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threedogs
7th April 2016, 09:04 AM
As suggested by Lucas save being in the Angry thread,
Not much to say at this stage, but Ill be removing the
radiator and thermostat over the weekend, hopefully.
I have an OE thermostat all ready,.
Not sure if my fan is working as I cant for the life of me remember
it ever turning on after the temps have risen. time will tell
my son is an Auto elect so he can test that for me.
Time will tell
IMO it goes too well to have a hole in the piston,
I dont lose water.

Touses
7th April 2016, 09:15 AM
It's not losing coolant? Hmmm. But it is holding residual pressure for a while after shut down? Hmmm.
Sound like it can only be one of two things.
Radiator cap kaput or maybe wrong pressure rating.
Small leak in head gasket. Have the same trouble at the moment.
The constant overheating bit is troublesome. Water pump.........?

threedogs
7th April 2016, 09:22 AM
Funny there is not one value on my ecu-talk that has changed.
ATM I think Ive clogged the system with head repair goo.
Like I said ill first check to see if the fan is working.
Another point is it will idle for hours if that helps anyone out there

Irish
7th April 2016, 09:51 AM
How does the coolant look? It's not milky at all?

Sir Roofy
7th April 2016, 10:02 AM
Funny there is not one value on my ecu-talk that has changed.
ATM I think Ive clogged the system with head repair goo.
Like I said ill first check to see if the fan is working.
Another point is it will idle for hours if that helps anyone out there

If its idling for hours it cant be a piston
would have drop out on to the floor and
tore the engine mounts out

threedogs
7th April 2016, 10:25 AM
How does the coolant look? It's not milky at all?

Only has water ATM as it was costing a fortune
After those posts Im thinking maybe the fan is not working at all.
It takes about say 20 k before it will play up.
Will check most over the weekend

Yendor
7th April 2016, 10:40 AM
The electric condenser fan should come on when the A/C is turned on or the ECU sees the engine temperature above 100°C.

The condenser fan is not the cause of your overheating. The latest models don't even have one fitted from factory. It's there to improve A/C efficiency.

Winnie
7th April 2016, 11:03 AM
It sounds like there might be nothing wrong with your engine mate and just the cooling system is not up to scratch.

Bush Ranger
7th April 2016, 11:07 AM
If the fan is thermostatic, check the fuse(s), but I gather you have done that. Just suggesting, as the Holden VN Berlina`s had two fuses. One under the dash fuse box and the other was in under the bonnet fuse box.

threedogs
7th April 2016, 11:38 AM
If the fan is thermostatic, check the fuse(s), but I gather you have done that. Just suggesting, as the Holden VN Berlina`s had two fuses. One under the dash fuse box and the other was in under the bonnet fuse box.

Im not to mobile atm need to pic the time when Im feeling ok,
thanks Winnie makes me feel better. First job will be to remove and clean
the radiator and replace the thermostat
Im a big fan of doing one thing at a time so Ill know what exactly is the problem

taslucas
7th April 2016, 12:10 PM
It sounds like there might be nothing wrong with your engine mate and just the cooling system is not up to scratch.
So no ls1 then :-(

>>>tappin from tassie

jay see
7th April 2016, 12:16 PM
I'm with Winnie on this one mate and good to do one thing at a time, start with the easiest and cheapest.

Yell out if you need a hand, just not this weekend working.

Yendor, you sure that fan kicks in at 100 degrees, if so that's a good way to check the accuracy of the temp gauge, both original and aftermarket.

Winnie
7th April 2016, 12:28 PM
Im a big fan of doing one thing at a time so Ill know what exactly is the problem

Bugger that. I would give the entire cooling system an overhaul. If your problem is fixed at the end of it all, who cares what the problem was. It could be a lot of smaller things too.

Hodge
7th April 2016, 12:34 PM
I'm with Winnie on this . Especially with the cooling system most things would need coolant dropped... just bite the bullet if you can and give the whole thing a full flush and change bits while the system is empty.
Especially if that leak solution you poured in blocked up the system even more.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

threedogs
7th April 2016, 01:06 PM
Nah this aint gunna work need to pull some favours where possible just stood up for 5 mins and collapsed.
Those that have been here have seen it ,bloody painful I can tell you. ok time to med up I think

Hodge
7th April 2016, 01:07 PM
Another question have you taken this to any shops to get the looked at ?

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threedogs
7th April 2016, 01:24 PM
NO is a quick answer as I didnt think it was a big deal at the time

jay see
7th April 2016, 01:30 PM
Maybe just get it booked in somewhere to find out what is the cause.
Then you can decide on what you can do.

Cuppa
7th April 2016, 01:54 PM
TD, I had a compression test done and it passed. And a sniff test or whatever it is. Also passed. Turned out head was cracked over 4 cylinders.
Had similar issues (pressure building overnight etc). May not be what you want to hear, but does sound familiar :(

.

What does "holding residual pressure for a while after shut down" mean? Coolant not being sucked back into radiator as motor cools down?
Hate to say it but I also think it's sounding like either a cracked head or a cylinder head gasket blowing between cylinders. Given that it runs ok for 20kms or so before playing up I'd guess that the cracked cylinder head is more likely.

threedogs
7th April 2016, 02:01 PM
What does "holding residual pressure for a while after shut down" mean? Coolant not being sucked back into radiator as motor cools down?
Hate to say it but I also think it's sounding like either a cracked head or a cylinder head gasket blowing between cylinders. Given that it runs ok for 20kms or so before playing up I'd guess that the cracked cylinder head is more likely.

See thats a new [reco] motor right there,,, as the labour to fix the head gasket is more than a motor
I dont sit on a big pile of money here , I'm on a disability support pension,so options are limited so it may
end up being a boat anchor. Ill try and get most of the cooling system out over the weekend

mudnut
7th April 2016, 02:14 PM
I wish I had the dough to come up and help you, as I have the time to do so, next week, when everyone is back to look after our animals.

Touses
7th April 2016, 02:18 PM
What does "holding residual pressure for a while after shut down" mean? Coolant not being sucked back into radiator as motor cools down?
Hate to say it but I also think it's sounding like either a cracked head or a cylinder head gasket blowing between cylinders. Given that it runs ok for 20kms or so before playing up I'd guess that the cracked cylinder head is more likely.

Heya Cuppa. Yeah the coolant won't return from the overflow and the pressure shifts a bit (depending on how bad the problem is) of the coolant out and away via the overflow reservoir.
Mine is doing it at the moment. I ease the pressure of a morning by bleeding the top of the far column (triple flow radiator) and gently cracking the cap.
I found I don't need to replace any coolant as it settled in about 1/2 way in the top tank. Just ease pressure and motor sensibly.
New head gasket next week will return all to normal.

3D i hope this is all your problem is bloke, you got enough going on without major engine issues.

lucus30
7th April 2016, 06:11 PM
I wish I had the dough to come up and help you, as I have the time to do so, next week, when everyone is back to look after our animals.

How much dosh would it take ?

Cuppa
7th April 2016, 06:29 PM
I know it’s often said that a blown a head gasket means a new motor, maybe it’s correct, but it sounds pretty extreme to me.
I don’t undertand why the labour to remove & replace a cylinder head would cost more than replacing a complete motor (along with all it’s ancillaries)?
Is this specifically a 3 litre Patrol thing?

nissannewby
7th April 2016, 07:25 PM
Easy trick for you to do which you do when you bleed the cooling system. Stick the coke bottle in with enough fluid in it so you can see it. If you get lots of bubbles continuously, even little ones, the something is gone whether its the head or gasket.

A good mate of mine runs a shop. Last quote i got off him to do a head on a zd30 patrol was 2200. So not motor replacement money. This was a retail quoate as well it wasnt for me.

Maxhead
7th April 2016, 07:44 PM
Don't want to piss you off TD, but you have given advice to about everyone on this forum about every single issue to do with Patrols. What is the problem solving this one?
I really thought you know your shit but I seem to think otherwise.

If it is just help you're after with lifting/removing/moving/installing then I am more than confident people will jump in and help. This is what this forum is all about.

Just seems strange someone in your knowhow is struggling figuring this one out.

Wish I could help mate but I'm just a Patrol driver not an expert.

the evil twin
7th April 2016, 08:08 PM
snip...
ATM I think Ive clogged the system with head repair goo.


Hmmm... wouldn't be the first time that has happended.

I'd be more suspicious of that and what Cuppa and others have said rather than fans etc

Hodge
7th April 2016, 08:27 PM
Easy trick for you to do which you do when you bleed the cooling system. Stick the coke bottle in with enough fluid in it so you can see it. If you get lots of bubbles continuously, even little ones, the something is gone whether its the head or gasket.



When my family friends CRD went ass over tits, I was there when the mechanic done exactly this. They knew the motor was gone, but just wanted to prove a point. I remember you could actually smell exhaust fumes coming out of the coolant at the radiator as bubbles.

mudski
7th April 2016, 09:39 PM
Im not to mobile atm need to pic the time when Im feeling ok,
thanks Winnie makes me feel better. First job will be to remove and clean
the radiator and replace the thermostat
Im a big fan of doing one thing at a time so Ill know what exactly is the problem
How are you going to clean the radiator? Id be taking it to a professional and get the tanks removed and the core properly cleaned. Otherwise you will be just wasting your time i reckon.
Looks to me he car just needs a good cooling overhaul.
We hope....
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

mudski
7th April 2016, 09:45 PM
Easy trick for you to do which you do when you bleed the cooling system. Stick the coke bottle in with enough fluid in it so you can see it. If you get lots of bubbles continuously, even little ones, the something is gone whether its the head or gasket.

