Pedders check- lots failed. What can be done at home & where to purchase parts?

[Jonesy_sa]

Hi guys

I had a $28 Pedders suspension and Steering check completed on my 1991 Ford Maverick (TB42) which revealed a number of things. The cost for Pedders to rectify is around $3000 so I would like to replace as many parts myself using OEM/aftermarket. I am very happy with the service provided by Pedders but as my partner and I are both students i need to find a cheaper route.
Below is list of items I need to replace and Pedders part number for reference. I have attached images of the Pedders report as some items were NA or not assessed; if there is anything I should also check please advise!

Front Suspension:
Shocks - - Fail – LH leaking, Requires replacement (#9549 x 2)
Springs – Fail – sagged, Recommend Replacement 635mm is std height (#7701R / # 7701L)
Leading Arm & Bushes – Fail – Bushes Torn, Requires Replacement (#5890 / # EP9051)
Drag Link – Fail – Both tie rod ends worn (PDL5001)
Steering Damper – Fail – Leaking (#135015)
Steering Gear – Fail – Box leaking, clean and recheck.
Panhard Rod – Pass – RH bush oil soaked (#EP398)
Rear Suspension:
Shocks – Fail – Soft, Lacking Control, Recommend Replacement (#9550 x 2)
Springs – Fail – Sagged, Recommend Replacement 735mm is std height (7752R / 7752L)
Sway Bars and Bushes – Fail – Worn, 17.5mm (EP3366/16)
Other – Fail – RH axle seal weeping, diff weeping

Which of these items can be replaced at home in a garage and what brands/supplier would you recommend purchasing from or those to AVOID?

I plan on installing a 2” lift kit (shocks, damper, springs), in which case do I need to purchase change any of the above with offsets etc?

Cheers guys
63827
63828
63829

[JME_GU]

I have done the springs, shocks, sway bar bushes, leading arm (or radius arm) bushes and steering damper. The shocks, sway bar bushes and steering damper can be done without even jacking up the car. Springs are easy to do but helps if you have high jack stands - note that if you lift the car you will need longer brake lines, longer diff breather lines and a brake bias extension bracket. Several manufacturers sell a kit that has everything you need.

I did the radius arm bushes but took the arms into a shop to for them to press in the bushes with a hydraulic press, they charged about $80. If you are going to do it yourself I would buy an electric rattle gun, makes it much easier and quicker. The high lift axle stands and needed because you need to held the chassis high enough while dropping the diff down to full extension.

[my third 256]

brake lines dont need to be extended only if going higher

[garett]

i did a 2 inch lift in my mav, it became a little twichy in the steering put in 2 deg offset bushes drives nice. some people say its fine without the caster correction. i would also do the brake bias extension for the rear brakes simple plate with holes in it.
oh and number 1 tip clean all the threads before you take the nut off !!!! will save you hours, consider new spring mats i didn't and it now groans around corners and when i take off or stop. i would do all of this work at home but i know my way around a spanner, so its more what do you feel comfortable doing or what tools do you have access to. for my 2 cents i'd pay someone to sort out the steering box, maybe remove it and take it to them?

[BigRAWesty]

Out of that whole list the only thing you may need to get done is the bushes changed out..
Maybe the diff seal if your not confident..
If you plan on a 2" lift then that clears most of it straight up..
A lift kit will fix spring height, shocks, dampener, leading arm (or as we call em radius arms) bushes which you will need a press to do so may be one of the things outsourced. They may need to be changed to the 2 degree castor bushes.
Grab an adjustable steering/ drag rod to center the steering wheel and 2 new rod ends for the tie rod and that's that sorted.

Steering box will more than likely be a loose hose clamp on the return line..
Degrease it, tighten the clamps and monitor it.

As above the diff seal might be an outsourcing job if your not keen..
Hope that helps

[threedogs]

All bushes need to be OE from what Ive heard

[happygu]

The standard rubber Nissan OE Bushes will last longer than any of the poly ones, so stick to these if you can.

Don't know how handy you are, but all this can be done at home if you have some mechanical knowledge.

Getting bushes out of the arms can be tricky without a press, or a vice and some pipe or sockets of the right sizes.....
The hardest thing sometimes is getting the nuts undone on the shocks, as they can be quite difficult to undo with a bit of road grime and corrosion - bit of penetrene, WD40, or Freeze/Release Spray will be your friend, and make it a bit easier.

