Noise during turning. Sshhhhuh sshhhuh sshhuh

[pedals]

Hey troll nerds. Got a brain bender for yaa.

There's this bloody noise when I turn. Like a loose brake pad or something. Looked at the brake pads. Everything looks fine.

Question.
Are the calipers supposed to be a bit loose?

I know they need to move on the slides for wear and operation etc. But should there be a slight preload on the pads?. Because there isn't. Only by 0.5 mm but it's there. I'm thinking this is cause of the sound as I turn. Just like sliding sound.

99 GU . Logbooked. Never been off-road. ( before now heh heh)

[Rumcajs]

Does that noise change when going in other direction e.g. turning left the noise is there but turning right is not? If the noise is emanating from the side which when turning is under larger load then it could be a wheel bearing.

The brake calipers are not preloaded, otherwise the brakes would be hanging on and you'd be cooking your brakes.

Regards

[Stropp]

Check that the inside of the tyre is not rubbing on anything that's what was causing mine to make noise on lock.

[pedals]

I don't think it's a tire rub problem, thanks all the same. Wheel bearing? could be. that could be an expensive exercise i fit's not though.

I though wheel bearing sounds where more of a roaring sound.

I'll keep investigating.

cheers.

Pedals.

[King_ady1]

I had an issue in my old lux when the bearings went. Started out a lot like u are describing. Then got worse.

Wheel bearing kits are usually about $100-$150. Not an ideal trouble shoot. But still, when we're they last done?? Now u would know ;) and if that's all it is than its probably cheaper than breaks.

[pedals]

True king_ady1. I'm planning on some touring from Queensland to Victoria and back over the Christmas holiday. I'd hate to get stuck with a blown wheel bearing, loaded up with wife kids dog etc.
lets say I want to change them myself.
So I take it the go is to drain the diff oil ( changing that anyway ) undo the bolts holding the housing in pull the shaft out ( by hand ? soft hammer ?) and get the bearings pressed off by a workshop with a press?

what about getting the new ones on ?


Does Anyone have a link to a walk through for this operation? I'm no stranger to working on my own vehicles but there's a limit to what can be done at a my home workshop. ( traded the spanner in for a mouse years ago )
Plus i've only had the GU for a few months and I'm very keen to learn more about this machine. It's made like no other.
Any advice here would be really appreciated.

Cheers

[dom14]

True king_ady1. I'm planning on some touring from Queensland to Victoria and back over the Christmas holiday. I'd hate to get stuck with a blown wheel bearing, loaded up with wife kids dog etc.
lets say I want to change them myself.
So I take it the go is to drain the diff oil ( changing that anyway ) undo the bolts holding the housing in pull the shaft out ( by hand ? soft hammer ?) and get the bearings pressed off by a workshop with a press?

what about getting the new ones on ?


Does Anyone have a link to a walk through for this operation? I'm no stranger to working on my own vehicles but there's a limit to what can be done at a my home workshop. ( traded the spanner in for a mouse years ago )
Plus i've only had the GU for a few months and I'm very keen to learn more about this machine. It's made like no other.
Any advice here would be really appreciated.

Cheers

If I understood correctly, we are talking about front wheel bearings. There's is no press involved. Front bearings are not hard to do. You just need to carefully hit the bearing races out. Then install the new bearing races using the old one, by hitting with it. I think in GU(unlike GQ)
rear bearing are not hard to do either, 'cos they are full floating bearings like front ones(if I'm correct).
You need a 54mm bearing socket to undo the bearing nut. You need HTB grease. And you need a good pair of hands, 'cos you're looking at a greasy job.
While you're going in there, you might wanna grease the front hub locking mechanism as well.(general purpose grease, not HTB, and make sure not to over grease the hubs).
Use the search tool, there're plenty of thread on this topic. Also download the Haynes & factory manuals. They also have all the step by step guide you're after.
Few sockets, ratchet, spanners, a shifter etc. Bearing socket is available on fleabay if you wanna buy it that way. It's fairly cheap on ebay.

[King_ady1]

Dom hit the nail on the head. Fronts are nice and easy. I usually 're grease the whole cc joint while I'm there. (May as well while it's apart). Not really any specialty tools needed. Look at some threads or on YouTube in advance and u should work it out nice and easy. I would do both sides at once if u can. Saves the hassle again in a couple months when the other goes.

I think my most annoying thing was circlip pliers. Can't remember if that was hilux or troll though...

[dads tractor]

Flat blade circlip expanding pliers and a fine blade screwdriver to pull the axle out to expose the clip groove on reassembly .

[King_ady1]

That's rings a bell.

[pedals]

My apologies.
It's the rears, I am picturing this in my head, but I neglected to say. Fronts don't worry me. Like you say pull em out grease em, put em back in adjust the wheel bearing.
I've got he workshop manual from here as well,all good.

I'm going to see it its the pads rattling loose up against the disc first. They have plenty of wear left. Could be the piston seized in the calliper and pads is flapping around in there. If that's all good. Then I'll get a new set of bearings and seals, pull the axles out, ( by hand I think, that's what the soft hammer question was all about ), if I can.

Do they indeed pull out by hand?

Then get a Mechanical place to press them off and press the new ones in and hope they don't get it wrong broken or destroy the bearing surface.

Sound like a plan? Or have I missed a crucial glaring detail?

Thanks for the input.

[dom14]

My apologies.
It's the rears, I am picturing this in my head, but I neglected to say. Fronts don't worry me. Like you say pull em out grease em, put em back in adjust the wheel bearing.
I've got he workshop manual from here as well,all good.

I'm going to see it its the pads rattling loose up against the disc first. They have plenty of wear left. Could be the piston seized in the calliper and pads is flapping around in there. If that's all good. Then I'll get a new set of bearings and seals, pull the axles out, ( by hand I think, that's what the soft hammer question was all about ), if I can.

Do they indeed pull out by hand?

Then get a Mechanical place to press them off and press the new ones in and hope they don't get it wrong broken or destroy the bearing surface.

Sound like a plan? Or have I missed a crucial glaring detail?

Thanks for the input.

Yeah, if it's a GQ you're looking at taking it somewhere to pull the bearings out. Also you need to undo the bearing nut before that. That's also a back breaker unless you got the specific tool or fabricate a one yourself. You can hit the nut with a drift, but be careful not to damage the nut too much. The nut has some 350Nm torque on the bearing. So, it's not easy to undo.

There's a thread here somewhere a bush mechanic doing all these stuff in the backyard without any press at all. But a lengthy job that way.
I can't find that thread, may be somebody can post a link here to that thread.