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lovejones
31st October 2015, 12:45 AM
ok ill keep this a brief as i can

whilst out traveling the engine light came on. thought nothing of it tbh as it used to flicker on ruff terrain.

anyway, around that time i started to lose power, id be driving say 100kph and then it would slow down to about 80kph, it felt like the turbo wasn't working, i rev two or 3 times and then would kick back in. i thought that maybe the i/c had cracked or similar (it does have some oil around two corners, and i noticed some oil leakage down the left side. not much) i took the i/c off gave it a clean and then see how it went, it run fine for a fair few k's then the same issue, this was a reoccurring event. i then disconnected the battery to see if this would clear the engine light, it did, and for about 300k was fine, then when i hit some corrugated road it came on. i did the same, was fine again, until i did a u turn. so as you can guess, there is no factor that is the same for the engine light to come on, nor distance, i have driven a couple ks and it comes on, i have also driven 500ks before it came on and id lose power. the turbo played up a bit then was fine for a week or so, and was until the car decided to lose all the instrument panel ( rev counter, speed counter, fuel gauge, sub tank gauge etc) then the air bag light came on flashing and the sub tank light as well as the engine light. it got me home whilst i held the secondary battery button in. so battery dead, check the nator, it appears its given up. no issue, ill get another. so, i have just replaced the nator and checked and its running at 14.63, so that solved that issue.

however, i still have that bloody engine light on. i am wondering, do i need to clear the memory, if the engine light came on due to the nator giving up (though doesn't explain power loss), now the new one is in, would the engine light go out or does it need to be cleared?

cheers for your help.
the car is the gu grenade 230000ks

the evil twin
31st October 2015, 03:00 AM
Disconnect the Battery for a half hour or so.

If the MIL comes back on again you will prob need to get the codes to see what is causing it.
If it doesn't come back on then call that a win

Occasional Loss of power sounds like limp mode which is usually boost related.

Warning Lights etc are classic example of a screwed Alternator (which you have fixed)

threedogs
31st October 2015, 06:15 AM
Chances are the IC is leaking and not helping your cause.
fix the engine light and worry about the IC later.
Either an aftermarket tigged one or a tigged change over
should sort your boost problems out.
If you havent any gauges fitted I highly recommend you
fit a boost and EGT gauge to monitor whats going on under the bonnet.
Might want to re'do a few of the earth straps too.