Can i get a mechanical injector pump for 4.2gq

[landy96]

I want a gq without a computer system either petrol or diesel is it possible to buy an injector pump without the electrics .prefer if i could get one to fit my current zd30 so i dont have to swap it for a gq

[Winnie]

A TD42 injector pump from a GQ is totally mechanical with no computers or fancy electrical gizmos.
I can't imagine getting it to work for your ZD30 though.

[nissannewby]

All 4.2 diesel gq are mechanical. So are all gu td42s.

A zd30 pump is even mechanical....

[landy96]

Isnt Zd30 controlled by the computer whats all the wireing coming out of it . And cant the computer make it pump more fuel in making the engine run hotter ?

[nissannewby]

The pump is still mechanical with some basic electronic functions on it. It will basically only control fuel metering by reference to ecu inputs. Some of those wires are also for the nats (anti theft).

You would have to have significant issues with egt control, power and smoke to be causing water temperatures to rise.

[landy96]

As soon as temp starts to move i stop quickly to let it cool i havnt gone over 3/4 yet

[landy96]

Can these wires be bypassed

[nissannewby]

No. And like the other thread I dont think this is your problem. Happy to be proven wrong.

If it was fuel causing your issues then you would have the problems I stated in post #5.

Possibly you have already made your mind up about what to do with the vehicle and you are hoping for an answer that you want to hear? If this is the case then move the vehicle on and buy a TD42 GQ wagon (which wont be a ti or auto), with no electronics.

[landy96]

So if theres no smoke theres no extra fuel
So if its not fuel what else might cause it to jump up so quickly .im talking 100 200metres up the range .its not gradual Like a mechanical thing its more instant like a switch going on.Weather i keep it or sell it i have to fix it .

[Robo]

So your having over temp issues and trying to problem solve?.

[landy96]

Yes but i should have kept all the info in one thread its getting to much for me to keep track of getting confused and flustered

[Bigcol]

All 4.2 diesel gq are mechanical. So are all gu td42s.

A zd30 pump is even mechanical....


series III went to electronic Injector Pump - when they added the turbo to them

[the evil twin]

So if theres no smoke theres no extra fuel
So if its not fuel what else might cause it to jump up so quickly .im talking 100 200metres up the range .its not gradual Like a mechanical thing its more instant like a switch going on.Weather i keep it or sell it i have to fix it .

That sounds more like a sender unit or possibly the gauge.

There is no way the 'actual' coolant temp is changing 'like a switch'.
There is too much mass involved IE it is a big heat soak and it all has to be heated.

If it is overfuelling heaps then there will be a lot of black smoke out the pipe

[nissannewby]

series III went to electronic Injector Pump - when they added the turbo to them

Its not really fully electronic. There is a very tiny portion of the pump which is altered with electronics. The internal timing is altered using a solenoid and a pulse signal which moves the timing piston. Even then the solenoid is only opening a passage allowing the internal pressure to do the work. On a full mechanical this is done with pressure.

The rest of the pump is still mechanical, the injectors are also still mechanical. The pump will still work as required without the solenoid plugged in.

Even a common rail still has a mechanical pump. This is regulated at the fuel rail and sometimes also with a suction control valve.

The regulation is electronically controlled and so is the injection event. Just like an efi petrol but at much higher pressure.

[landy96]

Its not the gauge cause thats what happened when it blew up
Just before the top of the range after letting it cool at the last pullover spot the temp jumped really fast to 3/4 and i stopped in a cloud of smoke and it ran like crap and sounded terible being in a dangerous spot i crept to the top and stopped giving it half an hour to cool i checked the oil and water it took heaps of both water was not in the oil though assuming motor stuffed we crept home rad cap loose ..
Next day had to move it under a tree for repairs ..
Loud banging noise trying to start after starting went to move and a louder bang coming to a sudden stop .shes stuffed..
Problem is the temp jumped realy fast but i had stopped quickly and it only went to 3/4 when it blew so whatever caused this is still here in the new motor ..
So has it got to be in the parts that has gone back on this new motor ????

[the evil twin]

Well beats me then... has the Cooling system been burped?

Only thing that I can even think of that would do anything like those symptoms IE an extremely rapid rise in temp is steam

[landy96]

So whats burped .bled i assume . I keep checking and topping up waterthe next couple days if it needs it after mucking with water.

Steam ah ..warming and cooling 3 or 4 times up the hill ????after that is when the temp jumps

[the evil twin]

'Burped' is parking the beast nose high (even on ramps will do) and run the engine with the cap off the rad.

