Y61 New tyres balance and Y62 alignment now steering wobble and veers to left

[warek]

Hi there

I have a 2010 GU Y61 4.8 dual fuel auto patrol wagon with original 17 inch Nissan mag wheels and tyres. Total kms is 59000 on sealed roads, with some towing. No problems with steering veering to left, or steering wheel shake or wobble with old tyres, Bridgestone Dueler 693 275/65/17.. Suspension has a minor lift from original owner with tough dog shockers all round. I have owned the car for 35000 km and it has been carefully driven and performed extremely well.

I decided to replace tyres as they were getting down and I had a puncture after going to the tip. I bought all new tyres which are Bridgestone d697 Lt 8 ply rating same size 275 65 17, made in Japan, with new valves, on original rims balanced and FE alignment from a Kmart tyre and auto service centre.

The tyre invoice has wrong build date, 8 2010 instead of Apr 2010 and FE alignment print outs says it is a Y62 instead of a Y61. Now I have no idea of the measurement differences from a Y61 compared to a Y62 but these are the printed results

Previous values Total Toe LH-RH -1.4mm half Toe LH +0.3 mm half Toe RH -1.7 mm Final values Total Toe LH-RH is +1.7 mm Half Toe LH +0.8 mm half toe RH +0.8 mm
Camber previous value LH +00.13 Rh +00.19 max difference -00.06, final values LH +00.41 Rh +00.20 max difference +00.21

I am confused about the rear axle as I thought the rear was not adjustable however the report says
Previous Total Toe LH_-Rh +0.8mm half toe LH -0.5mm half Toe RH +1.2mm Final values total toe 0.6mm Half Toe LH -0.5mm half toe RH +1.1 mm
Camber previous LH -00.11 RH -00.16 Final Values LH -00.14 RH -00.13

Are the final settings alignment settings applicable for a Y61?

I had the tyre replaced today, Thursday 10 Sept. Taking it back next week but trying to get any ideas if they have misaligned the front end

I have read a few posts about shims ,panhard rod bushes etc, but because it was good enough before I do not understand how this could be part of the problem.

Welcome any suggestions

[MudRunnerTD]

I think they have given you the wrong printout.

[Clunk]

no ide mate but I'd be taking it back and tell them to do it again for the correct car

[warek]

I guess my other question is what are the Y61 front end alignment specifications and is it possible for camber measurements to change when you change toe in adjustments, if toe is the only adjustment for the front end. Or it the print out suspect?

Have a good day




no ide mate but I'd be taking it back and tell them to do it again for the correct car

[Clunk]

well I don't know how its possible to adjust camber and toe on a rear live axle, and I'm pretty sure you can only adjust the toe on the front (but I could be wrong).......... so like I said previously, I'be taking it back and making them do it again free of charge

[Nightjar]

Firstly, if your old tyres wore evenly and you didn't have any steering problems why did you waste money on an alignment?
Secondly it doesn't matter two hoots if their print out is wrong it is the end product you need, steering with out problems.
The tyre mob have stuffed up, demand another alignment/balance and don't enter their doors again.

[peterbr1]

Id take the car 2 a 4x4 specialist and as for the veering to the left I think that is a safety thing Nissan do but not 100% sure

[Dhuck]

For starters, the rear is not adjustable on the rear of a GU. The toe setting should be a total of 0 - 1mm. If your cambers are running in the positive angle, run 0mm toe. If they are very minor negative (-0.1 Degrees) I would run about 0.5mm total toe. Any more camber than 0.1 - 0.2 degrees I would run a total of 1mm toe. Hope this helps. The pulling left could be a caster issue or set back issue.

Where are you located?

Bring on any banter!!!!!!

[warek]

I am in West Gippsland Victoria. Sounds like good advice. Front end alignment was thrown in as part of 4 tyre purchase and the original tyres were wearing very evenly over 59000 km with no tyre rotation.

Would it be another option to just set it back to the measurements that it was which are in the original post?

Also how much difference does it make, LH half toe before was +0.3 now +0.8mm Rh half toe was -1.7mm now +0.8mm is this change enough to cause steering shake and veering to the left or it it likely to be tyres out of balance or out of round as well?

Report says cambers were +00.13 lH RH +00.19 total toe was -1.4 mm now they are camber +00.41 LH and camber +00.20 RH with total tow of +1.7 mm

Setback was -00.02 it is now +00.01
So just to clarify with these figures it has positive camber so you would set LH and RH tow to 0.00 giving total toe of 0 mm

If they have used y62 setup in error and they are trying to achieve total toe of +1.5 mm they are aiming for the wrong setting? If spec for toe of 0-1 mm they have set in incorrectly as total toe is now +1.7mm after adjustment

When you say total toe is 0-1 mm are you saying -1mm 0 to + 1 mm or are you saying 0 to +1mm is the correct range?

