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rissile86
9th November 2015, 07:07 PM
I'm having troubles with my newly bought 03 patrol.

Runs a bit rough on startup for about 30 seconds, which i have ignored, but first time today up some fairly steep hills, and i litereally couldnt get up them, i had to go in 4wd low range 1st gear to get up. This is obviously not normal. Tital loss of power.

Any suggestions on what can be wrong?

Any good mechanics north if Brisbane i can take it too ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks,
Rhys

threedogs
9th November 2015, 07:10 PM
Hi mate can you pop over to the intro's please,
just something the forum asks of us all polite and all
No harm done, someone will sort you out shortly

rissile86
9th November 2015, 07:19 PM
Hi mate can you pop over to the intro's please,
just something the forum asks of us all polite and all
No harm done, someone will sort you out shortly
No worries , all done :)

threedogs
9th November 2015, 07:24 PM
Good stuff what mods have you had done , exhaust???
Is your intercooler oily????
First thing I would do is dis connect the battery
Then remove the MAF sensor and clean it with some proper Maf cleaning spray
Dis connecting the battery will re set the ECU.
Hopefully this will sort most of your problems, well hopefully lol
any warranty???

the evil twin
9th November 2015, 07:27 PM
Hmmmm... not good.

Rough idle on start when there is no boost and then no guts on boost.
Def time for a leak down test

Who did you buy it from?
If it is under any sort of warranty get it straight back to them...

rissile86
9th November 2015, 07:30 PM
I got it privately and didnt really check it as good as i should of. I took the intercooler cover off and looks there is traces of oil down one side. Should i upload a photo ? Its got a 3 inch exhaust and the roo systems chip .

threedogs
9th November 2015, 07:35 PM
Oil usually indicates a leaky IC dont worry they all leak and will need a tigged replacement IC.
You'll also need to control your boost, [READ NADS] if your plans are to use it as a tourer
I would be fitting a boost and egt gauge along with a catch can and a Dawes valve/needle valve.
Give Mudski a PM he'll be able to sort you out

rissile86
9th November 2015, 07:41 PM
Oil usually indicates a leaky IC dont worry they all leak and will need a tigged replacement IC.
You'll also need to control your boost, [READ NADS] if your plans are to use it as a tourer
I would be fitting a boost and egt gauge along with a catch can and a Dawes valve/needle valve.
Give Mudski a PM he'll be able to sort you out

so IC meaning intercooler right ? Sorry i'm a total newby . If so would this be the major problem you think ?

threedogs
9th November 2015, 07:44 PM
Yes IC is intercooler if its leaking it will not be holding boost imo

rissile86
9th November 2015, 07:48 PM
Yes IC is intercooler if its leaking it will not be holding boost imo

Thanks, any chance you can post me a link to get a replacement one ?

Nightjar
9th November 2015, 07:54 PM
What model do you have? 4.2 or 3.0L?

rissile86
9th November 2015, 07:57 PM
What model do you have? 4.2 or 3.0L?

3.0l di mate

threedogs
9th November 2015, 07:59 PM
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FOR-NISSAN-TOP-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-PATROL-GU-3-0TDI-ZD30-GU30DI-T-Turbo-Diesel-/201449947891?hash=item2ee75a42f3:g:kDgAAOSw5VFWILd r

Have a search on Ebay you may even find a change over IC.
No Idea on quality of this link so look around eh.
Thats about the going price too

the evil twin
9th November 2015, 08:17 PM
May I humbly suggest you find out what is wrong before you go too much further...

Leaky 'Cooler etc will mean poor boost... totally agree with that but it won't cause some of your symptoms.
It also won't cause a huge loss in power unless the leaks are pretty damn big
Could be injectors, could be lots of things but a Chipped, Mod'd Di should still have a reasonable amount of grunt

I'd get a professional or someone who really knows the ZD30 to have a good look before I started replaing Coolers and doing NADS

Just my opinion and agree with the other posts if you have a healthy engine to start with...

The steep hills you struggled on... what other trucks were out there and what gears etc were they using?
How many K's on the vehicle?
Is it blowing much smoke esp under full welly?

rissile86
9th November 2015, 08:48 PM
May I humbly suggest you find out what is wrong before you go too much further...

Leaky 'Cooler etc will mean poor boost... totally agree with that but it won't cause some of your symptoms.
It also won't cause a huge loss in power unless the leaks are pretty damn big
Could be injectors, could be lots of things but a Chipped, Mod'd Di should still have a reasonable amount of grunt

I'd get a professional or someone who really knows the ZD30 to have a good look before I started replaing Coolers and doing NADS

Just my opinion and agree with the other posts if you have a healthy engine to start with...

The steep hills you struggled on... what other trucks were out there and what gears etc were they using?
How many K's on the vehicle?
Is it blowing much smoke esp under full welly?

No other trucks on the road, it was just a standard road. Didn't notice any smoke, there is none startup either. I plan on getting it looked at first obviously , does anyone know of any good mechanics north of brissy with knowlege of zd30 ?

the evil twin
9th November 2015, 09:05 PM
Crap boost will normally blow a fair bit of soot etc from overfuelling esp if an engine is chipped

I noticed in your intro you plan on doing some serious touring.
An ECU software app or an EGT and Boost gauge will be very handy.

