Rb30 starter motor and general electrical health.

[backtracks]

I've resorted to bashing the starter motor to get it going, it's time for some work. My rb30 is rock solid standard. 380,000 km. I want it to be rock solid reliable, good as new. So, new genuine or non genuine or can it be rebuilt ? While I'm at it the alternator ( non genuine I think, 250000 k ) , should ' I ' do a rebuild , brushes and bearings? While I'm on a roll, if money was almost no issue , how many electrical relays, wires, etc would you replace after early 25 years ? I'm a bit obsessed but the bucket list includes the canning etc ,oh I also want the car to last forever !!
Look forward to some sound advise. The RB30 section here is the best I've seen. Cheers and thanks.
( ps- low iPad battery, so if someone replies I might run out of juice ! )

[mudnut]

Patrolapart sell alternators that should slot straight in. Try to source some spare fusible links (the silicon coated wires near the battery) either from a wrecker or off the internet. I can understand that you wish to have a fresh unit to tour the more remote places, but if your engine is running well, why fix what ain't broke?

Does your current engine drink oil or use water? Have you done a compression test? if you have to do a timing belt I would say replace the water pump and thermostat if they also have a lot of ks on them. (Test that the new thermostat opens in a pot of boiling water, as I've had a brand new one fail).

If cash is no problem, and if you do get a reco engine, I would recommend getting the gearbox and transfer case checked and replace the clutch and spigot bearing too as the horsepower from a fresh engine will put strain on a worn components in the drive train

When touring remote places the cooling system has to be on tip top condition. Replace the hoses, have the radiator flushed and checked or replaced, and check the fan assembly etc.

There are way more experienced outback travellers than me, so pick their brains.

As for the electrics, carry out a careful examination of the loom for problems. Apparently the headlight circuit is prone to failure as the stock system doesn't have relays so the contacts in the switches on the steering column can get burnt or a film of carbon on them.

Check all of the earthing cables by undoing the lugs and cleaning under them with WD40 or similar. I have run a new earth wire to the body, trailer plug and chassis. Also a heavy one at the front of the vehicle.

Enjoy the ride.

[backtracks]

Thanks mudnut. I'm going to get someone else to do most of the work. Normally I use Aus4wd who know patrols backwards but I was thinking a bit of a job lot at an auto elec might be a better idea, hence a bit of a list. I like the idea of preventative maintenance, especially when I'm driving an old car occasionally in remote spots. It'll be in for body mounts soon too. It's particularly electrics I've got no idea on,so always open to ideas. Oh and tuning,and.....
Look forward to ready more of your RB30 posts. Cheers

[threedogs]

Fit a new alternator, re-do the old one wrap it in a cloth for the CSR trip.
Re new or replace your earth straps, Un-do all plugs inspect for poor or broken wires
and give a decent squirt with WD40 or similar. Do the battery terminals again
and spray with terminal gunk, you can tell the auto lec which ones need attention
Fit a new starter. re-co the old if you want to, Spray all electrical connections
with something like Lanotec which will seal connections from water ingress.
Great product 100 uses around the Patrol.
If doing the CSR check all nuts and bolts, there should be no reason to fit black bolts
onto a 4x4 always use zinc plated, the nuts holding your battery fast should be NYLOC
so they cant vibrate loose, its all the little things that make touring less painfull lol

Once its all done [the painful part] after that its just a visual check every oil change

[dom14]

I carry a spare dizzy, plugs, leads, ignition coil, alternator, starter motor, LPG converter, hoses, etc.
You can use EF-EL Falcon alternator(110 amp, comparing to the stock 60 amp one) with some minor modifications, which I did.
I will post all the details in a thread soon.
If the compression test/leakdown test comes out as good, I would leave the engine alone.
I just carry a head gasket with me, just in case.
I also carry a sodium silicate liquid in a bottle, just in case of cracked head or block, cracked radiator, etc.

[taslucas]

......what? Um did someone say rb30?

Please view this ad:

VL RB30 Entire turbo setup. minus ecu,
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hobart-cbd/engine-engine-parts-transmission/vl-rb30-entire-turbo-setup-minus-ecu/1108790006

Price: $800

>>>tappin from tassie

[dom14]

......what? Um did someone say rb30?

Please view this ad:

VL RB30 Entire turbo setup. minus ecu,
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hobart-cbd/engine-engine-parts-transmission/vl-rb30-entire-turbo-setup-minus-ecu/1108790006

Price: $800

>>>tappin from tassie

Too bad. It's gone. :)

[taslucas]

Didn't last long then.

>>>tappin from tassie

[Throbbinhood]

Didn't last long then.

>>>tappin from tassie

They never do :(