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View Full Version : Sold the Pajero and am picking this up . . .



ImRobboToo
27th September 2015, 08:25 PM
New here. But I just sold my 94 Pajero, and will going to pick this 3lt Turbo Diesel GU III up on Thursday.

First things will be a exhaust, 2" lift, winch, twin drawers and roof storage. I'll then look at getting a few things added to monitor the engine, as we all know the issues with them. If anyone has some straight out advice in that area, that would be great.

can't wait to get Nissan under foot :)

61630

Hodge
27th September 2015, 08:29 PM
Congrats mate. Looks like a good unit. White Patrols go further !

Dhuck
27th September 2015, 08:55 PM
God damn! Another ex paj owner. Glad you saw the right side of life.

4bye4
27th September 2015, 09:33 PM
Welcome to the real world mate.

ImRobboToo
28th September 2015, 01:42 PM
Thanks all. Although I still havnt got it, I really think this is a big step up. Tuff Trucks ;)

Rock Trol
28th September 2015, 01:58 PM
I'm another ex Pajero owner. I really liked my old NJ 2.8 td. Really low geared for the slow stuff. The GU is another step up in ability though. Things that where previously difficult will seem easy with the Patrol.

threedogs
28th September 2015, 02:08 PM
Id at least fit a boost gauge as you may find you go into limp[over boost mode] with a 3" exhaust
Plus you'll need a dual battery system as well, for the winch
Look forward to the way you tackle your mods.
Now go shake that money tree $$$$$$.

ImRobboToo
28th September 2015, 02:35 PM
I'm another ex Pajero owner. I really liked my old NJ 2.8 td. Really low geared for the slow stuff. The GU is another step up in ability though. Things that where previously difficult will seem easy with the Patrol.

I didn't do any off road with the Paj, and when I sold it yesterday, the English lads that bought it, said it was the cleanest one they had seen so far. A little rust around the bottom windscreen and that was it. They were well chuffed when I said $2k


Id at least fit a boost gauge as you may find you go into limp[over boost mode] with a 3" exhaust
Plus you'll need a dual battery system as well, for the winch
Look forward to the way you tackle your mods.
Now go shake that money tree $$$$$$.

Great info again threedogs. Will take it all in. 1st Turbo diesel so its all new learning to me.

Cheers

threedogs
28th September 2015, 03:27 PM
I knew jack about TD but remove the engine cover and see whats what, it not rocket science , but helps
if you know what your looking at.

ImRobboToo
29th September 2015, 10:36 AM
I knew jack about TD but remove the engine cover and see whats what, it not rocket science , but helps
if you know what your looking at.

Yea true. I know a little about Diesels, being a truckie in my past life, and in the Ary for near on 10yrs, and the Landrover 110 . . . I use to be a driving instructor, for the old Macks, Unimogs and 110's, and the Mack was the only Turbo diesel. That was 20 yrs ago. I have done he ultimate 4wding while I was stationed in Darwin, so that wont worry me. I have been bogged up to the gun rails in the Mack, and taken 2 days, 400 mtrs of tow rope, and 6:1 pulls to get her out . . . Look forward to the challenge with my ageing body :)

threedogs
29th September 2015, 10:48 AM
Know the bogged feeling all too well, working on the Ghan line south of Kulgera. rained for two days then had to drive to a homestead to pick up supplies
in a FJ 45 ute older than a cockies egg, as you said bogged down to the chassis rails, took two of us 8 hours digging in the heat and flies, only to have the other guy drive it free with me yelling keep going, keep going, He stopped got out and did that toyota jump with me yelling you idiot,, look.
As he was celerbrating the ute was sinking and sinking fast, not as badly bogged but took another 4 hours to get the ute free.
I then took over the driving and the original task of going to the Homestead was completed. Had a big laugh back at camp

Throbbinhood
29th September 2015, 06:02 PM
Plus you'll need a dual battery system as well, for the winch


Don't need dual battery for winch.. Decent crank battery will be fine.

ImRobboToo
1st October 2015, 10:34 AM
Don't need dual battery for winch.. Decent crank battery will be fine.



