Truck lift - Your opinion is wanted!

[HippoNZ]

Hi guys
I am in the process of looking at a lift of some sort, I have asked many outlets who all have an opinion on what I should or shouldn't do which has confused the sh!t out of me, so I'd like to ask yous (since you actually own trols) what you think. I want to make the lift suitable for 35" muddies.

Should I get all my lift from the suspension?
Should I mix it up with a body lift?
What are the pros and cons of each?

I am under the assumption I need a 4" lift to have room for the 35" tyres.

What has to be changed to accomadate the lift?
Besides, new starring damper, castor correctors, extended brake line. This is all im aware of at the moment.

Your help is much appreciated
Brett

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey Mate, sorry could probably find the info but what vehicle? GQ or GU? what Model GU?

[HippoNZ]

Hey Mate, sorry could probably find the info but what vehicle? GQ or GU? what Model GU?

Sorry good point, its a 92 GQ

[growler2058]

If it were me i'd go the 4" for fitting 35's i did but at the time went 33's (bumma) 35's will fit on a lower lift but defeats the purpose if they scrub before maximum wheel/suspension travel is achieved.(however i still scrub on the inner wheel arch when fully stretchin. My preference was to go with extended radius arms rather than castor correction, my belief that it was stronger. You need to tell your suspension what you want to achieve what weight you'll have etc etc. I said to my bloke i wanna handle anything Loveday (4wd park) got still havent done the "tabletop" at full speed need to brace diffs atc for that. I went a BIGO4x4 kit which used a mix of dobinson coils n shocks, 3rds production adj panhards etc and bigO radius arms. as well as extended brake lines you need brake bias valve bracket which mounts on your rear diff to get the proportioning back to normal, just a piece of flat steel 50mm long. To save a little you can use your rear b rake line on the front as it is long enough for a 4" lift

[Ben-e-boy]

If it were me i'd go the 4" for fitting 35's i did but at the time went 33's (bumma) 35's will fit on a lower lift but defeats the purpose if they scrub before maximum wheel/suspension travel is achieved.(however i still scrub on the inner wheel arch when fully stretchin. My preference was to go with extended radius arms rather than castor correction, my belief that it was stronger. You need to tell your suspension what you want to achieve what weight you'll have etc etc. I said to my bloke i wanna handle anything Loveday (4wd park) got still havent done the "tabletop" at full speed need to brace diffs atc for that. I went a BIGO4x4 kit which used a mix of dobinson coils n shocks, 3rds production adj panhards etc and bigO radius arms. as well as extended brake lines you need brake bias valve bracket which mounts on your rear diff to get the proportioning back to normal, just a piece of flat steel 50mm long. To save a little you can use your rear b rake line on the front as it is long enough for a 4" lift

I agree

save the extra money for the radius arms, longer control arms ect.

as for for body lifts,, they are a cheap and effective way to solve clearance problems. But, the chassis still only has a 2 inch lift

Lift lits gives you the lift you want but is more expensive

[HippoNZ]

Ok thanks so far fellas, I think I have an idea but what exactly are radius arms and panhards? I was told castor correctors were the spacing for the gear box to be dropped to align up with the drive line so they don't clunk? Is this true of just bollocks told by a novice?

and again thanks, really want to nail what I want to do before spending a fair amount of dosh.

cheers
Brett

[growler2058]

Radius arms connect ur front diff to the chassis and panhards centralise the diffs left to right

[growler2058]

If you Go online and check out snake racing or similar and have a look at a compete kit or each component hope this helps

[GUte]

I wouldnt bother with the body lift, unless running huge tyres (37+)

I would recommend fitting drop boxes if going 4-5 inch lift, much cheaper than new radius arms and often give a better ride.

For 4" you will need

coils
shocks
castor correction (drop boxes or radius arms)
panhards front and rear
adjustable draglink (centres steering wheel)
extended sway bar links (if you are running them, im only running rear)

may as well get a new steering damper while you are doing it

zordos do good kits http://www.zordos4wdsuspension.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49&Itemid=53

[HippoNZ]

If you Go online and check out snake racing or similar and have a look at a compete kit or each component hope this helps
Thanks Growler, someone has finally got me understanding the gravity of upgrading to a 4" suspension. That site really helped for me to understand what the radius arms and panhards are for. Knowing this now I see I have a bit more saving to do lol
So pretty much you believe in spending the money and doing it properly by just raising the suspension? The alternative (body lift) sure is cheaper but will it just see me running into future ongoing issues? By the looks of things to get the job done, spring, shock, radius arms, panhards etc will cost me 5k...ooouuuccchhhh. One thing I have always said, this hobby ant cheap! haha but bloody good fun!

