PDA

View Full Version : Mechanical injector pump zd30



landy96
30th April 2016, 09:50 PM
I want to know if i can get a mechanical injector pump for a zd30 so i can bypass the computer . I just lost one motor and the second one is having the same temperature problems as the first before blowing .i believe the computer is making it run hoter .pumping more fuel in ??. Getting bad fuel economy??.heats up easy ??.
I have fitted all the bits to stop detination recomended in the forum?? As well as fitting these .
New thermostate
New 4core radiator
New water pump
3 thermo fans .
As soon as i hit the toowoomba range the temp jumps up fast.so i have to stop at all the pullover spots and let it cool down each one .
Ac off .and inside heater on full fan at night .
So this is why i want to bypass the computer..
((Missus says get rid of gu and swap for a nice ti gq with all the bits already done difflocks .winch .lifted .33s.))

mudski
30th April 2016, 10:11 PM
It would be easier to swap ecu's than trying to make a mechanical ip work on a electronic system.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

BigRAWesty
30th April 2016, 10:43 PM
Ok so I'll assume you have the NADS kit fitted.. is that including the dawes (or tillix) and needle vales and are the functioning correctly?
What boost are you running?
Any ecu chip?
Have you had it tuned?

landy96
1st May 2016, 08:54 AM
How much for ecu and what if thats not the problem ? Already dipping into house payments .
Nads kit fitted . Needle valve .dawes valve .egt and boost gauge .
Runing max boost 17/18
Any incline start backing off when egt reaches 500

Hodge
1st May 2016, 09:39 AM
If you think the IP is pumping too much fuel in causing overheating, then wouldn't your egts be through the roof as well ?

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

landy96
2nd May 2016, 09:54 AM
I back off everytime the egt reaches 500.
So how do i get away from using computer .
Old school does me fine ..
Can i get a nice gq ti without a computer ??

BigRAWesty
2nd May 2016, 10:06 AM
500 is fine as a normal constant.
700 is around the max you wanna be at..
Have you tried winding max boost back to stock setting of 15psi?
Have you fitted a bigger maf housing? Or cleaned the maf sensor?

landy96
2nd May 2016, 10:26 AM
Currently runing 17/18 psi the lower i go the higher the egt
Just fitted new nissan maf

BigRAWesty
2nd May 2016, 10:52 AM
Any leaks in the intercooler or intake manifold?
But as I said.. 500 is quite a normal egt level.

mudski
2nd May 2016, 11:37 AM
How much for ecu and what if thats not the problem ? Already dipping into house payments .
Nads kit fitted . Needle valve .dawes valve .egt and boost gauge .
Runing max boost 17/18
Any incline start backing off when egt reaches 500

A second hand ECU would be much cheaper, and easier than buying and trying to make a mechanical pump work. You'd just need to get an ECU from the exact same specs as yours. How does the boost climb up on the gauge like? If its too slow this can cause temp issues, but it would be EGT more than water though.
Is it auto or manual?
Boost levels are fine or yours. Backing the boost off will just make things worse. The higher the better on these motors.

Just to confirm which temps are concerning you? Water or EGT?
Also when you put the new motor in, did you put a new IP and injectors?

landy96
2nd May 2016, 12:06 PM
Boost climbs good..
Auto..
Reco injector pump..
New welded intercooler..
New thermostats..
New 3 thermo fans ..
New alloy( 4 )core rad
Going up toowoomba range i keep foot off to keep egt under 500 .water temp creepsup a little so i stop at each pullover spot and let it cool .all of a suden between stops temp jumps up fast i pull up straight away on road and its on 3/4 . Thats when the last motor blew up .im still playing with needle and dawes to cool it down. Im scarred about it blowing up ..
I Want to swap it for a nice fully kitted out gq ti auto

nissannewby
2nd May 2016, 01:06 PM
Do you have an aftermarket temp gauge or are you just using the factory one?

Was the 4 core radiator and 3 thermo fans in place prior to rebuild?

landy96
2nd May 2016, 01:26 PM
All the accessories were fitted with new motor...looking where to fit water temp gauge (sender unit )without touching original one

landy96
2nd May 2016, 01:28 PM
I think the computer is the problem . I want to bypass it

nissannewby
2nd May 2016, 01:39 PM
I dont think it is. The computer doesnt control the engine temperature and you have taken the turbo control away from it using the dawes and needle valve. Are you driving up the range with o/d on or off?

Do you still have the original radiator?

I would be removing the 3 thermo fans and going back to a standard 2 core item or even a high end 2 core item. 4 core is just to much and wont be helping. Neither will the thermo fans.

You could use something like a ecu talk or scan gauge as this will give you a temperature readout from the ecu. It is very unlikely the ecu is at fault.

landy96
2nd May 2016, 01:51 PM
Went up range everything standard rad no nads first drive new motor same problem as last motor ... thats why i changed everything and fitted all the extras straight away ..

nissannewby
2nd May 2016, 01:57 PM
And it didnt help did it?

You cannot do want you are wanting to do without sinking a lot of money back into it.

