GQ Fixing...

[RedRoadRunner]

Hey guys, I had a bit of a forum search, but couldn't find what I was after (I'm sure it was there, I'm just not good at looking!)

Anyway, I've recently acquired a 3l Petrol GQ Patrol, and it needs a little TLC.

It is my first Nissan, let alone Patrol, and I figure I should go to the experts.

Firstly - what can I do to get the best out of the fuel? it drinks like...well I'm sure you've all heard it before.
(Without going into massive costs that I'll never recoup in savings or sale value. I can carry Jerries if I have to)
but if there's something relatively cheap and I can tune up at home, it would be worth it.

The hoses etc from from the outside to the air cleaner are all deteriorated, the parts people reckon they can't get them.
If it comes to it, I'm happy as a pig in mud at the wreckers, but before that - does anyone know where I can find part numbers and the like, if I do their job for them, maybe the shops can get them in, or at least find equivalents.

are there any bugbears or gremlins with this model that I should look at? (The previous owner used it as a 7 seater for transporting all their kids everywhere and sold it because they got too big for the back seats. I suspect it has done minimal hard work, but probably also had minimal servicing. Everything looks original except the battery)


Thanks for your time guys!


Oh wait, remembered one more -

On start up, if I don't give it a rev (or set the choke) it dies. It does this hot or cold, just about every time. Once it starts revving it is fine.

Thoughts?

[BigRAWesty]

Welcome mate.
Nothing wrong with the rb30's. Good solid little engine but yes they do like the fuel..
I'm pretty sure that the rb30 also came out in the VL commodore and is also the early skyline engine..
So that should assist with parts..
As for part numbers we carry pretty much all the manuals here on the forum so if your keen subscribe for $25??? A year or just get to 25 posts for a free copy.

So depends on how deep the wallet is. Being a na petrol they are always going to use fuel as they are hauling 2.5ton of vehicle..
But any mods like exhaust system and intake manifolds to allow the engine to breath will increase power which means less go pedal needed when cruzing..
A rather big step is fuel injection..
That can be quite costly as you need the ecu, loom, fuel pumps and of course the injection manifold..
But you gain a heap in reliability and fuel saving. And power..

So all is not lost with the rb30.. have a dig as you may find some very cheap skyline or VL parts..

[RedRoadRunner]

Cheers :)

Yeah, it's been good so far. I went the way I did for simplicity and maintenance rather than power and fuel economy. I was aware of the engine models wide use, so I thought parts would be straightforward, but I guess there are so many cars around now that they can't justify stock piling spares from 20 years ago. Hopefully the wreckers are not picked clean.

I just ordered a shop manual, and it is arriving tomorrow (apparently), wish I knew about the freebies 5 minutes ago :P
Oh well, doesn't hurt to have a copy in the truck anyway.

[BigRAWesty]

Did you get a proper paper copy or pay for a cd from eBay?
If your keen on power you could always hunt for a written of turbo skyline....

[RedRoadRunner]

book from bursons.

[Throbbinhood]

How much is it actually drinking per 100km and on what size tyres/accessories/roof rack etc.

When you say it dies unless you rev it. Is that all the time, or just on start up? Will it idle by itself at all?

[RedRoadRunner]

It is on 31s, highway tyres, with a roofrack. From what I've read, I don't think it drinks much more than anyone elses - It just feels thirsty compared to my 'rolla.

It varies from 14/100 if I bob along at 80 to 18/100 if I crack into the wind at 110.

It idles fine, maybe a little low.
I don't think it's a problem, I am pretty sure I am just a muppet. I'll give the carby a clean and I am sure all will be well.

[BigRAWesty]

book from bursons.
Ow good. I prefer my paper one. Nothing worse than have hands covered in grease and the phone locks itself just before your read the next step lol

[RedRoadRunner]

fo-own? what's a fo-own?


Welp. I just found all the oil check/fill plugs are tight as a scotsmans wallet. Put some liquid mechanic on while I make a morning brew, hopefully they'll come out.

[threedogs]

Former owner ,,,,,no idea
Keep your tyre pressures up for hwy duties
I run 40psi on the HWY and 35psi around town

[RedRoadRunner]

Yeah, I keep 'em up on the highways.