Thanks for your valuable post



For starters, the rear is not adjustable on the rear of a GU. The toe setting should be a total of 0 - 1mm. If your cambers are running in the positive angle, run 0mm toe. If they are very minor negative (-0.1 Degrees) I would run about 0.5mm total toe. Any more camber than 0.1 - 0.2 degrees I would run a total of 1mm toe. Hope this helps. The pulling left could be a caster issue or set back issue.

Where are you located?

Bring on any banter!!!!!!

[warek]

FE alignment was included at no charge with 4 new tyre purchase but I assumed when you spend 1000+ that it makes sense to get a wheel alginment as well to extend life of tyres assuming it is done correctly

Have a good day



Firstly, if your old tyres wore evenly and you didn't have any steering problems why did you waste money on an alignment?
Secondly it doesn't matter two hoots if their print out is wrong it is the end product you need, steering with out problems.
The tyre mob have stuffed up, demand another alignment/balance and don't enter their doors again.

[Dhuck]

Bit far to bring it to me to align.


Report says cambers were +00.13 lH RH +00.19 total toe was -1.4 mm now they are camber +00.41 LH and camber +00.20 RH with total tow of +1.7 mm

I am guessing that the lh camber is meant to be +00.14 or at least I am hoping as this is not adjustable. But these figures I would set around 0mm total toe.



Setback was -00.02 it is now +00.01
So just to clarify with these figures it has positive camber so you would set LH and RH tow to 0.00 giving total toe of 0 mm

Setback is ok, Your cambers are in the + range, so yes a total of 0mm will be fine.


If they have used y62 setup in error and they are trying to achieve total toe of +1.5 mm they are aiming for the wrong setting? If spec for toe of 0-1 mm they have set in incorrectly as total toe is now +1.7mm after adjustment

You will possibly wear outside shoulders. The +1.7mm is fine on the Y62 as they have an independent front end.


When you say total toe is 0-1 mm are you saying -1mm 0 to + 1 mm or are you saying 0 to +1mm is the correct range?

I use 0 to +1mm on all solid front 4x4's.

As for the pull. Is it going left when you hold the wheel straight? If you let go of the wheel does id drive straight?

If you let go of the wheel and it goes left, try swapping the front wheels left to right. The issue could lie in the tyres. But first I would get your alignment redone to 0mm - a maximum of +0.5mm and see if it is pulling.

Are you able to take a pic or scan both reports and post them and I will pick them to pieces.

[warek]

Dhuck

Thanks for the input. Yes when I let go off the wheel the car will veer off the left hand


My first attempt to upload pics not sure it it works. If no good I could email it to you if you send me a message with your contact

Thanks for your suggestions

61294




Bit far to bring it to me to align.



I am guessing that the lh camber is meant to be +00.14 or at least I am hoping as this is not adjustable. But these figures I would set around 0mm total toe.



Setback is ok, Your cambers are in the + range, so yes a total of 0mm will be fine.



You will possibly wear outside shoulders. The +1.7mm is fine on the Y62 as they have an independent front end.



I use 0 to +1mm on all solid front 4x4's.

As for the pull. Is it going left when you hold the wheel straight? If you let go of the wheel does id drive straight?

If you let go of the wheel and it goes left, try swapping the front wheels left to right. The issue could lie in the tyres. But first I would get your alignment redone to 0mm - a maximum of +0.5mm and see if it is pulling.

Are you able to take a pic or scan both reports and post them and I will pick them to pieces.

[threedogs]

Double check your front tyre pressures too, you may have a slow leak on e the left.
As suggested swap fronts over.

[Dhuck]

Looks like a bit of a bullshite alignment to me. The camber is not adjustable, yet it has changed quite significantly. Hmmmmmmmm. You need the toe down around 0mm to +0.5mm max. The arseholes have not even measured your caster. This plays a factor in your left hand pull. We need a +0.5 degree to +0.75 degree split in the caster which will counter act the camber on our roads.

If you want to know a bit more, send me a pm with your number and I will give you a call.

[warek]

Dhuck

Attached second alignment printout

61395

Finall result was tyre service recommended I buy an adjustable drag link vehicle pulls to the left?

Have a good day

warek

[Dhuck]

If you are not holding the steering wheel straight and it is veering left then it is not a drag link issue. However, if your steering wheel is down to the right a little and you need to hold it straight and then the left pull starts, then this may be possible that you do need the drag link to correct the steering wheel angle. Have replied to your pm mate

[warek]

Dhuck

What does a drag link cost and if there are different brands what are some of the better ones that are well priced?