Is it blowing excessive smoke? How much has your fuel consumption changed? Are all fluid levels spot on? Engine oil isnt over full?

landy96
2nd May 2016, 02:07 PM
Very carefull with all new recomended fluids .
New bare motor new injector pump lost 100ks per tankfull

nissannewby
2nd May 2016, 02:09 PM
No excessive smoke or low power?

landy96
2nd May 2016, 02:20 PM
No smoke good power currently playing with dawes

nissannewby
2nd May 2016, 02:22 PM
I think your issue lies in the cooling system

landy96
2nd May 2016, 02:31 PM
Out of the blue it goes up very fast not gradual
I have replaced everything to do with water even tried different thermostats 160 170 180 currently 170 works the best

mudski
2nd May 2016, 03:45 PM
Is overdrive on or off when climbing the hills?
As for the temp gauge. The best spot is on the cast pipe from the thernostat housing to the lower hose. You will need to remove the housing though to make things easier.
I dont think theres any room, or possibility, to fit an aftermarket sensor next to the oem temp sensor.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

landy96
2nd May 2016, 04:04 PM
Overdrive is off .inside heater is on full along way before .starting up the hill the hot air from heater is quit warm and as soon as i start up the hill it gets very hot as i go up before the dash gauge moves??.....if the sender is at the outlet from radiator would there be a big difference from the hot water coming out of the block??

Bigcol
2nd May 2016, 07:19 PM
I want to know if i can get a mechanical injector pump for a zd30 so i can bypass the computer . I just lost one motor and the second one is having the same temperature problems as the first before blowing .i believe the computer is making it run hoter .pumping more fuel in ??. Getting bad fuel economy??.heats up easy ??.
I have fitted all the bits to stop detination recomended in the forum?? As well as fitting these .
New thermostate
New 4core radiator
New water pump
3 thermo fans .
As soon as i hit the toowoomba range the temp jumps up fast.so i have to stop at all the pullover spots and let it cool down each one .
Ac off .and inside heater on full fan at night .
So this is why i want to bypass the computer..
((Missus says get rid of gu and swap for a nice ti gq with all the bits already done difflocks .winch .lifted .33s.))

first off, I dont know what the Toowoomba range looks like, so have know Idea of your hill.......

second, dont believe what the Temp Gauge in the dash says, it is only a guide.
on the gauge, about 2/3rds to 3/4s of the way along is a mark (see below in red) that is your maximum NORMAL running temp(approx 105*), anything below that is fine and dandy
anything over that mark is HOT and time to worry about engine temps

66589

as Mudski said, 500* on the EGT for a 3.0L is fine - just getting to engine temps
700 is working, but fine and dandy
750-800 - Houston we have a problem

if you look at this photo, taken off the web, his Boost is at about 15, and his EGT (Pyro) is at 300* - yes I know its a flat road - can YOU when next driving up these toowoomba ranges take a photo of the gauges and post them, so Mudski can have a look?????

66590


I have a funny feeling you have a major problem with your cooling system

when you fitted the New Radiator, did you have the front end up in the air, while adding the coolant.......? maybe an air bubble in the system
the Thermo fans are not as good as the original clutch fan hub - maybe with the bigger radiator, you need to re-fit the original fan & hub
long winded, but Thermo fans only good for low speed - once you get to a higher speed, they are actually blocking the air flow
thats why the OEM has the clutch hub, once it gets to a set temp, then fan "free spins" so there is no drag or blocking of the air flow through the radiator


see if you can get some pic's as your driving up that hill, so we can see what it is doing

the evil twin
2nd May 2016, 08:35 PM
first off, I dont know what the Toowoomba range looks like, so have know Idea of your hill.......



Think Greenmount but 3 times higher...

Only just spotted all this new info but as mentioned above and in the other thread try burping the Coolant.

Oh, and IMHO thermo fans are not nearly as effective and won't pull as much air as the factory viscous setup

landy96
2nd May 2016, 09:45 PM
Egt was 500 max
boost sitting around 15to 17 ...i went up and kept egt at max of 500 no more ...about 60kph adjusted speed to keep egt at or under 500 at night with heater on full
Yes i kept glued to the gauges ... paranoid ah
Can anybody link these couple of threads together

the evil twin
2nd May 2016, 10:42 PM
If your EGT is 500 you definitely aren't massively overfuelling

Bigcol
2nd May 2016, 11:04 PM
Think Greenmount but 3 times higher...

Only just spotted all this new info but as mentioned above and in the other thread try burping the Coolant.

Oh, and IMHO thermo fans are not nearly as effective and won't pull as much air as the factory viscous setup


Burping your coolant
get a plastic coke bottle, cut the bottom off
put the front of your Patrol on a set of Ramps or a couple of bricks to make the front of the engine higher than the rear
have car running without Radiator car on
put cut off coke bottle into Radiator, fill with water, and let it run for awhile to open the thermostat
keep lots of water in the coke bottle, as it runs, it will draw in any extra coolant needed, and burp out the air bubbles

landy96
4th May 2016, 02:20 PM
Thanks ill try that . Sorry for to many threads please reply to last thread
Injector pump 4.2
Thanks