A good mate of mine runs a shop. Last quote i got off him to do a head on a zd30 patrol was 2200. So not motor replacement money. This was a retail quoate as well it wasnt for me.
Yeah i have a 2ltr coke bottle cut in half with electrical tape wrapped around the neck so it sits tight in the rad. Works a treat this one.

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taslucas
7th April 2016, 09:47 PM
I do recall a few threads about cooling system overhaul but I can't remember if they were for zd30

>>>tappin from tassie

threedogs
8th April 2016, 11:33 AM
Ive obtained the services of a Patrol mechanic from one of the local 4x4 shops
All they do day in day out is patrols so Im in good hands

the evil twin
8th April 2016, 04:01 PM
Ive obtained the services of a Patrol mechanic from one of the local 4x4 shops
All they do day in day out is patrols so Im in good hands

That would be boring as... just sitting around watching the competition over the road going flat out from dawn to dusk fixing Yotas'... (think about it, if ya don't get it, think some more)

threedogs
8th April 2016, 04:20 PM
Bummer without the patrol, already cost me
$50 going to the doctors and back GRRrrr

Sir Roofy
8th April 2016, 05:34 PM
Bummer without the patrol, already cost me
$50 going to the doctors and back GRRrrr

Any news on the motor

threedogs
8th April 2016, 05:45 PM
Any news on the motor

Not yet ripping the radiator out and back flushing it to get any goo out.
Emailed the ppl of that Rislone product and they state that it can not block any galleries etc.
My theory is its all packed up against the thermostat, Body willing Ill be attacking it
tomorrow, Hopefully

Winnie
8th April 2016, 06:10 PM
If you were closer John I would give you a hand.

threedogs
8th April 2016, 06:17 PM
If you were closer John I would give you a hand.

Thanks Winnie means a heap to me ,,,,,,I'll struggle through it hopefully ?

Sir Roofy
8th April 2016, 07:10 PM
Not yet ripping the radiator out and back flushing it to get any goo out.
Emailed the ppl of that Rislone product and they state that it can not block any galleries etc.
My theory is its all packed up against the thermostat, Body willing Ill be attacking it
tomorrow, Hopefully

That's a possibility mate the thermostat is not easy to get at
better if you take the left front wheel off

and yes we would be there to

Clunk
8th April 2016, 07:10 PM
If you were closer John I would give you a hand.

If I was closer, I'd come and watch

threedogs
8th April 2016, 07:12 PM
If I was closer, I'd come and watch

And I would sit next to you and hand spanners ha ha ha oh and beer lol
Thanks for the tip bout the wheel Roofylol

Clunk
8th April 2016, 07:14 PM
And I would sit next to you and hand spanners ha ha ha oh and beer lol

nah bugger that, sounds too hard hahahaha

paulyg
8th April 2016, 07:27 PM
Is holding pressure in the cooling system really that bad?
Mine holds pressure for up to 2 days or more, but still runs normally and does not use coolant.
It did start to over heat late last year, but that was the viscus fan hub, changed that and no more over heating.

threedogs
8th April 2016, 07:33 PM
Is holding pressure in the cooling system really that bad?
Mine holds pressure for up to 2 days or more, but still runs normally and does not use coolant.
It did start to over heat late last year, but that was the viscus fan hub, changed that and no more over heating.

Good info thanks Paul, thanks
@ Clunk I take it you like to watch,,,,,,,thats just sick lol

taslucas
8th April 2016, 07:36 PM
Is holding pressure in the cooling system really that bad?
Mine holds pressure for up to 2 days or more, but still runs normally and does not use coolant.
It did start to over heat late last year, but that was the viscus fan hub, changed that and no more over heating.
Yours is "boiling" over though isn't it John? It's pushing coolant out the overflow not just holding pressure?

Good info thanks Paul, thanks
@ Clunk I take it you like to watch,,,,,,,thats just sick lol


>>>tappin from tassie

threedogs
8th April 2016, 08:03 PM
Its been getting warm,,, as I normally pull over before things get too hot
Somethings up thats for sure. Hopefully I can find something out of whack over the weekend

threedogs
8th April 2016, 08:55 PM
With the thermostat gasket, is it just a thin layer of RTV or just use the gasket dry,??

jay see
8th April 2016, 09:26 PM
Its been getting warm,,, as I normally pull over before things get too hot
Somethings up thats for sure. Hopefully I can find something out of whack over the weekend

What kind of temps are we talking about here.

mudski
8th April 2016, 09:54 PM
With the thermostat gasket, is it just a thin layer of RTV or just use the gasket dry,??
Theres no gasket just an oring around the thermostat. Bitta goo wont hurt though. If you can hold out until next week i could come over for a couple of hours. My days are busier than ever now i have to take two kids to two different schools, run the store inbetween, then pick them up again.

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threedogs
9th April 2016, 08:06 AM
Sounds good as Irish has offered as well.
I'm lying to myself about being able to do anything.
Can't swing on a spanner as that will hurt, that's why
I brought the 12v wheel nut remover.
I'll plod along and do some of the easier stuff like remove the radiator
Again thanks for the offer, means a lot,

threedogs
9th April 2016, 02:24 PM
I got the Jack out and a stand to put under the chassis, just waiting
on one of my sons to help, Bit hard as one works on the weekend and the other has a broken wrist lol
Gets a bit painful pumping the jack so Ill have to pump it with my leg.Getting the wheel off is easy
as I have a great 12v wheel nut remover, one that winds up then thumps, had it over 20 years easy.
Fully rebuildeable if anyone has one, anyway Action stations tomorrow eh, lol

jay see
9th April 2016, 09:56 PM
John you say that your electrical fan the a/c one won't go on. That fan should always go on when the a/c is on regardless of temp. Do a simple test, start it up and turn in the a/c on. That will at least eliminate one possible cause.

threedogs
10th April 2016, 10:43 AM
Missed this post last night, so far Ive jacked it up and placed a stand under it.
then came inside for some meds ..this is not funny any more, Thanks Jay see
will do fan test now.

threedogs
10th April 2016, 10:49 AM
So fans don't come when I push air con, Is this just a fuse and where is it
or is it a relay., fingers crossed,
If this is all it was thought the power was still too good to have a cracked head.
we'll see eh
Still need to remove the clogged thermostat

BigRAWesty
10th April 2016, 11:32 AM
I'd say the fan may play a small part but it's only to assist the ac condenser..
I'd say your issue is the additive.. it's blocked somewhere.. hopefully the thermostat..

threedogs
10th April 2016, 11:47 AM
I'd say the fan may play a small part but it's only to assist the ac condenser..
I'd say your issue is the additive.. it's blocked somewhere.. hopefully the thermostat..

Its not the additive as it did it with no additive in it
I believe its blocked now thats why I need someone to remove it,
the thermostat housing that is.

taslucas
10th April 2016, 11:58 AM
So fans don't come when I push air con, Is this just a fuse and where is it
or is it a relay., fingers crossed,
If this is all it was thought the power was still too good to have a cracked head.
we'll see eh
Still need to remove the clogged thermostat
Remember what you tell everyone, the KISS principle.


I'd say the fan may play a small part but it's only to assist the ac condenser..
I'd say your issue is the additive.. it's blocked somewhere.. hopefully the thermostat..
Looking to see if the fan comes on when the aircon is turned on is a way of seeing if the fan is working. If it's not coming on when the aircon is turned on then it's likely it's not coming on ever which could be the reason the cooling system overheats.

John, when the vehicle is hot and idling, does the fan come on? When was the last time you saw/heard the fan going?
Ie; the cooling system may be borderline effective and not quite working well enough without the thermo fan to help

>>>tappin from tassie

threedogs
10th April 2016, 12:03 PM
Cant for the life in me remember when I last heard the fans working.
Idling and HWY work will see the temps recover, so now I need to get
the head repair goo out behind the thermostat, and maybe change a fuse here and a relay there maybe

the evil twin
10th April 2016, 12:42 PM
The A/C elec fan not coming on won't be the cause of the overheating.

In the ZD30 up to about series 7 or 8 the fan is controlled by the ECU (IIRC later ZD30's don't have the elec fan)
A/C off, coolant below 100 deg = Fan off
A/C on, coolant below 100 deg = Fan on
A/C off, coolant above 100 deg = Fan on

I don't know much past that about the ZD's as I haven't seen one that ever had a problem
The TD's I know very well 'cause of the propensity for them to overheat anywhere north of Antarctica

If the fan doesn't come on at all I would suspect;
The Fuse (30 amp jobbie in the engine fuse box IIRC)
The Relay (cooling fan relay#1 in the relay box beside the battery)
The Fan (check the voltage at the fan plug) if that is OK then the fan is shagged

threedogs
10th April 2016, 12:51 PM
Thanks ET. Still need to get the thermostat housing off to back flush the system,
untill then Im knackered {staying put}

Bloodyaussie
10th April 2016, 12:57 PM
I am finding this thread to be frustrating and confusing. ...

There seems to be no set processes as to trouble shooting this issue....

You chop and change your thinking and i have not seen any test and result with clear answers.?

Did you do the coke bottle test with the cooling system.? I may have missed it if you did.

Also from my experience with that stuff you you put into your engine is it does increase engine temps and causes restrictions in your cooling system.

Has this car ever had a major overhaul of its cooling sytem..eg radiator out and serviced properly. . New hoses and thermostat. ?