(A little snafu in barcaldine when the belt on the servos compressor went and I let half the air out before I noticed. Had to gumby down the road to another joint)

[Throbbinhood]

Take the rack off and I'm sure you'll see a noticeable improvement, especially on your usage at 110. FWIW, 35's, winch, barwork, fully loaded inside with tools/passengers/camping stuff,, I get around 15-16L/100kms on reasonably flat hwy's (think pakky to sale type trip). That's a mix of 100-110kph. I'm happy with that.

[BigRAWesty]

As above the roof rack can add 1-2L / 100 at highway speeds. Knocked of 1.5L/100 when I took mine off and can comfortably cruze at 110 now. That extra drag is huge

[RedRoadRunner]

The rack does look a bit like a wind anchor. I have debated taking it off. I don't really use it, but it seems a shame to lose the option?

In other news- I can't get the pre-air-filter duct for love nor money (well, I can get it for money, but I won't pay it for a bit of hose) so other options - Does anyone have a DIY solution for replacing the ducting for the Pre Filter, or suggestions for aftermarket prefilters altogether?

[threedogs]

got a pic of what your trying to do.
Roof rack will lose 50ks a tank off your range

[BigRAWesty]

Yea throw up a pic. Well sort ya out

[RedRoadRunner]

63277

Where the arrows are there should be some duct to collect air from the wheel arch and go to the air filter.
New spares are stupid $$$. I might swing by a wrecker, but are there other options other than just trying to replace it with the original stuff?

[BigRAWesty]

The td gq draw air from the hole in front of wheel arch. We also run a vertical pre filter..
Our output hose is 3" so you make able to get some silicone bits and a reducer to take it down to what you want.

[BigRAWesty]

And just noticed you are a backwards driver lol. Left hand drive.
It's all backwards to us lol..

[BigRAWesty]

You can see our vertical pre filter bottom right of this picture
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/100.jpg

[RedRoadRunner]

That's not a picture of my car, but it shows where the conduit should be from the air filter (missing on my car too)

It runs fine enough picking up air in the engine bay, but i'd like to put something in there anyway.

[mudnut]

G'day and welcome to the forum. Have a look at this thread: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints
there is a picture of an RB30 engine bay.
The Rb30 carby has a heater grid at the base of the carby. I removed mine as it was already disintergrating and bits were getting chewed up by the engine. I got better performance and economy as a bonus. I had to reinstall the preheat flap to help with warming the engine up as I live way down south, but it may not be an issue for you.

[Bigcol]

G'day and welcome to the forum. Have a look at this thread: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints
there is a picture of an RB30 engine bay.
The Rb30 carby has a heater grid at the base of the carby. I removed mine as it was already disintergrating and bits were getting chewed up by the engine. I got better performance and economy as a bonus. I had to reinstall the preheat flap to help with warming the engine up as I live way down south, but it may not be an issue for you.


I'm wondering if someone has already tried this, and butchered it before he brought it...........
hence the hard to start.........

[BigRAWesty]

G'day and welcome to the forum. Have a look at this thread: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28517-RB30-Facts-Figures-and-Helpful-Hints
there is a picture of an RB30 engine bay.
The Rb30 carby has a heater grid at the base of the carby. I removed mine as it was already disintergrating and bits were getting chewed up by the engine. I got better performance and economy as a bonus. I had to reinstall the preheat flap to help with warming the engine up as I live way down south, but it may not be an issue for you.
Here he is. Was waiting for you.
How are you going for parts for yours MN

[RedRoadRunner]

Hey Mudnut, your thread was one of the first I read. I almost stole your pics to explain the situation.

A few people have mentioned the carby heat grid, so I guess i'll check it out and see what the go is.

I'm and heading further and further south, so I the preheat think might become more relevant for me.

[RedRoadRunner]

Update: Well the Carby is off (funny, they always say never work under a car only supported by a jack, but they never say never work under a bonnet supported only by rickety metal stick).

It looks like someone already removed the little grid. Plus I found a sticker that said "Johnno was here" (or words to that effect)

Anyway, while it's off I'll empty a can of carby cleaner into it. Tighten all the screws, and carry on.

I've been reading through Dom14's carb rebuild from 2013, which was quite helpful (but more than I am interested in doing. I want to be back on the road this weekend!)

Is it worth replacing these gaskets?

