RE5R05A - Anyone able to clarify -" If you have a trans fault replace the trans?"

[SpecialDave]

Good day all and sundry,

with trout fishing season opening up next weekend my level of desperation for getting my girl in a state that will facilitate high country access and some premium fly fishing has reached its maximum capacity...

So i've been reading the service manual in detail and am now in the diagnosis throes of - chucking it all in and giving up until i can afford to get it fixed or
getting to the bottom of this and finish the final checks before deciding its going to be a rebuild.

I came across the following line:

SM1E-Y61EG - AT20 or 16 depending on which electronic version you have
NOTE: If any problems occur in the RE5R05A model transmission, replace the entire transmission assembly.

This also appears in the symptoms chart on page AT62:
The diagnostics item numbers show the sequence for inspection. Inspect in order from Item 1.
CAUTION:
I If a problem occurs in the RE5R05A transmission, replace the transmission assembly.
I Condition for “on vehicle” only



To what is entire transmission assembly referring? the whole bl00dy transmission or something smaller and far cheaper and easier to replace?


As a side note: I enquired as to an estimate at a mechanics whom i found via this forum for an input shaft bearing job and was advised it would be a whole transmission rebuild etc and it would be approx $2k and then i said so the auto (which id prefaced the whole conversation with) I was told that oh its an auto, Auto's don't have input shaft bearings because of the torque converter.... and that the job being an auto would probably be double - So the suggestion that its $3K to $4K for an auto pull out, open, replace worn input shaft bearings (that do exist - Needle bearings ), other worn or damaged bits, labour fluids etc by a bloke who doesn't grasp the concept of rotation and lubricated friction and position control management solutions (ie bearings) being required regardless of auto or manual leaves me almost wanting to sell the bloody thing.... WFT?

I was hesitant to even think about doing an auto at home but seriously that's robbery and if that's the cost i simply cannot afford it and will end up diy!

[NissanGQ4.2]

I've just had a few bourbons after getting back from a weekend of camping.

Whats the question???

Yes easily 3-4K to rebuild an auto gearbox from a mechanic.

Whats wrong with your gearbox anyway? Have you taken it 2 an auto specialist like Wholesale Automatics to get it tested?

[SpecialDave]

I've got serious chatter coming out of the box. Suspect input shaft. There's no fault codes and I've eliminated all other drive train elements.

[SpecialDave]

And no haven't had tested as due to some personal challenges I'm low funded and doing as much diy as possible

[jff45]

You don't mention slippage or other typical auto issues so if it's only chattering noise maybe check to see if the TC hasn't come loose..

[Sherro]

It may even have cracked flexplate.

[happygu]

I think Dave has had Coolant contamination through the Auto box, due to a corroded radiator.....

Have you thought about trying to get a good box from the wreckers if you are going to do it yourself in the driveway?

[SpecialDave]

Thanks all - TC timing chain?
Flexplate I'll look into...
I suspected contam - I learnt that matic J was superceded as it was the cause of corrosion between radiator and atf cooling unit - I pulled out a few litres of fluid to check and also looked at my coolant levels and it doesn't appear to be the case...
I did a stall test last night and landed on 1900-1950 for both D and R so it's in range which may indicate a clutch and in slowly but surely losing power out of the transmission further supporting that...
The issue doesn't occur at low temp which made me consider its the. Pressure as at low atf temp the pressure is boosted - the chatter is getting very loud! Would there be a pump on the way out maybe? The low temp factor has me buggered!!!

[jff45]

No mate, TC = torque converter..

[SpecialDave]

Yep I actually asked that question - I'm a bit of a dh! Absolute duh moment probably due to sleep deprivation! Cheers for the clarifier.... Now if I only I could figure out why when I'm driving fast and I push the stick into the power (p) mode the car slows down and makes noise [emoji41]


I'm about to go through the service manual again - loose TC - easy check?

[SpecialDave]

So spent about an hour under the old girl, in the cold, in the nearest national park some didn't p off the neighbours with her running and the occasional rev.

Fluid is fine - no evidence of burning or coolant contamination.
So I had my fav long screw driver stuck to my ear most of the time listening time internals and the noise is 100% from the bell end... It's right at the mating surface - and the noise has gone from a chatter to a matalic rattle as if you had a piece of stainless on top of an anvil and went over a fair whack of ripples...still predominately when in gear.

No slipping as such but power loss for sure.

[mudski]

I think i did read somewhere of the flex plate failing. Was on this forum I'm sure. There was a pic of the plate that had totally destroyed itself.

[lhurley]

When you checked the fluid, did you check it off the dip stick or off the drain plug?

If i can remember correctly my auto had a similar sound, metally rattley kind of sound, and it was the Torque Converter. The internal bearing collapsed. Check the drain plug for excess metal shavings.

[SpecialDave]

Last night dipper but have checked drain a week ago and found some metal

[SpecialDave]

When you checked the fluid, did you check it off the dip stick or off the drain plug?

If i can remember correctly my auto had a similar sound, metally rattley kind of sound, and it was the Torque Converter. The internal bearing collapsed. Check the drain plug for excess metal shavings.

Can I enquire as to your repair?

Diy or mechanic and if the later approx co$t!

Cheers

Dg

[lhurley]

I had it done at a shop as it actually broke down. Reason being all the bits of torque converter blocked the cooler and melted everything.

Had I gotten it rebuilt before melting everything, would of been about 2k. In the end it cost me $4300.

Not saying that yours will end up being like that, but they aren't cheap.



How much metal was on the plug? Would your say it was a lot or seemed normal? Mine has more then expected before it died.

[SpecialDave]

Very slightly more - looks like tranny coming off and the wallet getting emptied!

[lhurley]

Tbh it's cheaper to get it properly fixed before it destroyes itself.

Could just put a wrecker box in in the mean time until funds allow but then you are running the risk that it's in sh!tty condition.