PDA

View Full Version : Where to put pressure switch?



Skitzyrex
19th January 2016, 12:14 AM
After reading through a few threads and managing to confuse myself, I'm wondering if someone could help me out. I have a Ironman Flo Max Pro compressor and I want to put in a pressure switch. I have drawn up the standard wiring currently on the compressor if someone could describe where I need to put it in. See below
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/198.jpg
And a pic of the actual thing
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/199.jpg

Thanks in advance.
Mick

MudRunnerTD
19th January 2016, 12:27 AM
Is there a reason that you are switching to Negative?

Your circuit is not complete at the relay and the switch required Positive feed to switch. in fact you have a positive and negative at the switch? depending on the switch you use and if it is illuminated an inline type switch will not need a Negative. In this circuit the Relay is the switching circuit and the centre of your circuit to save confusion

Think of a relay as a Cross [ + ] rather than a square. 86 to 85 is the pos/neg switching side of the circuit that drives the gate (the relay positive) once the switch is activated 86 and 85 complete and open the relay and allow 12v to flow across the relay from 87 to 30 (Big current) .

In the image below i would fit the pressure switch between the switch and the 86 pin and just run it as an inline switch. In - Out. Obviously it needs the air line connected too.


64046

Skitzyrex
19th January 2016, 12:50 AM
Cheers mate, I've not touched any of the wiring just drawn it how it was. I was assuming as if had both colored wires to and from the switch.

MudRunnerTD
19th January 2016, 07:23 AM
Hmmm? Sorry mate that drawing is doing my head in actually. It can't be right.????

The relay will not energize in your diagram. There is no positive feed? How did the positive get to the switch? What wire was on the 86 pin? I can see in the photo that it's missing a wire?

I would retrace everything and maybe get multimeter out and check for positive current.

Something is Odd.

BigRAWesty
19th January 2016, 07:37 AM
Agree I can't see that relay working either and think something is missing..
Personally if your wiring up to fix this unit permanently I'd rip all that junk out and start again..
In darrens diagram the pressure switch would go between the master switch and pin 86..
I would also fuse that line prior to the switch from battery to be safe..

MudRunnerTD
19th January 2016, 07:50 AM
At the left side of your pic I can see a black wire that comes into the case and is clamped then looks like it's just hanging in the air and is insulated? Is the supposed to be on pin 86? Would make sense.

The big red wire with the yellow terminal end cap on it in the middle of the pic??where did that go? Have you capped it just for make safe??

Kimbo63
19th January 2016, 09:59 AM
Also stick the circuit breaker on the positive terminal close as you can to save your truck from burning should you get a short

64054

this is close to how I did it hope it helps
I Always make the switch to earth as you then only need to run one long wire to the back also to prevent having a live wire running the length of truck

Skitzyrex
19th January 2016, 02:56 PM
At the left side of your pic I can see a black wire that comes into the case and is clamped then looks like it's just hanging in the air and is insulated? Is the supposed to be on pin 86? Would make sense.

The big red wire with the yellow terminal end cap on it in the middle of the pic??where did that go? Have you capped it just for make safe??

Cheers mate. The wire with the cap on it joins the wire from the battery to the compressor (this was all standard).
That is the circuit breaker to the left hand side that the other black wire is going to.
I might just say, I've had this for over a year working no problems with the alligator clips. But think I might take the advice of biggqwesty and start over before hard wiring it.
Thanks everyone

Skitzyrex
19th January 2016, 03:01 PM
Also stick the circuit breaker on the positive terminal close as you can to save your truck from burning should you get a short

64054

this is close to how I did it hope it helps
I Always make the switch to earth as you then only need to run one long wire to the back also to prevent having a live wire running the length of truck

I'm fortunate enough that the second battery is in the back about a foot away from where I'm putting the compressor.

threedogs
19th January 2016, 03:07 PM
What I would do if you are mounting your compressor is remove the
handle and fit an air manifold then your pressure switch is close to the compressor.
Also dont forget to fit a non return valve first then the manifold with the pressure switch

MudRunnerTD
19th January 2016, 05:08 PM
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/205.jpg

That was a bit of a stuff around.... Lol

That yellow cap is a bit dodgy? Safe but not outstanding!! So the other end of that goes to the alligator clip to the positive battery.?