[HippoNZ]

I wouldnt bother with the body lift, unless running huge tyres (37+)

I would recommend fitting drop boxes if going 4-5 inch lift, much cheaper than new radius arms and often give a better ride.

For 4" you will need

coils
shocks
castor correction (drop boxes or radius arms)
panhards front and rear
adjustable draglink (centres steering wheel)
extended sway bar links (if you are running them, im only running rear)

may as well get a new steering damper while you are doing it

zordos do good kits http://www.zordos4wdsuspension.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49&Itemid=53

Thanks GUte, I guess if I was running more on a cheaper budget then a drop box may better suite my situation. cheers for the link, I think its probably going to be best buying in a kit so that I don't miss anything! lol A question I do have for you guys is I hear having a suspension lift keeps your center of gravity down vs a body lift? How do you find the limitations that a 4" lift gives while on slops?

Cheers
Brett

[growler2058]

My kit complete absolutely everything was $3k without fitting, I fit it myself with plenty of blood sweat n the occasional tears hahaaha then 2k on 5 new sunnies and Mickey t mtz. I didn't go snake firstly the cost and secondly found bigO 4x4 in south aust. There's other mobs superior engineering not sure what u got in NZ but shop around u should be able to get well less than 5k tho

[GUte]

Oh you also need longer rear control arms (connect rear diff to chassis) or adjustable uppers to re align the diff to the tailshaft and stop the coils rubbing as they will bow a little

The drop boxes also drop your gear box which helps keep the tailshaft aligned to another reason why drop boxes are better imho

[growler2058]

I'm not running any sway bars at the moment. Never one fitted on the front and got lazy and haven't got extension for the rear so she is a little bit "boaty" on the hardtop corners but definately not scary. If you go for a kit make sure you get the brake valve proportioning bracket it's only a small part but without it ull get more rear brake pressure than front.... Not ideal. Good luck with the hunt for the right kit mate and ask ask ask if in doubt. Modding your troll should be an enjoyable exersize. Even when the bark is torn from your knuckles hahahaha all part of the fun. Or get someone else to do it and enjoy scar free knuckles, either way your troll will be better for it

[melts]

I helped a mate fit 2inch body lift to his d21 Navara. It was reasonably simple (with the right tools) and enabled him to go from 28inch tyres to 32inch tyres.
The Navara suspension is not easy to lift (IFS) so alot of the guys use body lift as a way of fitting larger tyres. If done right you wont really encounter any issues. I think his kit cost less than $200 from ebay and it all bolted in easy enough.
you will need to do things like extend your steering rod and possibly lower your radiator, or remove the fan shroud.

If you went 2 inch suspension and 2inch body you should easily fit 35' tyres.
once you go 3-4inch suspension lift you need to spend bulk on suspension components.
you can get away with doing an easy spring upgrade to get 2 maybe 3inch lift from what i hear.

there are pro's and cons to each, but if you were on a serious buget you could prob just go 3inch body lift and fit the tyres straight up.
I guess it depends on your budget

[TuffTD42]

Hi guys
I am in the process of looking at a lift of some sort, I have asked many outlets who all have an opinion on what I should or shouldn't do which has confused the sh!t out of me, so I'd like to ask yous (since you actually own trols) what you think. I want to make the lift suitable for 35" muddies.

Should I get all my lift from the suspension?
Should I mix it up with a body lift?
What are the pros and cons of each?

I am under the assumption I need a 4" lift to have room for the 35" tyres.

What has to be changed to accomadate the lift?
Besides, new starring damper, castor correctors, extended brake line. This is all im aware of at the moment.

Your help is much appreciated
Brett

What lift do you want? What sort of wheeling are you or will be doing? 35's will fit under a 2" lift. If cost is a problem 3" would be the way to go. I ran mine with a 3" lift for 5 years. Cost me $1500 all up, that was 4 x Kings springs, Lovells shocks, castor bush's & pan-hard rods. I know run a 6" lift & it cost me approx $5000. No matter what lift you have or if you run 33's or 35's the rear tyres will scrub out on the inner guard. Nothing to worry about only enough to remove the paint. You can extend the bump stops to stop this.

