Clutch woes.

[Winnie]

Hey guys, after some advice for my GQ TD42.
When AB an I drove Ellis track the other week my clutch started to stop working... By the end of the weekend I had no clutch whatsoever and drove home without it.
I have only gotten around to it today to have a look. I found a hose on the back of the vacuum pump on the alternator which was supposed to be blocked, the hose had broken and when you depressed the clutch pedal air was coming out from it.
A fair bit of oil has also come out from that hose and made a bit of a mess.

We fixed that with a new hose and started bleeding the clutch. Clutch was completely bled, no air coming out at all. The pedal would not hold pressure for more than 20 seconds and then had no feel to it at all. I could pump the clutch though so it would engage, but would slowly release.
We could not find anywhere at all that clutch fluid was leaking from, or air was getting in.
We pulled out the master cylinder but looks like it is not repairable, so can't open it up to check it.
Next was to pull off the slave cylinder and check.

Just wanting some advice on where to look next? Is there a way to test the slave and master cylinders?

[nissannewby]

Sounds like master cylinder. Put in gear with it running and leave the clutch in and see if it slowly starts to move forward.

[Winnie]

Sounds like master cylinder. Put in gear with it running and leave the clutch in and see if it slowly starts to move forward.
Yes it does start to move.
Also that was how I first noticed that the clutch was playing up, I was parked next to AB talking through the window with my foot on the clutch and I started moving forward...

[nissannewby]

Yes it does start to move.
Also that was how I first noticed that the clutch was playing up, I was parked next to AB talking through the window with my foot on the clutch and I started moving forward...

Yeah. Pretty sure it will be your master cylinder. Sound like its bypassing. You could check the adjustment on the pushrod but I think it might be time for a new one.

[Winnie]

Yeah. Pretty sure it will be your master cylinder. Sound like its bypassing. You could check the adjustment on the pushrod but I think it might be time for a new one.
Thanks Mat, pretty much what I was hoping to hear.
I will replace the master and slave cylinders at the same time.

[BigRAWesty]

Yea I'm with mat.. internal seal would be shot and bypassing..
Can be rebuilt but if the bore is shot then it's a waste of time..
$13 from memory for a seal kit.. which is stuff all..

[JME_GU]

If you change the master and slave cylinders it can be hard to get fluid through in order to bleed it. Consider buying a vacuum bleeder (they are pretty cheap) and it is a lot easier.

[Winnie]

If you change the master and slave cylinders it can be hard to get fluid through in order to bleed it. Consider buying a vacuum bleeder (they are pretty cheap) and it is a lot easier.

Cool, thanks for the tip. I'll give it a go with help from a mate and see how we go.
I've ordered new genuine parts from Patrolapart, was $200 inc postage.
Figured I might as well go genuine, the originals have lasted 22 years.

[mudski]

Cool, thanks for the tip. I'll give it a go with help from a mate and see how we go.
I've ordered new genuine parts from Patrolapart, was $200 inc postage.
Figured I might as well go genuine, the originals have lasted 22 years.

You can bench bleed the master cylinder which will make bleeding the rest a sinch.

While we are on the topic of clutch woes.
When i was travelling back from the south coast in Jan towing my camper. When I pulled into towns and I had to stop. I couldn't get 1st. The only way was to let the clutch out, push the lever to 1st and when its starts to grind, put the clutch back in. To be honest I was giving the car a bit of a hard time, but nothing it couldn't handle. Or well so I thought.

It hasn't done this since coming home, but I do get the odd jingling sound from the bellhousing area. Clutch in or out I get this sound, it only goes away if you start to move. But this sound i only get on the odd occasion.
Could the clutch just have been playing up because it maybe got too hot? Wouldn't be gearbox oil I think. I checked it and the colour is still good. Clutch is still under warranty but I have to pay for the remove and refit. But I don't really want to get the same clutch, CI 4Terrain. I'd have to buy something else. But the funds say otherwise. The funds are saying 4inch intake goddammit! Lol.