Staying on Dual Battery, I see on eBay, redarc has a Dual Battery System kit, then I see a Charger for like $350 . . . (Im no electrician, and HATE electrics with a passion (Had to replace a whole wiring loom in my Acco once because I was getting a short on the chassis somewhere ~ 6 months of blown brake lights every other day :pulls-hair-out:)) With a Dual Battery System, you run the 2 batteries off the Alternator, charging them both at the same time ?? Yes ?? And the charger is like my Ctek Charger in my Trailer, charging through a Anderson Plug ?? Correct ??
With the Dual Batteries, is one of them isolated, for fridge cooling and the likes ??

I'm throwing these out there, because I'm buying ALL parts before, I go to the town Sparky . . . They charged me, $387 to fit a Anderson plug to my Paj so I could tow my trailer and charge the batteries :(

Rock Trol
1st October 2015, 11:53 AM
The redarc dc:dc charger isolates the second battery and also charges it using three stage charging system to 240 volt charger. The main battery is charged directly from alternator. If you use the redarc isolator then both batteries are charged via the alternator. Depends on what type of battery you intend using as a second battery. If its same type as crank battery then the more expensive charger isn't needed.

dads tractor
1st October 2015, 04:15 PM
Look forward to the challenge with my ageing body: Age shall not weary them in a patrol ;have fun in it mate and a 2 3/4" exhaust is the optimum for the 3lt I'm told from the turbo back probably straight through with a resonator .

ImRobboToo
1st October 2015, 09:13 PM
Well had a nice 200km drive home today, and I must say, I'm IMPRESSED . . . This Turbo diesel, didn't even blink at the hills, not moving my foot, it say on 100-110 very easy. Good on the fuel as well. The turbo comes in @2100/2200 rpm (does that seem right??) and it cruises very nicely.

6172561726

A few questions though, there is a button, just under the handbrake, with 'AT' on it. Up is orange light, down is green light . . . I'm guessing this is a All Terrain Button ?? What is it used for, 2 positions ??
From looking at the photos, can you tell if a lift has been done ?? To me the back sseems to be sitting up ?? How do you tell if its been lifted ?? Looking at the springs and shocks, they look stock . . . When backing into the shed, I have about 2" clearance . . The bloke that had it, didn't do anything to it, so he didn't know.


The redarc dc:dc charger isolates the second battery and also charges it using three stage charging system to 240 volt charger. The main battery is charged directly from alternator. If you use the redarc isolator then both batteries are charged via the alternator. Depends on what type of battery you intend using as a second battery. If its same type as crank battery then the more expensive charger isn't needed.

Ah ok, so if I spend good $$ on a Battery, then I wont need the added on charger then . . . This is what I'm looking at eBay ~ redarc dual battery system (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REDARC-SBI12KIT-DUAL-BATTERY-SYSTEM-COMPLETE-PACKAGE-BATTERIES-12-VOLT-ISOLATOR-/400609348146?hash=item5d462d8a32)


Look forward to the challenge with my ageing body: Age shall not weary them in a patrol ;have fun in it mate and a 2 3/4" exhaust is the optimum for the 3lt I'm told from the turbo back probably straight through with a resonator .

Thanks for that info dads . . . Not many 2 3/4" around. Will look though . .

This is a few, of what I believe will be many questions, so please bare with me, because I want to do it right first time :)

Clunk
1st October 2015, 09:28 PM
Im guessing you bought an Auto? Thats what the AT switch will be for but Im not familiar with the GU so couldn't say if it was aftermarket or if it was like the switch in my old GQ, which if set to power would keep the auto in gear longer before changing gear..... or set to Hold

4bye4
1st October 2015, 09:40 PM
Clunk is correct about the A/T switch if its an auto. Just changes the change points on the auto trans. The standard factory switch is in that position. You are not the first to ask - there are a lot of posts about this on this forum.
If its a manual there could be a lot more reading to do.:)

Bacho86
1st October 2015, 09:41 PM
If this is the same switch you are talking about

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/10/22.jpg

Here's a snip from the owners manual explaining

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/10/23.jpg

Just looking at your photo the ride right looks fairy standard, perhaps the rear has spacers in it causing it to sit a little bit heigher


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ImRobboToo
1st October 2015, 09:50 PM
Im guessing you bought an Auto? Thats what the AT switch will be for but Im not familiar with the GU so couldn't say if it was aftermarket or if it was like the switch in my old GQ, which if set to power would keep the auto in gear longer before changing gear..... or set to Hold