What happened to the guy you said you had coming to look at it or did i miss read this.?

threedogs
10th April 2016, 01:41 PM
As for ppl coming and looking its not like I ring a bell and they arrive,,,,, it's when they are available.
Pretty sure the cooling system is stock with no overhauls.
As for the goo they say it cannot raise temps or block anything.
Im at the mercy of others I cant stand for any period of time etc
Again I have to wait till ppl are free.
Yes the coke battle was the first thing to do
All i want at this stage is the thermostat housing removed and inspected
again I have to wait till someone is free to do it.
Some have put up their hands but that is for next week end

Dr Gary
10th April 2016, 03:33 PM
Hey TD, there is a lot of talk about electric fans. The main cooling fan is (was?) the viscose mechanical fan on the water pump. Unless you have changed something, that is how the 3.0DDi are built, so the electric fan does not matter.
Here are the steps to remove the thermostat from the Gregorys repair manual:--
To remove thermostat you need to 1) drain the system, 2) disconnect the lower radiator hose, 3) remove air intake hose, 4) remove rear shroud, then front shroud. Now you can get to the thermostat housing.
Manual also recommends removing the underneath stone guard as part of step one, and have the vehicle jacked up for easier access. Jack stands please!!!
I don't know anything about wheel removal, but it sounds OK instead of jacking up.
Sorry I am nowhere near you.

Clunk
10th April 2016, 03:40 PM
As for ppl coming and looking its not like I ring a bell and they arrive,,,,, it's when they are available.
Pretty sure the cooling system is stock with no overhauls.
As for the goo they say it cannot raise temps or block anything.
Im at the mercy of others I cant stand for any period of time etc
Again I have to wait till ppl are free.
Yes the coke battle was the first thing to do
All i want at this stage is the thermostat housing removed and inspected
again I have to wait till someone is free to do it.
Some have put up their hands but that is for next week end
So what wa the outcome of the coje bottle test?.......... cant see it anywhere in this thread

Hodge
10th April 2016, 03:44 PM
Yes the coke battle was the first thing to do

Hey John curious what the result was? Once bled, there were no bubbles??

Edit: Clunkmaster beat me to it.

threedogs
10th April 2016, 03:45 PM
Thanks Doc again at the mercy of others. I will be asking the guy up the road
if he can do it for me,

Clunk
10th April 2016, 03:58 PM
So were there bubbles or not?

threedogs
10th April 2016, 04:11 PM
I"ll do again right now

threedogs
10th April 2016, 05:04 PM
OK 50 mins later cold car didn't even get to temp until I moved it and temps were straight up to mid 90s
No bubbles but I suspect the thermostat is blocked with this copper matting material.{see pic}
Thats why I want the thermostat housing off and back flush it.100% sure the thermostat is blocked
as Ive been saying all along.
All I need to do now is wait till somebody is available to remove it for me.
I know nobody that would be willing to do it unfortunately

Bloodyaussie
10th April 2016, 05:31 PM
I thought you said the head was stuffed...

Now i said that the stuff you put in raised temps either by blocking the radiator or elsewhere in the cooling system.

Is your viscous fan working properly... this is where i would be looking next.

the evil twin
10th April 2016, 05:38 PM
Strewth... WTF is that copper stuff?

threedogs
10th April 2016, 05:39 PM
Fan does not work that I know of, according to that air-con test.
which ever way I look at it he thermostat still need to come out.
Don't think I've ever heard the fans working

threedogs
10th April 2016, 05:43 PM
Strewth... WTF is that copper stuff?

Its a product called Rislone head repair you tip it into the cooling system
and let it idle for 15mins with the heater on full and fan flat out.
It goes in as a copper soup and turns into a copper type matting.
I emailed the guy about if my motor was suitable and it was , criteria
if it can idle for 1/2hr with out boiling your in,

lhurley
10th April 2016, 05:56 PM
That air con electric fan doesn't really do a whole lot. Majority of your cooling comes from the vicious (clutch) fan on the front of the motor.

Easy to test viscous fan, simplest with the car OFF, try spin the fan by hand. It should stop fairly quickly. If it's keeps spinning easily then it's buggered.
Or if you are driving and the engine temp rises while idling but drops once you start moving, the fan in buggered.


I understand that funds are short for you, but the cooling system really needs some love. Having just done my own I am happy to report that I no longer have any temp issues.
You might have a few little things that are adding up to 1 big thing, over heating.

First get that copper sh!t out of the system. Clean fluid and then see what happens. Also, coolant actually does help. It raises the boiling point of water. Just grab a bottle of concentrate (5 liters) and put half in and top up with water. If you need to drop the coolant again you still have some ready to go.

mudski
10th April 2016, 06:05 PM
If it were me i would remove the radiator and get it professionally clean before anything. Especially like a thermostat change. As this is a big pain in the ass to do. The repair shop will be able to tell you if its blocked or not.

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mudski
10th April 2016, 06:09 PM
So fans don't come when I push air con, Is this just a fuse and where is it
or is it a relay., fingers crossed,
If this is all it was thought the power was still too good to have a cracked head.
we'll see eh
Still need to remove the clogged thermostat
From memory mate when i had the zd the fan only comes on when the a/c condenser reaches a certain temp. I know mine didnt always come on. It would go on and off with the a/c idle up. Which is activated by the a/c condenser temp.

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mudski
10th April 2016, 06:11 PM
Anyone changed a water pump on one of these?

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Bloodyaussie
10th April 2016, 06:20 PM
I asked about the viscous fan john not the aircon...

That stuff you put in i have used when it was 100% confirmed i had done a head in the pertol engine and it really is only an emergency solution.

Now i thought you had more of an understanding of mechanics with the amount of advice you offer to others but this does not seem to be the case the cooling system is as strong as its weakest point and is a matter of a simple process to diagnose eliminating things as you go..

I understand you have issues when it comes to physically working on your car but you make it hard for people to follow or help with advise when you chop and change... comments like "it got hot im out" is frustrating for those around you as you do not ask for help in any real fashion but hint at people not helping when you need ...

If you want help just state the facts and set a date in which people who might have time can come round and help....

I do a lot of work myself but i also send my car to get worked on and also have it checked properly either by HT's or by JPC.

threedogs
10th April 2016, 06:33 PM
The viscous fan feel fine it has good resistance
Easy saying send your patrol here and there
I dont get a full pay each week I wish I did.
Im going to doctors ,chemists etc all the time and for the missus
this should have been fixed last week. My "injury" has turned my world up side down
I cant go sending my patrol here and there for repairs its just not on.
I sit here every day hearing ppl saying I done this and that it brings me to tears.
Dont you think Id like a reliable cruiser, with all the bells and whistles, I love my Patrol like no other
As its the one nice thing I have. All I want ATM is the thermostat housing off
so I can get all that copper matting out, Sorry vent over but Im only on a Disability support pension
like some others here

Maxhead
10th April 2016, 06:36 PM
I asked about the viscous fan john not the aircon...

That stuff you put in i have used when it was 100% confirmed i had done a head in the pertol engine and it really is only an emergency solution.

Now i thought you had more of an understanding of mechanics with the amount of advice you offer to others but this does not seem to be the case the cooling system is as strong as its weakest point and is a matter of a simple process to diagnose eliminating things as you go..

I understand you have issues when it comes to physically working on your car but you make it hard for people to follow or help with advise when you chop and change... comments like "it got hot im out" is frustrating for those around you as you do not ask for help in any real fashion but hint at people not helping when you need ...

If you want help just state the facts and set a date in which people who might have time can come round and help....

I do a lot of work myself but i also send my car to get worked on and also have it checked properly either by HT's or by JPC.

Good luck mate

Clunk
10th April 2016, 06:55 PM
What about your landcrab, is that driveable?

Maxhead
10th April 2016, 06:58 PM
The viscous fan feel fine it has good resistance
Easy saying send your patrol here and there
I dont get a full pay each week I wish I did.
Im going to doctors ,chemists etc all the time and for the missus
this should have been fixed last week. My "injury" has turned my world up side down
I cant go sending my patrol here and there for repairs its just not on.
I sit here every day hearing ppl saying I done this and that it brings me to tears.
Dont you think Id like a reliable cruiser, with all the bells and whistles, I love my Patrol like no other
As its the one nice thing I have. All I want ATM is the thermostat housing off
so I can get all that copper matting out, Sorry vent over but Im only on a Disability support pension
like some others here

John, I think you need to stop playing the sympathy card and get onto the subject of sorting your car out. Tell the truth and stop fucking around!

mudski
10th April 2016, 07:06 PM
I have an idea. Before removing the thermostat. Because you think this stff you used has blocked it yes? I have an inspection camera. We could use this to see it there is any blockage.
I dont mind helping where i can mate but i dont want to be removing the thermostat if its not blocked. Its not an easy job.

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Clunk
10th April 2016, 07:17 PM
I have an idea. Before removing the thermostat. Because you think this stff you used has blocked it yes? I have an inspection camera. We could use this to see it there is any blockage.
I dont mind helping where i can mate but i dont want to be removing the thermostat if its not blocked. Its not an easy job.

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Cracking idea

threedogs
10th April 2016, 07:25 PM
John, I think you need to stop playing the sympathy card and get onto the subject of sorting your car out. Tell the truth and stop fucking around!

Just telling it as it is, if you want to call it something else so be it.
As for the Troopy its out of reg so thats out of the question.
@ mark you think your light will reach the thermostat??
Just PM a time Ill make sure motor is cold

Hodge
10th April 2016, 07:26 PM
John, I finish shifts between 7-8pm next week or so, I could pop over and give you a hand, won't take me long to your place from tulla. But whether that is late for you or not, I don't know. I've never removed the thermostat on the 3L, and from what Mudski said, and from what I've quickly glanced through the manuals, it's not a quick job and would be dark and stuff, but so be it.
I like what Mark suggested though with the camera, before disassembling a whole lot...
Offer is there mate.

jay see
10th April 2016, 07:58 PM
PM sent......

paulyg
10th April 2016, 07:59 PM
I did my water pump last year, the pump was fine but the viscus hub was shot, the hub and pump are not available separately on the DI motors.
when I turned the fan, I could not feel any difference between hot or cold.
It was not to difficult, to change, but a pita to get to some of the bolts.
The electric fan on the air-conditioning condenser on my truck cycles on and off, depending on the temp.
I do not think the hub is your problem, my temp would go up slowly, and it never boiled.