[Winnie]

You can bench bleed the master cylinder which will make bleeding the rest a sinch.

Thanks mate, do you mind explaining how?

[JME_GU]

Thanks mate, do you mind explaining how?

To bench bleed you assemble the master cylinder and fill the reservoir then manually cycle the plunger until the cylinder is full of fluid. While it is certainly effective, it is also pretty messy. I prefer to fit the system complete then use a vacuum bleeder as it is just as fast (or faster) and I don't have to deal with brake fluid spills.

[mudski]

Thanks mate, do you mind explaining how?
Pretty much what jme said. All your doing is put a hose from the outlet and back into the reservoir.
So put the cylinder in a vice, loop the outlet into the reservoir, fill the reservoir and push the piston using a screw driver until all bubbles are gone.
It can be messy but it doesnt have to be. The messy part is when you undo thd outlet fitting and put the clutch hose fitting in. You will drip a bit there. But otherwise its o.k.

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[Winnie]

I bought new master and slave cylinders from Patrolapart (genuine nissan) and fitted them this arvo.
Got a mate over to help bleed it with me, used a bottle of fluid and spent an hour and it still has air in it... I think I will try the vacuum bleeder.

[Bloodyaussie]

I bought new master and slave cylinders from Patrolapart (genuine nissan) and fitted them this arvo.
Got a mate over to help bleed it with me, used a bottle of fluid and spent an hour and it still has air in it... I think I will try the vacuum bleeder.

Funny i have never had an issue bleedy my clutch..

[garett]

pump with a full stroke and slowly.... slowly. make the pedal come up slowly down slowly. works every time for me. and bleed from pas side guard till your happy then move to the slave.

[Winnie]

What is the gravity bleeding method?

[garett]

keep master full and crack nipples then wait. (general idea)

[Winnie]

Bloody car! Was at it again for hours last night.
I have tried everything from the syringe method, gravity bleeding, pumping the shite out of the clutch while the nipples were open and the old fashioned way.
Get a tiny bit of air through very rarely every now and then doing it the old fashioned way.
I can get the car into gear while the engine is running now but I have very little movement in the clutch pedal until it starts to grab.
Something is still not right.

[threedogs]

would re-newing your vacuum hoses help, seems like you've done all you can bleed wise.
Like you said you're missing something

[Winnie]

would re-newing your vacuum hoses help, seems like you've done all you can bleed wise.
Like you said you're missing something

Vacuum is only for assist though so I don't think that would help.
I did find one vacuum leak last night though which I fixed but it did not help me to bleed.

[nissannewby]

Have you adjusted the pushrod correctly?

And does yours have another bleed point in the engine bay? Some do have 2 points.

[Winnie]

Have you adjusted the pushrod correctly?

And does yours have another bleed point in the engine bay? Some do have 2 points.

I have not touched the pushrod. Please explain?
Yeah mine has the 2 bleed points.

[nissannewby]

I have not touched the pushrod. Please explain?
Yeah mine has the 2 bleed points.

Is there a thread where it attaches to the pedale?

[Winnie]

I will check that tonight.
I am hoping that after sitting all day that the air might have made its way to the top bleed nipple and will be easy to get out... hoping.

A friend of mine is a mobile diesel mechanic and is going to swing past tonight as well.

[Winnie]

The pin in the new slave is shorter than the old one. Swapped them over and all good.
Can't believe it.

[Bloodyaussie]

The pin in the new slave is shorter than the old one. Swapped them over and all good.
Can't believe it.

Ha ha ha ha ha..... thats funny as now you say that years ago my old mechanic told me to check for that.. sorry did not think of it but my brains in a million places right now.

Glad its sorted.

[Winnie]

Thanks for the advise everyone where off on our trip.

[jay see]

Well this is something that I'll never experience.