632956329663294

[Throbbinhood]

For your airbox/air ducting - I've just run flexi hose from the end of my airbox to my snorkel.. I use a good quality air filter on the main filter unit and got rid of the pre-filter, haven't had any issues thus far. Gave my airbox a wipe out before I hit dirt last time, and whilst I could see dust on the outside of the filter, the inside part was clean (on the airbox as well).

[RedRoadRunner]

That's pretty much what I'm thinking, once I get the steering back together, I'll head to the shop and get a bit of hose and clamps.

[mudnut]

Here he is. Was waiting for you.
How are you going for parts for yours MN

Going Ok thanks Kallen. As for parts, they are few and far between.

[mudnut]

Update: Well the Carby is off (funny, they always say never work under a car only supported by a jack, but they never say never work under a bonnet supported only by rickety metal stick).

It looks like someone already removed the little grid. Plus I found a sticker that said "Johnno was here" (or words to that effect)

Anyway, while it's off I'll empty a can of carby cleaner into it. Tighten all the screws, and carry on.

I've been reading through Dom14's carb rebuild from 2013, which was quite helpful (but more than I am interested in doing. I want to be back on the road this weekend!)

Is it worth replacing these gaskets?

632956329663294

Retain the gaskets if they aren't brittle. I have slipped a small ball bearing into the pre-heat flap vacuum hose, for the warmer months.
I will retain the dust collector when/if I ever get a snorkel. I am thinking of fitting a clear bowl with a tap so I can drain it and also clean out the dust regularly. Also keep the deflector can that juts down into the inlet manifold as it is there for a purpose.

[RedRoadRunner]

1 vote for leave the gaskets - Good enough for me!

Back together she goes!

[dom14]

Ow good. I prefer my paper one. Nothing worse than have hands covered in grease and the phone locks itself just before your read the next step lol

It's not that bad. I just print the parts I need off the Haynes or factory manual. I've been doing it for a while, now pretty much 90% of the manuals are printed as separate chapters.
It's good to have colour photos, though even the publisher printed ones don't come with colour photos.

[dom14]

63277

Where the arrows are there should be some duct to collect air from the wheel arch and go to the air filter.
New spares are stupid $$$. I might swing by a wrecker, but are there other options other than just trying to replace it with the original stuff?

I removed mine and it's been running like that for years(one of the rubber ducts was distorted from the heat of the exhaust over the time) It has no effect as far I can see.
Make sure to tune the carby properly and ignition and fuel system is in good condition.
When those three things are good, RB30 engine purrs.
Only thing is that rapidly changing Melbourne weather, combined with dual fuel ideally demands regular tuning, which nobody can be bothered with.
One day it purrs, the other day it runs like tired.
Generally, mine's happy in cooler weather. May be removing the prefiltering duct bits does have some effect.

[dom14]

Update: Well the Carby is off (funny, they always say never work under a car only supported by a jack, but they never say never work under a bonnet supported only by rickety metal stick).

It looks like someone already removed the little grid. Plus I found a sticker that said "Johnno was here" (or words to that effect)

Anyway, while it's off I'll empty a can of carby cleaner into it. Tighten all the screws, and carry on.

I've been reading through Dom14's carb rebuild from 2013, which was quite helpful (but more than I am interested in doing. I want to be back on the road this weekend!)

Is it worth replacing these gaskets?

632956329663294

Yes, replacing the gaskets is a very good idea if you are not into rebuilding the carby.
The only thing is that where I live, there are no places to buy the gaskets on their own.
They only come with the rebuild kit.(which is around $80-100)
I learnt to cut my own gaskets with gasket paper.
Whether you cut the gaskets or you buy them with the kit or you are using the old gaskets,
it's a good idea to paste a thin layer of Lithium Grease on both sides
of the gasket. This helps it to seat better, as well as allows to reuse the gasket next time.

Most agree with the removal of the grid. Experienced mechanic here(Altis007) advised me to leave it alone though.
So, I decided to fabricate a complete new base plate out of a thick flat piece of aluminium(same thickness as the stock one).
I haven't fitted it yet. There's a power connection to the heater grid from the side of it. Make sure you disconnect that as well.

If you look at the carby from the bottom of it, you can see three bolts holding the bottom throttle body to the middle float body.
Make sure to tighten those three bolts. They come loose over time.