Sir Roofy
10th April 2016, 08:00 PM
Good idea Mark just drop the bottom hose
if it blocked the crap will fallout well some
of it but as said John its a bugger of a job

macca
10th April 2016, 08:04 PM
Im only on a Disability support pension like some others here

Time to liquidate some assets, you seem to have a shed full of treasures.

Parting with stuff collected might not be easy.

When times are tough, tough decisions need to be made

Maxhead
10th April 2016, 08:07 PM
Time to liquidate some assets, you seem to have a shed full of treasures.

Parting with stuff collected might not be easy.

When times are tough, tough decisions need to be made
\\Get onto it TD

Clunk
10th April 2016, 08:48 PM
Time to liquidate some assets, you seem to have a shed full of treasures.

Parting with stuff collected might not be easy.

When times are tough, tough decisions need to be made
And stop buying shit off ebay...... every little bit helps

BigRAWesty
10th April 2016, 09:45 PM
Time to liquidate some assets, you seem to have a shed full of treasures.

Parting with stuff collected might not be easy.

When times are tough, tough decisions need to be made


\\Get onto it TD


And stop buying shit off ebay...... every little bit helps
Common guys back off a bit yea..
let's find out an issue before dollars are sought..
It's no one's place except Johns to decide on what gets spent and where..

mudski
10th April 2016, 10:03 PM
@ mark you think your light will reach the thermostat??
Just PM a time Ill make sure motor is cold

The lead is maybe 500mm long. I reckon it will reach. Ill get in touch mate.

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mudski
10th April 2016, 10:04 PM
I did my water pump last year, the pump was fine but the viscus hub was shot, the hub and pump are not available separately on the DI motors.
when I turned the fan, I could not feel any difference between hot or cold.
It was not to difficult, to change, but a pita to get to some of the bolts.
The electric fan on the air-conditioning condenser on my truck cycles on and off, depending on the temp.
I do not think the hub is your problem, my temp would go up slowly, and it never boiled.
Thanks Paul. So atleast its doable if need be then.

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BigRAWesty
10th April 2016, 10:06 PM
The lead is maybe 500mm long. I reckon it will reach. Ill get in touch mate.

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I think its worth a Crack. . You'll at least see what's floating around in there and general condition of it all even if you can't reach the thermostat..

how small is the head? Is it able to check radiator cores?

Clunk
10th April 2016, 10:15 PM
Common guys back off a bit yea..
let's find out an issue before dollars are sought..
It's no one's place except Johns to decide on what gets spent and where..
Hey oh wise one, yes you're right....not havin a crack, just stating the obvious, it's what I do when times are tough, I dont spend money on stuff and sell shit I don't really need....... you do what's needed to get shit done

mudski
10th April 2016, 10:15 PM
I think its worth a Crack. . You'll at least see what's floating around in there and general condition of it all even if you can't reach the thermostat..

how small is the head? Is it able to check radiator cores?
The head is a BIC pen size in diameter. We could stick it in the rad and have a look. Its only a cheap camera but it works.

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trekster
10th April 2016, 10:20 PM
Sounds like you have the same problem I recently had except I didn't stick gunky sh*t into my cooling system, my gu8 would run hot, few times got up to 110-115c, Wasn't losing coolant, but would pressurise the system after driving and not let the coolant back into the system and it would get stuck in the overflow tank..

The solution? A brand new radiator, Mine was over 70% blocked and this is only a 3 and a bit year old car mind you, Cooling specialist said they should be flushed every year or they get build up in them and clog up. Since I changed to new radiator, Running temp 86-92c with 92 being full noise and 600+ egt up a hill......

Mine also doesn't run a front ac fan.

BigRAWesty
10th April 2016, 10:21 PM
The head is a BIC pen size in diameter. We could stick it in the rad and have a look. Its only a cheap camera but it works.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
I'm thinking it it has blocked the thermostat it's possible it's blocked some cores too..
Worth a look if ya can imo..

mudski
10th April 2016, 10:42 PM
Sounds like you have the same problem I recently had except I didn't stick gunky sh*t into my cooling system, my gu8 would run hot, few times got up to 110-115c, Wasn't losing coolant, but would pressurise the system after driving and not let the coolant back into the system and it would get stuck in the overflow tank..

The solution? A brand new radiator, Mine was over 70% blocked and this is only a 3 and a bit year old car mind you, Cooling specialist said they should be flushed every year or they get build up in them and clog up. Since I changed to new radiator, Running temp 86-92c with 92 being full noise and 600+ egt up a hill......

Mine also doesn't run a front ac fan.
This...... pull the rad, or i can do it. And either get it checked, will cost you $$$, for the check. Then they will either say, it fubar, more $$$, or you just bite the bullet and replace it anyway. Still $$$, but less than a check and new rad.
That is. If its just cooling issue you have. Not something more sinister. Then you will no choice but to get a professional to take it further. Compression and sniff test would be the first i would be doing.

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Sir Roofy
11th April 2016, 07:05 AM
@ Mudski if you need a hand ill come down let me know what day ??

Hodge
11th April 2016, 07:27 AM
@ Mudski if you need a hand ill come down let me know what day ??
Yeah same if & when you go if I'm free I'll come help. Just let us know.

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threedogs
11th April 2016, 11:10 AM
Ill ring the guys from Bundoora radiators as the warranty may be better
Ok warranty was 2 yrs for $290ish, Ill get my son to pick that up.
Ill pick up a trade order to further reduce that price?

mudski
11th April 2016, 12:56 PM
Ill ring the guys from Bundoora radiators as the warranty may be better
Ok warranty was 2 yrs for $290ish, Ill get my son to pick that up.
Ill pick up a trade order to further reduce that price?

If you order it for Wednesday I can pick it up on my way across to you. Make sure you specify auto trans too.
Roofy and Hodge. Thanks for the offers but it will be myself and JaySee there on Wednesday. Its really only a one man job for this....

Hodge
11th April 2016, 01:51 PM
If you order it for Wednesday I can pick it up on my way across to you. Make sure you specify auto trans too.
Roofy and Hodge. Thanks for the offers but it will be myself and JaySee there on Wednesday. Its really only a one man job for this....
No dramas. I got work Tuesday night and I'm off Wednesday so if you still need a hand im free to tag along.

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lucus30
11th April 2016, 01:57 PM
If you order it for Wednesday I can pick it up on my way across to you. Make sure you specify auto trans too.
Roofy and Hodge. Thanks for the offers but it will be myself and JaySee there on Wednesday. Its really only a one man job for this....

You guys are awesome. Mark you are a great bloke fresh off sorting out roofy and your into another assist

Kimbo63
11th April 2016, 02:00 PM
You guys are awesome. Mark you are a great bloke fresh off sorting out roofy and your into another assist
X2 on that mark the mudskipper ledgen

mudski
11th April 2016, 03:57 PM
You guys are awesome. Mark you are a great bloke fresh off sorting out roofy and your into another assist
Thanks. I try to help out where i can. Even if it will only be a couple of hours. My weekends i have been told by the boss are to be spent at home for a while. Lol.
She doesnt realise theres a long weekend coming up. She's not gonna be happy.
I do hope for Johns sake its just in need of a cooling overhaul.

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mudski
11th April 2016, 03:59 PM
No dramas. I got work Tuesday night and I'm off Wednesday so if you still need a hand im free to tag along.

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Mate your welcome to come along and just talk chit, or pass a spanner.
We need Rossco though really. Hes got long skinny fingers. Great for accessing bolts in tight spots. Lol. I got short kranskys for fingers.

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lucus30
11th April 2016, 04:02 PM
Mate your welcome to come along and just talk chit, or pass a spanner.
We need Rossco though really. Hes got long skinny fingers. Great for accessing bolts in tight spots. Lol. I got short kranskys for fingers.

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Oh man my stupid guerrilla hands make stuff so hard. It's embarrassing but I ask my Mrs to help sometimes with her tiny hands

mudski
11th April 2016, 06:08 PM
And not to forget Jaysee is going there tomorrow to make a start. He was going to come Wednesday but cannot. So hopefully he will be able to remove whats needed, without much fuss, and I will put the new parts back in.

lucus30
11th April 2016, 06:10 PM
And not to forget Jaysee is going there tomorrow to make a start. He was going to come Wednesday but cannot. So hopefully he will be able to remove whats needed, without much fuss, and I will put the new parts back in.

Yup I know you guys meaning Jaysee too. But was saying well done to you specifically regarding the back to back effort

threedogs
11th April 2016, 07:27 PM
Hoping to pull most of the cooling system out tomorrow,
Pretty sure the Aux battery needs to be removed as well.
If someone could confirm it,
@ Mark I do have a new water pump here but Im thinking
if it aint broke you know the rest

Rossco
11th April 2016, 07:36 PM
Mate your welcome to come along and just talk chit, or pass a spanner.
We need Rossco though really. Hes got long skinny fingers. Great for accessing bolts in tight spots. Lol. I got short kranskys for fingers.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
Yeah your the one that got that retched bolt on roofys motor, think you are the tight spot bolt king markie haha!!.

