Intercooler/Pyro gauge advice

[Firetrol]

G'day I'm looking to get myself some boost/pyro gauges, can I hook up the pyro to my standard exhaust if I'm keeping it for the time being? Would it just be a case of getting an exhaust place to put a probe fitting in the existing exhaust?
I have also done an external inspection of the standard IC. There is definately some oily black residue coming out where the crimping join is on one end & underneath. The leaking doesn't seem huge but still evident. How urgent is replacing it?
After looking into a replacement IC I read about Tube & Fin or Bar & Plate cores. Are either of these better or worse than the other? I am only after a standard size replacement as I don't have the $1200 to only throw at an upgrade. Any advice on what I should be looking for?

[AB]

With the pyro you should really be getting a welded thread to the dump pipe so it's as close as possible to the turbo for accurate readings but you can DIY easily buy a probe with a clamp and ceramic washer and just drill a hole just after the dump pipe on the exhaust.

[Firetrol]

With the pyro you should really be getting a welded thread to the dump pipe so it's as close as possible to the turbo for accurate readings but you can DIY easily buy a probe with a clamp and ceramic washer and just drill a hole just after the dump pipe on the exhaust.

Thanks AB, might look into getting the welded thread done.

[AB]

Thanks AB, might look into getting the welded thread done. I've actually still got my clamp and ceramic fixing going to be honest. Still holding strong after so many years but...

But yes, do things properly mate.

As for your IC issue, I would put a new thread up just about that so people can see it better.

[Daveyboyjunior]

Hi Firetrol, what year is yours and do you have AC?
If you have AirCon, then forget a welded bung, you'll never get in there past the heat shield with all the pipe work to get to the mandrel bend off the back of the turbo.
This is what I did and it works, especially if you want to keep your exhaust for the time being.
You have to drill a 40mm hole in the heat shield to reveal the right spot just on the mandrel bend from the rear of the turbo, use a hole saw to do this. There should be enough clearance between heat shield and actual exhaust bend to do this and not damage the exhaust bend. Now you can see the bend exiting the turbo, choose a point on the bend to drill a (9mm) hole as square to the pipe as you can, be brave and go for it. My pyro has a digital gauge and came with a tapered compression fitting bush to take the probe which required an 1/8 thread tapped into the bend. To my surprise, the bend is quite thick walled and takes a tapped thread very well and therefore a welded bush in this case is overkill and certainly not possible to do on the vehicle. Because the bush is tapered, it makes a perfect gas tight seal when pinched up.
So...tools
40mm hole saw and pilot
9mm HSS drill bit
1/8 male tap bit and lube
I'll take some pics tomorrow to help this all make more sense...
Davey Boy

[Firetrol]

G'day Daveyboyjunior, mine is a 2010 with aircon. Thanks for your instructions & the photo's will definately help to paint the picture.
I haven't decided nor ordered my gauges as yet but they are next on the priority list depending on the longevity of my intercooler.
Your method sounds pretty good to me, I think I'll put it in as my no.1 option.

[Bigcol]

your intercooler "should be replaced" yes - but

always a "but"

as you are already driving it, and it is already leaking - another couple of weeks is not going to do any damage
best to get the EGT / Boost gauges in, then change the IC, then you will see the difference, as well as feel it

just my 0.02c worth

[threedogs]

I would be putting the IC as first of things to do, your exhaust bung should be about 100mm after the turbo,
which puts it right on the bend of the dump pipe, The heat sheild will be a PITA to remove. might be better
talking to an exhaust shop about doing it ,unless of course you can do it yourself,,, by a centigrade gauge too

[Daveyboyjunior]

When I get the pics up today you'll see my tapping is right where TD has said. It's a good point actually because any further away from the turbo, your readings won't be the same as everybody else's.
It's a good thing to do exactly the same as the other guys on here have done as regards boost and pyro, because the readings from the gauges you install will compare easily with others should you need further help and advice.
BTW my exhaust shop wouldn't even look at doing the front part of the exhaust because of the limited access in there. I would have had a welded bung done at the time otherwise.

