Belt Tensioner Assembly (CRD)

[TPC]

I know there are plenty of threads about belt tensioners but there is some advising to use aftermarket and some say to use genuine.
I am assuming mine is stuffed as I have a high pitch squeal coming from that area on idle that disappears when I accelerate so am planning to change it.

Who has changed one on a CRD and what did they use, genuine or aftermarket and where is the best place to buy?

Being mechanically challenged should I change it myself or leave it to a mechanic?

[Hodge]

I had aftermarket fitted and it shit it's self 4 weeks after left me stranded for the weekend. Fitted genuine and it lasted 2 years and many water crossing etc no dramas. Just my experience .

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[the evil twin]

I went genuine, no dramas.

[growler2058]

I went genuine and genuine belt.

[threedogs]

I had a similar noise that went away with some revs ended up being the alternator clutch pulley.
Just saying

[ova50]

I replaced mine using a aftermarket one, was on there for maybe a year and didn't have any issues.
:cheers:

[TPC]

I had a similar noise that went away with some revs ended up being the alternator clutch pulley.
Just saying

TD did you replace that?
If so what sort of $ was it and did you do it yourself?

I am not certain it is the tensioner, could be coming from the alternator.

[TPC]

Looks like the general conscientious is go genuine.

[threedogs]

Ended up snapping the alternator shaft on the way home from the Murray
Replaced with an OE alternator.
The noise was ever so slight you wouldnt think twice about it.
BUT 100ks later,, it went

[MudRunnerTD]

This part sh1t itself in the Simpson on the Mmetup in the Middle on Roofy"s DI and he had to pay Top$$$$ for a new one in Birdsville. Put a dampener on things a little. We were all spewing.

[Sir Roofy]

This part sh1t itself in the Simpson on the Mmetup in the Middle on Roofy"s DI and he had to pay Top$$$$ for a new one in Birdsville. Put a dampener on things a little. We were all spewing.

It did but not this time I got 3 of them plus belts & hoses

[mudski]

Oem tensioners are the way to go. Then either buy an aftermarket one as a spare and chuck in under the pax seat or rebuilt the old one.
This will stop your car from going anywhere as Darren mentioned. I always kept a spare on me the while time. Use an OEM belt or a Gates belt when changing it too.
The bearing used in the oem tensioners you cannot buy. The are a special double row ball bearing. All the bearings available at the bearing shops arent. The right size though but not double row.

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[Rossko07]

Is a genuine pulley only available to purchase or with a kit only? Have only tried to source one online with nothing.

[TPC]

Is a genuine pulley only available to purchase or with a kit only? Have only tried to source one online with nothing.

I could not find the pulley only so have bought pulley and tensioner on eBay from this mob.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Engine-Drive-Fan-Belt-Tensioner-ZD30-GU-Y61-CRD-Diesel-3-0L-2007onwards-/121561749028?hash=item1c4da51624:g:mKkAAOSwd0BV1ZE U

[Rossko07]

I could not find the pulley only so have bought pulley and tensioner on eBay from this mob.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Engine-Drive-Fan-Belt-Tensioner-ZD30-GU-Y61-CRD-Diesel-3-0L-2007onwards-/121561749028?hash=item1c4da51624:g:mKkAAOSwd0BV1ZE U

Yeah thanks. I have had to do a repair on my tensioner bracket mount and have used a non genuine complete set to get me by. I did also spot this on eBay but was hoping both tensioner and pulley might be available separately as genuine parts.

[BigRAWesty]

I had aftermarket fitted and it shit it's self 4 weeks after left me stranded for the weekend. Fitted genuine and it lasted 2 years and many water crossing etc no dramas. Just my experience .

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Out of curiosity was it the bearing that wend or the bushes on the tensioner?

[BigRAWesty]

I could not find the pulley only so have bought pulley and tensioner on eBay from this mob.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Engine-Drive-Fan-Belt-Tensioner-ZD30-GU-Y61-CRD-Diesel-3-0L-2007onwards-/121561749028?hash=item1c4da51624:g:mKkAAOSwd0BV1ZE U
I've bought that one..
Bearing is an nks bearing which imo should be good..
But the bushes are shoit.
I'm serious looking at making some..
Maybe even a tensioner change over setup.. you give me your shagged one and I'll give you a rebuilt one with quality parts..

[Hodge]

Out of curiosity was it the bearing that wend or the bushes on the tensioner?
The bearings flogged out . I still have the part at home I'll take some pics later can clearly see its gone to shit.

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[BigRAWesty]

The bearings flogged out . I still have the part at home I'll take some pics later can clearly see its gone to shit.