Good luck with it all i know after working in roofys that the thermostat is in a bugger of a spot on these things. Just need to pull a bit of stuff out to get to it i guess definatly not a 5 minute job.

mudski
11th April 2016, 07:54 PM
Hoping to pull most of the cooling system out tomorrow,
Pretty sure the Aux battery needs to be removed as well.
If someone could confirm it,
@ Mark I do have a new water pump here but Im thinking
if it aint broke you know the rest

Nah john, if you have a new pump mate. Put the effer in! Last thing you want. Well I want, lol, is to remove all the chit just to put the pump in if what we do doesn't work. Atleast you will know that you have all these new parts on the motor. While the rad is out the pump is fairly accessible. Its all apart. Why not? I would really be putting a new pump on mate. Regardless.
But its up to you.


Yeah your the one that got that retched bolt on roofys motor, think you are the tight spot bolt king markie haha!!.

Good luck with it all i know after working in roofys that the thermostat is in a bugger of a spot on these things. Just need to pull a bit of stuff out to get to it i guess definatly not a 5 minute job.

I think that was just pure luck Rossco....Jaysee is removing the housing and other parts off tomorrow. Lets see how he fairs....

jay see
11th April 2016, 07:55 PM
Yeah your the one that got that retched bolt on roofys motor, think you are the tight spot bolt king markie haha!!.

Good luck with it all i know after working in roofys that the thermostat is in a bugger of a spot on these things. Just need to pull a bit of stuff out to get to it i guess definatly not a 5 minute job.

Looks like I'm going to learn a thing or two on these motors..

Hodge
11th April 2016, 07:58 PM
Mate your welcome to come along and just talk chit, or pass a spanner.
We need Rossco though really. Hes got long skinny fingers. Great for accessing bolts in tight spots. Lol. I got short kranskys for fingers.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

Might pop in say hello and assist, I might be heading west side to pick up some rims anyway so works out.

MudRunnerTD
11th April 2016, 09:44 PM
Nah john, if you have a new pump mate. Put the effer in! Last thing you want. Well I want, lol, is to remove all the chit just to put the pump in if what we do doesn't work. Atleast you will know that you have all these new parts on the motor. While the rad is out the pump is fairly accessible. Its all apart. Why not? I would really be putting a new pump on mate. Regardless.
But its up to you.



I think that was just pure luck Rossco....Jaysee is removing the housing and other parts off tomorrow. Lets see how he fairs....

What he said!! If you have s new pump now is the time to fit it. Keep the old one as a spare.

Good job Mark and others for lending a hand.

mudski
12th April 2016, 03:07 PM
Any updates? How many times did Jaysee swear? Lol.

threedogs
12th April 2016, 03:13 PM
A huge thank you to Jay see [john] he went above what I needed
It was fun pulling everything out just to reach the stat bolts,,, but
Please to say the new thermostat is in, I even drilled and tapped
a hole to fit the water temp sender back flushed it as well.Having a
long talk with John. Im thinking its just my radiator all along, and me killing it further.
Only the radiator to be installed now so not much work at all
weather permitting. Again a huge thanks to Jaysee and the Forum.

mudski
12th April 2016, 03:14 PM
I am still pickup up the new rad tomorrow John?

threedogs
12th April 2016, 03:27 PM
Yes please I rang him this morning to confirm,
he says he has one put aside for you to pick up
in the morning sometime

jay see
12th April 2016, 03:31 PM
Any updates? How many times did Jaysee swear? Lol.

Only when I was trying to put the belt back on... Quick look at the manual and no more swearing.

Best tip was to remove the alternator, after that pretty straight forward. Small hands do help.

Will see how the morning goes, if I can I pop over and watch you work.....

Sir Roofy
12th April 2016, 03:32 PM
A huge thank you to Jay see [john] he went above what I needed
It was fun pulling everything out just to reach the stat bolts,,, but
Please to say the new thermostat is in, I even drilled and tapped
a hole to fit the water temp sender back flushed it as well.Having a
long talk with John. Im thinking its just my radiator all along, and me killing it further.
Only the radiator to be installed now so not much work at all
weather permitting. Again a huge thanks to Jaycee and the Forum.

So John was it jammed open shut or sealed was there any copper mat at all there ????

threedogs
12th April 2016, 03:57 PM
No nothing block, so thinking its been
blocking the tubes in the radiator, killing it with kindness

BigRAWesty
12th April 2016, 05:08 PM
Let's hope ey..
I'm guessing water wouldn't be helping either.

threedogs
12th April 2016, 05:26 PM
Yeah I didnt discover it till about 200k on the clock
I stuffed the alternator at 185 K and I have 220k on
the clock now. So about 35k with just water, after
a very short test period I will be filling it with some
Green coolant

Irish
12th April 2016, 06:09 PM
Thats great to hear 3D! Hopefully its all good once the new rad goes in.

macca
13th April 2016, 02:21 PM
Great to read some good news that has headed your way, fingers crossed and everything else!

threedogs
13th April 2016, 02:26 PM
Big thanks to Mudski [Mark] for fitting my rad he certainly
know his way around a ZD30 reckon he should by now eh LOL
Also a another big thanks to Hodge {eric} for supervising
Well rads in coolant is is and no problems to date
I still need to take it for a drive, but I think the problems have been solved

Again a HUGE THANKS to all that helped me,, physically it was impossible for me to do it

Hodge
13th April 2016, 02:57 PM
No need to thank me John. I rocked up in time to help put the last few screws and watch Mark bleed the system...
Well done to Mark and Jaysee helping this bloke out. I saw the state the rad was in and I'm confident new one will sort his issues out.

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lucus30
13th April 2016, 03:28 PM
Good work guys. I hope this sorts your issues 3ds


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mudski
13th April 2016, 03:57 PM
Yeah the old radiator was fubar. Thats for sure.
Just give the cooling system a flush in a few days or so John. So make sure you get all copper shit out.
If ya need a hand. Give me a hoy.

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Winnie
13th April 2016, 04:01 PM
Yeah the old radiator was fubar. Thats for sure.
Just give the cooling system a flush in a few days or so John. So make sure you get all copper shit out.
If ya need a hand. Give me a hoy.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

Was it damaged internally or externally?

mudski
13th April 2016, 04:03 PM
It had that copper crap on the outside of teh core. So i assume it was spewing out a few holes too more than likely created from corrosion on the inside. Which upon inspection. Didnt look real flash.

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threedogs
13th April 2016, 04:05 PM
Heres something funny went for a spin temps started climbing
so I returned home only to see some green stuff pouring out.
Lift the bonnet and what do I find,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, lol
the hose to the overflow tank was not on so I put it back on and tightened it
topped it up, will go for another drive late lol lol

Hodge
13th April 2016, 05:21 PM
So which hose exactly? The long one that goes from bottom of overflow bottle to the top of header tank ???
We done that one up after flushing the copper shit out of the overflow bottle... Anyway keep an eye out on it.

threedogs
13th April 2016, 05:29 PM
Thats the one from the outlet on top of radiator to the overflow bottle.

threedogs
13th April 2016, 05:32 PM
Was it damaged internally or externally?

From what you see it looked ok when removed from the Patrol, straight away
you knew this was the cause of the problem, so I'd sy internally it was rooted

jay see
13th April 2016, 08:26 PM
Expect a report on the temps in the next few days john, with good results...

mudski
13th April 2016, 10:56 PM
Heres something funny went for a spin temps started climbing
so I returned home only to see some green stuff pouring out.
Lift the bonnet and what do I find,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, lol
the hose to the overflow tank was not on so I put it back on and tightened it
topped it up, will go for another drive late lol lol
Gawd i hope it was only that.

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threedogs
14th April 2016, 11:37 AM
Nah all gone to shite, needed to go to the Docs 22k kept eye on temps they were 88 so not too concerned.
On the way home that when things went pair shaped stopped at a set of lights and had steam pouring out the
scoop temps were still fine , but obvious there was a problem.
It seemed to be coming from where the thermostat housing fits. It boiled just as I got home.
at my wits end over this,,,,Its not coming out where I drilled and tapped the sender hole.
Ive got a heap of appointments coming up as well

Question why doesn't motor go into limp or something when engine over heats

taslucas
14th April 2016, 11:58 AM
On the way home that when things went pair shaped stopped at a set of lights and had steam pouring out the
scoop temps were still fine , but obvious there was a problem

Question why doesn't motor go into limp or something when engine over heats

Did you say the engine temps were fine though?

>>>tappin from tassie

threedogs
14th April 2016, 12:25 PM
Yep temps were a tad high but stable and recovering I think the thermostat housing
is loose or no in correctly, Prik of a spot but that my thoughts on it
Either way coolant is pouring out

Hodge
14th April 2016, 12:32 PM
Nah all gone to shite, needed to go to the Docs 22k kept eye on temps they were 88 so not too concerned.
On the way home that when things went pair shaped stopped at a set of lights and had steam pouring out the
scoop temps were still fine , but obvious there was a problem.
It seemed to be coming from where the thermostat housing fits. It boiled just as I got home.
at my wits end over this,,,,Its not coming out where I drilled and tapped the sender hole.
Ive got a heap of appointments coming up as well

Question why doesn't motor go into limp or something when engine over heats
Only protection is it cuts the air con out I thought...
But you said Temps were fine so it didn't over heat ???
Somethings going on...

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threedogs
14th April 2016, 12:50 PM
yeah I think its the thermostat housing unfortunately
I've never had steam and coolant from that area before
This may be the reason my temps were a tad high?
what ever reason it all has to come out again ,

Anyone free??

Rossco
14th April 2016, 12:56 PM
Ah bugger 3d, especially as those things are such a prick to get too. If it lost coolant would explain temps going up. Did you guys put some goo on when it went back together?

threedogs
14th April 2016, 01:00 PM
No it was an O ring job no one suggested to use any goo ?