[Bigcol]

BTW my exhaust shop wouldn't even look at doing the front part of the exhaust because of the limited access in there. I would have had a welded bung done at the time otherwise.

when I went to my local exhaust place, he said he would do it, but it would cost (mine is a TD42)

he takes the dump pipe off, then welds it, then re-fits it

dollars $$$$$$$$$$$$ are always a factor

[Firetrol]

Thanks for the info & advice fellas. Thinking I will get a new IC first once I figure out which one to go with.
After the IC is in I'll have a look at Daveyboyjunior's idea in terms of the Pyro. Any recommendations in terms of Which gauges to put in?
I found this on gumtree, depending on freight.

Autron Boost, EGT & Dual Battery Guages with pillar mount.,
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kempsey/other-parts-accessories/autron-boost-egt-dual-battery-guages-with-pillar-mount-/1102241746

Price: $600 Negotiable

Download the application from the Google Play Store.
http://goo.gl/7NzhP

[Bigcol]

Autron Boost, EGT & Dual Battery Guages with pillar mount.,
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kempsey/other-parts-accessories/autron-boost-egt-dual-battery-guages-with-pillar-mount-/1102241746

Price: $600 Negotiable




thats a good price - I know of someone over here in WA who is selling similar for the same price

and

the Autron Gauges are great - I have them and they pi$$ all over the previous gauges I have had

[Firetrol]

thats a good price - I know of someone over here in WA who is selling similar for the same price

and

the Autron Gauges are great - I have them and they pi$$ all over the previous gauges I have had

Ive sent him a query Bigcol in terms of the wiring condition etc. Anything I should be looking out for/asking.

[Hodge]

Autron are good gauges. The current redarc range (which have taken over from Autron) for that combo, are about $600 alone. Pillar pod is around $130. So you save more than a $100 easy ....
So if it's in good condition, that is a good price then! Still if he's negotiable , try talk down.
Just make sure the probe for the EGT is included.

[GeeYou8]

With the pyro you should really be getting a welded thread to the dump pipe so it's as close as possible to the turbo for accurate readings but you can DIY easily buy a probe with a clamp and ceramic washer and just drill a hole just after the dump pipe on the exhaust.
Most piston engine aircraft have a K type probe with a hose clamp arrangement for EGT, just a hole in the pipe, probe goes in the hole & hose clamp holds it in place. But there are no pesky mufflers to give back pressure & cause leaks.
Graham

[Daveyboyjunior]

Here you go!

6578565786

The first pic is what you see if looking down into the engine bay in the space behind the coolant expansion tanks. It gives you an idea of how tight it is for room. Mine is an earlier (04) di & may not be the same as your CRD though?
Second pic is the probe through the heat shield and into the mandrel bend. You can see why I decided to make the hole 40mm, this allows room for a socket to tighten everything in rather than a spanner, no room to swing a cat!
This pic is my digital gauge, very responsive and accurate. I used the space occupied by the old ciggy lighter. Hope this all helps!

[Firetrol]

Here you go!

6578565786

The first pic is what you see if looking down into the engine bay in the space behind the coolant expansion tanks. It gives you an idea of how tight it is for room. Mine is an earlier (04) di & may not be the same as your CRD though?
Second pic is the probe through the heat shield and into the mandrel bend. You can see why I decided to make the hole 40mm, this allows room for a socket to tighten everything in rather than a spanner, no room to swing a cat!
This pic is my digital gauge, very responsive and accurate. I used the space occupied by the old ciggy lighter. Hope this all helps!

Cheers Daveyboyjunior, I'll have a look at mine today & see if it's similiar setup to your 04.

[threedogs]

VDO make great gauges not convinced those dual autron/redarc are worth the $$$$
Ill send you a PM regarding a pillar pod

[Dr Gary]

Of course if you had fitted a Beaudesert after market exhaust, the bung would already be there :thumbup:
My EGT probe was a breeze to fit, just a spanner for the old bung and the new compression nut on the probe.

[Daveyboyjunior]

Glad your sorted Gary!