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Firetrol
20th March 2016, 09:38 PM
Being new to the scene I've been trying to do a fair bit of reading as to where to start on my 2010 3.0L CRTD. Funds at the moment are fairly limited as the Minister of War & Finance has put the reins on.
So far I'm looking at putting a EGR blocking plate in off ebay, wondering how much to spend on a catch can & which one to go with. Another thing is I could potentially pick up a 3 year old DP Chip for close to $600, on the flip side I've read the DEA Exhaust systems are pretty good also at $600 delivered. What would be the better option performance wise?
Any other suggestions or redirection of priorities?

Bigcol
20th March 2016, 10:27 PM
try and source all your bits from reputable eBay sellers - nothing worse than paying twice for something (first one wrong / not what you need etc.............)
but to do this
research
research
research

catch can - I know of a bloke who used a 500ml plastic coke bottle as one (replaced everytime he does an oil change) - if you can make it - better than buying it

is your exhaust stuffed.........?
if not - why replace it yet

dont worry about the "chip" just yet, you need to do the NADS first and foremost (EGT gauge, Dawes Valve, proper Dyno Tune, etc.......)
some say you dont need to with the CRD - but prevention and knowledge is better than something going bang, then asking why


better performance options......... mmmmmmmmm
make sure your tyres are at around 38-42psi
dont carry all your back shed in the car when travelling
mud terrain tyres use more fuel to push and wear out quicker than All terrains do

all depends on what you want it for, and how you drive it
daily driver & weekend play toy
serious off road extravagance
long distance touring

all these things need to be sorted and taken into consideration


hope some of this helps you

Clunk
20th March 2016, 10:43 PM
Do what Evil Twin always suggests before doing anything...... get a Scangauge, or ECUtalk, or what ever its called

the evil twin
20th March 2016, 11:33 PM
What he said ^^^^^

ROFL....

Firetrol
21st March 2016, 09:25 AM
Thanks for your replies & info fellas. Bigcol, I use it as a daily driver & weekend warrior trips. The standard exhaust is fine, I was just looking for better performance from a 3".
I will only be putting A/T's on the standard 17x8 alloys, Yokahama GO12 in 285/70/17 is what I'm looking at.
Although the CRD's are supposed to be "safer" from going bang, as you said I'm still keen on prevention rather than cure.
Once again all advice is good, cheers.

threedogs
21st March 2016, 11:09 AM
Check the condition of the OE intercooler with the Patrol
being 6 years old chances are the IC is oily and leaking.
Buy a Tig welded one to replace it'
You'll find fitting the Beaudesert 2.75" exhaust a better option
for the CRD..
Dont bother about blocking the EGR or any other mods till you
have a way to monitor what changes occur first.

Firetrol
21st March 2016, 06:30 PM
Check the condition of the OE intercooler with the Patrol
being 6 years old chances are the IC is oily and leaking.
Buy a Tig welded one to replace it'
You'll find fitting the Beaudesert 2.75" exhaust a better option
for the CRD..
Dont bother about blocking the EGR or any other mods till you
have a way to monitor what changes occur first.

So remove the intercooler & check for oil residue, how would i know if it's leaking threedogs?

mudski
21st March 2016, 06:40 PM
So remove the intercooler & check for oil residue, how would i know if it's leaking threedogs?
If you have oil deposits on the outside of the cooler. This is a good sign that its stuffed.
As to what bigcol said about the NADs.
The CRD's dont need this at all. Period. But using these will alter the power delivery so much better the car will be a different animal to drive.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

BigRAWesty
21st March 2016, 07:48 PM
Personally start with your gauges..
Scan gauge does all but egt and oil pressure.. Imo 2 big ones..
I have blocked my egr completely and have had no issues with it throwing codes but some do..
The scangauge will let you clear those codes if it happens. .
Catch can.. well there are so many varieties it's really personal opinion.. but a good thing.. not under performance in my list though but maintenance of the engine..
Once gauges are done the with the crd it's uo to you..
You can do the whole dawes and needle valve setup but they do hold 16 psi well.. if you want to push it more then the valves are needed.. many say 18-20 psi is the sweet spot for these engines..

The 3" exhaust may throw it into limp mode due to spool up being too quick.. if this happens then the dawes and needle valves are the fix..