Sorry can't help on this one.

[Winnie]

Well it's not sorted after all. Bloody thing. Must have a slight leak somewhere. I'm gonna take it to my mechanic during the week as I'm sick of looking at it.

[Winnie]

Car has been at the mechanics for the last two days and they are struggling. They are not idiots either they are good mechanics.
Still feels like air in the line but there is 100% no air. Next step I think is to pull the gearbox out.. I am supposed to be up bush at my mates bucks party right now...

[nissannewby]

Did you check what I suggested?

[Winnie]

Mechanic did today. Pedal is going straight to the floor now and cannot grab a gear at all.

[nissannewby]

Odd. Was the pedal ever hard to push in while you were bleeding it?

[Winnie]

Odd. Was the pedal ever hard to push in while you were bleeding it?
Sometimes. With the engine off every now and then it would be really stiff. But if you then started the car it felt close to normal.

[nissannewby]

And no leaks anywhere?

Do you still have the old slave?

[Winnie]

Nope, no leaks.
Still have the old slave and master.

[nissannewby]

If your not over it trying putting the old slave back on and see what happens?

[Winnie]

I think that's worth a try rather than taking the box out. The car is still at the shop so I will suggest that tomorrow morning.

[Winnie]

I will add too that when I drove it to my mechanic workshop it was creeping forwards with my foot on the clutch again.

[Winnie]

Old slave no difference.
Could this be a problem with the clutch booster? I wouldn't think it could be but I hope it is.
Could it be something inside the gearbox? I hope not.

[threedogs]

What are you thinking stuffed syncros, well worn at least
These gearboxes are truck like, how many Ks do you think is on the gear
box from your knowledge
Oil is OK

[Winnie]

What are you thinking stuffed syncros, well worn at least
These gearboxes are truck like, how many Ks do you think is on the gear
box from your knowledge
Oil is OK

275k on the box.

[BigRAWesty]

Just run in....
Just a few ideas but I'm sure the workshop are onto it.
Clutch fork. Is it in good order and not sloppy..
Is the slave cylinder bolted down tight and not moving?
I think I read you got a new master didn't you? Is that working 100%. Try putting a bung in the outlets and see if it by passes with engine running..

[mudski]

Clurch forks do bend....sounds like the booster maybe or need more pedal adjustment.
All air is out of the system?

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[threedogs]

You must be missing something IMo so close but so far too.

[taslucas]

I have to say it.......,.

Time for an auto?

>>>tappin from tassie

[Winnie]

The slave is now giving full throw and there is no feel to it at all in the pedal. The gearbox is coming out next week but I have told them to take their time because I won't need it for at least a month.
For this trip I will just match the gears up til I get there.

[taslucas]

Ouch...

>>>tappin from tassie

[Winnie]

Ouch...

>>>tappin from tassie
Yeah I know mate and to be honest this has come at a really bad time for us. Shit happens though.

[taslucas]

Yeah you'll get through it all the stronger and more knowledgeable. Also with your latest efforts you should be able to spring lightly over any adversity lol

>>>tappin from tassie

[Bloodyaussie]

Yeah I know mate and to be honest this has come at a really bad time for us. Shit happens though.

Bugger mate.... so not sure if you need a new clutch yet.?

Got my car back today and its lovely having Bruce back.

The clutch booster had a broken internal that had nothing to do with the rebuild kit and bill did some awesome work repairing it.

[Winnie]

Finally got my car back yesterday!
It now has a new clutch and pressure plate, machined flywheel and new thrust bearing.

Now there seems to be another issue, when you put your foot down on the clutch it works fine and holds there. But when you release the clutch it feels like there is no pushing force against your foot, and almost like it takes a little while for the clutch to release. There is a slight noise when you put the clutch in as you accelerate through the gears, it lasts as long as it takes to depress the clutch. It's not loud and kinda hard to explain what it sounds like. I can feel it through my foot too.
The only thing at this stage that hasn't been replaced are the clutch lines and the clutch booster. Is there a way to test the booster?

