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Wildthing_507
9th October 2015, 10:14 AM
Hi,

I'm new here and may be missing something but I have had an engine light come on and stay on and all of the posts I've found so far relating to this say to "bridge terminals 1 and 8". Mine doesn't have terminals in the same locations as those?

As per attached photo

Top row
16,-,14,13,12,-,-,9
8,7,6,5,4,-,-,-
Bottom row

I'm sure it's just a later model thing but can anyone tell me what to bridge to check and clear codes?

Any advice would be much appreciated

jack180
9th October 2015, 09:52 PM
i would suggest you need to have the codes read to find out why the light is coming on.
Im not sure i would risk and ECU by bridging pins

If you have a iphone - buy a ELM WIFI OBD2 sender on ebay for about $20 - then buy the OBD2 iphone app, and you can read the codes and clear them properly
Android phone the same, but buy the bluetooth adaptor

Or, you can go to Supercheap,a nd for $14 they will plug in their tool, read the codes, give you the report and clear them.

I'm sure some others may say you can bridge some of those pins, but really do you want to risk damaging your ECU for $14 at supercheap?

jack180
9th October 2015, 09:57 PM
Check out - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/vehicle-diagnostics/home.aspx

or if you want to buy the setup for a iphone check this out (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ELM327-OBD2-OBDII-WiFi-Car-Diagnostic-Wireless-Scanner-Tool-iOS-iPad-iPhone-iPod-/252033291015?hash=item3aae5ad307)

or this for Android (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-Car-V1-5-ELM327-OBD2-ODBII-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Scanner-Tool-TORQUE-ANDROID-/190848767924?hash=item2c6f7917b4)

I use the Dashcmd app on iphone
But i hear the Torque Pro app is good too - on both android and iphone

Wildthing_507
10th October 2015, 09:10 AM
Thanks greatly. I knew I could get that done but I thought it was in the hundreds. You're right, for $14 I'm not going to risk it.

Wildthing_507
12th October 2015, 01:27 PM
I went to supercheap and no fault code showed up. I've ordered the bluetooth reader from ebay, as it usually takes a week for delivery to Darwin, I guess its a job for Nissan at this stage . Bugger!

I don't want to drive around too much with the engine light on.

abeeke
12th October 2015, 10:35 PM
don't be surprised, if a $14 unit doesn't show up the faults either. I have a $3,000 snap on machine, and often it won't show up fault codes my mates $10,000 one does.

don't get me wrong cheap readers are a great tool for non-mechanics, and even as a mechanic it took me ages to fork out the $3,000. but a $14 tool is very limited in what it can do and see.

I have a cheap blue tooth one as well, and thought I would use it quite a bit due to being super easy, especially compared to setting up my Snap-On unit, but to be honest it is so limited I haven't bothered.

hopefully in years to come the price of quality diagnostic gear comes down in price!!

my third 256
13th October 2015, 05:28 AM
woudnt the patrol still be under warranty being 2014

Wildthing_507
14th October 2015, 12:48 PM
Yeah but because I've blocked the egr valve I wanted to find out if it was something simple before I uninstall the blanking plate to take it to Nissan. The Blocked EGR valve made too much difference in power and economy to write it off and remove the plate without trying everything else first.

Logic says it would be to do with the egr but it's been blocked for weeks with no dramas and by the comments on the forums it seems that the engine goes into limp mode if there have been any problems, albeit rare, with the egr blocking. I don't want to uninstall it and find out it was a dodgy sensor somewhere completely unrelated or something like that.

Removing the plate will be the next step and it will need to be soon though.

Wildthing_507
14th October 2015, 03:05 PM
don't be surprised, if a $14 unit doesn't show up the faults either. I have a $3,000 snap on machine, and often it won't show up fault codes my mates $10,000 one does.

don't get me wrong cheap readers are a great tool for non-mechanics, and even as a mechanic it took me ages to fork out the $3,000. but a $14 tool is very limited in what it can do and see.

I have a cheap blue tooth one as well, and thought I would use it quite a bit due to being super easy, especially compared to setting up my Snap-On unit, but to be honest it is so limited I haven't bothered.

hopefully in years to come the price of quality diagnostic gear comes down in price!!

I wouldn't buy the $14 unit if it just did the fault codes. After reviewing it, it has some other cool stuff that will hopefully be useful. If not, then $14 and $5 for the app down the drain. No big deal.