Once the basics are done then it's how far you wanna go..
Upgrade the intercooler.. upgrade intake.
Upgrade turbo..

How deep are ya pockets lol..
A bloke in QLD has dropped $27g into his engine..
The only stock thing is the case lol.. But it is insane.. spins 37" tyres with ease..

Firetrol
21st March 2016, 08:50 PM
If you have oil deposits on the outside of the cooler. This is a good sign that its stuffed.
As to what bigcol said about the NADs.
The CRD's dont need this at all. Period. But using these will alter the power delivery so much better the car will be a different animal to drive.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

Thanks for your input on the NADs mudski. Having only driven the Patrol for a month I'm seeing a need/want for smoother & better power delivery.

Firetrol
21st March 2016, 08:58 PM
Personally start with your gauges..
Scan gauge does all but egt and oil pressure.. Imo 2 big ones..
I have blocked my egr completely and have had no issues with it throwing codes but some do..
The scangauge will let you clear those codes if it happens. .
Catch can.. well there are so many varieties it's really personal opinion.. but a good thing.. not under performance in my list though but maintenance of the engine..
Once gauges are done the with the crd it's uo to you..
You can do the whole dawes and needle valve setup but they do hold 16 psi well.. if you want to push it more then the valves are needed.. many say 18-20 psi is the sweet spot for these engines..

The 3" exhaust may throw it into limp mode due to spool up being too quick.. if this happens then the dawes and needle valves are the fix..

Once the basics are done then it's how far you wanna go..
Upgrade the intercooler.. upgrade intake.
Upgrade turbo..

How deep are ya pockets lol..
A bloke in QLD has dropped $27g into his engine..
The only stock thing is the case lol.. But it is insane.. spins 37" tyres with ease..

Cheers Biggqwesty, it's easy to dream with a new chariot but realistically I will be aiming at the basics as finances & wife allow.
The info & feedback on the forum so far has definately helped me see things differently.

Bigcol
21st March 2016, 09:49 PM
always a good place to start is the Basic's

change all fluids (oil / water / diffs ) (maybe need some cooling looked at - fan / hub / thermostat / fan belts, maybe do some diff breathers while your there...........)
do the brakes - change pads, check rotors & replace if needed - make sure calipers are working
check under dash for loose wiring, and check battery for connections that dont go anywhere (even check previous owners fittings and wiring.... ya never never know............)
check and re grease door hinges (use graphite powder)
check your winch actually works, and make yourself familiar with its wiring and how it works

basically make sure its all working, and everything is safe to use

once you have done that, make a list of "WANTS"
new tyres
Snorkle
bigger Intercooler
bigger Turbo
new Exhaust
LED lights in the back
etc

then "shuffle" this list around using the "have to do for safety first" method

then just play it by ear mate...........

togenshi
22nd March 2016, 03:42 PM
I might as well chime in. My car was seriously down on power.

I will go with the solutions that are cheaper to acquire vs reward rather than do x,y,z @ couple grand a pop.

1. Block EGR. You don't need to be a scientist to work out the EGTs will go down. I removed the entire system and used 2 hand-made blanking plates with the gaskets. I rerouted the cooling using t/y junctions and looked at super cheap for water hoses that would work.
2. Get a scanguage II (or equivalent) to clear the P401 error and monitor your Litres per Hour (LPH) and LOD (Load on Engine).
3. If the car has been nursed all its life, clean out the intake manifold. Being nursed ironically damages the engine faster as it keeps the EGR open more often.
4. Get a catch can installed. I spent $300 for a kit but I know you can get one setup for cheap.

Thats the cheaper stuff out of the way. Now you will have a bunch of stuff that will be kind of dependant on each other. This is actually my next time the list as I have done the above.
5. 2.75"/3" Exhaust System.
6. EGT/Turbo Boost Gauge. I am gonna spend a little more for a Redarc combo guage but you can get a gauge for cheap.
7. Dawes and Needle Valves. Dawes to limit max boost pressure and needle for the spool rate.

Now its nice to haves.
8. Sealed intercooler for better cooling and old intercooler could be leaking.
9. Chip system tuned to the car.