[Sir Roofy]

Mines bit like that but giving a couple of runs seems a bit better
mine grabs ok but feels soft call in and compare mate

[Winnie]

Yeah it's weird to explain. Like the clutch is a bit hesitant to return.
I might just drive it how it is for a little while and order a booster rebuild kit.
The clutch is not hard to push in when the engine is running.

[Sir Roofy]

Yeah it's weird to explain. Like the clutch is a bit hesitant to return.
I might just drive it how it is for a little while and order a booster rebuild kit.
The clutch is not hard to push in when the engine is running.

bit of grease on the fork or crap under the boot

[Winnie]

bit of grease on the fork or crap under the boot

Yeah it was all just taken out and checked so no crap in there and would have been greased.

[BigRAWesty]

You gotta remember every clutch feels different..
Imo if it's not slipping after releasing your foot then I'd say it's fine..
The noise though..
Again could be new clutch seating in?? I guess monitor it and see how it goes..

The clutch in the new gu is completely different to the old q. The old q use to engage and disengage quite far into the pedal.. the gu is near the top..
So it sounds like I'm a manual Newby riding the clutch or bunny hopping it around lol

[Winnie]

Nah mate this is definitely not right. I had a 4 Terrain clutch in my old Patrol and it felt great. This is just weird... the pedal feeling is just wrong.
The noise sounds like it's coming from the firewall or the pedal. Definitely not inside the box.

[mudski]

You haven't got a vacuum leak have you? Was the booster inspected at all?

[Winnie]

Yeah they pulled the booster apart and think it all looked fine.
Can't hear any vacuum leaks at all.

[BigRAWesty]

When box was off did they check things like crank shaft end play or anything to do with the motor?

[nissannewby]

Was a new spigot bush installed? Was the gearbox input ahaft checked for straightness?

[Winnie]

When box was off did they check things like crank shaft end play or anything to do with the motor?


Was a new spigot bush installed? Was the gearbox input ahaft checked for straightness?

No idea on both counts there.

[BigRAWesty]

No idea on both counts there.
Bugger.. fingers crossed..

[Winnie]

New 2nd hand clutch booster is in and it has fixed the problem. I have got my car back now!

[Sir Roofy]

New 2nd hand clutch booster is in and it has fixed the problem. I have got my car back now!

Good stuff mate guess you'll be out after work
to see how it goes

[dom14]

Clutch is still under warranty but I have to pay for the remove and refit..

Was the clutch installed over 12 months ago?

[mudski]

Was the clutch installed over 12 months ago?

No it wasn't. But thats all sorted and for another story.

[dom14]

No it wasn't. But thats all sorted and for another story.

Yeah, the point I was trying to make is that you didn't have to pay the cost of labour again if the mechanic stuffed it up. Clutch cost peanuts comparing the labour cost. 12 months warranty should cover both parts and labour, at least in the case of clutch replacement.
Otherwise, what is the point? Spare part can be just a couple of dollars as in welch plugs. Then the labour can be hundreds, if not thousands. I remember having to pull the whole bloody engine out of a car, just to do a single welch plug.

[Winnie]

So over 6 months and a lot of money later and I am still having clutch problems... everything in the hydraulic system except for some of the lines (which are not leaking) is brand new. New slave and master cylinder, new second hand booster, new clutch and flywheel.
I'm finding that when I first start the car, the clutch is perfect. But after driving for a while, the friction point of the clutch moves up the pedal. I don't know if it is dependent on temperature, but that's what I'm thinking?
So at first the friction point is pretty close to the floor which is fine. But after 10 mins or so it starts getting closer to the driver. On our last Licola trip it had moved so far the clutch started slipping, I haven't driven the car since this trip though.

Could it possibly be a vacuum issue? Any other ideas?

