Oil - what would you do

[Cuppa]

...... if you were me?

My TD42i Patrol is coming up to another 5000k oil change. The first since I fitted the gauges. Since owning the car I’ve always used Penrite HPR 15/50w semi synthetic, but now I can see what the oil pressure is when cold I’m wondering if I should change to a ’thinner’ oil. Pressure is fine once the motor has warmed up, running between 20 & 60psi (dependent on engine revs of course), but when it’s cold the reading easily reaches the max on the gauge (80psi) so who knows what it actually goes up to! My concern is that this pressure may eventually lead to blown seals or gaskets. To date it’s all stayed inside the motor (no leaks) but I do find the high pressure disconcerting. It takes longer for the oil to warm up (& pressure to reduce) than it does for the coolant to come up to temp. Consequently I often start the motor & leave it idling for 15 minutes or more before going out, & when it’s not convenient to do this find I need to keep revs down & speeds below 70kph for several kilometres (Ballarat is cold) until fully warmed up to keep the pressure below 80psi, sometimes. . When other traffic is doing 100 this is a pain.

Soooo...... I’m wondering whether to change to a 5w40 or stick with the 15w50. My uncertainty is driven by a couple of factors. A. I’ve never used a 5w40 oil before in anything so am unsure if it will give me a higher pressure on start up & B. I have enough 15w50 for another oil change. I rarely rev the motor higher than 3k & most of the time EGT’s are between 250 & 350 deg.C with only occasional forays north of 400.

Summer is coming, so ambient temperatures will rise allowing faster warm up.

So what would you do?

If I were to go for 5w40 ..... does anyone have any thoughts on STP http://catalogue.supercheapauto.com.au/catalogue/supercheap-auto-catalogue-spark-something-in-dad-this-father-s-day/53nz6ws1g.html#pageNo=16&offerId=14398672429255

[Bacho86]

Why not try the 10w-40 if you're concerned about dropping all the way down to a 5w? (Assuming it meets specs for td42)


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/08/309.jpg


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[paulyg]

HI Cuppa, why not use the same oil for now, seeing as we are coming in to summer soon.
I use the same oil in my wagon {ZD30}, I let it warm up a bit before I drive it, I have had no problems, although I don't Know what the pressure is when cold.
I think I will get better protection when the weather is hot and the motor is working hard like when towing.

[Sir Roofy]

What did you do before the gauges and might as well use up what you have
research full synthetic and see what you think
I'm using Tri Tech 15/40 and seems ok and stays clean longer

[Cuppa]

Local supercheap want $99 10w40 at the moment.

Think I’ll stick with what I have, I don’t do a lot of mileage so the next change will likely last me right through the summer.
Prior to fitting the gauges I took things gently until the factory temp gauge showed the motor was up to operating temp. Only difference with the redarc gauges is that I now know that the factory gauges are misleading & would advise anyone relying on them to take things easy until the temp gauge shows working temp + another 2 or 3 kilometres (at least during winter).

[threedogs]

I use a 5/40 Penrite as I have no oil leaks, very happy with it too.
If your motor is not leaking oil stick to the spec for your climate.
If you stare at your gauges all the time you'll go paranoid, just drive it

[Cuppa]

.
If you stare at your gauges all the time you'll go paranoid, just drive it

Ha ha............. probably true ............. now why is it we all fit gauges? ........ oh that’s right , so we can ignore them. Chortle chortle.

[Bigcol]

I must admit though Cuppa, I fitted mine - with the warnings set, but hardly look at them
only when towing
only when alarm goes off
then adjust driving to suit if need be
like, my Turbo is set for 8lb boost - when it reached 12lb, alarm goes off - I back off the pedal
or, when the alarm goes off for the EGTs - set at 500* - back off when alarm goes off
etc

but, back to your original question, I would carry on doing what you do - with the oil you already have
its what I use
and
now I've noticed mine is due as well, thanks Cuppa...........................

[Cuppa]

Hi Col,
I’m interested that your boost is set for 8psi but will go up to at least 12psi.

Mine was around 8psi factory standard but that was it’s maximum.

After getting it dyno’d max is 13.5psi & I’d need to be towing & giving it the berries up a steepish hill to get the EGT up to 500. I’ve got my alarm set at 525 but haven’t triggered it since the dyno tune (prior to that I was constantly backing off when it was triggered). The tuner suggested that 600 was quite ok as a back off point, but I doubt I could get mine up to that if I tried. Most of the time EGT sits between 250 & 350.