Clunk is correct about the A/T switch if its an auto. Just changes the change points on the auto trans. The standard factory switch is in that position. You are not the first to ask - there are a lot of posts about this on this forum.
If its a manual there could be a lot more reading to do.:)


If this is the same switch you are talking about

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/10/22.jpg

Here's a snip from the owners manual explaining

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/10/23.jpg

Just looking at your photo the ride right looks fairy standard, perhaps the rear has spacers in it causing it to sit a little bit heigher


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Doh . . . Of course it is. . . Yes its Auto Been that long since I have played with one. Thanks all . . And no I don't have the Manual, and yes, I am confused with the downloadable version too hahah

Bigcol
1st October 2015, 09:52 PM
correct Clunky
the AT button is so you can hold the gears longer when towing or under heavy load

my personal opinion of the DC~DC chargers is - its a fraud, use 1 battery to charge the other battery - hang on, N#1 battery now flat...........................

get the Redarc dual battery system, your Alt will charge the starting battery 1st, then charge the 2nd battery

if your going to run a fridge, etc, have them ALL running off the 2nd battery
winch should run off the starting battery ~ cause your going to have the motor running to winch yourself out of mischief, so your Alt will constantly be re-charging your 1st battery while you winch

while you get the dual battery system fitted - get them to fit your Boost Gauge & a Dawes Valve (to regulate the Boost Pressure) at the same time
also get a "catch can" fitted - you would be surprised at the amount of oil fumes that are clogging your MAF sensor..............
once you have them fitted, then get your exhaust fitted
then get it "tuned" by a reasonable Diesel Tuning centre - maybe head to Perth and go to UFI (United Fuel Injection - Gt Eastern Hwy, Redcliffe)

never ever heard of a silly question, so dont be shy and ask if your not too sure

then you know it will be running "hunky dorry"

Bigcol
1st October 2015, 09:53 PM
forgot to say,
looks like a nice rig mate.......... well done

ImRobboToo
1st October 2015, 10:06 PM
correct Clunky
the AT button is so you can hold the gears longer when towing or under heavy load

my personal opinion of the DC~DC chargers is - its a fraud, use 1 battery to charge the other battery - hang on, N#1 battery now flat...........................

get the Redarc dual battery system, your Alt will charge the starting battery 1st, then charge the 2nd battery

if your going to run a fridge, etc, have them ALL running off the 2nd battery
winch should run off the starting battery ~ cause your going to have the motor running to winch yourself out of mischief, so your Alt will constantly be re-charging your 1st battery while you winch

while you get the dual battery system fitted - get them to fit your Boost Gauge & a Dawes Valve (to regulate the Boost Pressure) at the same time
also get a "catch can" fitted - you would be surprised at the amount of oil fumes that are clogging your MAF sensor..............
once you have them fitted, then get your exhaust fitted
then get it "tuned" by a reasonable Diesel Tuning centre - maybe head to Perth and go to UFI (United Fuel Injection - Gt Eastern Hwy, Redcliffe)

never ever heard of a silly question, so dont be shy and ask if your not too sure

then you know it will be running "hunky dorry"

Awesome, this is the info I need.
I will just put in a decent battery with isolator then.
I have the Dawes Valve MK 2 - Needle Valve - EGR Plate - Di Combo Kit on its way. They will have a big job, as I have the UNIDEN UH8080S NB 80 CHANNEL UHF+SCANNER+AT870 with 6.5DB BLK ANTENNA, as well as a Anderson Plug to run to the rear, and the frige power for the back to go in too . . .
I'll keep UFI in my mind, as I want it done right first time.


forgot to say,
looks like a nice rig mate.......... well done

Cheers mate. I'm very happy, and not bad for 8K. Leaves me room to add some good stuff :)

Bigcol
1st October 2015, 11:36 PM
Matt at UFI knows Nissan's very well

so you wont go wrong in going there

where abouts in the great southern are you?

Rock Trol
2nd October 2015, 12:20 AM
Ah ok, so if I spend good $$ on a Battery, then I wont need the added on charger then .

I was typing on the phone while at work so I probably should have added more info to my original post. The DC:DC battery charges are useful when charging batteries that require a much higher voltage to be charged fully such as AGM and Calcium deep cycle batteries which tend to be the more expensive types of battery. Also, AGM batteries don't like a lot of amps so the battery charger limits the amps sent to the battery and can vary them depending on temperature and what part of the charge cycle. The charger can supply up to 15 volts (for Calcium batteries) while the alternator only does a max of 14.1 volts on my truck and not for long.

