LostBenji
18th May 2016, 07:56 AM
So here is my little rundown on the daily drive.
The basics:
2004 GU ST-L Wagon
ZD30 (270K+ on the dial)
5 speed man.
32.5" Michy boots
The Under-Bonnet Mods:
K&N filter
Molded Silicon Induction tube (Air-box to Turbo)
ProVent 200 Oil catch can
Dawes Valve set at 17PSI
Bleed Valve mounted in cabin just under handbrake lever
3" Turbo back Exhaust - Stainless muffler, No CAT - No anoying drone!
EGR blocked
Boost & Pyro gauges
Extras:
UHF Radio (Uniden POS, Simoco or Icom on way)
Factory Steel winch bar
RFI CDQ5000 & CDQ2195 antennas plus FM band whip on bar
2x 7" 100W HID spot lights
1x 100W Spot/flood LED light-bar (on top of bar)
2" lift coils
2" lift Dobinson Shocks
Return to Center Dampener
Whats on-way or planned mods:
16V 500F capacitor unit (Maxwell) to augment a large, single deep-cycle battery
Boost controlled VNT actuator (Vacuum + Dawes + Bleed valve going)
Simoco or Icom radios, PLANNED
Larger, fan forced intercooler, PLANNED
Rebuild of another ZD30 with stronger guts, PLANNED
35" Boots when others are due to be replaced, PLANNED
Water-Meth injection, Post Turbo, PLANNED
Clean out entire induction system tract, PLANNED
ECU mods, way-off planning there
Taller 5th gear, POSSIBLE
So, the GU is no virgin, but she hands out a spanking when needed. The beast will happily sit in 5th gear @ 50+Kph and be able to pull all the way to 120Kph. Usable boost is @ 1000RPM, 12PSI @ 1500RPM, full boost 19PSI @ 1750RPM (I know what I said about the Dawes setting of 17PSI).
I get around 10.5L / 100 and EGT's sit on 190°-210° town driving and 280°-300° on highway @ 100-110Kph. EGT's rise to 460° when pushing up 10% grade with full tanks, tools in back while still holding 100+Kph.
The Ultra-capacitor will be mounted on passenger side (where second battery normally goes) and be connected to main battery via 2-guage cables with 500A fuse. These suckers can dump Mega-Amps of current in milliseconds (hence fuse). This will enable the vehicle to have instant current with little or no sag while allowing me to swap the cranking battery for a Deep-Cycle battery.
The biggest Bitch: The crappy diff-gears. I need shorter gears or a taller 5th (considering it too). 35's will help here soon. Make no mistake, this ride is my daily drive where I do a lot of highway work. Very little 4WD action until I get a project car.
66814668136681266810668116681566816
The basics:
2004 GU ST-L Wagon
ZD30 (270K+ on the dial)
5 speed man.
32.5" Michy boots
The Under-Bonnet Mods:
K&N filter
Molded Silicon Induction tube (Air-box to Turbo)
ProVent 200 Oil catch can
Dawes Valve set at 17PSI
Bleed Valve mounted in cabin just under handbrake lever
3" Turbo back Exhaust - Stainless muffler, No CAT - No anoying drone!
EGR blocked
Boost & Pyro gauges
Extras:
UHF Radio (Uniden POS, Simoco or Icom on way)
Factory Steel winch bar
RFI CDQ5000 & CDQ2195 antennas plus FM band whip on bar
2x 7" 100W HID spot lights
1x 100W Spot/flood LED light-bar (on top of bar)
2" lift coils
2" lift Dobinson Shocks
Return to Center Dampener
Whats on-way or planned mods:
16V 500F capacitor unit (Maxwell) to augment a large, single deep-cycle battery
Boost controlled VNT actuator (Vacuum + Dawes + Bleed valve going)
Simoco or Icom radios, PLANNED
Larger, fan forced intercooler, PLANNED
Rebuild of another ZD30 with stronger guts, PLANNED
35" Boots when others are due to be replaced, PLANNED
Water-Meth injection, Post Turbo, PLANNED
Clean out entire induction system tract, PLANNED
ECU mods, way-off planning there
Taller 5th gear, POSSIBLE
So, the GU is no virgin, but she hands out a spanking when needed. The beast will happily sit in 5th gear @ 50+Kph and be able to pull all the way to 120Kph. Usable boost is @ 1000RPM, 12PSI @ 1500RPM, full boost 19PSI @ 1750RPM (I know what I said about the Dawes setting of 17PSI).
I get around 10.5L / 100 and EGT's sit on 190°-210° town driving and 280°-300° on highway @ 100-110Kph. EGT's rise to 460° when pushing up 10% grade with full tanks, tools in back while still holding 100+Kph.
The Ultra-capacitor will be mounted on passenger side (where second battery normally goes) and be connected to main battery via 2-guage cables with 500A fuse. These suckers can dump Mega-Amps of current in milliseconds (hence fuse). This will enable the vehicle to have instant current with little or no sag while allowing me to swap the cranking battery for a Deep-Cycle battery.
The biggest Bitch: The crappy diff-gears. I need shorter gears or a taller 5th (considering it too). 35's will help here soon. Make no mistake, this ride is my daily drive where I do a lot of highway work. Very little 4WD action until I get a project car.
66814668136681266810668116681566816