RE the second part of your post... are you losing coolant?

[landy96]

No not loosing any coolant ... which wày would you go with the needle and dawes to make egt lower .. i now it wuoldnt be much but it might help

[the evil twin]

No not loosing any coolant ... which wày would you go with the needle and dawes to make egt lower .. i now it wuoldnt be much but it might help

I wouldn't fit a Needle and Dawes to a Prado but then I had a CRD... the guys that have them on Di's will know and Mudski is a guru if you want to PM someone

[Robo]

Is it possible when it has gotten hot at some stage, that any scale from within the block has loosened up, thus blocking up your radiator somewhat.
Just putting it out there as one of many possibilities.

[Bigcol]

Is it possible when it has gotten hot at some stage, that any scale from within the block has loosened up, thus blocking up your radiator somewhat.
Just putting it out there as one of many possibilities.

in his other thread about this over heating, he has said he put a new radiator & 3 thermo fans

[Robo]

in his other thread about this over heating, he has said he put a new radiator & 3 thermo fans

So this radiator should be ok then.
Humm ok try this,
when I recently did my injector pump upgrade, turbo and injectors the mechanic that fitted the pump and tuned it mentioned to me off the cuff about how he blocks off the thermostat bypass port and fitting a standard type thermostat instead.

and I quote him " Its to solve the td overheating issues ".
He taps the port and fits a plug in it to seal the port off permanently.
Maybe that can sort it. cheers.

[landy96]

New radiator had rad sock fitted at same time.

So i need details and photos on blocking of the thermo bypass does anybody in brisbane do this or can i do it myself

somebody said i can leave the solenoid disconected from injector pump
Do i just unplug the injector pump??

[nissannewby]

What is a rad sock?

Do not touch anything on the injector pump!!

[jay see]

Pretty sure a rad sock is a radiator sock. It's used to restrict flow. Think it sits on the top tank. My brothers big block chev had one when he brought it. Don't really understand the purpose behind it.

Sent from my XT1033

[nissannewby]

Pretty sure a rad sock is a radiator sock. It's used to restrict flow. Think it sits on the top tank. My brothers big block chev had one when he brought it. Don't really understand the purpose behind it.

Sent from my XT1033

If this is the case it wont be helping the issue. A stupid big 4 core radiator with 3 thermos on it and a rad sock. Its no wonder it is struggling.

[BigRAWesty]

Ok not to step on any toes here but imo there are 2 options..
You've either fitted a second hand motor that's close to pulling the pin already..

Or

You've over done everything so much it's now hindering itself..
And the very conservative 500 egt max probably isn't helping..

Again I think what was posted in the other thread is spot on..
You've made up your mind now fishing for the answer you wanna hear..

Imo strip off 2 of the 3 fans and fit the mechanical one back in..
Nissan only fit 1 fan and that's as a back up and to assist the ac condenser when on..

Keep the boost set to 18psi as yes they run better slightly higher (disregard my other post in the other thread as I thought for some reason you had a crd)

Get an aftermarket water temp gauge fitted as the factory ones are at best a rough guide..
80-90 degrees is quite normal.
100 is getting up there and should back off..
110 pull over..

Same with egt's
450-550 quite normal
600-650 back off
700 pull over..

If you've fitted a quality radiator, have boost set to a nice level (which you have), water pump and system is all in check then you shouldn't have an issue..

I guess one question I don't think has been asked is how are you tackling this hill??
It sounds big..
But are you sinking the boot to the floor in 5th or are you dropping back to 4th and cruzing up at less throttle?

You gotta remeber there only a small engine hauling near 3T and bigger tyres and roof racks etc only make it worse..

[the evil twin]

Pretty much agree with what they said ^^^^

Take out the Rad Sock and turf it as far as you can off the top of the range.

The 'factory' cooling set up, assuming no faulty components, on the ZD30's is good out of the box... thousands of them pull grey nomads and their vans all around the country so Thermo Fans etc aren't the answer IMHO.

The TD42 and ZD30 cooling systems are as different as chalk and cheese.
Don't go by any comparisons or fixes on one as they don't apply to the other

[BigRAWesty]

Out of curiosity wtf is a rad sock?

[landy96]

Original motor stock standard was running hot and getting hotter up the range .. bang ..the replacement motor did the exact same thing stock standard thats why i changed every thing ...?
Second hand motor bought .claimed to have been recond done 25000ks sat for a time and looked yuk inside from old radiator water .that is what a radiator sock is for to stop any shale or crud blocking the radiator . Have always used them 40 years same as my father never had a broblem just clean and replace them when required .usually 12months with new fluid .