[dom14]

Retain the gaskets if they aren't brittle. I have slipped a small ball bearing into the pre-heat flap vacuum hose, for the warmer months.
I will retain the dust collector when/if I ever get a snorkel. I am thinking of fitting a clear bowl with a tap so I can drain it and also clean out the dust regularly. Also keep the deflector can that juts down into the inlet manifold as it is there for a purpose.

Hey Craig,

I didn't understand the bit "fitting a clear bowl with a tap so I can drain it and also clean out the dust regularly"

About the deflector, you might have noticed my recent post about the deflector cup breaking into pieces and getting sucked into the inlet passages.
I was lucky that any small pieces did not get inside the bore. I decided not to pull the head out regardless of all the advice(didn't wanna do the back breaking job again. :))
I'm at the place thinking the deflector isn't that of a good thing, unless they can come up with a material that can make it last forever without breaking into pieces.
Other thing is that I can't think of anything I have done to cause the deterioration. I did remove the EGR system though.

No argument it's there for a reason though.

[dom14]

63277

Where the arrows are there should be some duct to collect air from the wheel arch and go to the air filter.
New spares are stupid $$$. I might swing by a wrecker, but are there other options other than just trying to replace it with the original stuff?

How on earth did you manage to get a left hander in down under??!! :D

[dom14]

63277

Where the arrows are there should be some duct to collect air from the wheel arch and go to the air filter.
New spares are stupid $$$. I might swing by a wrecker, but are there other options other than just trying to replace it with the original stuff?

You should be able to locate the bits and pieces you're after from wrecker. Check online.
I"m not sure the reason for the air filter being hard to find. It shouldn't be.(assuming you were talking about the main air cleaner on the top of the carby)

[mudnut]

Hey Craig,

I didn't understand the bit "fitting a clear bowl with a tap so I can drain it and also clean out the dust regularly"

About the deflector, you might have noticed my recent post about the deflector cup breaking into pieces and getting sucked into the inlet passages.
I was lucky that any small pieces did not get inside the bore. I decided not to pull the head out regardless of all the advice(didn't wanna do the back breaking job again. :))
I'm at the place thinking the deflector isn't that of a good thing, unless they can come up with a material that can make it last forever without breaking into pieces.
Other thing is that I can't think of anything I have done to cause the deterioration. I did remove the EGR system though.

No argument it's there for a reason though.

The dust is collected at the bottom of the collector body and there is a rubber bill which you occasionally squash to let the dust out. Water can be sucked in there, as the rubber goes hard and the slot doesn't seal. I am currently looking for a small moisture bowl that can be retro fitted, to the bottom of the collector.

[dom14]

The dust is collected at the bottom of the collector body and there is a rubber bill which you occasionally squash to let the dust out. Water can be sucked in there, as the rubber goes hard and the slot doesn't seal. I am currently looking for a small moisture bowl that can be retro fitted, to the bottom of the collector.

Ok, cool. I still don't understand it, but I think the reason is that parts you are referring to did not come with my unit for some reason, perhaps due to LPG conversion has done some mods to facilitate the conversion.

[mudnut]

This is what I want to do. There may be an easier way to do it. Any ideas?

[dom14]

This is what I want to do. There may be an easier way to do it. Any ideas?

Cut a round hole on the dust collector body using a hole cutter and epoxy the moisture & dust bowl.
Use a high quality epoxy like JB Weld.
If the dust collector body is metal, you can also consider MIG welding.
But, that would make the job more time consuming, as you have to remove any paint on the welding area of the metal.
I think epoxy is the way to go.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130958110906?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[RedRoadRunner]

Hey Dom, thanks for the tips. I got a lot out of some of your other threads.

I am a bit short of lithium grease at the moment , (should be coming today) but the carby is already back on. I'm not sure I can be effed taking it off again.

I wasn't talking about the main air cleaner, but the pre filter (dust separator? the thing MN drew a pic of a few posts ago) and the piping from the wheel arch to it, and then to the air cleaner.

A few people seem to think it doesn't do much and it's not worth losing sleep over.
Buying the parts is $$$ ex Japan, because Nissan hates everyone.
I'll swing by a wrecker, if there's a decent one to grab I'll get it, otherwise some flexihose and clamps as recommended by another here.