Consider the diagram I originally posted as an alternative rewire.

The pressure switch can be anywhere in your air system as long as it receives the system pressure. It can also really be Anywhere in the electrical system too. If it breaks contact when at pressure then its operating. I would install it into the relay switching circuit rather than the hot supply side of the relay though. You just need to deactivate the relay and turn off the big current.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk cause AB turned it back on!!

Winnie
19th January 2016, 05:22 PM
That yellow cap is a bit dodgy? Safe but not outstanding!!

I wouldn't call it safe. In a static environment it would be fine but we are talking about being in a car with heaps of vibration. It will come loose. Hope it doesn't start a fire.

Skitzyrex
19th January 2016, 07:16 PM
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/205.jpg

That was a bit of a stuff around.... Lol

That yellow cap is a bit dodgy? Safe but not outstanding!! So the other end of that goes to the alligator clip to the positive battery.?

Consider the diagram I originally posted as an alternative rewire.

The pressure switch can be anywhere in your air system as long as it receives the system pressure. It can also really be Anywhere in the electrical system too. If it breaks contact when at pressure then its operating. I would install it into the relay switching circuit rather than the hot supply side of the relay though. You just need to deactivate the relay and turn off the big current.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk cause AB turned it back on!!

Haha, I bet it was. So firstly that left hand wire comes off that circuit breaker straight to the -ve battery clip. As for the relay, there wasn't any wire nor any loose wires that were connected to that tab.
And yes, the other end of that capped wire goes to +ve alligator clip. As for the cap, I too thinks it's a touch dodgey considering its cone from a factory like that. Surely if you're going to solder every other wire to the switch, circuit breaker and relay you'd do that one also. I will solder and shrink wrap before I'm done. [emoji106]

MyGU8
19th January 2016, 11:32 PM
Also remember a relay is usually used to transfer high current with low current trigger (in your case switch) if the switch is capable of taking high current then you won't need a relay given minimum voltage drop


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

threedogs
20th January 2016, 08:06 AM
Had a few PM's regarding the non return valve, its basically to hold pressure considering all connections are air tight.
With out a non return valve the pressure will escape back past the piston, causing the compressor to start again.
So remove the handle fit a non return valve then a pressure switch then a fitting of your choice most use Nitto

Or fit the non return valve as close to the compressor as you can.
This is if you are fitting the compressor in the cargo area or engine bay
if fitting in the engine bay be wary of the thermal cut out the compressor may have.

MudRunnerTD
21st January 2016, 07:18 PM
Bump for Yendor. Mate I see your online, this one seems simple enough but has done my head in mate? I keep looking at the first diagram and the photo and can't get my head around how this thing is even turning on???

BigRAWesty
21st January 2016, 07:27 PM
Bump for Yendor. Mate I see your online, this one seems simple enough but has done my head in mate? I keep looking at the first diagram and the photo and can't get my head around how this thing is even turning on???
The only thing I can think of is the relay is internally soldered lv negative to hv negative. .
But then why have the pin at all??

Yendor
21st January 2016, 07:37 PM
Electrically speaking install the pressure switch in the small red wire in-between the switch and the relay.

But... I have to ask why, unless you have installed an air tank.

Skitzyrex
21st January 2016, 08:40 PM
Bump for Yendor. Mate I see your online, this one seems simple enough but has done my head in mate? I keep looking at the first diagram and the photo and can't get my head around how this thing is even turning on???

Haha, mate from all the questions I've asked I'm no auto electrician. If you hadn't told me differently I would have thought it was normal. So I really don't know how it's working.

Bloodyaussie
21st January 2016, 09:07 PM
Electrically speaking install the pressure switch in the small red wire in-between the switch and the relay.

But... I have to ask why, unless you have installed an air tank.

Thats what i could not figure out... no tank for the switch anyway?

Mine is wired as Rodney has said...

MudRunnerTD
21st January 2016, 09:20 PM
Electrically speaking install the pressure switch in the small red wire in-between the switch and the relay.

But... I have to ask why, unless you have installed an air tank.

I have a pressure switch in my system without a tank because the manifold and the the hoses to the quick connects all hold air. All my connectors don't allow free flow so only allow flow when something is plugged in so the system pressurizes.