Whatever you do, use the OEM or Delco air filter.

threedogs
22nd March 2016, 05:11 PM
You dont need to throw Heaps of $$$$$ to get it running effieciently.
All the mods mentioned are done over time and I suspect behind the
Girlfriends/wifes back, Quick tip dont get caught, you'll need to explain calmly that the Patrol
positively needs its and it will save money in the long run.
Coming from the Capitol I wouldnt think a tint would be high on your list as I suggested earlier
research the Beaudesert 2.75 exhaust nothing but good reports about them here on the CRD

EDIT;;On that P401 error that blocking the EGR will bring you can drill a 10mm hole in the plate
so the EGR thinks its still open etc
this is CRD only

Clunk
22nd March 2016, 06:41 PM
You dont need to throw Heaps of $$$$$ to get it running effieciently.
All the mods mentioned are done over time and I suspect behind the
Girlfriends/wifes back, Quick tip dont get caught, you'll need to explain calmly that the Patrol
positively needs its and it will save money in the long run.
Coming from the Capitol I wouldnt think a tint would be high on your list as I suggested earlier
research the Beaudesert 2.75 exhaust nothing but good reports about them here on the CRD

EDIT;;On that P401 error that blocking the EGR will bring you can drill a 10mm hole in the plate
so the EGR thinks its still open etc
this is CRD only
And what's the point in putting a blanking plate in, if you're only going to drill a hole in it?

Firetrol
22nd March 2016, 06:42 PM
always a good place to start is the Basic's

change all fluids (oil / water / diffs ) (maybe need some cooling looked at - fan / hub / thermostat / fan belts, maybe do some diff breathers while your there...........)
do the brakes - change pads, check rotors & replace if needed - make sure calipers are working
check under dash for loose wiring, and check battery for connections that dont go anywhere (even check previous owners fittings and wiring.... ya never never know............)
check and re grease door hinges (use graphite powder)
check your winch actually works, and make yourself familiar with its wiring and how it works

basically make sure its all working, and everything is safe to use

once you have done that, make a list of "WANTS"
new tyres
Snorkle
bigger Intercooler
bigger Turbo
new Exhaust
LED lights in the back
etc

then "shuffle" this list around using the "have to do for safety first" method

then just play it by ear mate...........

Cheers Bigcol, already working my way through some of it. As I'm yet to learn my way around the vehicle, I had the 130km service done by my usual mechanic who gave the Patrol a good going over. They have given me a few things to look at & possibly replace.
The previous owner had done a fair bit of electrical work himself & most of which is a long way from tidy & easy to follow.
I will get an electrically minded mate to give me a hand going over the electricals, tidy it up & check it all etc.
I like the sound of the "want" list & safety first justification.

the evil twin
22nd March 2016, 07:21 PM
And what's the point in putting a blanking plate in, if you're only going to drill a hole in it?

Agree... leave the plate intact... a couple of button presses on the Scan gauge clears the code

Firetrol
22nd March 2016, 08:52 PM
You dont need to throw Heaps of $$$$$ to get it running effieciently.
All the mods mentioned are done over time and I suspect behind the
Girlfriends/wifes back, Quick tip dont get caught, you'll need to explain calmly that the Patrol
positively needs its and it will save money in the long run.
Coming from the Capitol I wouldnt think a tint would be high on your list as I suggested earlier
research the Beaudesert 2.75 exhaust nothing but good reports about them here on the CRD

EDIT;;On that P401 error that blocking the EGR will bring you can drill a 10mm hole in the plate
so the EGR thinks its still open etc
this is CRD only

Yep, will definately have to be done behind the wife's back threedogs. Out of interest I enquired about a quote from Beaudesert, came back with $1240 delivered. I'll add it to the Possible Future List.

Firetrol
25th March 2016, 06:46 PM
Righto so I've got a Scangauge 2 ordered. If I get my boost/pyro gauges, can I hook up the pyro to my standard exhaust if I'm keeping it for the time being? Would it just be a case of drilling and welding a nut on?
I also did a bit of an external inspection of the standard IC. There is definately some oily black residue coming out where the crimping join is on one end & underneath. The leaking doesn't seem huge but still evident. How urgent is replacing it?
After looking into a replacement IC I read about tube & Fin or bar & plate cores. Are either of these better or worse than the other? I am only after a standard size replacement as I don't have the $1200 to only throw at an upgrade. Any advice on what I should be looking for?