If you are planning on buying a hybrid battery similar to your starter as the second battery (Exide Extreme, Century Overlander etc.) then the battery isolator is all you need and maybe give it a charge with a 240 volt charger when at home. If you are planning on an AGM under the bonnet then a DC;DC charger is the go. About 2.5 years ago I needed a new auxiliary battery and was comparing a Century marine battery and a DEKA AGM battery from the US. Century was $199 and DEKA was $350 on sale. I wanted to try the new technology and went with the AGM. Then a few weeks later I decided to protect my new investment and bought a Redarc 1220 charger off ebay ($320) and installed it myself. In hindsight its not a cost effective way of doing it as the AGM is starting to show signs of not holding a charge as well as it used to. I have run the recondition mode on the battery with my c-tek but it has not made a difference. It still works but it needs to last a long time to pay itself off. The $199 wet cell battery (with the standard isolator that the car came with) would have been a much better and cheaper choice.

So the moral of the story is when you go to buy your battery know what chemistry type you want and the charging method. Simply looking at price and saying the higher the price or the more modern the chemistry type must mean it will last longer is not true.

EDIT - The advantage of an AGM battery is that it charges faster than a wet cell and can also be discharged to a lower state. It can also be used inside a car as it wont spill or vent acid. For an under bonnet install the wet cell is a better choice as it resists heat better and as long as you use the car regularly or top up with a solar panel then speed of recharge isn't an issue. In real life the difference in charge rate between the two types is negligible.

ImRobboToo
2nd October 2015, 12:26 AM
Matt at UFI knows Nissan's very well

so you wont go wrong in going there

where abouts in the great southern are you?

Katanning boy. Returned after 20yrs away.


Ah ok, so if I spend good $$ on a Battery, then I wont need the added on charger then .

I was typing on the phone while at work so I probably should have added more info. The DC:DC battery charges are useful when charging batteries that require a much higher voltage to be charged fully such as AGM and Calcium deep cycle batteries which tend to be the more expensive types of battery. Also, AGM batteries don't like a lot of amps so the battery charger limits the amps sent to the battery and can vary them depending on temperature and what part of the charge cycle. The charger can supply up to 15 volts (for Calcium batteries) while the alternator only does a max of 14.1 volts on my truck and not for long.

If you are planning on buying a hybrid battery similar to your starter as the second battery (Exide Extreme, Century Overlander etc.) then the battery isolator is all you need and maybe give it a charge with a 240 volt charger when at home. If you are planning on an AGM under the bonnet then a DC;DC charger is the go. About 2.5 years ago I needed a new auxiliary battery and was comparing a Century marine battery and a DEKA AGM battery from the US. Century was $199 and DEKA was $350 on sale. I wanted to try the new technology and went with the AGM. Then a few weeks later I decided to protect my new investment and bought a Redarc 1220 charger off ebay ($320) and installed it myself. In hindsight its not a cost effective way of doing it as the AGM is starting to show signs of not holding a charge as well as it used to. I have run the recondition mode on the battery with my c-tek but it has not made a difference. It still works but it needs to last a long time to pay itself off. The $199 wet cell battery (with the standard isolator that the car came with) would have been a much better and cheaper choice.

So the moral of the story is when you go to buy your battery know what chemistry type you want and the charging method. Simply looking at price and saying the higher the price or the more modern the chemistry type must mean it will last longer is not true.

Will keep that in mind. I think I'll just be going the Isolator and Century then.

Cheers


Tapping it out . . .

ImRobboToo
2nd October 2015, 12:55 AM
While I'm here, and so I can order tomorrow, what colour code is the Grey interior ?? G, W or K ?? I own a Mac so can't download nissanfast so if anyone know, so I can order a Pillar pod, that would be great.

Cheers



Tapping it out . . .

ImRobboToo
2nd October 2015, 09:50 AM
Found it on the Plate . . . I'm a K interior :)


Tapping it out . . .

Bigcol
2nd October 2015, 08:18 PM
Katanning boy. Returned after 20yrs away.



ahhhhh yes............ I have Family down there - lots and lots of family dont see them alot though............