[BigRAWesty]

I did see a neat trick to remove bushes with a thin drill bit.
I'm keen to try it next time lol

[mudnut]

I have done most of the jobs you have listed, by taking my time. The only special equipment I have are a drift ( I paid $10 for it to be machined), that I use to press the bushes out of the radius arms on my elcheapo 10 ton press. To make repairing the diff and transfer case, I also made a flange spanner with a long piece of pipe welded to it.

[mudnut]

I did see a neat trick to remove bushes with a thin drill bit.
I'm keen to try it next time lol

Do tell........

[JME_GU]

brake lines dont need to be extended only if going higher

I used 2 inch flex coils, I needed longer brake lines as the old brake lines were stopping the diff from drooping. I also needed new diff breather line on the back and just undid one bolt on the breather line on the front.

[JME_GU]

If you are not sure whether you are up to doing the job yourself, have a look on youtube. There are heaps of videos of people fitting a lift kit to a patrol

[BigRAWesty]

Do tell........
The video I saw used about a 5mm bit

https://youtu.be/O4DpNTVIzMg

[Dhuck]

Do tell........

Drill around between the crush tube and shell. Cut the shell with a hack saw or similar. Knock out the old shell. Trick will be getting the new bush's in.

[Jonesy_sa]

Thanks guys - much appreciated! I'm quite confident working on cars especially if with a video or explanation, however usually small or falcon size vehicles. Its good to know the extra weight doesn't hamper the process.

I use the vehicle mainly for touring and daily driving at the moment. I don't regularly tow and don't plan to, no heavy off-roading or rocking crawling where flex is important. Some mud, sand, and general rough track driving.


I did the radius arm bushes but took the arms into a shop to for them to press in the bushes with a hydraulic press, they charged about $80. The high lift axle stands are needed.
I have a press, its only small perhaps 10 ton but should be sufficient. Can you provide a link to ideal jack stands and what weight range of trolley jack should I consider? Bottle jacks scare the hell out of me.



i did a 2 inch lift in my mav, it became a little twichy in the steering put in 2 deg offset bushes drives nice. some people say its fine without the caster correction. i would also do the brake bias extension for the rear brakes simple plate with holes in it.
I also have read mixed options however if i am changing out these bushes I may as well order them with 2 degree offset. Does the offset however make it tricky to press them in?
I assume the extension plate is a DIY job and not a purchased part?


.
Steering box will more than likely be a loose hose clamp on the return line.. Degrease it, tighten the clamps and monitor it. As above the diff seal might be an outsourcing job if your not keen.. Hope that helps

The steering box i need to look into. I was told the original pressure hose blew and a replacement was too expensive so one was fabbed up however i believe instead of using the original fitting at the box a screw in type was used with steel riser that loops back down. Imagine a U-Shackle upside down. As to whether its weeping or from the original blow out I'll need to check. I'm told since doing this it 'whines' because of the loop. I would like to replace with an original hose!


All bushes need to be OE from what Ive heard
Is OE and OEM the same? I'm under the impression that OME is the same but made by a third-party? Generally i don't use poly bushes however do they have a place, such as on the sway bars? I'm just nervous that although they have a ifetime warranty their stiffness will increase the likelihood of structural cracks.


I have done most of the jobs you have listed, by taking my time. The only special equipment I have are a drift ( I paid $10 for it to be machined), that I use to press the bushes out of the radius arms on my elcheapo 10 ton press. To make repairing the diff and transfer case, I also made a flange spanner with a long piece of pipe welded to it.
I usually use sockets, I would be stocked if i could have a drift machined for $10!!!


If you are not sure whether you are up to doing the job yourself, have a look on youtube. There are heaps of videos of people fitting a lift kit to a patrol
Thanks mate!

[Jonesy_sa]