Another option I am considering is a high-flow filter just jammed on somewhere to keep out the big stuff, leaves etc, then the main air cleaner for the rest.


I'm currently coming un-stuck with not being about to get the diff fill plugs unstuck.
Sort of bringing my adventure to a grinding halt to not be able to undo a few bloody screws.


Edit: Just called 4 parts places - no one carries fill/drain plugs. Can't afford to destroy them in the process....

[Throbbinhood]

Tried patrolapart for your diff plugs?

[RedRoadRunner]

Unfortunately I can't get things delivered, as I'm not in any particular place, as it were.

I'd like to go there, but I am not sure if my route takes me through lilydale (lovely place, good pool hall) this time around.

Tried to get a high flow filter to use as a pre-filter today. Nothing in either 2 1/2" or 3 1/2" (the sizes of flange, depending on where it goes)

I feel like my new truck is being deliberately difficult when I specifically bought the old thing for its simplicity, and ease/cheapness of maintenance!

[dom14]

Hey Dom, thanks for the tips. I got a lot out of some of your other threads.

I am a bit short of lithium grease at the moment , (should be coming today) but the carby is already back on. I'm not sure I can be effed taking it off again.

I wasn't talking about the main air cleaner, but the pre filter (dust separator? the thing MN drew a pic of a few posts ago) and the piping from the wheel arch to it, and then to the air cleaner.

A few people seem to think it doesn't do much and it's not worth losing sleep over.
Buying the parts is $$$ ex Japan, because Nissan hates everyone.
I'll swing by a wrecker, if there's a decent one to grab I'll get it, otherwise some flexihose and clamps as recommended by another here.

Another option I am considering is a high-flow filter just jammed on somewhere to keep out the big stuff, leaves etc, then the main air cleaner for the rest.


I'm currently coming un-stuck with not being about to get the diff fill plugs unstuck.
Sort of bringing my adventure to a grinding halt to not be able to undo a few bloody screws.


Edit: Just called 4 parts places - no one carries fill/drain plugs. Can't afford to destroy them in the process....

Lithium grease is preferred 'cos of the white colour as well as lithium in it. But, I reckon regular grease can do the job as well.
Don't bother to pull the carby out if you've already put it back in.
Lithium grease is dirt cheap. It's usually the same price as normal grease.

The auxiliary filter you're referring to is not on my RB30 Patrol for years. It runs fine without it as far as I can tell.
I'm sure it's nice to have it, but if you don't have it, I wouldn't go to the length of chasing a one.
If you come across a one in a wrecking yard, go for it, otherwise don't worry about it, 'cos I don't think it's that critical.
Just make sure the main air filter seats pretty well and you clean it regularly.
I think that auxiliary filter is there to remove the dust and moisture from the intake air, 'cos the plumbing with it ends up fitting on
to the side panel of the vehicle. I reckon if you install a snorkel, it won't matter at all.(No it does matter, when raining & heavy dust)
Other than that, having it can help in allowing bit more cooler air into the intake from the side of the vehicle.

For removing the diff and gearbox drain and fill plugs, I made my own tool out of two bolts from hardware store(Bunnings)
There are two sizes. One for the diffs and the other for the gearbox.
Basically, get two bolts(10-14mm from memory) and cut them short(if they are long ones) & file the ends to square shape(drain
and fill bungs of the diff & gearbox are square shape)
Angle grinder or a file can do the job in no time. You can either measure the bung sizes from the diff & gearbox or just
grind/file while checking it by pushing into the bungs, until you get it right.
Doesn't take that long.
Factory tool that does the same job cost a fortune.
I couldn't justify paying that much for a tool that I only use once every five years or so.

Just make sure to remove the fill plug, before you remove the drain plug. It's not uncommon to find out the fill plug not budging after removing the drain plug and the oil. :)

If you are going pass Melbourne East, you can certainly borrow the above tool(s) I made.

[mudnut]

After coming back from the Border track the dust/collector was chokkers with dust and the air filter was fairly clean. Also it acts as a suedo Hiclone:)

[dom14]

After coming back from the Border track the dust/collector was chokkers with dust and the air filter was fairly clean. Also it acts as a suedo Hiclone:)

Yeah, Craig. No argument it is put there for a reason. How do you clean the dust collector?
Is it as easy as cleaning the main air filter?