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How did the tensioner bushes go?

[nissannewby]

The above linked part number is $155.54 from dubai. I wonder how much shipping would be.

[Sir Roofy]

I've bought that one..
Bearing is an nks bearing which imo should be good..
But the bushes are shoit.
I'm serious looking at making some..
Maybe even a tensioner change over setup.. you give me your shagged one and I'll give you a rebuilt one with quality parts..

Sounds like a plan what about this bearing ntn wc-87503 ive used it a few times in a rebuild
if the body is ok bolt holes not worn little shocker ok for $30 for the bearing go for it
at the moment I'm running a $50 jobbie of e bay seems ok so far time will tell
you can also get the pully from auto barn $70 not sure about the price but you can get them
plus a torx tool

[BigRAWesty]

Sounds like a plan what about this bearing ntn wc-87503 ive used it a few times in a rebuild
if the body is ok bolt holes not worn little shocker ok for $30 for the bearing go for it
at the moment I'm running a $50 jobbie of e bay seems ok so far time will tell
you can also get the pully from auto barn $70 not sure about the price but you can get them
plus a torx tool
Yep I can get that bearing.. and was going to rebuild my factory one..

[TPC]

Does anybody know what torque the pivot bolt should be tightened to?

[Sir Roofy]

Does anybody know what torque the pivot bolt should be tightened to?

I just do it up till tight but if your fussy its 68-77 nm
tensioner retaining bolt 25-28

[BigRAWesty]

The above linked part number is $155.54 from dubai. I wonder how much shipping would be.
Is that genuine from Dubai?

[threedogs]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111995440150?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
This was the replacement bearing I was told of.

[Cuppa]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111995440150?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
This was the replacement bearing I was told of.

Description says single row ball bearing & pic shows double row roller bearing?????

[Softy]

I just do it up till tight but if your fussy its 68-77 nm
tensioner retaining bolt 25-28

Same here i do it by feel... Apparently if over tightened it can stop it from pivoting but i have never had an issue.

[Sir Roofy]

Same here i do it by feel... Apparently if over tightened it can stop it from pivoting but i have never had an issue.

No issue here either easy job but one you don't need on a trip

[Sir Roofy]

Description says single row ball bearing & pic shows double row roller bearing?????

Took his glasses of and miss printed it

[TPC]

I have changed it over and the noise is still there god damn it. :(

Will get a mechanic to look at it now, may be what Threedogs said, the alternator clutch pulley.

[BigRAWesty]

I have changed it over and the noise is still there god damn it. :(

Will get a mechanic to look at it now, may be what Threedogs said, the alternator clutch pulley.

I'd say that's quite possible..
But could also be the ac compressor..
They are common too seeing they are quite low down..

[growler2058]

I have changed it over and the noise is still there god damn it. :(

Will get a mechanic to look at it now, may be what Threedogs said, the alternator clutch pulley.

Same i feel your pain

[Sir Roofy]

I have changed it over and the noise is still there god damn it. :(

Will get a mechanic to look at it now, may be what Threedogs said, the alternator clutch pulley.

Maybe the belt is it after market or ome tip some water on it while running just a drop or 2 if it
stops change the belt

[TPC]

Maybe the belt is it after market or ome tip some water on it while running just a drop or 2 if it
stops change the belt

That was my first thought but the belt is genuine and I did try giving it a squirt when I first heard the noise and it made no difference.

[Sir Roofy]

That was my first thought but the belt is genuine and I did try giving it a squirt when I first heard the noise and it made no difference.

Did the tensioner move freely when you put the belt on
or did you need to pry the belt on as if to tight if so
back the tensioner bolt of a tad to allow it to move freely

[mudski]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111995440150?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?campid=5336709507&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F705-53470-19255-0%2F1%3Fcampid%3D5336709507%26amp%3Btoolid%3D10001 %26amp%3Bmpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com.au %252Fitm%252F111995440150%253F_trksid%253Dp2060353 .m1438.l2661%2526amp%253BssPageName%253DSTRK%25253 AMEBIDX%25253AIT)
This was the replacement bearing I was told of.

That bearing is single row. The bearing in the OEM unit is double row. Made for high speed applications such as a tensioner.
The OEM bearing size is 40mm OD x 17mm ID x 14mm wide...
Here is some of the options

62032RS 40 x 17 x 12 2 Rubber seals on the bearing cage, single Row, or
WC85703 40 x 17 x 14.3 Metal seals on the bearing cage, single row, or
LR5003-2RS 40 x 17 x 14, but the track of the bearing is slightly ball shaped, so not dead flat. 2 rubber seals, double row, or
622032RS 40 x 17 x 16, 2 x rubber seals, single row.