ImRobboToo
4th October 2015, 11:36 AM
EDIT - The advantage of an AGM battery is that it charges faster than a wet cell and can also be discharged to a lower state. It can also be used inside a car as it wont spill or vent acid. For an under bonnet install the wet cell is a better choice as it resists heat better and as long as you use the car regularly or top up with a solar panel then speed of recharge isn't an issue. In real life the difference in charge rate between the two types is negligible.

New types of batteries, new Tech, it all gets overwhelming, but the edit makes sense. . . . Will see what the local sparky has in stock.

Thanks for that info RT


ahhhhh yes............ I have Family down there - lots and lots of family dont see them alot though............

Ive been a KA boy since '79' then ran away and joined the Army. Been away for 20+ yrs, and the place hasnt changed much at all, and for a SuperTown, it hasnt really got the infrastructure to refleck that. Im hapy to be back in the country. Hated driving in the East with the amount of traffic, and only recently getting 2 lanes from Syd - Melb it came all too late for me.
A lot of families i knew, are still around, we have just gotten older lol

Well, in the next 3-4 weeks, i have this list going into the Patrol:

Going the IronMan direction for my lift - 2"
Dominator 3" Stainless Exhaust
Redarc Dual Battery System
RaceTech EGT and Boost Gauge
Dawes valve and Needle
EGR Plate
Upgrading my lightforce 170 hallogen to HID with a Upgrade kit (looking at a 22" lightbar to sit on the Roof Rack
Uniden UH8080S NB 80 Channel UHF & Scanner w/ AT870 6.5db Antenna
RAM iPad Air Mount to hold iPad with MudMaps installed running through a Bad Elf Pro+ GPS
Set of Titan Drawers for the back with wings
50Lt Waeco Fridge/Freezer
Full Length Roof Rack
2mtr Awning off passenger side, and a little one off the rear
Thumper Air Compressor
IronMan 48" Hi Lift Jack
Anderson plug through to rear bumper for charging the Trailer Batterie, running through a Ctek Multi XS25000


Its all on order, i just need it too arrive.

After this and Xmas is out the way, i will look at:

Front Air Lockers
12000lb winch
In dash dedicated GPS/Stereo unit (Hoping too get one for xmas)


All the electrics will be done by a sparky, but trying to find a sparky in town (there is only the one in a workshop but looking for another, because i dont like the work this one does) is proving difficult. Im not a Auto Electrician, so i want it done, once, and right the first time.
Will attaempt the mechanical stuff myself, with a little help from here. I suppose I need a CatchCan too, so yea, add that too the list.

Photos as it happens :)

4bye4
4th October 2015, 11:57 AM
Looks like a good list. The only thing I would change is the Ironman lift. Only because when I did mine a cpl of months ago I got 50/50 those who said they were ok and those who hated them. Went for West Coast Suspensions, lots of mining trucks there and I could see them before fitting etc. Three year guarantee.
Auto sparky in Albany or Mt Barker maybe??

Bigcol
4th October 2015, 02:44 PM
Ive been a KA boy since '79' then ran away and joined the Army. Been away for 20+ yrs, and the place hasnt changed much at all, and for a SuperTown, it hasnt really got the infrastructure to refleck that. Im hapy to be back in the country. Hated driving in the East with the amount of traffic, and only recently getting 2 lanes from Syd - Melb it came all too late for me.
A lot of families i knew, are still around, we have just gotten older lol



yeah, I know

every time I head down there, its not changed that much - haven't been for a couple of years (no reunions or deaths in the family)

although I DO love the all ages playground - always stop there for a hour or so

Bigcol
4th October 2015, 02:48 PM
Well, in the next 3-4 weeks, i have this list going into the Patrol:
[LIST]

50Lt Waeco Fridge/Freezer



make sure you run a dedicated cable from 2nd battery to the fridge, the Waeco's have a bad habit of needing good clean power.....

couple of my mates have had all sorts of trouble with the cables.........

ImRobboToo
6th October 2015, 09:57 AM
Looks like a good list. The only thing I would change is the Ironman lift. Only because when I did mine a cpl of months ago I got 50/50 those who said they were ok and those who hated them. Went for West Coast Suspensions, lots of mining trucks there and I could see them before fitting etc. Three year guarantee.
Auto sparky in Albany or Mt Barker maybe??