Sorry, I was wrong about the dust collector being not useful with a snorkel. I guess dust and moisture/water collection cab be even more important
with a snorkel during dust storms & raining.

Come to think of it, I'll find mine from the shed somewhere and fit it in with new plumbing.
I do remember now, it was the badly deteriorated rubber plumbing caused me to remove it.

[mudnut]

I usually pull housing out and clean it with hot soapy water and a brush. If I know I am going on a really dusty trip, I sometimes wipe the inside of the separator and air filter housing with a clean but oily rag. A lot of dust gets stuck to the oil and it is only a little work to clean it all.

[RedRoadRunner]

Lithium grease is preferred 'cos of the white colour as well as lithium in it. But, I reckon regular grease can do the job as well.
Don't bother to pull the carby out if you've already put it back in.
Lithium grease is dirt cheap. It's usually the same price as normal grease

I am sure it is all much of a muchness, but Lithium grease is all through my Hilux, so if I do it all the same, I don't have to try to remember in future.

There are two sizes. One for the diffs and the other for the gearbox.
I think mine were all 1/2" square drive for the lot?
I will check and confirm....

Got (most) of the plugs out, with judicious use of levers, heat, and persuasion. It appears the last bloke loctite'd the plugs in.

Hoping I can get replacement plugs. I'm sure I can find the fill plugs. I might have to re-use the magnetic drain plugs (they're a bit less !"£$d in any case)

I was going to do the whole lot (Gearbox, Transfer case, & diffs) with Penrite 80w90. (Again, it's the same thing all through the lux & my mate's cars*, so I don't have to think about it and try to remember what goes where.)


*Except the bloke with a Jeep, because he's a sook.

[mudnut]

Mine is a '94 and it uses Auto Transmission Fluid (ATF) in the transfer case.

[dom14]

Got (most) of the plugs out, with judicious use of levers, heat, and persuasion. It appears the last bloke loctite'd the plugs in.

Hoping I can get replacement plugs. I'm sure I can find the fill plugs. I might have to re-use the magnetic drain plugs (they're a bit less !"£$d in any case)

I was going to do the whole lot (Gearbox, Transfer case, & diffs) with Penrite 80w90. (Again, it's the same thing all through the lux & my mate's cars*, so I don't have to think about it and try to remember what goes where.)
.

Don't use any thread lockers. You can use a thin layer of silicon or teflon tape is even better.

Rear diff is an LSD, so make sure you use LSD diff oil.

Why do you need replacement plugs??!! Old plugs are ok unless you've damaged them.

[RedRoadRunner]

Why do you need replacement plugs??!! Old plugs are ok unless you've damaged them.

One does not simply removed glued in oil plugs....:rolleyes:

[dom14]

One does not simply removed glued in oil plugs....:rolleyes:

Yeah, it's a bad thing whoever put thread locker in there. Some of that hard goo will still be in the threads and it's pretty hard to remove them.
No wonder you've had hard time undoing the plugs.
Just use all the nice words you can think of to curse at the previous owner. :)

[RedRoadRunner]

Ah well, it's done now, and I've scraped as much crud as I can. Hopefully it'll be easier next time.

Now I'm off to find Mudnuts thread that tells me where the drain is for the coolant....

I think I'm up to my last shred of giving a damn before the next drive, so the last thing will be some grease.

I've done the main prop shafts / joints (no nipple on the front wheel drive coming from the transfer case??)
and the ball joints on the steering link/drag link.

Are there any other grease points I should know about/check?

[dom14]

wheel bearings? Not exactly a grease point, but worth checks.

[RedRoadRunner]

I really don't feel like doing a wheel bearing. I think I'd rather not know :P

[dom14]

I really don't feel like doing a wheel bearing. I think I'd rather not know :P

Yep. Don't fix it, if it ain't broken. :D
Just check for bearing play, noises, etc and adjust it accordingly. Saves you lot of trouble on long trips.

[RedRoadRunner]

Went for a test drive....blew a coolant hose....



:smile:

[dom14]

Went for a test drive....blew a heater hose....

Coolant hose?