I guess the first step is deciding on a lift kit. My vehicle is stock apart from a heavy duty bullbar, i dont know the weight but its pretty solid. I don't tow or plan on any rock crawling or similar. There is no constant load on the vehicle and when we go away its just tent, chairs esky with ice and usual odds and sods with two adults. Typical TB42 duel fuel maverick.
Picture:
63840
I searched on ebay for 2" GQ lift kits and found the following around $500-600:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/250mm-Lift-Kit-Nissan-Patrol-GQ-Y60-GU-Y61-Super-Shock-Spring-Steering-Damper-/131611465153?hash=item1ea4a795c1:g:GDYAAOSwQTVWA8~ R
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-GQ-GU-PATROL-ARCHM4X4-KING-SPRING-2INCH-50mm-SUSPENSION-LIFT-KIT-/161460089698?hash=item2597c57362:g:WekAAOSwF1dUSH-p
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-50mm-Full-Suspension-Lift-Kit-Nissan-Patrol-GQ-Y60-GU-Y61-Coil-Springs-Shocks-/131442342825?hash=item1e9a92fba9:g:~x0AAOSwpDdVfDB 4http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-50mm-Suspension-Lift-Kit-Nissan-Patrol-GQ-Y60-GU-Y61-Springs-Shocks-Damper-/360767229084?hash=item53ff670c9c:g:alcAAOxy4t1Sggj P
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-50mm-Suspension-Lift-Kit-GQ-Y60-GU-Y61-Patrol-Coil-Springs-Shocks-Long-Travel-/360919793203?hash=item54087efe33:g:ymEAAOxyi-ZTXwUZ

What do you think of these cheap kits?
What would you recommend as to springs HD, SD etc

[BigRAWesty]

I would go either of the first 2..
Lovells do a good spring. .
Simply nissan don't do a castor correction bush.. so you have to buy aftermarket..
But every other bush keep genuine.. they last much longer..

Personally I'd ring lovells and chat about spring rates..
See if they do a +50 front and stock weight rear for you.

[ashmccormick]

Only job you might struggle with on the driveway is the radius arms, some go in easy but mine were an absolute dog and that was using a hoist at a mates garage with a few helpers to roll the diff into position properly... Wasnt a hard job, was just glad we had the room under the hoist for leverage etc.

[growler2058]

I havent read this entire thread. But i do need to say KEEP THE EFF AWAY FROM THOSE ROGUE BASTARDS!. They quoted us 3k for the wifes Prado to stop/fix it from toeing in. Spoke to a fella at work and he said careful Pedders have a BAD BAD name in NSW. Long story short went to a 4wd joint here and it was around $300. PEDDERS SUCK BALLS

[dads tractor]

Yeah watch Pedders also on adel gumtree 2.5 tonne trolly jack mt barker $75

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-adelaide/trolley+jack/k0l3006878

[threedogs]

Ive known ppl who have swapped out their suspension and replaced
it with std hieght coils..They are missing the benefit of extra clearance
and handling, a 50mm lift will allow this

[mudnut]

When you get the larger sockets for the job, I found that the deeper impact ones were needed in some instances.

[jack]

Do a google search on 'peddars scam', I think these guys were on ACA some years back.

[Bigcol]

Hi guys

I had a $28 Pedders suspension and Steering check completed on my 1991 Ford Maverick (TB42) which revealed a number of things. The cost for Pedders to rectify is around $3000 so I would like to replace as many parts myself using OEM/aftermarket. I am very happy with the service provided by Pedders but as my partner and I are both students i need to find a cheaper route.
Below is list of items I need to replace and Pedders part number for reference. I have attached images of the Pedders report as some items were NA or not assessed; if there is anything I should also check please advise!

Front Suspension:
Shocks - - Fail – LH leaking, Requires replacement (#9549 x 2)
Springs – Fail – sagged, Recommend Replacement 635mm is std height (#7701R / # 7701L)
Leading Arm & Bushes – Fail – Bushes Torn, Requires Replacement (#5890 / # EP9051)
Drag Link – Fail – Both tie rod ends worn (PDL5001)
Steering Damper – Fail – Leaking (#135015)
Steering Gear – Fail – Box leaking, clean and recheck.
Panhard Rod – Pass – RH bush oil soaked (#EP398)
Rear Suspension:
Shocks – Fail – Soft, Lacking Control, Recommend Replacement (#9550 x 2)
Springs – Fail – Sagged, Recommend Replacement 735mm is std height (7752R / 7752L)
Sway Bars and Bushes – Fail – Worn, 17.5mm (EP3366/16)
Other – Fail – RH axle seal weeping, diff weeping

Which of these items can be replaced at home in a garage and what brands/supplier would you recommend purchasing from or those to AVOID?

I plan on installing a 2” lift kit (shocks, damper, springs), in which case do I need to purchase change any of the above with offsets etc?

Cheers guys
63827
63828
63829

funny, thats almost the same type of quote I got from them here in Perth

was even funnier as I had just put in new suspension, I only wanted them to look at the control arms, to see if they were shagged

never been back to them