I am pulling my hair out with these bloody clutch dramas!

[mudski]

Shit mate. Bad new on your clutch issues. I can only suggest to replace all the rubber hoses aswell. Being the original hoses they are probably swelling up when everything starts to warm up and not holding pressure. That would be my next thing to do then reassess.

[Sir Roofy]

So over 6 months and a lot of money later and I am still having clutch problems... everything in the hydraulic system except for some of the lines (which are not leaking) is brand new. New slave and master cylinder, new second hand booster, new clutch and flywheel.
I'm finding that when I first start the car, the clutch is perfect. But after driving for a while, the friction point of the clutch moves up the pedal. I don't know if it is dependent on temperature, but that's what I'm thinking?
So at first the friction point is pretty close to the floor which is fine. But after 10 mins or so it starts getting closer to the driver. On our last Licola trip it had moved so far the clutch started slipping, I haven't driven the car since this trip though.

Could it possibly be a vacuum issue? Any other ideas?

I am pulling my hair out with these bloody clutch dramas!

pull the plug out of the bell housing see what is there
check the breather lines 2 the gear box
way of base but you never know

[Winnie]

Shit mate. Bad new on your clutch issues. I can only suggest to replace all the rubber hoses aswell. Being the original hoses they are probably swelling up when everything starts to warm up and not holding pressure. That would be my next thing to do then reassess.

That makes sense. I'll try that first I think. I'll grab the braided hose kit from Roadrunner tomorrow arvo and see how it goes.
http://www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au/Nissan-GQ-GU-Patrol-30855-01J10-Clutch-Hose-Assembly-Bleeding-Braided.html

[liftlid]

When you put the master cyl on did you check the clearance on the pushrod? If your clutch is slipping it's either the clutch fork is starting to engage or the friction material is starting to slip, maybe rear main seal?

[mudski]

That makes sense. I'll try that first I think. I'll grab the braided hose kit from Roadrunner tomorrow arvo and see how it goes.
http://www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au/Nissan-GQ-GU-Patrol-30855-01J10-Clutch-Hose-Assembly-Bleeding-Braided.html

Yeah nice! Thats all I can think it might be. unless the push rod is not adjusted right as Gary has mentioned, but to me, it would do it all the time, not just after a bit of driving, if the adjustment was out. But who knows. Good luck. Nothing worse than having a gremlin you can't get rid of...

[Rossco]

Sounds like it's been bloody frustrating, hopefully this solves it, best of luck. . .

[Winnie]

When you put the master cyl on did you check the clearance on the pushrod? If your clutch is slipping it's either the clutch fork is starting to engage or the friction material is starting to slip, maybe rear main seal?

I don't think it's the friction material slipping, I'm fairly sure it's the clutch fork engaging. When it started slipping the friction point of the clutch was right at the very top of the pedal.
If the pushrod was out of adjustment, that wouldn't explain the friction point shifting positions on the pedal though would it? I'll check it anyway but when the car is cold it is in the right spot.

[garett]

it sounds like the fluid is expanding and not returning to the reservoir... i'd check the master / push rod to the master length.

[Winnie]

I picked up the braided hose today from roadrunner so will put that in over the weekend.
I'll double check the push rod behind the master too while I am at it.
Anything else I should check?

[BigRAWesty]

Does the master have a bleed off for excessive pressure?
With the bigger exhaust and higher engine bay temps could it be heating the oil in the lines which is applying pressure to the clutch?

[Winnie]

If that's the case then the braided hose should help with that. It never had any problems before though.