[RedRoadRunner]

Yeah, that's what I said :D

Anyway, it's 3/8 hose. I happen to have some 3/8 fuel line kicking around. Does anyone have a good reason why I can't replace it with that, and be on my merry way? (I did the ol' googly-goo, and theories differ wildly from "same $#!+ different label, go for gold" to "You might as well drive off a cliff, burn the wreckage, and take a dump on the ashes, you'll probably do less damage!" (exaggerated for effect)

[mudnut]

Where exactly is the 3/8 hose?

[RedRoadRunner]

63411

Did that work?

Anyway, that's the fuel hose I've jammed on to for now (not that it does much at the moment, most of my brand new coolant is all over the ground), it goes from below the bleed screw to the intake manifold.

[mudnut]

Maybe just a short term solution.

[RedRoadRunner]

Maybe just a short term solution.

On what grounds?

Getting the "correct" hose is no drama. I am just curious what the difference is, I can't seem to find a straight answer.

I've heard of fuel turning the incorrect hoses tacky, which I guess is fair enough. Is there a reason I can't use any given hose for coolant?

It says 10 bar on it, so I guess it has some kind of pressure rating.

[mudnut]

I would think that coolant and fuel act differently to the types of rubber that are used. I used to smear any grease I had on the connections of the water hoses, until it was pointed out to me, that grease is a hydrocarbon and will make the coolant hose rubber deteriorate. I now use a food grade grease on all of the coolant system joints. The coolant will be at around 100 degrees, so that may cause the fuel hose to harden, maybe.

[dom14]

I would think that coolant and fuel act differently to the types of rubber that are used. I used to smear any grease I had on the connections of the water hoses, until it was pointed out to me, that grease is a hydrocarbon and will make the coolant hose rubber deteriorate. I now use a food grade grease on all of the coolant system joints. The coolant will be at around 100 degrees, so that may cause the fuel hose to harden, maybe.

I just use a very thin layer of silicone on coolant hoses. Yeah, I reckon vaseline is probably better than normal grease.

[garett]

for coolant hoses the best grease i've used is lube, its water based so no damage to coolant hoses.

[dom14]

for coolant hoses the best grease i've used is lube, its water based so no damage to coolant hoses.

lube? Where do you buy that from?

[garett]

the adult shop......

[dom14]

the adult shop......

damn...........:D

[RedRoadRunner]

I might stick to Vaseline, I'm sure there's some somewhere.


I've kicked around manufacturers pages, while nothing explicitly states I can use fuel line as coolant hose, it doesn't say not to (it does say not to use coolant hose as fuel line)
The hose is apparently rated to 150 deg, and 1 Mpa


Now it's just on the principle of wanting to know the difference between the hoses/rubber types 8-)

[dom14]

I might stick to Vaseline, I'm sure there's some somewhere.


I've kicked around manufacturers pages, while nothing explicitly states I can use fuel line as coolant hose, it doesn't say not to (it does say not to use coolant hose as fuel line)
The hose is apparently rated to 150 deg, and 1 Mpa


Now it's just on the principle of wanting to know the difference between the hoses/rubber types 8-)

It's safe to assume the composition of the rubber is slightly different to suit two different applications.
Petrol can deteriorate rubber by reacting with it. So, it's imperative to use petroleum resistant rubber for fuel lines.
Coolant lines have to deal with high pressures, higher heat & any chemical compositions antifreeze/antiboil coolants and other chemical additives may come with.
Coolant hoses can withstand pressure & heat, while the fuel hoses can withstand effects of petroleum over time.
So, it's safer to use the correct type hoses for the coolant and fuel lines and not to get them mixed.
In an emergency situation, you use whatever available to you, is a different thing.

[RedRoadRunner]

Yeah, I'm just trying to work out what the differences are, I know they are there - inner composition, strength of reinforcement, out composition etc.

So apparently fuel line (commonly?) has acrylonitrile and butadiene, which are the fuels/fats/oils/ resisting natures.

I found this chart from Goodyear - http://www.hosecon.com/pdf/engineering/common/goodyearchemchart.pdf

I'll have to play some brand-name comparo silly buggers work out what they mean by half of it, (it has annexes that help with this, so that is nice of them)


Okay, as far as I can tell, the fuel hose I have (Flexwing Petroleum equivalent) is suitable for continuous use with ethylene glycol. The only issue I can see is possibly a pressure rated. it is rated as "low pressure" but it is also rated at 1200kpa, so the definition of "low" is on an unspecified scale.