There is a heap of different kits about & you will get a different story from nearly every place you ring. That's what I found anyhow. For anything over 3" lift it gets expensive as you've seen by now there's a lot more involved. Best thing is to do a heap of research & don't rush in. For instance a lot of people advise of running heavy duty lower control arms (rear) but 15+mm longer. This will correct the wheel base while the vehicle is at ride height but once you flex it up the rear tyre now will be 15mm further back than normal which will result in you tearing into the rear quarter. Most one's I've seen with longer arms have had a quarter chop & the rear guard slightly stretched. I run heavy duty rear lower arms but standard length. I use adjustable uppers to aline the pinion angle & it works a treat. What I needed to correctly lift mine 6" which will be the same for 4"

Springs & shocks
Adjustable front & rear pan-hard rods (corrects track)
Drop arms ( correct Castor & pin angle)
adjustable drag link (center steering wheel)
Braided extended front & rear brake lines
extended diff breathers
Brake bias bracket
heavy duty standard length lower rear control arms
Adjustable upper rear control arms ( sets pinion angle, spring angle & shock angle)
10-15mm gearbox packer (Helps to take away the drive line vibration)

I also had to spin the tail shaft end for end to stop it from hitting on the cross member. I had to notch out the gearbox cross member so the front drive shaft had clearance.

For your question about center of gravity. I've read that body lifts raise it then I've read they help to keep it down. To find out it's limits I was thinking about this also. I've had mine on some fairly gnarly angles & am let to lay her over. Maybe tie a snatch strap to the side & to another vehicle with a slight amount of slack & drive a ramp till she wants to start to lay over then you'll know what angle you don't want to get on in the bush lol.

As far as body lifts go I'm not a fan of them & there is more to do than just simply fit blocks if you want to do it right. My mate done a body lift to his & cooked the engine due to the radiator being higher than the head & causing an air lock. Not overly common but as I seen it dose happen. So he had to re-mount the radiator 2" lower to correct it. I've read numerous story's where body's are cracking where the mounts go & also have read where a lot have no issues. So as I said do a heap of research & figure out what bests suits you.

Just my 2cents.

Cheers Jono.

[MudRunnerTD]

I ran a 2inch lift and a 2inch body lift and 35s for 7 years with no problems at all. Depending on the type of wheeling you are going to get into you will struggle to find the limitations of this setup to be honest mate. When you do, it will be time to do a heap of things to it, ie lockers, winch and "stuff".

Save your cash and whack a 2" spring and a 2" body lift mate, you will have no regrets.

You may get a little scrubbing on the back of the front guards if you are running brand new 35s with lots of tread, that was the first time i ever scrubbed the front was with brand new tyres.

[Ben-e-boy]

Hippo what do you want out of your suspension? do you just want clearence or do you want good flex aswell?

[HippoNZ]

First things first I need the clearance. At this point in time I don't realllllyyyy need the flex but will want it when I join a club. So I'd say both for the long run.
Just like to say I have really appreciated your guys help so far, you have all brought up some bloody good points that I would have missed and probably kicked a fuss when the trol won't drive! haha
I think I'm rather convinced on the idea of going 4"inch spring lift. But then again I said that 2months ago and my mind keeps changing! lol
I don't just want the lift for looks but to enhance my off road ability too.
Generally speaking I'll only have tools in the back and some fat mates lol weighing me down since being a swb and all I won't have a ton of gear.
Keep up the 2cents worth as any opinion is accepted!

cheers guys
Brett

[Ben-e-boy]

First things first I need the clearance. At this point in time I don't realllllyyyy need the flex but will want it when I join a club. So I'd say both for the long run.
Just like to say I have really appreciated your guys help so far, you have all brought up some bloody good points that I would have missed and probably kicked a fuss when the trol won't drive! haha
I think I'm rather convinced on the idea of going 4"inch spring lift. But then again I said that 2months ago and my mind keeps changing! lol
I don't just want the lift for looks but to enhance my off road ability too.
Generally speaking I'll only have tools in the back and some fat mates lol weighing me down since being a swb and all I won't have a ton of gear.
Keep up the 2cents worth as any opinion is accepted!

cheers guys
Brett

If you want both in the long run go the 4" spring, drop boxes, you can save some coin by using non adjustable gear to suit the lift (panhards etc)