[Arfa Brayne]

When you release your clutch pedal, there should be some freeplay between the pedal pushrod and the master cylinder piston - about 20-40 thou.
The piston on the master cylinder needs to return fully to allow any excess fluid in the line to return to the master cylinder reservoir. A tiny port opens as it's uncovered by the piston seal in the full release position.
If the port is blocked by a wrong size seal or piston, insufficient pushrod freeplay, someone putting a spacer/o-ring behind the circlip or there has been a stainless sleeve fitted that blocks the port - then the pedal will build up with pressure, especially if there is vibration on the master cylinder piston that "micro pumps" fluid without the port to return it to the reservoir.
I haven't stripped the Patrol Clutch MC yet - this info is just from other vehicles worked on over the years. The "circus pipe" ( what else can you call that rediculous bleeder ?) that spirals around the firewall like a mad woman's breakfast, introduces a whole new level of "what if? "

An easy way to check fluid is returning to the reservoir through the port is to run a hose from the LHF brake caliper bleeder to the clutch slave bleeder. Open both bleeders, depress the brake, and see if the fluid level in the clutch reservoir rises

If you're unsure about the vacuum booster causing problems, remove the vac supply and plug it (but keep the brake booster connected) and go for a drive. The clutch will be heavy but not impossible. (don't think this is your problem though)

[Winnie]

I have used a syringe to pump fluid up from the bottom and the level in the reservoir rose as it should.
Yeah I don't think the vacuum booster is the problem either.
The new hose I bought deletes the spirally mad woman top bleeder, so that will eliminate that.

[mudski]

I think your issue may be the hose. I can only be this. As you would think if it were out of adjustment it would do it all the time correct? I suppose time will tell when the new hose goes on.

[BigRAWesty]

Would the cap be enough to hold pressure in the line as it heated up it applies pressure?

It's a hard.
Your saying it get worse even though your using the clutch it's still building pressure..

[UncleFrosty]

Hi Winnie
I may be way off here as I've never done a Patrol clutch myself...
Does the thrust bearing (release bearing) have free movement on its shaft? Shaft slightly bent? If sticking at any point(s) I imagine this would make adjustment difficult and also cause slow return of pedal/changing resistance point as u mentioned previously in this thread. Bearing movement on shaft may also be affected by temp too if tolerance too tight? Maybe cause of noise too?
Seems that you've tried all things fluid, so thought it may be mech/friction instead...
Good luck!!!

[Winnie]

I didnt do the clutch myself and I'm not sure but am hoping that it was checked by the mechanic when he did it.
I don't see how that would change the friction point though?

[UncleFrosty]

Yeah. I'm not entirely sure of that myself. My (entirely uncaffeinated and inexperienced) thinking was - if the bearing was catching at differing points on the shaft then it may not apply pressure back through the yoke to the slave, thereby changing volume of fluid in the line (with further uses of clutch) and resultant resistance point.
Looking at cross-section in Haynes, the bearing travel appears to go over the shaft's splines, so maybe small tag of metal or gunk build up in here?
Maybe I need my coffee...

[Winnie]

As expected, the new clutch hose didn't change a thing. I am truly out of ideas and to be honest I am about at my wits end with the whole saga. I will let my mechanic know on Monday that it is still fucked and he can look at it again.

[BigRAWesty]

As expected, the new clutch hose didn't change a thing. I am truly out of ideas and to be honest I am about at my wits end with the whole saga. I will let my mechanic know on Monday that it is still fucked and he can look at it again.
Fark mate no one seems to be having a win atm..

[Rossco]

As expected, the new clutch hose didn't change a thing. I am truly out of ideas and to be honest I am about at my wits end with the whole saga. I will let my mechanic know on Monday that it is still fucked and he can look at it again.
Hey Winnie that sux mate, wouldn't have a clue what to think. This is a sad day for GQs, better not start mine today i reckon. Good luck really hope you can get to the bottom of this soon. .

[Winnie]

Yeah and not to mention I went to start it today and both batteries were dead flat. I've been suspect of the 2nd battery for a little while but the cracker is brand new, it's faulty. I've charged it up and tested it and there is no current draw from the car, so it's discharging itself.