I go up the range very conservative light footed 60 ks max usually 40ks .this is not in the heat of the day. I travel up very early morning or at night .
I luv our gu its set up is right for us . we dont realy want to go back to a gq . I am even considering buying a donor gq for a replacement 4.2 motor with all the parts needed for a change over but i dont have the funds for that option either.i have not made up my mind at all .. im old school and i have always set up my 4x4s to handle hot weather easily

[Touses]

Apart from a passing remark from Robo i haven't seen the word thermostat mentioned.

What're the odds?

[nissannewby]

Apart from a passing remark from Robo i haven't seen the word thermostat mentioned.

What're the odds?

It has. Been replaced apparently.

[BigRAWesty]

Apart from a passing remark from Robo i haven't seen the word thermostat mentioned.

What're the odds?
Yea multiple threads going..

[Robo]

Apart from a passing remark from Robo i haven't seen the word thermostat mentioned.

What're the odds?

Read this tread from the start, didn't realize or simply missed there was a 'separate thread" on the same subject.

These engines have been designed for std coupling fans, not thermo fans, so x3 on that, ditch em.
Yep for the hwy towing you do, std type arrangement should do the job .
Yes people run thermos but that's generally 4x4's slugging alone tracks etc with no wind speed coming through the front grill, on the black top that's not the case.
You can up grad the radiator, no probs, this will give you a larger level of cooling capacity, reserve more efficient etc not necessarily solve a problem.

Question ,do you have something like a bug screen on the front blocking air flow?.
Are you running additional spot lights? how many?
Do you have fitted the extra wide mud flaps on the back, these can contribute to poor air flow exit under a car, thus in turn reduces what can come into the front end.

And the sock it's restricting flow through the rad for sure.
Have you removed the thermostat also, wrong move there if so.
Dads car was probably running a fixed direct drive fan?, with max air flow, regardless of car speed, so this may explain the dif there.
so many possibilities given the list of potential causes here I agree get back to standard type setup.

comes off a little blunt, most certainly Not talking down, intentions are only to help ya mate.

[Touses]

It has. Been replaced apparently.

Perhaps the other thread, can't see it here.

Even so there has been endless suggestions that a new thermostat be tested. Was it done?

[the evil twin]

Out of curiosity wtf is a rad sock?

1. A really cool Sock what all your hipster mates look at when you wear it and say, "Whoa, what a rad sock man"

2. A filter you put in the top radiator hose (usually) to catch shit before it blocks up your Radiator cores

3. A really shit idea that restricts coolant flow thru your cooling system

[landy96]

I tried it all standard and it got to hot at low speed under 40 kph going up range gets hotter faster at 60 kph thats why i went thermo fans for low speed hill climbing towing 8x5 trailer .it doesnt get hot on the highway towing trailer. It will be used for slow sloging towing trailer through tracks up north for holidays ..1 roofrack 1 light bar no mud flaps standard 32 inch tyres .
Tried three thermostats so far all tested and opened...that was first change from standard..then tried bigger radiator no change .. then went thermo fans still no change . Before going bush i fitted a very course high flow bug mesh . no change . I really do appreciate all the suggestions and help offered . Burping sounds good . Also curious about the suggestion of block the bypass for thermostat . Sorry for to many threads. Can anybody fix that.

[the evil twin]

AFAIK blocking the thermostat bypass is an old school thing for a different cooling circuit...
Doing it/trying it on a ZD30 might prove pretty spectacular.

I haven't seen it done but thats because cooling isn't nearly the issue with ZD30's that it is with TD42's
Maybe someone has done it and can post up...

[landy96]

Sorry whats an( afaik )
Like to hear about the blockoff ?anybody

[Hodge]

Sorry whats an( afaik )

As far as I know

[Bigcol]

simple suggestion to a complicated question

strip all the extra crap off
take the cooling system back to standard
standard Thermostat (starts to open when it should, be completely open when it should)
new Fan & Viscous hub
remove your sock - they are for feet - or 1950's cars, not modern motors
use Nissan Coolant - NOTHING else

then take it to a Diesel Mechanic and get it dyno tuned

if the pump timing is out - your wasting time ginning around with possible maybe this or maybe that

also

instead of passing small amounts if information every now and again with your posts in 2 threads

start the story, and write it all completely, so we CAN help


sorry if I sound rude - but this is annoying trying to help with little bits or NO information
like trying to draw teeth out, and I am not a Dentist

PLEASE

[Robo]

AFAIK blocking the thermostat bypass is an old school thing for a different cooling circuit...
Doing it/trying it on a ZD30 might prove pretty spectacular.