If your boost goes up to 12psi (or beyond) & you have your alarm set to 8psi wouldn’t your alarm be sounding virtually all the time? I regularly see 8+ when just poodling around in granny mode.

[Bigcol]

it is "apparently" set at 8lb boost from factory
the alarm is set at 12
usually sits at about 9lb at 100kms in 5th empty or 10-11 at 100 in 5th with van on

I have the EGTs set at 500 - so I know when to back off - and its only when towing the Van up big hills trying to stay at 100 that it will go up that way
oil pressure is set at 90
water temp set at 110


I do have to get mine into Matt at UFI for a Dyno and get it setup betterer
since I've had the Gas injection fixed, it runs really well

without the Van - going to and from work (150kms per day) I'm averaging 12.4L per 100

still havent worked it out with the Van on though

[Bigcol]

my EGTs under normal driving (to and from work) never goes over the 320-350

mostly its sitting at around 300*

[morton2478]

Hey guys just a quick one does any one know if there is a set distance the egt probe should be from the turbo

[Bigcol]

usually its

"about that much"

[kevin07]

...... if you were me?

My TD42i Patrol is coming up to another 5000k oil change. The first since I fitted the gauges. Since owning the car I’ve always used Penrite HPR 15/50w semi synthetic, but now I can see what the oil pressure is when cold I’m wondering if I should change to a ’thinner’ oil. Pressure is fine once the motor has warmed up, running between 20 & 60psi (dependent on engine revs of course), but when it’s cold the reading easily reaches the max on the gauge (80psi) so who knows what it actually goes up to! My concern is that this pressure may eventually lead to blown seals or gaskets. To date it’s all stayed inside the motor (no leaks) but I do find the high pressure disconcerting. It takes longer for the oil to warm up (& pressure to reduce) than it does for the coolant to come up to temp. Consequently I often start the motor & leave it idling for 15 minutes or more before going out, & when it’s not convenient to do this find I need to keep revs down & speeds below 70kph for several kilometres (Ballarat is cold) until fully warmed up to keep the pressure below 80psi, sometimes. . When other traffic is doing 100 this is a pain.

Soooo...... I’m wondering whether to change to a 5w40 or stick with the 15w50. My uncertainty is driven by a couple of factors. A. I’ve never used a 5w40 oil before in anything so am unsure if it will give me a higher pressure on start up & B. I have enough 15w50 for another oil change. I rarely rev the motor higher than 3k & most of the time EGT’s are between 250 & 350 deg.C with only occasional forays north of 400.

Summer is coming, so ambient temperatures will rise allowing faster warm up.

So what would you do?

If I were to go for 5w40 ..... does anyone have any thoughts on STP http://catalogue.supercheapauto.com.au/catalogue/supercheap-auto-catalogue-spark-something-in-dad-this-father-s-day/53nz6ws1g.html#pageNo=16&offerId=14398672429255

that 15 -50 is what is recommended. also cuppa I don't believe your doing your motor any favours by letting it idle for 15 minutes (glazing) that long idle thing is something from the past when oils were not oils.

[Clunk]

that 15 -50 is what is recommended. also cuppa I don't believe your doing your motor any favours by letting it idle for 15 minutes (glazing) that long idle thing is something from the past when oils were not oils.
Yep, just start and go

[Cuppa]

I don't believe your doing your motor any favours by letting it idle for 15 minutes (glazing) that long idle thing is something from the past when oils were not oils.


Yep, just start and go

Yeah, I’ve thought about this but failed to reach a conclusion. :rolleyes:
Seems to me it’s a six of one & half a dozen of the other situation. Not idling/just starting & going avoids the idling induced glazing of bores, but potentially increases the possibility of valve stem wear & high oil pressure induced oil leaks.
I suspect the best compromise is to start & go after brief idle (once the tappets become less ‘clattery’) .... driving gently until fully warmed up. Problem I have is that within a few hundred metres of leaving my driveway I have to turn onto a major two lane road, in the middle of a bend, meaning that even when no traffic is in view, it is still common having pulled out to have traffic come up behind me at 100-110kph. It is this circumstance where I have to decide to accelerate hard with a cold motor, or to keep it gentle & have frustrated drivers braking right up my clacker.

When it suits I take a longer back route into town where I do just start & go, & keep it gentle until warmed up.