@ Hodge it took from my place to the western ring road
on Ballarat rd to get to 83 degrees about 8-9 kays its always
taken a long time to get to temp

Maxhead
14th April 2016, 01:35 PM
No it was an O ring job no one suggested to use any goo ?



I thought Mark did


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66203&stc=1

Bob
14th April 2016, 01:45 PM
The O Ring might have been damaged when replacing.

I can possibly get down over the Weekend to help.
Will be in touch

threedogs
14th April 2016, 02:45 PM
Thanks mate, I have a friend who does only Nissan Patrols and he told me not to use Goo,
So I went with the guy who does this all the time, no disrespect to Mark

jay see
14th April 2016, 04:02 PM
Well don't I feel like a total dick...

I do recall thinking to myself that those two bolts where bloody tight, obviously I didn't tighten them up enough.

Going back to work tonight. Do have the weekend off, but I know that Saturday and Sunday are no good.

I've got your number john. I'll be on touch, maybe Friday around lunchtime. That's if you want to give me another shot.

Sorry mate...

threedogs
14th April 2016, 04:40 PM
Im good to go anytime that suits you, at least it wont take as long this time lol

Cool Ill get my chair ready lol

threedogs
14th April 2016, 05:10 PM
The O Ring might have been damaged when replacing.

I can possibly get down over the Weekend to help.
Will be in touch

Its not an "O" ring as such its a rubber ring that clips over the outer edge,

jay see
14th April 2016, 06:21 PM
Tomorrow lunchtime, I'll do as much as I can, but will have to leave to go pick up my kids. Will finish off on Monday morning.

Irish
14th April 2016, 07:43 PM
John, I should be finished my work thing in Werribee by about 1pm on Saturday. I can swing by after if you are still needing a spare set of hands.

threedogs
15th April 2016, 10:52 AM
Sounds good mate Ill see how much we can get done today.

threedogs
15th April 2016, 03:10 PM
Was all going well till the thermostat housing stripped, No biggie as I thought I had an
8mm heli coil thread repair kit in the shed, dug it out and it turned out to be 5/16th
Cant get one from the metric man till monday lunch time.
So my hopes of being ready so I can see my surgeon on Tuesday morning have been dashed.
Oh well will have to taxi it. Maybe Bursons or repco

mudski
15th April 2016, 03:32 PM
I do have this other housing here mate. I can shoot it across sometime tomorrow. Unless someone is going past Mill Park to your way.

Kimbo63
15th April 2016, 03:32 PM
Could you tap it out to 10mm John might get you out the sh|#

jay see
15th April 2016, 03:42 PM
Yeah, what a pita, would have it had it going for sure, much easier the second time around. John has a 5/16th helicoil but no bolts. I had to leave to do the school pick up. He is looking at a couple different options.

Winnie
15th April 2016, 03:43 PM
Yeah, what a pita, would have it had it going for sure, much easier the second time around. John has a 5/16th helicoil but no bolts. I had to leave to do the school pick up. He is looking at a couple different options.
Was it loose?

mudski
15th April 2016, 03:46 PM
Was it loose?
Sounds like the thread stripped and wasnt holding the housing on tight enough.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

jay see
15th April 2016, 03:48 PM
Was it loose?

Both bolts were done up using a 3/8 drive with a small extension, couldn't get enough leverage. Put a longer bar onto it and got another 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn, then did the other one and it pulled the thread.

Felt guilty leaving him like that.

threedogs
15th April 2016, 03:51 PM
Yeah I would say the bottom bolt could've been tighter.
I have a gazillion tools here so my son is scouting around his mates
which most are in the Auto trade, and maybe he can pick up
a couple of heli coils fo me

All good John as I said two dissimilar metals causes corrosion
Plus they fuse themselves together, worked on alloy motor bikes
for way too long to worry about a stripped thread. we can repair it
and stronger than new

jay see
15th April 2016, 03:56 PM
So my hopes of being ready so I can see my surgeon on Tuesday morning have been dashed.
Oh well will have to taxi it. Maybe Bursons or repco

We'll get you going.

Like I told you, I can get back to you on Monday morning.
Keep us posted if your got everything ready I could possibly get out to you tomorrow morning, as it's not much to do it shouldn't take too long.

threedogs
15th April 2016, 04:02 PM
What I think I have is some stuff I can put in the old thread
let it harden and then just re tap it, but I think a heli coil
would be a better fix, No rush now lol
Is it called chemi weld or similar

jay see
15th April 2016, 04:06 PM
Sounds like the thread stripped and wasnt holding the housing on tight enough.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

Yeah, pulled the tread out before it was tight. The top bolt was done first with no issues, tried to do the same and it went pear shaped.

Kinda relieved that it was no ones fault, just one of those things.

threedogs
15th April 2016, 04:09 PM
Can anyone confirm if that chemi weld putty would be up to the task

jay see
15th April 2016, 04:09 PM
What I think I have is some stuff I can put in the old thread
let it harden and then just re tap it, but I think a heli coil
would be a better fix, No rush now lol
Is it called chemi weld or similar

No no no.

Helicoil or Mark's housing.

mudski
15th April 2016, 04:13 PM
No no no.

Helicoil or Mark's housing.
Yeah dont cut corners John... Helicoil will work fine.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

threedogs
15th April 2016, 04:16 PM
Cool ,all work was done using a 3/8 socket set either that
or my 1/4 drive set I had,

Mark hasnt got a housing has he John??

threedogs
15th April 2016, 04:19 PM
I do have this other housing here mate. I can shoot it across sometime tomorrow. Unless someone is going past Mill Park to your way.

That would be awesome Mark when
I repair my one Ill drop it back to you.
Sorry didnt see this earlier

jay see
15th April 2016, 04:20 PM
Can anyone confirm if that chemi weld putty would be up to the task

As far as I know chemi weld goes in the radiator.

threedogs
15th April 2016, 04:23 PM
Yeah must of got the name wrong doesn't matter now as we wont be using it,,,,,lol

threedogs
15th April 2016, 04:27 PM
I do have this other housing here mate. I can shoot it across sometime tomorrow. Unless someone is going past Mill Park to your way.

Bumped for any takers please...........

paulyg
15th April 2016, 06:22 PM
Don't know about the chemi weld, JB weld might work.

the evil twin
15th April 2016, 06:42 PM
If you want to fill, drill and retap then Devcon is the go... we used it in the RAAF and that shit is awesome.
Can be drilled, tapped or machined
Even rebuilt a busted water pump housing with it on my Ski Boat years ago
but....
it isn't cheap and would be only if you cannot get a housing thingy

http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_107.pdf

jay see
15th April 2016, 06:43 PM
Could you tap it out to 10mm John might get you out the sh|#

Don't think that would work.
The holes that are on the engine housing would need to be drilled out bigger. Probably could as a last resort.

jay see
15th April 2016, 06:46 PM
If you want to fill, drill and retap then Devcon is the go... we used it in the RAAF and that shit is awesome.
Can be drilled, tapped or machined
Even rebuilt a busted water pump housing with it on my Ski Boat years ago
but....
it isn't cheap and would be only if you cannot get a housing thingy

http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_107.pdf

I've used this stuff when I was an apprentice. As hard a steel and yes we did machine it on a lathe.

Irish
16th April 2016, 07:12 AM
Bumped for any takers please...........

I can do it around 1pm, will need both of you to PM me your addresses though.

threedogs
16th April 2016, 08:09 AM
I can do it around 1pm, will need both of you to PM me your addresses though.

PM sent and thanks for this
Its OK Mark is dropping it off
this morning

threedogs
16th April 2016, 08:10 AM
If you want to fill, drill and retap then Devcon is the go... we used it in the RAAF and that shit is awesome.
Can be drilled, tapped or machined
Even rebuilt a busted water pump housing with it on my Ski Boat years ago
but....
it isn't cheap and would be only if you cannot get a housing thingy

http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_107.pdf

I have some 2 part stuff they use at QANTAS so must be a similar product

will have a replacement housing this arvo so this wont be required

jay see
16th April 2016, 08:56 AM
It's turning out to be a group effort. What a head fark for a fairly simple job.
Good onya Mark and Irish.
Sorry I can't get out there this weekend John

BigRAWesty
16th April 2016, 09:01 AM
Atleast you know you have pressure in the system..
The boys will get it sorted bloke..

threedogs
16th April 2016, 12:02 PM
Another big thanks to Mark, what with trying to sell his house and all.
Anyway new thermostat housing fitted, I tested the stat and it worked fine.
Now only the alternator , shroud and fluids to finish oh and the viscous fan, lol

Bloodyaussie
16th April 2016, 01:00 PM
You can thank me later......lol

Irish
16th April 2016, 02:10 PM
It's turning out to be a group effort. What a head fark for a fairly simple job.
Good onya Mark and Irish.
Sorry I can't get out there this weekend John

Don't thank me mate, all Mark today, he wore John out before I had a chance to rock up.

threedogs
16th April 2016, 02:34 PM
You can thank me later......lol

Caravan puller,,,,,,lol

threedogs
16th April 2016, 02:36 PM
Don't thank me mate, all Mark today, he wore John out before I had a chance to rock up.

Would have been no good it started raining as soon as Mark left

Bloodyaussie
16th April 2016, 02:38 PM
Caravan puller,,,,,,lol

You mean motivator dont you.....

threedogs
16th April 2016, 02:42 PM
oh yeah got it wrong thanks BA

jay see
16th April 2016, 04:59 PM
Thanks Mark.
I feel like I probably caused more trouble than what I fixed..

In hindsight the thermostat didn't have to be touched, but at least now you should be all good, well let's hope so. Was the thermostat that you tested the old one?

