Problem losing power - is this my third MAF in under 1 year

[kaiwuthen]

Hi All,

I know there are a number of threads already on this topic... pardon me for starting another one.

I bought my Nissan Patrol 2002 GU 3.0Lit Diesel with a ZD30 engine in Jan 2015 at ~260000km
after a few weeks it lost a lot of its power and started to 'screetch'. since I wanted it to get a proper full service anyways, I asked the question which was a good garage in Perth and was advised to go to Robson's brothers.

I took the car there and did the large service. they found that the turbo had a lead at the EGR, the air flow sensor was not working and $3500 dollars later I felt that I had a 'near new' patrol. along the way they also installed a DAWES valve to be guarded against the 'hand granade' going off

2 months later the power was gone again and I took it back. it turned out that the said the air flow sensor was gone again and I got another new one under warranty / reduced cost

now, 5 months later we have lost power AGAIN. feels like exactly the same issue as before

having read up on it and it seems that it might be worth simply cleaning the MAF with anything from special "Mass Air Flow Cleaner" to regular break cleaner, over buying a new sensor only on ebay for less than $30 to bringing it back to Robson Bros and possibly spending in excess of another grand or two...

do you recon I am risking anything by starting with a clean with break cleaner (which I have in my shed) and if that does not work getting a $30 sensor off Ebay, or do I risk doing serious damage...

Thanks for your feedback

[boots]

Remove the maf and clean with maf sensor cleaner. Could be time to fit a catch can . How many Kays on it now since purchase.

[4bye4]

I wouldn't use anything but MAF cleaner on the MAF. Can you swap it out with someone before buying a new one? I would try a clean with the proper MAF cleaner. Don't forget to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU.

[the evil twin]

There is a thread on here detailing how to test the MAF sensor, pretty straight forward.

If you want to clean it, which is an excellent idea if it hasn't been done for a while, then any name brand electronic cleaner is fine.
CRC brand is a good one for example.
AS prev posts advise, don't forget to reset the ECU so it re-learns the MAF curves

Don't, fall for the trap of cleaning it too often, once every 20,000 K's or so is oodles unless you have induction filter issues or some other contamination.

[4bye4]

I found the hardest part was moving the aircon gas pipe so I could get at the bloody thing.

[the evil twin]

I found the hardest part was moving the aircon gas pipe so I could get at the bloody thing.

Hehehehe... yep, not ideal is it.

[Hodge]

I found the hardest part was moving the aircon gas pipe so I could get at the bloody thing.

I used to pop the lid at the air filter, and the whole thing sort of lifts, due to to the bit of flex in the pipe below the air con line. Gives much better access to the MAF assembly.

[my third 256]

also check under the air filter lid and see if the o ring is perished which seales the unit and stops dirt and dust from getting in
also the catch can is a very good mod because it stopes the fumes blowing back up the pipe to get onto the maf sensor

[kaiwuthen]

Hi guys,

thanks for the responses.
showing what a newby I am: how can I tell what GU Nr my Patrol is? I was told it is a GU4, however: I just took the MAF sensor out of the car and compare it against ones on ebay. the ones that look identical (mine has 5 pins) say that they are for GUI - III, so not the GU4...

It is a 2002 Patrol with the 3lit Diesel. on the rego it sais engine Nr ZD30090950 - not sure if that helps

Thanks for your help already

[kaiwuthen]

another question: I read up on the 'which way up on the air filter' thread. however they talk about the 'foam side' and the 'rubber side'. mine looks different. one side is a square black firmish rubber seal going round the filter, 10x10mm in cross section. the other side is a flatish rubber seal that has several rings/lips going from inside to outside (2 small ones, then one bigger one then another even bigger one from inside to out), total hight 6mm, total width 18mm

any advice which way up. for now I am going square 10x10mm side up...
thanks again

[the evil twin]

If it is an MY02 it will be a GU3 not a GU4.
The GU3 ran from Oct 01 to Oct 04 so assuming the original engine etc then that would explain the comparison

[4bye4]

I think a 2002 is a GU3 but not sure. It has been posted on here a few times though and I'm sure someone will post it again soon. Mine is a GU4 2005 model.

[4bye4]

If it is an MY02 it will be a GU3 not a GU4.
The GU3 ran from Oct 01 to Oct 04 so assuming the original engine etc then that would explain the comparison

There you go. ET types faster than me.

[LaughingBeagles]

There is a thread on here detailing how to test the MAF sensor, pretty straight forward.

If you want to clean it, which is an excellent idea if it hasn't been done for a while, then any name brand electronic cleaner is fine.
CRC brand is a good one for example.
AS prev posts advise, don't forget to reset the ECU so it re-learns the MAF curves

Don't, fall for the trap of cleaning it too often, once every 20,000 K's or so is oodles unless you have induction filter issues or some other contamination.

Dumb question ET, but I take it that disconnecting the battery will do the reset of the ECU? If so, is there a timeframe for disconnecting?

[threedogs]

Some say 20 minutes others 1 hr

[LaughingBeagles]

Thanks mate.

[the evil twin]

Wot TD said ^^^^

Resetting the Sub Tank Computer can be done in a minute or so (I pull the fuses not disconnect the battery) but to make sure with the ECU I would do the "at least 20 minutes" thing.

On the couple of occasions I cleaned the MAF when I had my CRD I would disconnect the battery at the start of tinkering and do the oils, air filter, MAF, all other odd jobs I had waiting to go on and then hook back up so that would be up too several hours sometimes.

[kaiwuthen]

thanks all for your feedback. just got the CRC MAF cleaner, disconnecting Battery for 40minutes, and it did not do the job :(

now I am considering buying a new MAF on ebay, they start at $34 rather than booking it straight in to Robson Bros and paying who knows how much...

question: all MAF that I can see people refer to when they deal with the 22680AD21A is C36-700 K01, however the one I got fitted last time is C36-700 A02.

did I get the wrong MAF fitted? or are they same-same...

Thanks already again!