Anyhow, I'll butt out and let the Qld'rs steer you towards a mech or two

rissile86
10th November 2015, 09:12 AM
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4bye4
10th November 2015, 12:25 PM
Re pics above - needs replaceing, preferably with a fully welded one. Probably not your performance problem though. Don't know where the best buy would be in Qld though. You can always go a replacement spec or use it as an excuse to upgrade to a higher spec unit. Depends on your pocket and future modification plans I guess.

rissile86
10th November 2015, 12:36 PM
Thanks 4bye4, from research i kind of figured that the intercooler is not the main problem, something has caused it too leak oil, like over boosting or something? Im going to give the maf sensor a clean tonight and disconnect the battery to see if that makes a difference at all. Do you think the roo systems chip could be causing any problems ?

rissile86
10th November 2015, 12:37 PM
But i really would like to take it to someone in Brisbane with knowlege of these cars, i dont want to take it to just any mechanic

Rock Trol
10th November 2015, 12:44 PM
Are you sure it is getting boost? The vnt turbos are controlled by a vacuum line on these things and if it splits the turbo wont give you the proper boost. Its 4mm vacuum hose. Trace it back from the turbo and check to see if its in good condition.

rissile86
10th November 2015, 01:30 PM
Are you sure it is getting boost? The vnt turbos are controlled by a vacuum line on these things and if it splits the turbo wont give you the proper boost. Its 4mm vacuum hose. Trace it back from the turbo and check to see if its in good condition.


Thanks ill take a look, but doesnt feel like i am getting any boost

the evil twin
10th November 2015, 02:01 PM
Thanks 4bye4, from research i kind of figured that the intercooler is not the main problem, something has caused it too leak oil, like over boosting or something? Im going to give the maf sensor a clean tonight and disconnect the battery to see if that makes a difference at all. Do you think the roo systems chip could be causing any problems ?

All the factory coolers leak and it is unrelated to chronic overboosting.
They leak because the inlet and outlet plenums are crimped not welded to the core.
Yours is pretty bad but seen worse.
That doesn't mean you haven't got other leaks/issues compounding the problem

Def give the MAF a clean and disconnecting the battery will cause the ECU to relearn some parameters so good idea as well.

Yes the Chip could be a dud but 99% of the time they will default to zero IE no added fuel or injection timing shifts.
Dunno about the Roo ones tho, never had one to play with...

...and from the manual
NOTE: As part of a “Lack of Power” trouble diagnosis, ALWAYS ensure that the vacuum pump is functioning OK. If the vacuum pump is worn & it is not providing sufficient vacuum, the turbo will not operate properly. As a result the engine will lack power due to lack of Turbo Boost.

rissile86
10th November 2015, 08:05 PM
I gave the maf a clean tonight, didn't seem dirty, disconnected battery too. Did make a huge difference, got up the hills fine tonight, steep inclines did it in 3rd .so much happier. I'll still take the car to the mechanic, and give it a better test run in the heat. Also will be replaceing intercooler too.

the evil twin
10th November 2015, 08:22 PM
Great result dude...

rissile86
10th November 2015, 08:41 PM
Great result dude...

I'm still not 100% convinced but definately gives me some confidence now. Would a dirty or faulty maf cause loss of power and bad startup? Even starts up perfect now which is great.

mudski
10th November 2015, 08:53 PM
I'm still not 100% convinced but definately gives me some confidence now. Would a dirty or faulty maf cause loss of power and bad startup? Even starts up perfect now which is great.
Yes. Definitely a dirty maf will give performance issues. Its always good to keep one spare in the car too. If your maf totally dies on you and your out in the middle of chit creek. You'll be up oneo of those creeks in a barbed wire canoe, and no paddle.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

the evil twin
10th November 2015, 09:02 PM
What mudski said ^^^^ Get the 'cooler sorted and it will go even better

Not sure where you intend touring but if it is well 'out there' then a MAF, a spare Air Filter, a note and jumper wire on which pins to jump to get the Sub Tank pump running, a couple of feet of fencing wire, a Serpy Belt Tensioner Bearing and a set of Torx sockets (are the Di's Torx?) is amongst the first things you need to throw in the Emergency Spares box.

rissile86
10th November 2015, 10:08 PM
What mudski said ^^^^ Get the 'cooler sorted and it will go even better

Not sure where you intend touring but if it is well 'out there' then a MAF, a spare Air Filter, a note and jumper wire on which pins to jump to get the Sub Tank pump running, a couple of feet of fencing wire, a Serpy Belt Tensioner Bearing and a set of Torx sockets (are the Di's Torx?) is amongst the first things you need to throw in the Emergency Spares box.

Ok thanks guys, just touring from Hervey Bay to great ocean road for now with some 4wd tracks in between for a few weeks.

happygu
10th November 2015, 11:03 PM
I gave the maf a clean tonight, didn't seem dirty, disconnected battery too. Did make a huge difference, got up the hills fine tonight, steep inclines did it in 3rd .so much happier. I'll still take the car to the mechanic, and give it a better test run in the heat. Also will be replaceing intercooler too.

Sounds like LimpMode to me .. If you disconnect the battery or turn it off and turn it back on, and it comes good, that is a sign it has most likely gone into Limp, but has then reset after you have intervened.

LimpMode should also give you a Fault Code to read, and your mechanic should be able to get this code out of the computer to get an idea of what is happening.

Amongst all the things to look for, definitely check for Boost issues, as these can cause either over or underboosting. Over will go into Limp ( with no power in limp ), and under will give you no power, and high EGT's

Wizard52
11th November 2015, 02:03 PM
As you have a Roo Systems chip, I would go back to Glenn Hadden at Banyo now I think.
He did my exhaust and dyno tune about 6 years ago when at Sandgate and no problems.

threedogs
11th November 2015, 02:47 PM
When you get time take it and get it dynoed, you wont think its the same Patrol