. I am now a red, itchy mess and will be for next couple of days.
This is the snail blanket I ordered on eBay to suit a T25 - GT35 snail for around the 40 odd clam delivered.
67073 . . . 67074
I also ordered two roles of 2-inch red fiberglass wrap for 35 buckeroonies at the same time. I was impressed the supplier also sent a pair of handling gloves (more in this shortly).
So, after much frustration, the blanket went on. Note it was a tight fit around the manifold and the bracket holding the VNT actuator which is not fouled by the nappy.
67075
So after a couple of hours pulling shit off to make room and the trial-n-error testing, I managed to get the bastard on. The easiest was was to fit the springs to the lower half then wrap/roll it around and and back up under the scroll of the turbine scroll. From here, long needle-nose pliers and a hook-tool, I was able to chase the spring back up near the turbo core and the exhaust manifold for the front side. The rear side was a lot easier and no tools needed here. So, off to bed after several washes due the bloody fiberglass in the booty.
In the morning, the next step was to wrap it. I was toying with idea of removing the dump pipe to make it easier then I remembered the joy of the badly placed nuts on the rear studs. Fark that! So, it was wrapped in-place. So what was needed was about 6 meters to wrap the dump pipe and the rest was used from first flanges tot he second set. I then used another half roll from the flex-joint flange to the rear muffler. So a roll and a half was what was needed. If don't run a rear muffler, then you could wrap all the rear to over the diff if keen. The ties that are usually supplied will not pull up real tight and I would suggest the use of stainless hose clamps to ensure a good clamping. I had enough to the dump pipe and lower first section but then ran out so fell back to the metal zip-ties. If the loosen, I will put clamps on.
67083 67084 67085 67086 67087 67088 67089
A lesson learned: If you are going to do this, do it when you upgrade the zorst, it would be a lot easier when not hung. Next issue, the glass, you will want/need a full body dust suit (the ones from Supercheap/Autobarn), dust mask and gloves. The reason is the wrap makes a lot of glass dust that will get everywhere, even in places you don't want to be scratching in public. I am now a red, itchy mess and will be for next couple of days.