All the aftermarket tensioners just use the first option. Thats why they fail so fast.
These are for the direct injection tensioners. Not sure about the CRD. But I believe its the same, just a smaller OD pulley wheel.

[TPC]

Did the tensioner move freely when you put the belt on
or did you need to pry the belt on as if to tight if so
back the tensioner bolt of a tad to allow it to move freely

The tensioner moved freely when I put it on, I am confident nothing is too tight.

[Sir Roofy]

The tensioner moved freely when I put it on, I am confident nothing is too tight.

Have got a spare belt id try that first if not it will be the alternator

[mudski]

I could not find the pulley only so have bought pulley and tensioner on eBay from this mob.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Engine-Drive-Fan-Belt-Tensioner-ZD30-GU-Y61-CRD-Diesel-3-0L-2007onwards-/121561749028?hash=item1c4da51624:g:mKkAAOSwd0BV1ZE U

New belt too? Or just the tensioner?

[TPC]

Have got a spare belt id try that first if not it will be the alternator


New belt too? Or just the tensioner?

I did not replace the belt as this was replaced recently with a genuine one and it looks new still.

[Sir Roofy]

I did not replace the belt as this was replaced recently with a genuine one and it looks new still.

Id try another another one first

[mudski]

Take the belt off and spin the a/c idler pulley and also the alternator pulley. They should spin nice. My guess the a/c pulley will be a bit on the rough side, they always are.

[jay see]

Take the belt off and spin the a/c idler pulley and also the alternator pulley. They should spin nice. My guess the a/c pulley will be a bit on the rough side, they always are.
My a/c one sh!t itself. Easy enough to just replace the bearing, if that's the problem.

Sent from my XT1033

[BigRAWesty]

My a/c one sh!t itself. Easy enough to just replace the bearing, if that's the problem.

Sent from my XT1033
How hard of a job?? I've read they can be a biatch..

[jay see]

I found a write-up somewhere, I dig it up later tonight when I'm on the computer

Not hard at all.

Sent from my XT1033

[jay see]

bigguwesty This is taken form the other patrol forum.Pretty much the way I did mine. I had it apart to replace the timing case seal at the same time.

1- remove belt
2- remove radiator shroud
3- buy three 5x35mm cap head screws from bunnings or hardware shop to use as jacking screws to remove coverplate. screw jacking screws in a short way then with a screw driver between screws to stop pully turning undo the pully retaining bolt(13 or 14 mm socket) then screw jacking bolts in evenly until its off.
4-with a 3 legged bearing puller remove pully
5- remove bearing

Job is easy, be very careful there is three small shims/washers behind the pulley retaining bolt. Don't loose those.
Bearings are cheap and readily available at bearing supply shops
Good luck

I do recall there is a circlip that needs to be removed as well.
__________________

[BigRAWesty]

bigguwesty This is taken form the other patrol forum.Pretty much the way I did mine. I had it apart to replace the timing case seal at the same time.

1- remove belt
2- remove radiator shroud
3- buy three 5x35mm cap head screws from bunnings or hardware shop to use as jacking screws to remove coverplate. screw jacking screws in a short way then with a screw driver between screws to stop pully turning undo the pully retaining bolt(13 or 14 mm socket) then screw jacking bolts in evenly until its off.
4-with a 3 legged bearing puller remove pully
5- remove bearing

Job is easy, be very careful there is three small shims/washers behind the pulley retaining bolt. Don't loose those.
Bearings are cheap and readily available at bearing supply shops
Good luck

I do recall there is a circlip that needs to be removed as well.
__________________
Sweet.. I might do both for good measure..

[mudski]

From memory when doing my a/c the bearing wasn't real cheap. It was around 30odd dollars. But not too dear at the same time. If the bearing has never been changed before there will be like folded tabs over the bearing from the pulley. The pulley also flexes too when removing and refitting the bearing. So make sure when it flexes the centre of the pulley is in the same positionas it was when it came off the compressor.
If it doesn't, the pulley will be out of alignment with all the other pulleys.

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[Rossko07]

Does anyone else feel that the torque setting for the tensioner BRACKET ie the large pivot bolt on the bracket, is set too tight?

I am worried about it seizing but don't want the bolt to come out either if it's too loose.

[Apples]

Hi all i just replaced my idler pulley and tenioner with new belt. As mine shit itself on tuesday. Got it back today no engine light on when i picked it up. About 20 or so minutes later engine light came on and stays on. Anyone got any idea what could be wrong.