Spent the morning cleaning and preparing for an open house inspection today and off to dinner soon.
Tomorrow is sports all day, so I do apologize John for not being able to finish off before Monday. Just felt like I needed to explain myself.

threedogs
16th April 2016, 05:11 PM
Nah all good mate family first, Mark only had time to drop that new housing over.
IMO it looked stronger it was different thats for sure, but its in, and bottom hose fitted
I drilled and tapped a hole for the sender so I might run that wire to the dash and see what happens
As for the thermostat I threw both into a pot and both opened at the same time.
Dont mind me I thought it was sunday lol lol

mudski
16th April 2016, 07:42 PM
I would really like that new water pump to go in. If i had time John i wouldnt have given you a choice in this :)
The pump itselfs is probably fine but the viscous hub i am slightly concerned of.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

jay see
17th April 2016, 01:06 AM
I would really like that new water pump to go in. If i had time John i wouldnt have given you a choice in this :)
The pump itselfs is probably fine but the viscous hub i am slightly concerned of.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

You gave the hub a spin without the fan on, right?
I tried it both without the fan and with.
It does have resistance. I like them to spin one blade around, his does one and a bit.... With the fan....

Irish
17th April 2016, 07:01 AM
Nah all good mate family first, Mark only had time to drop that new housing over.
IMO it looked stronger it was different thats for sure, but its in, and bottom hose fitted
I drilled and tapped a hole for the sender so I might run that wire to the dash and see what happens
As for the thermostat I threw both into a pot and both opened at the same time.
Dont mind me I thought it was sunday lol lol

I was wondering why your PM was titled "Sunday". Lol.

threedogs
17th April 2016, 11:15 AM
Yeah for some reason I was a day out [meds] missus goes out saturday night,
so I asked why she was going out Sunday, Damn now to get that day back some how lol
After the first time with John I was in a world of pain and walking like an 80 yo, took my meds
which in turn helped my pain but took me to gar gar land lol

threedogs
18th April 2016, 08:42 AM
Should be back on the road soon thanks to all invovled.
Don't know what's worse losing your wallet/phone or
not having wheels????,
Not having wheels is right up there
Jaysee is coming this morning hooh ray!!

Hodge
18th April 2016, 09:05 AM
Good to hear it's about to all b fixed for ya TD! Well done to Mark and Jaysee.
Some unusually high temps next 2-3 days for April. So that should test the system a bit once it's all together.

threedogs
18th April 2016, 12:26 PM
Yeah all togaether a huge thanks to all invovled, now after going for spin around the block
my heater hoses have turned up their toes, will be a quick fix once its cooled,, as it looks like
the OE clamps have cut the oe hose>
I have enough hose to cut it and re do it properly, Going to buy a ship load of worm
drive clamps and remove all OE clamps
Again a big thanks to John and Mark and all the others

jay see
18th April 2016, 12:55 PM
Just as I was leaving, I mentioned to John that this may be why his engine temps take a long time to get to operating temperature, it's losing pressure. He did point out that this is the same spot where it was pouring out the other day, right above the dump pipe this will explains all the steam.

Again I had to leave it unfinished. In bed now just about to go sleepies.

Best to pull off both heater hoses at both ends to check, but it's definitely one. As you touch it it's squirting.

Keep us informed John.

threedogs
18th April 2016, 01:06 PM
Cut the last 50mm off just to get me mobile, Thats the first time I've
had a problem with the heater hose so maybe the new radiator made this surface.
Anyway it was a 5 min fix. I'm already onto Mark about replacements

EDIT since Ive owned it the temp has been very slow to rise.
OE gauge shows its at temp after 4k, now the ecu-talk would
show 62 degrees at the same time.

threedogs
18th April 2016, 03:18 PM
Having a heap of Hi-density foam I sliced some and forced it between the
radiator and the rad support panel along the top doing the sides will be
trickier But Ill get there. one less job lol

taslucas
18th April 2016, 04:05 PM
So what was the actual original problem?
A leaking thermostat housing?

>>>tappin from tassie

Hodge
18th April 2016, 04:57 PM
So what was the actual original problem?
A leaking thermostat housing?

>>>tappin from tassie

I think it was the radiator... But i'm curious to see whether it was that. With everything plugged up now and still overheats well then ...

Also now your cars back on the road John, will see you at Roofys party !!!!??

jay see
18th April 2016, 05:10 PM
So what was the actual original problem?
A leaking thermostat housing?

>>>tappin from tassie

Not think so, the bolts were pretty tight even coming out, that's what I think stuffed the thread.

John did test both thermostats and both worked, and the radiator didn't look all that good, so I reckon Hodge might be right.
New radiator, new cap, new thermostat, clutch fan good resistance, water pump no leaks, so if there's a problem now it's the tiniest of things or its internal.

Have you gone for a spin yet John?
Please tell me that's its good.

threedogs
19th April 2016, 11:57 AM
ROAD REPORT::::::: went to my surgeons this morning about 35K in morning traffic. {Opposite RMH}
played up all the way but stop start traffic helped keep temps stable.
The drive home was a different matter it just got hotter and hotter, so pulled
over near Bunnings on Ballarat road for those that know, Let it cool a touch
and filled up with water, up the road same thing happen, Im really really happy
at this stage. lol So I decided to swap the rad fan relay for the aircon, doing this
enabled me to drive normally on the way home with temps staying even and
even recovering on the last 5 k of my trip. Me thinks that rad fan has not been working
But happy now I can drive it through the gears, without it overheating

Re Roofys Party Ive booked a seat with Mego, but all depends how Im feeling.
AH just to sit in those seats oooooohoooooohoo

Hodge
19th April 2016, 12:22 PM
I'm unsure whether I should say " good to hear" because as far as I can understand your message it's still overheating ???

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

threedogs
19th April 2016, 12:24 PM
Since I swapped that relay over all was good can just drive normal now.
Weird but true Ha Ha believe it or not lol

Hodge
19th April 2016, 12:27 PM
I'm glad you're happy lol. Good outcome. ..

Just still confused. ...
So swapping the relay done what ? Made your aircon fan run all the time hence cooling everything?
So your vicious fan hub maybe shot then .

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threedogs
19th April 2016, 01:12 PM
Ive got no Idea TBH everyone said my viscous fan was OK
Need to pick up the missus at 3 this arvo not a big trip
but could only do 100 mtrs before that
Maybe it burped itself good no idea

FYI I did have a heli coil kit but for 5/16th
not 8mm, bloody Chev.
I will have an 8mm one by the end of the week,
to repair my thermostat housing as both holes
were flogged out.

Now to wait until Jaysee has some free time so I can fit some diff breathers all around.
That goes for anyone in the area I have plenty here dont think Ill run out soon LOL

mudnut
19th April 2016, 02:55 PM
ROAD REPORT::::::: Re Roofys Party Ive booked a seat with Mego, but all depends how Im feeling.
AH just to sit in those seats oooooohoooooohoo

Are you sure he's gunna let anyone actually sit in those seats. I bet he relegates everyone to the back seat unless they sign a disclaimer:)

Hodge
19th April 2016, 03:00 PM
Are you sure he's gunna let anyone actually sit in those seats. I bet he relegates everyone to the back seat unless they sign a disclaimer:)
This is the reason why Mick has the original 3rd row seats still in the rear...

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threedogs
19th April 2016, 03:46 PM
Ill take a seat cover oh for the love of you know who its only leather.lol


On another note just went and picked up the missus 4k there 4k back
reasonably warm day with no issues.
Still need to try it on the freeway when I pick up the Helicoil set?

Hodge
19th April 2016, 03:49 PM
Ill take a seat cover oh for the love of you know who its only leather.lol


On another note just went and picked up the missus 4k there 4k back
reasonably warm day with no issues.
Still need to try it on the freeway when I pick up the Helicoil set?

Nice. Take it on the highway and flog on. Only way to test it really... Limping it around the corner and back won't show anything.

mudski
19th April 2016, 03:58 PM
Well im lost with whats happening the same as Hodge. The a/c fan shouldnt come on at all unless the a/c is on.
Unless yours is different...
Seems to me the viscous hub is not engaging. Dunno....

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

jay see
19th April 2016, 05:03 PM
Well im lost with whats happening the same as Hodge. The a/c fan shouldnt come on at all unless the a/c is on.
Unless yours is different...
Seems to me the viscous hub is not engaging. Dunno....

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

Me too......:confused:


Mark, when you span the viscous hub it had no belt or plastic fan on correct. Spinning it like that it's on the bearing. With everything back on and stone cold it moved one blade.

A/c fan is only meant to go on with air con regardless of temp or when temp is high 90 or 100 degree.

jay see
19th April 2016, 05:06 PM
When I get a chance I'm going to go back to the start and read it all.

Something doesn't add up...

mudski
19th April 2016, 05:12 PM
Me too......:confused:


Mark, when you span the viscous hub it had no belt or plastic fan on correct. Spinning it like that it's on the bearing. With everything back on and stone cold it moved one blade.

A/c fan is only meant to go on with air con regardless of temp or when temp is high 90 or 100 degree.

Correct John. I spun the hub with no fan on it. I did it to check if it was lose. There is a procedure to check if the hub is engaging or not but I can't remember tbh how it goes. I'd have to look it up.

jay see
19th April 2016, 05:19 PM
I only know of the spin test, but it must be cold if spinning when hot you can see that is spins alot more freely.

Bob
19th April 2016, 05:35 PM
Correct John. I spun the hub with no fan on it. I did it to check if it was lose. There is a procedure to check if the hub is engaging or not but I can't remember tbh how it goes. I'd have to look it up.

The following taken off another site


Re: How do I test a viscous fan hub?