I was just hoping to get a diagnostic with the egr plate in place out of curiosity as much as anything. Looks like I'll be taking it out and booking the car in to Nissan. I know of people who have left the plate in and got warranty work done but I wouldn't risk it. I will leave it in for services but if they find a fault with anything even vaguely related to the egr they will blame the plate whether it's responsible or not.

Again, it's too awesome to drive with the plate in, more torque, smoother running with less surging, less turbo lag especially of the mark, economy. So If the plate is the culprit then so be it, it has to go, but only once I'm certain.

threedogs
14th October 2015, 03:08 PM
If you havent drilled a 10mm hole in your EGR plate
the ECU will keep throwing up the Check engine light

Just something the CRD's do

Wildthing_507
14th October 2015, 03:53 PM
Thanks Threedogs, had a sneaking suspicion about that. I've heard of others doing it on different makes but didn't realize the Nissan might need it.

Wildthing_507
14th October 2015, 03:53 PM
Also, I wasn't sure what size hole. Now I know.

threedogs
14th October 2015, 04:02 PM
Pretty sure most drill a 6mm to 10mm hole ,to send a maessage to the ecu the egr is still working
Have a search Im sure theres plenty written on it. Start with a 6mm hole and see how you go
Could I also suggest you buy a Scan gauge for your patrol.
Great piece of kit, a sort of must have, clear faults out the
middle of no-where if required

Wildthing_507
14th October 2015, 04:19 PM
Scandisk, one of the many things on the list. Probably the next thing.

thefattymatty
15th October 2015, 06:28 PM
Hey wild thing, I am going to chuck the EGR blanking plate in my 2014 on Saturday, how many Kays have you got on yours I just ticked over 30,000, and decided to block it (i was a bit worried about warranty) i got a free EDS with a subscription to 4wd Action so I thought stuff it if I have drama's I can just remove it ($7 on ebay) are you running catch can needle valve and all that nonsense or just the blanking plate?

Wildthing_507
16th October 2015, 08:08 AM
Hi Fatty Man, 35,000. You won't believe the difference the egr plate makes. I had a chip which made a big difference but I took it out when the dash light came on. Other than that, nothing else yet. Catch can next though. Dawes valve I guess eventually but not a priority yet.
I'm sure the light is because of the plate (EGR not registering on the sensor) but for you, the EDS should clear it. If the little bluetooth dongle and Torque pro app won't clear mine I'll take the plate out to get it cleared and put a small hole in it and put it back in afterwards. It makes too big a difference to leave it out.
As for warranty, the question is whether the crap building up in the intake manifold is something to be ignored? As for me, it would drive me insane knowing that there is the extra power and cleaner running available and not take advantage of it so I'll risk it. There are mixed reports from people who have had warranty done on other things and left the plate in with Nissan knowing it's there. Someone has said that Nissan can check to see what errors have come up and been cleared which put me off clearing it myself but as someone else said the chances of them looking are minimal to say the least. They'd have to be a pack of you-know-whats to not give you warranty on something unrelated to the egr fault code.

Also, let's face it,
1. you can always take it out. It's a bit of a bitch the first time you put it in but like everything, it would only take half the time from then on.
2. These engines are becoming very reliable and the chances of anything major needing warranty are pretty slim.

I'll run the gauntlet on warranty for the extra benefits.

jack180
16th October 2015, 10:07 PM
well ive got a EGR solid plate - not hole it in - when i scan with my wifi and iphone using tourqe its got a fault code of low EGR flow, but no dash light - never had one yet. Im in a CRD but out of warranty so dont care now. I personally dont see the point of blocking the EGR if your going to put a hole in it. A hole lets the crap through.

Wildthing_507
17th October 2015, 01:03 AM
well ive got a EGR solid plate - not hole it in - when i scan with my wifi and iphone using tourqe its got a fault code of low EGR flow, but no dash light - never had one yet. Im in a CRD but out of warranty so dont care now. I personally dont see the point of blocking the EGR if your going to put a hole in it. A hole lets the crap through.

That's true but if a small hole keeps the light off it's still gotta be better than the Ø30 odd hole that's there without it. Just letting enough through to keep the sensor happy instead of flooding the whole intake with the crap. I'd rather not have the hole so if torque pro clears the code and it's not coming up too often then I'll leave it out.
If I do put a hole, I've read a post where the guy got away with just a Ø3 hole so that's where i'd start.