Skitzyrex
21st January 2016, 09:43 PM
Thats what i could not figure out... no tank for the switch anyway?

Mine is wired as Rodney has said...

The diagram is how it is now, not what I intend on doing. I'd like to in time to put a tank underneath.

Skitzyrex
21st January 2016, 09:44 PM
I have a pressure switch in my system without a tank because the manifold and the the hoses to the quick connects all hold air. All my connectors don't allow free flow so only allow flow when something is plugged in so the system pressurizes.

Hey MudRunner, what non return valve did you use and was it Npt or bsp? Thanks

MudRunnerTD
21st January 2016, 09:51 PM
I'll take a pic and post it up for you in the next day or so mate.

Yendor
21st January 2016, 09:52 PM
I have a pressure switch in my system without a tank because the manifold and the the hoses to the quick connects all hold air. All my connectors don't allow free flow so only allow flow when something is plugged in so the system pressurizes.


Darren, I wasn't having a go at you at all mate.

How you use your vehicle(s) is totally different to how most people on here use them.

The OP hasn't stated that he wants to run lockers or an air tank so I asked the question.

MudRunnerTD
21st January 2016, 10:02 PM
Darren, I wasn't having a go at you at all mate.

How you use your vehicle(s) is totally different to how most people on here use them.

The OP hasn't stated that he wants to run lockers or an air tank so I asked the question.

Nah all good Rodney, no offense at all was taken mate. No dramas bud.

threedogs
23rd January 2016, 11:31 AM
You could fit this into the system Im not sure those other Fuel NRV would hold and pressure

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Non-return-valve-018-Check-valve-one-way-valve-on-board-air-for-Viair-compressor-/290818557368?hash=item43b62305b8:m:mrHSoLfy5g3cPeG CCgHMtRA

@ MR I take it all your air fittings terminate with Female Nitto style fittings.
OOI why do you want to pressurize such a small system, thinking your
compressor is hard mounted somewhere and maybe a line going to some lockers
and an outlet maybe front and rear. Think I just answered it myself lol Doh

@ Skts why do you want to hold pressure???

the evil twin
23rd January 2016, 12:11 PM
These are the Air Check Valves that I use... $2 bucks each http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271455693301?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
These are the Pressure Relief valves I use... $2.50 each http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/391265177647?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
These are the gauges I use... $12 each http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/351546917897?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I use that style Check Valve in line with Push In fittings of approp size.
The Pressure Relief blow off value depends on the system pressure so you select one as appropriate.
I try and have a gauge where it is easily visible, not required if the setup already has one and you can see it.

Don't forget to bleed off any pressure when you finish up.
Without a check valve many systems will slowly leak down when they are off so no biggee
Once you introduce check valves you introduce the possibility of trapping high pressure air in lines and if you get high thermal expansion you risk blowing a fitting or bursting a line.

Skitzyrex
23rd January 2016, 06:13 PM
@ Skts why do you want to hold pressure???

Cheers mate. I would like a tank underneath and just want to install the compressor the one time to suit. I also want two outlets as well as having the trigger style tyre inflators that don't constantly flow.

Skitzyrex
23rd January 2016, 06:22 PM
These are the Air Check Valves that I use... $2 bucks each http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271455693301?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
These are the Pressure Relief valves I use... $2.50 each http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/391265177647?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
These are the gauges I use... $12 each http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/351546917897?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I use that style Check Valve in line with Push In fittings of approp size.
The Pressure Relief blow off value depends on the system pressure so you select one as appropriate.
I try and have a gauge where it is easily visible, not required if the setup already has one and you can see it.

Don't forget to bleed off any pressure when you finish up.
Without a check valve many systems will slowly leak down when they are off so no biggee
Once you introduce check valves you introduce the possibility of trapping high pressure air in lines and if you get high thermal expansion you risk blowing a fitting or bursting a line.

Cheers for all that mate. Thank you.

Skitzyrex
31st January 2016, 11:11 AM
Think of a relay as a Cross [ + ] rather than a square. 86 to 85 is the pos/neg switching side of the circuit that drives the gate (the relay positive) once the switch is activated 86 and 85 complete and open the relay and allow 12v to flow across the relay from 87 to 30 (Big current) .