I haven't seen it done but thats because cooling isn't nearly the issue with ZD30's that it is with TD42's
Maybe someone has done it and can post up...

Isn't the thread "Can I for TD42" only
Or did I miss something.

Yes the bypass ideas for the TD42 only.
I haven't tried it so I can't say one way or the other, just passing some info on, that might help ya out.

[the evil twin]

Isn't the thread "Can I for TD42" only
Or did I miss something.

Yes the bypass ideas for the TD42 only.
I haven't tried it so I can't say one way or the other, just passing some info on, that might help ya out.

No and Yes...
Landy has a ZD with cooling issues and there are threads that are now all tangled together about ZD cooling, ZD mech pump, TD42 mech pump and his frustration with the vehicle and other options (I think)... it has gotten very confusing...

[Robo]

No and Yes...
Landy has a ZD with cooling issues and there are threads that are now all tangled together about ZD cooling, ZD mech pump, TD42 mech pump and his frustration with the vehicle and other options (I think)... it has gotten very confusing...

I replied to this TD issues thread, and this thread only.
Haven't seen, read, his other ones.
Not having a shot bro, actually lol about it, can't be every where.

Honestly though, now Iv'e stopped laughing.
If only the thread had been,
" what if hypothetically speaking I had a different motor".

[the evil twin]

snip...
Not having a shot bro,


ROFL... me neither cobber.

When I'm having a go the post starts out as;
"Why #$@% the %$^&# you #$%&* buy a Prado $%%@ stupid *%$^*&"...
and goes downhill from there.

Landy does have a bit of strange problem tho, hope we can help him sort it without having to transplant him into a GQ TD42 with an aftermarket Pump... Fuel pump that is...

[Robo]

Well as Shultz would say , Me know nothing, well about zd cooling anyway, so this is where I bow out.
Sorry I couldn't help.

[landy96]

Shit hit the fan the other day . We were going up the range heater on overdrive off.no trailer.no load.empty.we thought not a problem . Ha ha .
Nissan gauge just below half .aftermarket gauge 87 where it sits normal.going up hill temp creps up going 40kph gets to just below 100 .nissan gauge hasnt moved .. wifes driving she pulls over to let it cool .goes down to 87 off we go again .same shit twice more . Third time truck up her ass temp goes up and up she abuses me i abuse her nowhere to stop temp goes to 110 very bad abuse from both partys as we stop heat from heater is boiling us . But wait nissan gauge has hardly gone up a tiny flyshit. It shows no problem while motor is boiling . No wonder first motor blew . After cooling we took off again .both sides sorry for what was said . Needless to say one gu up for sale were buying an older swb xlt petrol on gas auto 1990 model . sorry guys but thank you for all the help and suggestions .

[happygu]

Thousands of 3 Litre Patrols out there that don't overheat .... gotta get to the root cause of the problem and taking it to an expert could definitely be helpful in this situation.

[BigRAWesty]

Yep.. something is not well..
This massive 4 core radiator you bought..
Is it a quality brand name or some ebay $100 buck job?
Some ebay ones have been known to cause more harm than good with extremely poor flow..

Have you checked your water pump at all??

Imo remover the sock.
With a well maintained system I can't see the need..
I know 5 cars personally and owned one of them with half a million or more kilometers on em and never run a sock and never had blockages..
Regular services prevent this..

[landy96]

It did this before new radiator or sock it did this stock standard thats why i changed everything one at a time .yes new waterpump

[BigRAWesty]

Yes I realize that but..
Is it a quality radiator or a $100 ebay jobbie?
Imo 4 core is killer overkill..
3 max.
But pretty sure stock is 2 and work fine..
Also what percentage coolent ratio are you running?

[landy96]

$500
50 / 50 nulon

[Robo]

$500
50 / 50 nulon

nulon ratio ok.
I know is said I'd bow out but
Ok a $500 radiator = partial info again.
Guessing it's a thicker dual or triple core job.
Maybe something that has probably been made for the colder european market, and thus not suited to our environment.

Or an overpriced falsely claimed, so called performance evilba rad.
Some sellers tell porkies to push below par product, That's the nicest way I can put it.