Hodge
17th October 2015, 06:27 AM
I personally dont see the point of blocking the EGR if your going to put a hole in it. A hole lets the crap through.

+1

The sensor doesn't always trigger the engine light. In owning my 3L patrol, a 3 year span, I have had the light come on twice... Easily reset-able.
And somebody here had a photo up once of a blank with a hole, and the hole had all the soot crusted up around it, pretty much blocking it anyway.
When the engine light comes on, it is only a warning letting you know something is up. It does not alter the performance in any way, like putting it into limp mode for example. So if you have a scangauge or Torque up (as mentioned above), i would not be putting a hole in it. It defeats the purpose I think.

Wildthing_507
17th October 2015, 11:14 AM
Thanks Hodge.

Twice in three years I could certainly live with especially if I can reset it myself.

thefattymatty
17th October 2015, 02:28 PM
unfortunately the plate did not arrive in the mail, I have to turn the beer i was going to drink while doing the EGR into beers to drink while watching the motoGP, really looking forward to seeing what it will do to the economy of the car.

Hodge
17th October 2015, 03:19 PM
unfortunately the plate did not arrive in the mail, I have to turn the beer i was going to drink while doing the EGR into beers to drink while watching the motoGP, really looking forward to seeing what it will do to the economy of the car.

Even if it doesn't feel like it's in there, you can rest assured it doesn't have sewage re-plumbed back into the clean intake.

foggs
18th October 2015, 05:55 PM
A few days ago I also blocked off the EGR (no hole) on my 2012 CRD 3.0 and was waiting for the dash light to come up but never did.
I loaded Torque Pro $10 from Android store on my car deck along with OBD II bluetooth dongle (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2015-Mini-Auto-Car-V1-5-ELM327-OBD2-ODBII-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Scanner-Tool-ANDROID/161202189163?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3D62d01ddab51a4895bb4 dcbe069b774a1%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26 mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D190848767924&tfrom=190848767924&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal) from ebay for $15 and was able to clear the codes. See below.

62036

62037

foggs
18th October 2015, 06:14 PM
.... The Blocked EGR valve made too much difference in power and economy to write it off and remove the plate without trying everything else first.

.

Wildthing, I wanted to ask exactly what kind of difference has it made on fuel economy?
The whole reason I started my mods is because mine is using 18-20 L/100km. I've now installed a snorkel as well and just filled the tank.
I also added the Chemtech fuel additive/injector cleaner and hoping an praying that it'll reduce it to at least 16 L/100km.

I'm also told that a 3' exhaust will significantly reduce fuel consumption, however I can't afford this right now.
I'm also curious if anyone knows any after market 2.75 or 3' exhausts you can purchase with view of installing it yourself.

62039

Hodge
18th October 2015, 06:17 PM
I'm also curious if anyone knows any after market 2.75 or 3' exhausts you can purchase with view of installing it yourself.



There are a few around built for a DIY job. Beaudesert exhausts is one of them. Albeit they are on the dearer side of things.
I've so far installed 3 of their exhausts my self, and arrived with everything you need and lined up perfectly.

foggs
18th October 2015, 06:37 PM
Thanks Hodge.
From what I gather I'll also need a Dawes needle valve prior to installing the exhaust? Was hoping to get away with not installing it or an EGT gauge, but may have to bite the bullet.

Hodge
18th October 2015, 06:40 PM
Thanks Hodge.
From what I gather I'll also need a Dawes needle valve prior to installing the exhaust? Was hoping to get away with not installing it or an EGT gauge, but may have to bite the bullet.

Some CRD's overboost when exhaust is fitted. This in turn may result in a limp mode. So, this is why sometimes dawes/needle is needed to control that adverse effect of an exhaust.

Hodge
18th October 2015, 06:40 PM
Unrelated question, what unit running Android is that ? What brand etc ?

foggs
18th October 2015, 06:46 PM
Unrelated question, what unit running Android is that ? What brand etc ?

I bought a Newsmy NU3001 (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Newsmy-Android-4-4-Quad-Core-Car-DVD-7-inch-for-universal-Android-only-Without-DVD/32301663432.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.1.117kES&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_9,searchweb201527_1_71_ 72_73_74_75,searchweb201560_4) for $550AUS, delivered via DHL within 5 days. It's an awesome unit apart from one flaw, it doesn't have a working equalizer... ie trebble, bass, mid controls, still sounds great though even without these controls. Other than that, it's perfect, also comes with Nissan wiring plugs, so no cutting cables.