[growler2058]

First things first I need the clearance. At this point in time I don't realllllyyyy need the flex but will want it when I join a club. So I'd say both for the long run.
Just like to say I have really appreciated your guys help so far, you have all brought up some bloody good points that I would have missed and probably kicked a fuss when the trol won't drive! haha
I think I'm rather convinced on the idea of going 4"inch spring lift. But then again I said that 2months ago and my mind keeps changing! lol
I don't just want the lift for looks but to enhance my off road ability too.
Generally speaking I'll only have tools in the back and some fat mates lol weighing me down since being a swb and all I won't have a ton of gear.
Keep up the 2cents worth as any opinion is accepted!

cheers guys
Brett

Ok add another 2bob worth ididnt realise you're a shorty, i've got a wagon im sure when you go over 2" on a shorty you need to do somethin with tail/drive/prop shaft whichever u prefer to call em and also adjust the height of ur gear box...........research, research, research mate, hopefully ther are some shorty owners here that can advise ya

[Ben-e-boy]

ooo and dont forget your drive shaft with a shorty and depending on the amount of flex it may separate at the slip yoke

[Ben-e-boy]

Ok add another 2bob worth ididnt realise you're a shorty, i've got a wagon im sure when you go over 2" on a shorty you need to do somethin with tail/drive/prop shaft whichever u prefer to call em and also adjust the height of ur gear box...........research, research, research mate, hopefully ther are some shorty owners here that can advise ya

doh u beat me too it

[growler2058]

doh u beat me too it

HAHHAHA sorry mate reflexes like a steel trap hahahahahaha

[Forced Offroad]

I cant find it but there is a bloke over in NZ that got over the superior engineering complete lift...He was wrapped about, one of the first nissans to run it in NZ
http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/

4inch springs, drop boxes which also pushes the front diff forward 10-15mm helps with 35" shoes
I ran that gear in comps and went well

[HippoNZ]

Quick question, if I downsized to a 3" lift what disadvantage would that give me? And what advantage besides being cheaper would it give?

[Bigrig]

Quick question, if I downsized to a 3" lift what disadvantage would that give me? And what advantage besides being cheaper would it give?

3 and 4" are both going to give you grief around the gear you need to swap out mate - you'll still need panhards, you'll still need extended link pins, extended brakes lines, caster correction, etc - could you get away with not doing some things? Probably. But at the expense later when something goes "twang" or worse!

Why the thoughts of dropping? 4" is what I have in mine and it doesn't make it a monster truck by any means, but certainly opens up clearance under the rig.

Good luck with the decision.

[HippoNZ]

3 and 4" are both going to give you grief around the gear you need to swap out mate - you'll still need panhards, you'll still need extended link pins, extended brakes lines, caster correction, etc - could you get away with not doing some things? Probably. But at the expense later when something goes "twang" or worse!

Why the thoughts of dropping? 4" is what I have in mine and it doesn't make it a monster truck by any means, but certainly opens up clearance under the rig.

Good luck with the decision.

Cheers mate, I do see your point and since this I have seen a few rigs with only the 3" lift running on 35 tyres and it does look a bit tight for space - 4" it is but the wallet got a hiding the other day buying a new alternator so I guess that means more time to dream, atleast those are free!! haha

[Bigrig]

Cheers mate, I do see your point and since this I have seen a few rigs with only the 3" lift running on 35 tyres and it does look a bit tight for space - 4" it is but the wallet got a hiding the other day buying a new alternator so I guess that means more time to dream, atleast those are free!! haha

Haha! Good luck mate whichever way you go (4"!!! Lol) ...

[gus]

i did my gq swb 5 inch lift and fitting 37 inch with some cutting behind front and rear wheels drop box and adjustable panhards and control arms

[HippoNZ]

Hi guys
update for you all, I now have some dosh to spend and wanted to know this,
will this kit be suitable short term until I can replace more parts
4" springs
4" shocks
steering damper
drop boxes
panhard rods
longer brake lines

Will this be ok and enough to stop the rear tailshaft from slipping at the yoke - as quoted by beneboy "ooo and dont forget your drive shaft with a shorty and depending on the amount of flex it may separate at the slip yoke"? will the drop box be ok to sort this issue.
Times are getting serious lol cant wait!