In the image below i would fit the pressure switch between the switch and the 86 pin and just run it as an inline switch. In - Out. Obviously it needs the air line connected too.


64046

Hey mate,
After cutting the wires away this is what I have coming from the compressor. The small black wire went to the on/off switch. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/383.jpg
So what do with this wire now that I'll have the switch between the fuse and battery?
Would you be so kind as to join these up as every single diagram I've seen whilst searching here and the web only has two wires from the compressor http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/384.jpg


Thanks.

MudRunnerTD
31st January 2016, 11:10 PM
Thats interesting? it appears there may be a built in Relay into the Compressor box? i assume that black wire is switching a Relay in the box and the 2 heavy wires are +/- straight to the battery.

The diagram in my quote above should be the correct diagram for you. Can you take a pic of the whole compressor as it is so i know what it looks like. Can you take that end panel off that the wires are coming through?n Be careful as it looks like it forms part of the chassis for the compressor.

Skitzyrex
31st January 2016, 11:58 PM
Thats interesting? it appears there may be a built in Relay into the Compressor box? i assume that black wire is switching a Relay in the box and the 2 heavy wires are +/- straight to the battery.

The diagram in my quote above should be the correct diagram for you. Can you take a pic of the whole compressor as it is so i know what it looks like. Can you take that end panel off that the wires are coming through?n Be careful as it looks like it forms part of the chassis for the compressor.

It's a ironman flomax pro.
The small wire was direct to the switch, the thick black went via the relay and circuit breaker to the -ve battery and the thick red went to +ve battery. All as per my first diagram.
Here is a pic attached and it looks the same as many others I've seen.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/02/1.jpg
I'm not sure about undoing that plate as it may fall apart in my hands. Haha
This also may explain to you why it was working when you didn't think it should be?

threedogs
1st February 2016, 09:05 AM
What are you trying to acheive, Ive just brought this style pump
in hindsight thought I should have brought the double ended one
I can only see a need for a pressure switch if its fitted to a tank,
or on a closed system that needs to hold pressure which is it ???

Skitzyrex
1st February 2016, 12:38 PM
What are you trying to acheive, Ive just brought this style pump
in hindsight thought I should have brought the double ended one
I can only see a need for a pressure switch if its fitted to a tank,
or on a closed system that needs to hold pressure which is it ???

Initially it will be a closed system and I will be adding a tank. [emoji106]

threedogs
1st February 2016, 12:44 PM
The pressure switch is fitted into the airline somewhere,
I cant see why you've pulled your compressor apart to fit one.
Or Im getting it all wrong again lol

So youre hard mounting the compressor, WOW good luck finding room
After mine arrived I gave up on that idea. LOL They're huge
You'll still need a manifold to mount the pressure switch

OOI can I ask what you paid for you Flow Max compressor?

Skitzyrex
1st February 2016, 02:57 PM
The pressure switch is fitted into the airline somewhere,
I cant see why you've pulled your compressor apart to fit one.
Or Im getting it all wrong again lol

So youre hard mounting the compressor, WOW good luck finding room
After mine arrived I gave up on that idea. LOL They're huge
You'll still need a manifold to mount the pressure switch

OOI can I ask what you paid for you Flow Max compressor?

All good mate, it fits great next to the left hand side of the draws so will be nice and protected. I have also ordered the manifold to suit. [emoji106]
I can't remember exactly but think it was around $150??

threedogs
1st February 2016, 04:21 PM
If you run a tank try and use copper and insulate it as best you can,
it will get very hot,
Thats a good price, I hoping these things pump very fast especially
when the pressures start getting up , thats when most others cant handle it..

the evil twin
1st February 2016, 04:40 PM
All good mate, it fits great next to the left hand side of the draws so will be nice and protected.

Make sure you get good airflow in there... Compressors get real hot and if they don't have any cooling air exchange then the thermal overload will keep tripping

Skitzyrex
1st February 2016, 09:54 PM
Can you take that end panel off that the wires are coming through?n Be careful as it looks like it forms part of the chassis for the compressor.

Curiosity got the better of me so I opened the chassis up to see where that wire went.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/02/6.jpg
And for those wanting to know what the inside looks like.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/02/7.jpg