No boost! very high egts! nads installation!

[TheController427]

Hello all, first of all I am sorry if this has been covered, if so please direct me in the right direction if you can.

My 01 ZD30 patrol has a egt and boost guage so I could keep an eye on things and it never went over 15psi (no nads)
had a leaking intercooler though...

Just recently I got a CC intercooler and provent 200 with a egr blanking plate and still never went over 15psi but did spool up much quicker and held higher boost for longer.

Today I installed a dawes and needle valve received from northern 4x4 and they were installed as per the instructions given with the dawes and needle valve.
Now i have maximum 3psi boost at 2400rpm and cant seem to make it go any higher. I have double, triple checked the installation steps and have read countless threads on installing the valves but no luck:frown:

With the instructions recieved one of the first adjustments to do is to "wind the needle valve right in with the engine at idle, you will see the VNT rod on the turbo go right up into the actuator. Then open the needle valve, counter clockwise, until the rod drops about 1/4 inch"

I have tried this but the VNT rod wont even move. Have i done something wrong for this to happen? what do i need to check? is something at fault or am i at fault with installing the valves?

Thanks in advanced I appreciate your feedback!

Thecontroller427

[MEGOMONSTER]

You need to open up this valve to get boost up.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/58.jpg
Unlock the locking nut give it s few twists (sorry not sure which way) then lock it up again and check)

Then you may need to play with the other valve again to set that right once your boost is set at desired pressure.

[threedogs]

I think Mego got it wrong you need to increase
the pressure on the spring in the dawes By winding it in.

Close the needle till you have the Boost where you want it.

[mudski]

Hey there mate. If your winding in the needle valve and the rod isn't moving. Somethings not plumbed up right I reckon. Or. Just for curiosity sake, open up the needle valve and make sure the ball is seating properly and the spring is not bound up. The shouldn't be as these get pressure tested before they go out. But who's to say one was missed in the process....
So follow these steps. I'll try to make it understandable. Lol

Next to the boost control valve ( the valve under the MAF housing with three ports) is the air resonator box. This goes to one end of the needle valve.
The other end of the needle valve goes to the small T supplied in the Dawes kit.
The other side of this T goes to the vacuum pump supply. This can be found on the Di's coming from the RHS front of the motor and under the front part of the intercooler. These is a steel pipe that comes up from the RHS, then its rubber about half way over the top of the motor.
The last port on the small T goes to either of the small ports on the Dawes, doesn't matter which one. The other goes to the Turbo.
Then the final large port is the boost pickup. You either T into your existing boost gauge or pickup a new boost port anywhere from the Turbo to the intake manifold.

Because the VNT rod isn't moving when closing off the needle valve. Somethings definitely a miss..

Also the Dawes valve ONLY purpose in life is to limit your maximum boost pressure. So wind in for more boost, out for less. The needle valve is to control the spool up rate of the turbo, and to also set your 100kph boost level.

Note : The 100kph boost and max boost levels are pretty much a married couple. You move one you will need to move the other accordingly. So say if you had 16psi max and 10psi at 100 clicks. Your spool up was good, EGT's were good, the car went well. Then you decided to ramp up the boost until limp mode kicks in. Say 20psi. if you leave the needle valve as is, your spool up rate will slow down as you have widened the gap between max boost and 100kph. So you need to wind in the needle valve more to increase the spool up.
When you hitting 20psi levels or close, you may find the needle valve will be pretty much closed off and the VNT wont move at all. with a manual its doesn't matter so much as you can feather the throttle, hold a gear out longer or what ever to compensate. With an Auto its different and so you need to be a bit for delicate with the tuning side of things.

[JME_GU]

I haven't used a Dawes Valve but I have used other boost control systems, they can increase boost above factory, but they can't decrease boost below the factory setting. Maybe try checking everything you touched in the engine bay? Also, it sounds obvious but check that you haven't installed your boost gauge on the 'wrong' side of the Dawes valve as it will give a dodgy reading.

[threedogs]

Bumped,,,, any up dates on this

[TheController427]

Hello sorry for the late reply its been a busy month of work for me

I found some spare time and played around with the dawes and came to the conclusion that im retarded because it was the wrong way around! Got it all working well now. Moved the needle valve into the cab and have been adjusting to avoid limp mode. Dawes set on 16psi.

Thankyou all for your input!

Sorry for the hassle aswell

The controller



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[IronVoid]

If I had seen sooner I would have been able to help. I did exactly the same thing, easy mistake to make haha.

[threedogs]

All good most of us have a blonde moment at some stage, 16 psi is good
whats it boosting at 100kph