[YNOT]

Drop boxes won't help the rear driveshaft. Fit the suspension and flex the car up on a travel ramp or similar and check the driveshaft extension, you may need a rear tailshaft spacer if it's over extending. Rear driveshaft angles will probably also be an issue being a shorty, you will most likely need the tail shaft modified to fit a double carden joint.

Diff breathers will need to be extended and you will need an extension bar for the brake bias valve.

Tony

[HippoNZ]

Drop boxes won't help the rear driveshaft. Fit the suspension and flex the car up on a travel ramp or similar and check the driveshaft extension, you may need a rear tailshaft spacer if it's over extending. Rear driveshaft angles will probably also be an issue being a shorty, you will most likely need the tail shaft modified to fit a double carden joint.

Diff breathers will need to be extended and you will need an extension bar for the brake bias valve.

Tony

Thanks tony, after some researching I've found out what you mean lol so normal driving wont affect it, just when i start to flex a bit I could run into trouble with the rear shaft falling out? are double carden joints expensive?

[YNOT]

Rear tailshaft length will be OK (after the lift) for normal driving but you will probably have driveline vibrations because of the angle - that's what the double carden joint will fix. I have no idea of price to get the tailshaft modified, you will need to talk to a driveshaft specialist.
At least you can keep driving around while the rear shaft is out getting modded, just put it in 4WD, lock the hubs and run around front wheel drive!

Tony

[HippoNZ]

Rear tailshaft length will be OK (after the lift) for normal driving but you will probably have driveline vibrations because of the angle - that's what the double carden joint will fix. I have no idea of price to get the tailshaft modified, you will need to talk to a driveshaft specialist.
At least you can keep driving around while the rear shaft is out getting modded, just put it in 4WD, lock the hubs and run around front wheel drive!

Tony

Cheers mate I might just do that! I'll start searching for someone who deals with driveshafts and see what I come up with

[Sir Roofy]

Hey hippo
you been out penguin chasing lately lol
so how you been
got any pics of the new lift yet

cheers

[HippoNZ]

Hey hippo
you been out penguin chasing lately lol
so how you been
got any pics of the new lift yet

cheers

hey mate, yeah got a few penguins at home now haha
havn't bought the kit yet, just making some final decisions and getting a quote sorted tomorrow. Got a mate who can get me a good price hopefully.
will be buying the kit in the next week or 2 and putting it in with some celebratory cans at the end of the day!
There will be pics for sure to follow!
hope your doing well mate

cheers
Brett

[HippoNZ]

what the difference between caster corrector bushes and a dropbox? and do I need both?

[Sir Roofy]

hey mate, yeah got a few penguins at home now haha
havn't bought the kit yet, just making some final decisions and getting a quote sorted tomorrow. Got a mate who can get me a good price hopefully.
Will be buying the kit in the next week or 2 and putting it in with some celebratory cans at the end of the day!
There will be pics for sure to follow!
Hope your doing well mate

cheers
brett

sounds good mate where doing fine
trying to sort a couple of trips out that the boss wants
to do
cheers
roofy

[YNOT]

what the difference between caster corrector bushes and a dropbox? and do I need both?

Castor correction bushes are limited to about 2 degrees of castor correction, OK for a 2" lift but not nearly enough for a 4" lift. They work by twisting the front diff back to compensate for the forward twist caused by the lift. Correction bushes do not correct the alignment of the radius arm which will be in a droop position after the lift putting stress on the rear mounting bush.

Drop arms replace the original radius arms and are shaped to put the front diff back in correct alignment as well as keeping the main part of the arm in the original (horizontal) position taking stress off the rear bushes. Most drop arms also move the front diff forward about 13mm as well.

Drop boxes relocate the rear mount of the radius arms approximately 90mm (depending on what drop boxes you get) below the original mounting point which puts the radius arms and therefore the diff back close to correct alignment. Most drop boxes also move the mount forward about 12mm as well. giving better wheel arch clearance for bigger tyres.


Tony

[HippoNZ]

Castor correction bushes are limited to about 2 degrees of castor correction, OK for a 2" lift but not nearly enough for a 4" lift. They work by twisting the front diff back to compensate for the forward twist caused by the lift. Correction bushes do not correct the alignment of the radius arm which will be in a droop position after the lift putting stress on the rear mounting bush.

Drop arms replace the original radius arms and are shaped to put the front diff back in correct alignment as well as keeping the main part of the arm in the original (horizontal) position taking stress off the rear bushes. Most drop arms also move the front diff forward about 13mm as well.

