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dave97
26th February 2016, 09:18 PM
My 97 GQ has started doing something very odd, after turning my car off (and taking keys out of ignition) my dash shows like it is in acc. Battery guage still works, the oil light, hand brake light stay on. I thought it might have been a fault in the ignition switch shorting out and giving permanent power but i have tested that theory by removing the fuse and the switch and dash still lights up. I can't think whee else would fault to cause this, ideas? And ways of testing would be very appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Dave

Covo71
27th February 2016, 07:22 AM
Hi Dave,
If you have taken out the fuses and it still lights up it is getting power from somewhere. There must be a crossed up wire there somewhere or a wire has been stripped back. I reckon you are going to have to go searching.

GQ TANK
27th February 2016, 11:18 AM
Dave what motor

What fuse did you pull as there are a couple.

Covo is probbly on track, but the motor and fuse details will help

I would still be suspecting the ignition sw

dave97
27th February 2016, 01:34 PM
It's an RD28T, i pulled the actual plug off the ignition and the fuse marked as ignition switch (30 amp) in the engine bay.

I'm about to pull out the test light and find which wire in the loom is delivering permanent power.

dave97
27th February 2016, 05:58 PM
Well after playing with the test light the only wire showing 12.9v is yellow red on 2 out of 3 plugs for the dash, this wire goes to ignition relay, so ive removed the relay tested again and got 12.7v, removed fuse marked 'meter back L' which according to the diagram comes after the relay, tested again and no power to the dash, do you think it is a wire from the relay to fuse or relay? Any other thoughts?
Thanks in advance
Dave

dave97
27th February 2016, 07:38 PM
So I'm almost certain it's a short in the relay holder but there is one problem with that. ....does anyone know how to get into the back of the relays? I've pulled the fuse panel off and the backs of the relays are hidden behind molded plastic with no way to get into them that i could see, what looks like should be screws are shiny round button heads with no way get them out, anyone come across this before?

dave97
1st March 2016, 06:13 PM
Well i gave up was confusing me so took it to the mechanics today, turns out previous owner replaced the 10 amp brake light fuse with a 30amp, I'd never had a fuse blow so didn't bother to check previous owner had the right fuses in. ....the reason i was getting permanent power to my dash is because parts of the wiring loom have melted and there is a number of shorts, thinking the best thing to do is replace the whole wiring loom, anyone got one?

dom14
5th March 2016, 12:12 PM
Was the brake light on all the time due to a faulty brake light switch under the brake pedal??!!

Otherwise, I can't imagine how the 30amp fuse can melt the wires.
Also, I have never seen a 30amp fuse that would fit into the fuse board.

It might be a good idea to find out the reason behind the melting of wires before you replace them. In other words, find the reason brake light fuse to affect the melting of the wires.

dave97
5th March 2016, 01:27 PM
Dash lights were staying on not brake lights, the sparky found a short at the right hand side that must have been the reason the previous owner upped the fuse, I'm replacing the full wiring loom so none of the original wiring will be there, tracked down a full loom in Queensland from front to back.

dom14
5th March 2016, 03:02 PM
Dash lights were staying on not brake lights, the sparky found a short at the right hand side that must have been the reason the previous owner upped the fuse, I'm replacing the full wiring loom so none of the original wiring will be there, tracked down a full loom in Queensland from front to back.

So, the damaged wire and resulting short circuit was there before the previous owner "upgrading" the brake fuse?
That makes sense. Obviously, he band aided without searching for the real problem. Not a good approach with electrical problems. Lucky he didn't burn the car down.

the evil twin
5th March 2016, 03:33 PM
snip...
Also, I have never seen a 30amp fuse that would fit into the fuse board.



Blade and mini-blade are available up to 40 Amp

Very handy for fault finding... insert fuse, look for smoke :-)

dave97
5th March 2016, 04:53 PM
So, the damaged wire and resulting short circuit was there before the previous owner "upgrading" the brake fuse?
That makes sense. Obviously, he band aided without searching for the real problem. Not a good approach with electrical problems. Lucky he didn't burn the car down.

Yeah, either he did it just to sell it so it didn't look like there was a fault or he was a whole new level of intelligent hill Billy.

It burning is kind of double edged, if it did burn right now I'd have my insurance money and be troll shopping, instead I'm trying to work out when between work, home renos, holidays that are already booked and organised and family commitments i can gut my rig and rewire the whole thing 😑

dom14
5th March 2016, 11:14 PM
Blade and mini-blade are available up to 40 Amp

Very handy for fault finding... insert fuse, look for smoke :-)

Cool. 30 amp is green. 25 amp is white. 40 amp is ................
So much to learn. :D
:cheers:

dave97
6th March 2016, 06:54 AM
Last one i saw was orange i think

the evil twin
6th March 2016, 12:49 PM
The standard is...
30 is Green
35 is Blue/Green sorta Aqua
40 is Orangeish

Some manuf the colours are very washed out so can be hard to tell.
Mini's stop at 30 I think, Std Blade at 40 and Maxi at 80 Amps could be wrong tho