A thicker rad is not necessarily better.
Fin pitch has to be matched to the rad thickness for any performance gain.
Thicker with the wrong fin pitch can actually "BLOCK" air flow through the radiator.
In turn reduce cooling, so bad it could be worse than the standard rad, and ya over heat thinking "well it cant be the rad I just put a new one in".
I'm guessing your rad is not up to spec to suit your needs.
And hey I'm not preaching at ya mate, the one I just fitted," that was supplied to me", I think falls into this below par cooling scenario also.
Its a standard thickness core, but single core not dual core as std spec was.
But not any where as bad as yours is, thank christ.

[landy96]

4 core looks good 70 ml thick ..over heats with standard 2 core . only gets hot uphill slow speed.. not on highway towing trailer .

[nissannewby]

Was the viscous hub ever changed?

[landy96]

New viscus .with new waterpump .three new tested thermostats .

[BillsGU]

Is the fan on the right way round? Use a bit of paper to check air flow.

[Robo]

Have you ever cleaned the aircon core?, it also can block up reducing airflow through the rad core.

so you have a 4 core unit what brand? and type alloy?, and it over heats when going slow up hills.
to me it sounds like a combination of over fueling and reduced air flow.

Ahh what air filter set up do ya have, could it be restricting air, in turn also adding to rich mixture and heat stress.

[landy96]

Alloy radiator looks nice forgot what brand had red writing on angle on packet .
Yes fan in right direction .
Air condensor cleaned when radiator was out .
Standard nissan air filter .

All good points
But i have missed somthing ?

[BigRAWesty]

Any pictures of the setup??
To me if your struggling while slow but fine on the highway then is a simple flow issue..

So do you still have the standard viscous fan plus 3 thermos??

[landy96]

Yes to fans
Landy 96 cant get photos on here

[BigRAWesty]

Yes to fans
Landy 96 cant get photos on here
Your past 25 posts mate you should be right to upload some?

[Robo]

The fins and thickness can be critical.
Ok your is thicker but the "FPI" fines per inch, need to be less than standard to allow air flow through it.
EG--If FPI is large, ( more/same number fins per inch ,not less ) it is like a blanket being put over the rad, reducing airflow.

A properly matched,for the job thicker rad to fpi ratio build spec can take full advantage of the extra cooling capacity, mis-matched and problems.

I'm not saying this is the cause just something worth exploring.

[landy96]

Diesel Mechanic said head gasket or cracked head ??? Problem solved ..
Bloody subscribe scam popups on here keep jaming my phone .
I have popups blocked on my phone but it doesnt stop these

[BigRAWesty]

Diesel Mechanic said head gasket or cracked head ??? Problem solved ..
Bloody subscribe scam popups on here keep jaming my phone .
I have popups blocked on my phone but it doesnt stop these
Using tapatalk or the forum?

Sent from my SM-G800Y using Tapatalk

[Robo]

Diesel Mechanic said head gasket or cracked head ??? Problem solved ..
Bloody subscribe scam popups on here keep jaming my phone .
I have popups blocked on my phone but it doesnt stop these

Is it using water or oil?.
Whats the compression like?.

[LostBenji]

I just read through the whole thread trying to figure WTf are we talking about as the title is for a TD42 pump. Nothing to do with cooking it.....

I was asking myself the whole way through, have you and or anyone thought to check the radiator for oil or bubbles, Tried checking sump oil for water? The where signs all the way of a crack or leak as well plenty to say that the engine needed a good cooling system clean. The factory cooling on the ZD30's are pretty bloody good, thermos will never beat a engine driven clutch-fan.

[BigRAWesty]

I just read through the whole thread trying to figure WTf are we talking about as the title is for a TD42 pump. Nothing to do with cooking it.....

I was asking myself the whole way through, have you and or anyone thought to check the radiator for oil or bubbles, Tried checking sump oil for water? The where signs all the way of a crack or leak as well plenty to say that the engine needed a good cooling system clean. The factory cooling on the ZD30's are pretty bloody good, thermos will never beat a engine driven clutch-fan.
Lots of info has been lost between the 2 threads..

[the evil twin]

.


"What once was lost must now be found"

[LostBenji]

.


"What once was lost must now be found"
ROFLMAO
Nice one.

[Bigcol]

.


"What once was lost must now be found"


and where, prey tell, would one find their sanity then..........................????

where would I start to look for it.......???

[the evil twin]

ROFLMAO
Nice one.

Hehehe... worked on so many levels eh...