Drop boxes relocate the rear mount of the radius arms approximately 90mm (depending on what drop boxes you get) below the original mounting point which puts the radius arms and therefore the diff back close to correct alignment. Most drop boxes also move the mount forward about 12mm as well. giving better wheel arch clearance for bigger tyres.


Tony

Thanks Tony for clearing that up

[HippoNZ]

righto fellas looking at about 2k for the job, that includes
Gear box spacer
Caster Correctors
Brake lines
Shocks
Springs
Drop box
rear arms

so that will get me going, from there I may add adjustable panhards and extended sway links etc, right now im more excited than a kid in a candy store lol

[G-ForceCrew]

Hi guys,

Really helpfull thread. Hey Brett it is worth ring Just 4X4's (Dave) He is a car dealer but runs a workshop as well and wreak's lots of trols he may have some second hand bits. If he does the mods that require new certs its all taken care of at the same time.


Kel

[HippoNZ]

Hi guys,

Really helpfull thread. Hey Brett it is worth ring Just 4X4's (Dave) He is a car dealer but runs a workshop as well and wreak's lots of trols he may have some second hand bits. If he does the mods that require new certs its all taken care of at the same time.


Kel

Hi kel
Thanks for that mate but I live down in Christchurch, but that's one thing I've forgotten is certs. Do you know if I have to get a cert for a 4" lift? and is it just a cert on the lift or is it one of those inspections where they tear apart your truck and winge about everything else that might be wrong? lol I've been speaking to a crowd here 4x4 accessories who just specialize in custom 4x4 work so I'll give them a bell and see if they can certify it for me if required.
awesome to see another kiwi here!

Cheers
Brett

[MudRunnerTD]

righto fellas looking at about 2k for the job, that includes
Gear box spacer
Caster Correctors
Brake lines
Shocks
Springs
Drop box
rear arms

so that will get me going, from there I may add adjustable panhards and extended sway links etc, right now im more excited than a kid in a candy store lol

Hey Hippo,

Looking good mate, some corrections on your list though. If you go Drop Boxes (Recomended) you will not need the Caster Correction bushes aswell.

With a 4" lift you will likely need the Panards straight away mate. The Drop boxes will drop the Gear box down 12mm and may be a good thing for your pinion angle and you may not need the gear box spacers.

Being a GQ you can take the steering wheel off to realign cause it will be way out of whack but you might think about replacing the front Drag Link (Front of diff, Steering box to left front swivel hub and very exposed to damage) in the future. Guys with air bags arn't keen to take the steering wheel off so need to replace the drag link during the lift..

If your going new rear trailing arms stick with standard length or your buying trouble, if money is tight and you can only afford a single set of rear arms go the upper adjustables for a start and buy the standard length lowers when you have the cash. You only need to replace the lowers cause they are a weak link not because they dont do the job. Unlike the uppers! They WONT do the job in current length with your new setup. you will need some adjustability in your rear end to help you sort out your drive line vibrations and the uppers will help.


Good luck and have fun.

[HippoNZ]

Hey Hippo,

Looking good mate, some corrections on your list though. If you go Drop Boxes (Recomended) you will not need the Caster Correction bushes aswell.

With a 4" lift you will likely need the Panards straight away mate. The Drop boxes will drop the Gear box down 12mm and may be a good thing for your pinion angle and you may not need the gear box spacers.

Being a GQ you can take the steering wheel off to realign cause it will be way out of whack but you might think about replacing the front Drag Link (Front of diff, Steering box to left front swivel hub and very exposed to damage) in the future. Guys with air bags arn't keen to take the steering wheel off so need to replace the drag link during the lift..

If your going new rear trailing arms stick with standard length or your buying trouble, if money is tight and you can only afford a single set of rear arms go the upper adjustables for a start and buy the standard length lowers when you have the cash. You only need to replace the lowers cause they are a weak link not because they dont do the job. Unlike the uppers! They WONT do the job in current length with your new setup. you will need some adjustability in your rear end to help you sort out your drive line vibrations and the uppers will help.


Good luck and have fun.

Cheers for that mate, Your getting my shopping list down to a "T" haha appreciate it.
From the 2k I do have a little to play with so if the panhard rods are important I'll get that at the same time.
As for the upper arms I didn't realize they were so crucial so ill add that to the list too.