[BigRAWesty]

Yeah and not to mention I went to start it today and both batteries were dead flat. I've been suspect of the 2nd battery for a little while but the cracker is brand new, it's faulty. I've charged it up and tested it and there is no current draw from the car, so it's discharging itself.
Bugger..
Not a good day

[Winnie]

This was suggested on facebook
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/211.jpg

[BigRAWesty]

That was also mentioned earlier here I think
Post #82

[Winnie]

I just gave it an adjustment and took it for a drive and I "THINK" I have fixed it... Time will tell!

[Rossco]

I just gave it an adjustment and took it for a drive and I "THINK" I have fixed it... Time will tell!
Ooh, hope so. ☺

[Bacho86]

I just gave it an adjustment and took it for a drive and I "THINK" I have fixed it... Time will tell!

Fingers crossed for you mate!!


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[BigRAWesty]

I just gave it an adjustment and took it for a drive and I "THINK" I have fixed it... Time will tell!
All that time and I'm not sure now much money and it was the clearance lol..
Spewing but at least it's fixed..

[Winnie]

New clutch and everything else was needed, this problem only came about after the new clutch was put in.

[BigRAWesty]

New clutch and everything else was needed, this problem only came about after the new clutch was put in.
Yea right.. so not to bad then.. it's been going on for a while though ey..
Hopefully that's all it is..

[Winnie]

Yeah I just went for another drive out to blue rock dam and it would seem that everything is working fine... I still get the noise and can feel something in the pedal when I am accelerating hard and then clutch in though.

[Ben-e-boy]

Yeah I just went for another drive out to blue rock dam and it would seem that everything is working fine... I still get the noise and can feel something in the pedal when I am accelerating hard and then clutch in though.

What are you feeling, rattle, pulses?

[Winnie]

Hard to explain in words. More of a rattle/vibration than anything but is very light. The noise is more noticeable. It only lasts for the stroke of the clutch pedal, and only when you have just accelerated hard through a gear.

[Ben-e-boy]

Hard to explain in words. More of a rattle/vibration than anything but is very light. The noise is more noticeable. It only lasts for the stroke of the clutch pedal, and only when you have just accelerated hard through a gear.

Whats the noise

[Winnie]

Again fairly hard to explain. Sort of a "whooshing" noise is the best way I can explain it.

[Ben-e-boy]

Again fairly hard to explain. Sort of a "whooshing" noise is the best way I can explain it.

I dunno about the noise. But that vibration through the pedals and you dislike for you control arm bush engine mounts says to me that you might want to inspect you harmonic balancer. Sooner rather than later.

[Winnie]

I'll check it out but what does it have to do with the clutch?
Like I said its a weird feeling and hard to describe. The sound and the feel are directly related to each other.

[Ben-e-boy]

I'll check it out but what does it have to do with the clutch?
Like I said its a weird feeling and hard to describe. The sound and the feel are directly related to each other.

Failing harmonc balancers cause vibration,if they cant dampen it, those vibrations have to go somwhere, you've done everything else and at 'wits end' with it all.

[mudski]

Have you got a body lift in the Patrol Winnie? I remember when i put a body lift in my old MK the clutch hose was pulled tight but only under acceleration it was pulled tighter and it was like a guitar string and all the clutch noise traveled right up into the pedal.
Just in case....

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[Winnie]

Failing harmonc balancers cause vibration,if they cant dampen it, those vibrations have to go somwhere, you've done everything else and at 'wits end' with it all.
I had a look at the harmonic balancer this morning and again this afternoon when it was warm, not too sure what I should be looking for though.
It doesn't wobble and is tight on there, doesn't make any noises when it spins either.

[Ben-e-boy]

I had a look at the harmonic balancer this morning and again this afternoon when it was warm, not too sure what I should be looking for though.
It doesn't wobble and is tight on there, doesn't make any noises when it spins either.

Its the rubber in the balancer itself it can degrade and become brittle, it won't do its job properly if that happens

It need to come off to check