[Cuppa]

it is "apparently" set at 8lb boost from factory
the alarm is set at 12
usually sits at about 9lb at 100kms in 5th empty or 10-11 at 100 in 5th with van on



Perhaps my understanding of how boost is ’set’ is incorrect. I thought that when boost was ’set’, that the ‘set’ figure referred to maximum boost as this is how it was in my car on factory settings. i.e. Maximum boost was around 8psi.

When on the dyno maximum boost was set at 13.5psi.

In both cases it was/is not possible to exceed the maximum boost setting without further tuning/adjustments.

[Bigcol]

Yeah, I’ve thought about this but failed to reach a conclusion. :rolleyes:
Seems to me it’s a six of one & half a dozen of the other situation. Not idling/just starting & going avoids the idling induced glazing of bores, but potentially increases the possibility of valve stem wear & high oil pressure induced oil leaks.
I suspect the best compromise is to start & go after brief idle (once the tappets become less ‘clattery’) .... driving gently until fully warmed up. Problem I have is that within a few hundred metres of leaving my driveway I have to turn onto a major two lane road, in the middle of a bend, meaning that even when no traffic is in view, it is still common having pulled out to have traffic come up behind me at 100-110kph. It is this circumstance where I have to decide to accelerate hard with a cold motor, or to keep it gentle & have frustrated drivers braking right up my clacker.

When it suits I take a longer back route into town where I do just start & go, & keep it gentle until warmed up.

I start mine
put on my seat belt
put it into reverse and go

by the time I have traveled less than 1km, its at temp
but I have been up to 4th and back down again 4 times in that 1km

[Bigcol]

Perhaps my understanding of how boost is ’set’ is incorrect. I thought that when boost was ’set’, that the ‘set’ figure referred to maximum boost as this is how it was in my car on factory settings. i.e. Maximum boost was around 8psi.

When on the dyno maximum boost was set at 13.5psi.

In both cases it was/is not possible to exceed the maximum boost setting without further tuning/adjustments.

I have been told that
because of the Gas injection, mine WILL over boost
especially when the EGTs are up

but

once I get off my fat lazy one, and get it into Matt at UFI - get it dyno'd and tuned

it should be better

[Bigcol]

it is "apparently" set at 8lb boost from factory
the alarm is set at 12
usually sits at about 9lb at 100kms in 5th empty or 10-11 at 100 in 5th with van on

I have the EGTs set at 500 - so I know when to back off - and its only when towing the Van up big hills trying to stay at 100 that it will go up that way
oil pressure is set at 90
water temp set at 110


I do have to get mine into Matt at UFI for a Dyno and get it setup betterer
since I've had the Gas injection fixed, it runs really well

without the Van - going to and from work (150kms per day) I'm averaging 12.4L per 100

still havent worked it out with the Van on though

I was going to edit - but thought NAH

had a closer look today on the way home from work

tis a porky
I was sitting on 100kms and it sits at about 5lb
pic to show.............excuse the crappy pic - was the passenger taking photo

60916

[nissannewby]

Where are concerned that oil is going to leak from?

What do your trips consist of? (Time length etc etc). How long does it take you to get to a service interval? What are your service intervals and filters?

[Cuppa]

Where are concerned that oil is going to leak from?

What do your trips consist of? (Time length etc etc). How long does it take you to get to a service interval? What are your service intervals and filters?

I guess I was thinking blown seals/gaskets.
I’ve only done around 20,000kms since buying it in December 2011 (with 154,000kms on it). Oil & filter change every 5000kms, & fuel filter every 10,000kms.
Most trips currently are into town & home again - say 15 to 20 minutes each way. A few longer trips of several hours driving. At previous address all trips were a minimum of around 70kms.
Car is used once or twice a week.

’Saving’ it for the purpose for which it was bought - long term/long distance travel.

[nissannewby]

Ok. Your oil pressure is still ok. There is a degree of inaccuracy in the gauges and their senders.

For the last 12 months my ute has done very little work and I notice the difference with my oil pressure. I only travel about 15km a day and it barely is enough time for it to get to operating temp (about 7.5km each way). Now before the last 12 months I didnt do much that was less than 40km each way. Short trips generally add more soot content to the oil as it never has a chance to really get warm and work the way it was intended. Now with all the short trips and stop starting I do now once i get to about 3000km from last service my oil pressure will start to read a little higher. I have also had instances of 100psi.

Possibly just try a filter change first and see if it alters your readings when cold. I would stick with the oil you have been using or if you want to change drop to a 14w-40.

[threedogs]

Food for thought, I've never seen a diesel Gen-set "warm up"
You might be killing your motor with kindness tough as they are.