Without taking it off the vehicle, the fan hub should be locked up for about 30 secs to a minute on start-up from cold, then it should let the fan free-wheel until the temp rises above normal; so if you start it from cold and watch/listen for that 30-60 secs of engaged fan before it slackens off, then leave it sit there on a fast idle for a while with the heater on high (A/C off), maybe even put a piece of cardboard in front of the grille/radiator to limit air flow & encourage it to reach operating temp & then go over, the fan should cut in again and you should be able to see/feel/hear it when it cuts in again. Let it do it's cool down thing & then shut the engine down, the fan should stop pretty much straight away if the temp is at or above normal, if it spins on for more than one rotation on shutdown or you haven't been able to see/feel/hear the airflow increase as above, the viscous fan hub isn't doing it's thing properly.

the evil twin
19th April 2016, 08:00 PM
I don't know how many times Yendor or I have to post this but anyway...

Under normal loads and conditions the A/C fan has bugger all to do for overheating.
You can take it off and hoik it down a long drop if you want.
Later model 'trols don't even have them.

Where fitted the A/C fan should run under two conditions;
Either the A/C is selected
OR
The coolant is above 100 degrees C

When the A/C fan starts running with the A/C OFF it means the engine is already starting to overheat because the coolant sensor has detected that it is at 100 degrees AFTER it has passed thru the radiator.
Ergo, unless it is a stinker of a day or you are loaded up then something is wrong

Clunk
19th April 2016, 08:12 PM
I don't know how many times Yendor or I have to post this but anyway...

Under normal loads and conditions the A/C fan has bugger all to do for overheating.
You can take it off and hoik it down a long drop if you want.
Later model 'trols don't even have them.

Where fitted the A/C fan should run under two conditions;
Either the A/C is selected
OR
The coolant is above 100 degrees C

When the A/C fan starts running with the A/C OFF it means the engine is already starting to overheat because the coolant sensor has detected that it is at 100 degrees AFTER it has passed thru the radiator.
Ergo, unless it is a stinker of a day or you are loaded up then something is wrong
Probably a few times more [emoji6]

mudski
19th April 2016, 09:15 PM
I don't know how many times Yendor or I have to post this but anyway...

Under normal loads and conditions the A/C fan has bugger all to do for overheating.
You can take it off and hoik it down a long drop if you want.
Later model 'trols don't even have them.

Where fitted the A/C fan should run under two conditions;
Either the A/C is selected
OR
The coolant is above 100 degrees C

When the A/C fan starts running with the A/C OFF it means the engine is already starting to overheat because the coolant sensor has detected that it is at 100 degrees AFTER it has passed thru the radiator.
Ergo, unless it is a stinker of a day or you are loaded up then something is wrong
My coolant temp has been over 100c many times and the fan never comes on. Now whether my particular model is designed not to do this or not. I dont know. I might go for a drive tomorrow up the hills behind me and give it a flogging and get the water temp over 100c, which wont be hard, stop and double check on this.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

jay see
19th April 2016, 09:35 PM
My coolant temp has been over 100c many times and the fan never comes on. Now whether my particular model is designed not to do this or not. I dont know. I might go for a drive tomorrow up the hills behind me and give it a flogging and get the water temp over 100c, which wont be hard, stop and double check on this.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Before you go put on the air con as if it's a 40 degree day and have a look at the fan, can't remember if you said that it works only with the air con on or never.

the evil twin
19th April 2016, 09:58 PM
My coolant temp has been over 100c many times and the fan never comes on. Now whether my particular model is designed not to do this or not. I dont know. I might go for a drive tomorrow up the hills behind me and give it a flogging and get the water temp over 100c, which wont be hard, stop and double check on this.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

I'm sure it has... certainly mine did many times in the WA summers

The 'coolant temp' temp isn't measured in the same place or by the same sensor as the Coolant Temp 100 degree switch (if fitted)

threedogs
20th April 2016, 08:56 AM
I think I just "burped" a bubble out of it ,{air pocket}

Clunk
20th April 2016, 03:09 PM
So what's new?

threedogs
20th April 2016, 04:13 PM
So what's new?

So far sits on 88 and recovers a bit at lights.
I need to pick that heli coil kit this week and
that requires some freeway work.
I cant understand a few things after fitting all these new bits.
Like why it boiled every 100 mtrs, where as before I have done the same
trip with no dramas

Glad you got that rock out of your nostrill can be damn annoying lol

jay see
20th April 2016, 05:27 PM
So far sits on 88 and recovers a bit at lights.

Strange, I would have thought that it would get hotter just sitting there with no airflow.
If it's still getting hot under load could it be an internal problem?

nissannewby
20th April 2016, 09:46 PM
Strange, I would have thought that it would get hotter just sitting there with no airflow.
If it's still getting hot under load could it be an internal problem?

Its all still pointing that way. My view hasnt changed from the start. Unfortunately you need to probably rip the head off before you cause more issues. If it keeps getting worse piston damage can occur along with the possibility of bending a rod.

To start go and get a gas test done.

Rumcajs
21st April 2016, 07:57 PM
So far sits on 88 and recovers a bit at lights.
I need to pick that heli coil kit this week and
that requires some freeway work.
I cant understand a few things after fitting all these new bits.
Like why it boiled every 100 mtrs, where as before I have done the same
trip with no dramas



"Air lock" will do that, ZD30 is notorious for that, it is especially adept at doing it once you load the engine up a bit, idling or fast idling it will never do it.

One way is to stop every 100 m to purge air out of it then top up the difference, LOL.

I still don't follow what was the original problem after 24 pages....

Regards

jay see
21st April 2016, 11:57 PM
So far sits on 88 and recovers a bit at lights.

88 is no where overheating.

lucus30
22nd April 2016, 07:11 AM
88 is no where overheating.

Agree anything under 100 is fine. I think oem thermostats don't fully open until 95

the evil twin
22nd April 2016, 10:40 AM
88 is no where overheating.

Agree... indeed if it doesn't get to 88 I would be worried

threedogs
22nd April 2016, 11:30 AM
So went for a drive to pay a bill and pick up a heli coil kit
a bit of freeway work all fine then steam pouring out the scoop.
Bummer split the other heater hose, so cut the dodgey bit off
and push it back on and used some worm drive clamps that
were in the car, I HATE those ones you need to push together
to remove Grrrr,,,,,, Any way fixed on the side of the road and topped it up
and away we went, Only took 5 mins, I have the Gates PN from
Mudski and it was on my to get list,
Oh temps were great not sure Im back Ill replace those hoses first lol

Hodge
22nd April 2016, 12:31 PM
So that's a second hose that gave way in a week. Why now and not before? More pressure in the system ?

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

mudnut
22nd April 2016, 12:48 PM
Most likely. After I had the head done and the radiator repaired, it was only a short time before the water pump seal gave out. i would also replace the pressure cap on the system just to make sure it is releasing at the right pressure.

threedogs
22nd April 2016, 12:52 PM
It recorded a 76 c on the way home , plus for some sillt reason my temp
gauge which normally shows just 40c now shows 47c go figure lol

BillsGU
22nd April 2016, 12:58 PM
I made that mistake last year. I replaced all my radiator hoses before a long trip to the North and WA - but didn't replace the heater hoses. Yep - one split - and they have weird bends and such that you just can't use a bit of straight hose to get you out of trouble. I was stuck in a small town for two days while hoses were shipped. Lots of people carry spare radiator hoses but forget about the heater hoses - which if anything - are harder to find in the middle of no where.

threedogs
22nd April 2016, 01:09 PM
The two heater hoses were in very poor condition , at least I had enough meat[hose]
to push back on the pipe. They will be replaced asap. along with all those stupid OE hose clamps
Ill replace all of them with SS worm drive clamps easier all around imo

mudnut
22nd April 2016, 01:12 PM
I have used this stuff to repair a radiator on a trip to the middle of nowhere. The radiator failed in another spot about three months later.

http://www.rapid-fix.com/ It will repair a radiator hose.

Expensive for what it is but a bloody life saver.

Stropp
22nd April 2016, 01:31 PM
yes i had a leak that i couldnt find for about 3 months and it turned out to be the heater hose, i used a straight hose until i got some genuine hoses and replaced the lot.

threedogs
22nd April 2016, 02:09 PM
I still think it goes too well to be something nasty.
Got a few ppl to look at it when they have some free time
Anyway Im mobile and thats all that matters ATM

the evil twin
22nd April 2016, 02:11 PM
I made that mistake last year. I replaced all my radiator hoses before a long trip to the North and WA - but didn't replace the heater hoses. Yep - one split - and they have weird bends and such that you just can't use a bit of straight hose to get you out of trouble. I was stuck in a small town for two days while hoses were shipped. Lots of people carry spare radiator hoses but forget about the heater hoses - which if anything - are harder to find in the middle of no where.

Uummm... why didn't you just cut out an inch or two of 'unsplit' hose and plug it?

Kimbo63
22nd April 2016, 02:29 PM
Or carry a couple of blanking caps better still fit a couple of taps on the outlets might even make the air conditioning run a bit cooler

BillsGU
22nd April 2016, 03:13 PM
Uummm... why didn't you just cut out an inch or two of 'unsplit' hose and plug it?

The hose split along almost its entire length and as it happened just as I was entering the town I coasted into the garage and the mechanic took over from there. Lucky it happened where it did or I would have had to muck about with it to get it going, or use my RACV total care to come to the rescue.

threedogs
22nd April 2016, 03:18 PM
Same here mine split long ways, Ive ordered new Gates hoses and pick them up
after the weekend. cost was $45 for one and $50 odd for the other.
for those interested the part numbers are 02-1153 and 02-1152, I brought them
through CBC bearings in Airport West