Also has a great support forum here (http://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/android-head-units/4-4-2-kitkat-head-unit-newsmy-carpad-t2865525)

Hodge
18th October 2015, 07:23 PM
Thanks fill look into it.

Wildthing_507
19th October 2015, 04:57 PM
Hi Foggs,
I was hoping to improve my economy from 12.5 L/100 around town to 11 or so. 18-20 is over the top. I got 15 towing a camper trailer, 4 kids and my girlfriend in the car and a bit of gear in the roof rack from Darwin to El Questro and back. That was before the egr mod.

It's only been in for a few weeks and part of the first tank was without it but still got around 12 with the chip still in. Then the light came on in the middle of the next tank and when I disconnected the battery to clear the dash light I lost the trip meter. I have a full tank now and I'll let you know. I also took the chip out when the light came on. The chip gave it heaps of down low grunt and smoother driving but actually took the fuel economy up to 13+. I'll put it in after the light is cleared to try it again but to be honest, it seemed to make a big difference when I put it in before the egr plate but having taken it out, it doesn't seem much different.

Exhaust is definitely on the list but like you, money is stopping me at the moment. I should have done that before the chip but it would have driven me insane wondering about the chip.

Wildthing_507
19th October 2015, 05:00 PM
Thanks Foggs for posting the info about the Torque pro and dongle. I'm still waiting for mine but at least it's looking hopeful of clearing the dash light and future codes.

Also, any feedback on anyone else' economy with or without mods would be great to gauge where I'm at.

foggs
19th October 2015, 05:55 PM
..hoping to improve my economy from 12.5 L/100 around town to 11 or so.

The chip gave it heaps of down low grunt and smoother driving but actually took the fuel economy up to 13+....

12.5, wow I'd be stoked with that. Funny thing is I took it to an independent 4x4 mechanic and they couldn't find any faults with ecomony.. "how high is too high?" they said to me.. Also took it to Nissan and they checked everything out and still couldn't find any issues. Seriously not happy about that, but I'll persist.

I'm not that interested in performance as for me it seems to have heaps of power and pickup, just hope to get to the bottom of this fuel economy. I've been following a couple of other posts with interest this one (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?30422-2009-CRD-Fuel-Consumption/page2) and also another from another forum. Not sure if I'm allowed to post the link here from the other forum but in a nutshell, they found the type of tyre they're running (265/70/16) seems best, installing a snorkel, partially blocking the EGR, Installing a fan on intercooler for city driving, reducing radiant heat, running fuel from the majors rather than independants seems to have made an impact on fuel economy.

I just double checked my Android app on the car deck as I realised I had cleared the codes with another app called DashCommand. I find DashCommand has a nicer interface, however does not seem to have all the PID's that Torque has. DashCommand is also around $10 from Play Store. I also just loaded Torque again and re-scanned for the faults. It came up with fault code again, not sure whether it was stored from previous scan or not, but I was still able to clear it through Torque too.

Wildthing_507
19th October 2015, 07:30 PM
Bummer about the fuel economy but I'm glad to hear the apps are working for you. Can't wait to get mine.

thefattymatty
23rd October 2015, 05:40 PM
i got my EGR block yesterday and it's going in tomorrow, when driving to canberra(from melbourne) my fuel economy was roughly 15l/100 sitting on 110(cruise control of course) up the hume but on the return drive i was getting 13l/100 sitting on 100 i have a roof top tent and it creates a lot of drag so the fuel economy is not that great, when i first brought the car it was about 16l/100 without the tent but it's run in now so economy is better.62225

thefattymatty
24th October 2015, 04:18 PM
The EGR block went in this arvo(no hole) and I took it for a 20 kay drive no fault light as yet:) there was a tiny bit of oil in the intercooler inlet and outlet but nothing alarming I am doing a drive to the big dessert NP next weekend and doing border track so I will see if the economy improves on the drive there.

foggs
24th October 2015, 07:35 PM
Since blocking the EGR and installing a snorkel, it seems my fuel economy has not improved at all for city driving. Prior to the mods, I used to get 500km out of the main tank straight after the fuel light came on (which is roughly 80L) equating to 16L/100km.

After the mods I'm almost half way through the main tank and have done almost 250km.. which is once again tracking for 500km/80L or 16L/100km..... arghhhhhh :furious:

jack180
28th October 2015, 10:47 PM
Since blocking the EGR and installing a snorkel, it seems my fuel economy has not improved at all for city driving. Prior to the mods, I used to get 500km out of the main tank straight after the fuel light came on (which is roughly 80L) equating to 16L/100km.