Gear box spacer
Caster Correctors/bushes
Brake lines
Shocks
Springs
Drop box
upper arms
panhards

is that now a complete list to you? until my money tree decides to sprout again lolololol

[MudRunnerTD]

looking good but if your standard Radius arm front bushes are still ok then you dont need front bushes as the drop boxes wil take care of caster correction and teh drop boxes will probably sort out the gear box spacing as well.

Below is a link to the Superiors gear box spacer and it is actually the back half of the drop boxs so not required. you might think about a tail shaft spacer if your concerned about it dropping out.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-GQ-GU-Gearbox-Spacer-Plate-/130538077200?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e64acfc10

[HippoNZ]

looking good but if your standard Radius arm front bushes are still ok then you dont need front bushes as the drop boxes wil take care of caster correction and teh drop boxes will probably sort out the gear box spacing as well.

Below is a link to the Superiors gear box spacer and it is actually the back half of the drop boxs so not required. you might think about a tail shaft spacer if your concerned about it dropping out.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-GQ-GU-Gearbox-Spacer-Plate-/130538077200?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e64acfc10

I'm a little lost weather to get a tail shaft spacer or not. you and Tony and beneboy mentioned about it possibly falling out but the fella who I spoke to yesterday who I'll most likely get the kit off was adamant it wouldn't happen and I don't need the spacer. So I'll follow Tony's advice and I'll park in on a slope, get a bit of flex going and check it out for myself to see if it's over extending or not. Is that the best path to go down?

cheers

[MudRunnerTD]

here is a link to a Drive Shaft spacer, it is not a big deal and not expensive. This will only need to be considered on a big lift on a SWB GQ mate and i am of the opinion Better to be safe than sorry. This will not affect the car in any way and for $65 odd dollars will set your mind at ease.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rockhopper-Suzuki-Sierra-13mm-tail-shaft-spacers-/140547165272?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b9438c58

You will need to chase one for a GQ but not a big deal and the money you saved on not needing the gear box spacers and caster correction your gunna get these for free ;)

[MudRunnerTD]

So your list should be looking something like this

Springs
Shocks
Steering damper
Drop Boxes (Chase some bolt up ones that require no cutting)
1 x Brake line (move back to front and replace back)
Brake bias Plate
Front and Rear Panards
adjustable upper control arms

OPTIONS
Tail Shaft spacer
Front Drag Link
Rear Lower Trailing arms standard length
Double Cardin Joint in rear tail shaft.

[HippoNZ]

So your list should be looking something like this

Springs
Shocks
Steering damper
Drop Boxes (Chase some bolt up ones that require no cutting)
1 x Brake line (move back to front and replace back)
Brake bias Plate
Front and Rear Panards
adjustable upper control arms

OPTIONS
Tail Shaft spacer
Front Drag Link
Rear Lower Trailing arms standard length
Double Cardin Joint in rear tail shaft.


Mudrunner you are a great help mate, how thick do you reckon the spacer should be? I see you can get quite a few sizes from 10mm to 40mm. If I got a spacer then do I need the double cardin joint or vice versa?

[G-ForceCrew]

Hi Brett,

The cert is just for what you modify. low volume cert. If you modify brake lines for instance then it includes the brake system. Engineering Certifiers now days dont tend to go through the drop door or anything else that maybe a WOF issue only what you ask for to be certified. Also really good idea to get a new WOF as soon as it has been done as whoever does the WOF will be less critical as you have just had it certified. If you go down the road 3 months later they will look harder at what was modified. You will also have some come back on the mods if it doesnt get a new WOF.

Hope you will be able to get to the bottle store again with a 4inch lift, living in CHCH lol


Kel

[HippoNZ]

Hi Brett,

The cert is just for what you modify. low volume cert. If you modify brake lines for instance then it includes the brake system. Engineering Certifiers now days dont tend to go through the drop door or anything else that maybe a WOF issue only what you ask for to be certified. Also really good idea to get a new WOF as soon as it has been done as whoever does the WOF will be less critical as you have just had it certified. If you go down the road 3 months later they will look harder at what was modified. You will also have some come back on the mods if it doesnt get a new WOF.

Hope you will be able to get to the bottle store again with a 4inch lift, living in CHCH lol


Kel

Thanks for the info Kel wasn't too sure about it before.
and you said it, I'll be straight off to buy some brews once the lift is complete lol