I was going to go WCS or Tough Dog, but on the weekend, was talking to my Brother inlay, and he swears by ironman. He has has Ironman in his Navara, and patrol Tray back, and travels to the red centre and northern WA up too 4 times a year, for the Finke and the likes, where he races, and he loves ironman. For the price, I'm going to give them a go, and if it all turns to a hard as concrete ride (I've done many a mile in stiff suspension in Military vehicles so I'm betting this will be ok for me) I'll buy WCS Springs and fit them. Problem again resides in living in the country, because WCS wanted to charge me, 340 for shipping the package to me lol I'm getting screwed !!!

I have bought a Tough Dog Return to Centre Steering Dampener, so I have something that isn't Ironman :)

They seem to be getting better in their stuff though. The young fella that I saw in for the Suspension, is good mates with my Step Son, and he told me there is a place in Bunbury, that in the last 10 months alone, have swapped out 3 suspension kits for Ironman, and 12 ARB Bars for ironman bars . . So between him and my Bro Inlaw, I thought, why not :)

4bye4
6th October 2015, 10:03 AM
Yea mate go for it. I have plenty of Ironman gear - just the suspension got so argumentitive when I asked that I decided to go with WCS.

ImRobboToo
17th October 2015, 03:46 PM
Got new rubber yesterday being Coopers S/T Maxx 285 75 R16

Washed and detailed. Look shmick being white :)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/10/209.jpg


Tapping it out . . .

threedogs
17th October 2015, 03:57 PM
And I thought my tint was dark lol

ImRobboToo
17th October 2015, 04:36 PM
And I thought my tint was dark lol

She is like a fridge inside after a few minutes of Air Conditioning. Gotta have dark tint ;)


Tapping it out . . .

ImRobboToo
23rd October 2015, 12:29 PM
Well, I'm just about done.

COMPLETED:

2" Ironman Lift
Tough Dog RTC Steering Dampner
285 75 r16 Cooper S/T Maxx
Dual Redarc Battery System
Boost and EGR Gauge
3" Exhaust
Dawes and Needle valve
Uniden UHF
HID Strikeforce Upgrade
Headlight and High Beam HID Upgrade
Poer Sockets for kits in Rear seats
Narva Power Hub in rear for Fridge and other Auxillary items w/ USB plugs (20Amp in line fuse)
Rear Drawers with side wings



STILL TO COME:
There is still the roof rack to come (its in the post) and I will have it by Tues next week.
On this I have a White plumbers pipe with Baffles and comes in @25lts and a Tap off that. Reversing Spotty on the rear of the rack. Spare Spare Wheel, and I will Weld Jerry Can Holder onto it as well.

I also have on order and will be fitted on the 10Nov is a Kenwood DDX7015BT 7" in-dash Stereo/Touch Screen Unit. It has iPhone/Sama=sung Phone Mirroring. This will then give me Mirroring from my iPhone for Mud Maps and turn by turn navigation. Will be able to play Movies from the Phone or iPad for the kids. (am looking at hard wiring a 10" Screen for the rear so they don't have to strain on trips.I thought about a dedicated GPS, but with this Unit, I can kill 2 birds with one stone.

So I'm nearly where I want it. If I come in with the Trifecta on the Melbourne Cup, will put Air Lockers front and rear, and will put it in for a Injectors and Fuel pump over haul. The car I have always wanted is near completion.
My son jumped into it the other day, and he had a flashback from when he was a lot younger. The word out of his mouth were, "Dad, this reminds me of the trips I did with you in the truck. It smell like your truck, and its as high as it too" haha I had to laugh.

One thing I have noticed since I put the exhaust in yesterday, is the + power I'm getting on the right foot. I will say I need to fine tune the Dawes and Needle, but right of the bat, putting my foot down, I noticed quite a bit more take off . . . It really is surprising the power from just dropping in a bigger exhaust. Quite remarkable.......

Will drop some more pics in when I'm done :)

threedogs
23rd October 2015, 12:40 PM
Carefull with the HID headlights up grade I have 75 watt Hid and
noticed that the reflector is shoot on the top, over the telescopic globe
May be too hot for plastic reflectors

ImRobboToo
23rd October 2015, 01:06 PM
Carefull with the HID headlights up grade I have 75 watt Hid and
noticed that the reflector is shoot on the top, over the telescopic globe
May be too hot for plastic reflectors

Something to keep a eye on. I got the 55w HID so hopefully they aren't too much heat for the 170 Strikers