After the mods I'm almost half way through the main tank and have done almost 250km.. which is once again tracking for 500km/80L or 16L/100km..... arghhhhhh :furious:

Interesting. I was getting about 16l/100 before i blocked the egr and fitted all the nads - no change. Then i fitted a new higher flow intercooler (just a cheap one from ebay) and a fan under the intercooler, and noticed a slight improvement.

But then i bought some MAF cleaner and gave my air flow sensor a really good clean - was always a bit worried to do this in case i stuffed it up.

Now im getting 13l/100. I do a mix of country and city stuff. If im doing just a long country run it drops to 11l/100

Wildthing_507
11th November 2015, 03:45 PM
Finally got the obdII reader and app. Light cleared by itself prior to that but when it came on again I cleared it with the torque pro app. Fuel economy seemed great after first doing the egr block but now that I've done accurate consumption figures it still sits around 12.5l/100k's.

The power's great but I expected to see some improvement in economy with the engine running so much more cleanly.

I put the chip back in also and contrary to all the claims from the supplier, the economy is worse. It's a little more powerful all be it subtle. It's definitely nicer to drive with the chip but I'm disappointed that the economy didn't improve. I know that I'm pumping more diesel in to achieve the extra power but what they said made sense also, that now the extra power was there that I wouldn't have to change down gears as much and that would increase the economy. They were right about the extra power down low and staying in a higher gear for longer but I was already 'driving miss Daisy' and so haven't gained, but lost about 0.5-1l/100k's.

threedogs
11th November 2015, 04:09 PM
FYI on the Hume going from Melb to the border Albury/wodonga its all up hill.
Going to the Murray my figures are always better coming home be it the Patrol
being a bit lighter

foggs
11th November 2015, 11:21 PM
Interesting. I was getting about 16l/100 before i blocked the egr and fitted all the nads - no change. Then i fitted a new higher flow intercooler (just a cheap one from ebay) and a fan under the intercooler, and noticed a slight improvement.

But then i bought some MAF cleaner and gave my air flow sensor a really good clean - was always a bit worried to do this in case i stuffed it up.

Now im getting 13l/100. I do a mix of country and city stuff. If im doing just a long country run it drops to 11l/100

hmm interesting... the first thing I did was clean the MAF sensor, and I got a tiny bit of very very fine red residue come out, but this made no difference to fuel economy. I then blocked the EGR, installed catch can and snorkel, no other NADS and noticed a slight improvement in power, but economy stayed the same.
I'd be interested in seeing which intercooler and fan you got from ebay as I'm willing to give that a go if it's reasonably priced. I know ultimately a 2.75" or 3" exhaust will make the most diff but I don't mind trying small things like this.


Finally got the obdII reader and app. Light cleared by itself prior to that but when it came on again I cleared it with the torque pro app. Fuel economy seemed great after first doing the egr block but now that I've done accurate consumption figures it still sits around 12.5l/100k's.

The power's great but I expected to see some improvement in economy with the engine running so much more cleanly.

I put the chip back in also and contrary to all the claims from the supplier, the economy is worse. It's a little more powerful all be it subtle. It's definitely nicer to drive with the chip but I'm disappointed that the economy didn't improve. I know that I'm pumping more diesel in to achieve the extra power but what they said made sense also, that now the extra power was there that I wouldn't have to change down gears as much and that would increase the economy. They were right about the extra power down low and staying in a higher gear for longer but I was already 'driving miss Daisy' and so haven't gained, but lost about 0.5-1l/100k's.

I just finished a full main tank of 80L (from full to light coming on) and I drove the first half as normal 250Km out of 40L (16L/100Km), however I thought I try driving around with Overdrive Off for the second half of the tank. Boy what a difference that made to power as well as increase in fuel usage. On takeoff the car responds immediately and jumps out.. it's impressive, but I only got 200km out of the next 40L (20L/100Km).

I'm going to keep trying things out and see what if anything improves.

MyGU8
8th January 2016, 11:32 AM
Mine is a 2012 CRD, which always 12.5l/100kms.
Funny thing is doesn't matter whether town running/highway ac on/off the fuel economy does not change.

Only difference is if I am not using cruise control then it will be around 12l/100kms.

5spd Manual though.