Steering Shake.

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi Everyone.
I am sure this question has been asked a million times before but I am lost as to why I have the dreaded steering shake in my GU.
I have new tyres, fitted,balanced and a wheel alignment. Had fitted a new Steering Damper. Have had it all checked out and everything appears to be good in the front end including wheel bearings.

Its faintly noticeable 60 k's and up but its when I hit just below 100 k's that my steering wheel really shakes--so does the cab seem to.

Tomorrow its going in for Panhard Bushes and apart from that I NEED HELP AS TO WHAT ELSE I COULD TRY.

HELP NEEDED GUYS.

Mrs Ronnie.Bang Head

[rusty_nail]

Hi Everyone.
I am sure this question has been asked a million times before but I am lost as to why I have the dreaded steering shake in my GU.
I have new tyres, fitted,balanced and a wheel alignment. Had fitted a new Steering Damper. Have had it all checked out and everything appears to be good in the front end including wheel bearings.

Its faintly noticeable 60 k's and up but its when I hit just below 100 k's that my steering wheel really shakes--so does the cab seem to.

Tomorrow its going in for Panhard Bushes and apart from that I NEED HELP AS TO WHAT ELSE I COULD TRY.

HELP NEEDED GUYS.

Mrs Ronnie.Bang Head

i always find this one useful when troubleshooting. from what i can see your halfway there. i just my panhard bushes changed and that seemed to fix the problem for me

60581

[threedogs]

Mine has a slight shake but only under brakes .
I have to nip up the wheel bearings on the week end.
After the panhard bushes ,It may be other bushes so check all
with a long bar

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Thanks for that.

Will give this to Matt tomorrow. Yes looks like I am about half way through the list. New panhard bushes tomorrow so will see how that goes. Fingers crossed its sorted by doing that.

Thanks again fo rthe info.

[threedogs]

I've never had the dreaded Patrol 80k-90k wobbles
well not yet

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi all
Just an update. Had the truck in today for a check over and to have Panhard bushes changed. Turns out the driver side one had been done--near new but the other was original with only slight movement. Had it changed anyway and seems to have rectified my problem- 98 percent better anyway. Also took it back to have wheel allignment adjusted--had a noticeable pull to the left and the steering wheel also was going to the left. All good and it drives so much better.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Seems its a process of elimination and going through until you find the culprit.

Mrs H

[rusty_nail]

thats great news bud! im in the same boat as you and am pro at 98% atm. still have a pull to the left though, what did your place do to rectify it? i tool it to a bob jane and they said it was the camber of the road lol, i told em it was bullshit but hey they wouldnt budge.

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi
I had a wheel alignment about a week back and also new tyres fitted. I took it back yesterday arvo because it seemed to want to go left all the time. They did a test drive, bought it back and did some adjustments and seems fine now, although according to manufacturers specifications they are designed to have a slight veer to the left in case you fall asleep while driving and by this it means you run off the side of the road on the left I guess. ???.
Anyway apart from that truck is driving good now.

My patrol is all original and that also means everything on it is original. (2001 Model GU). It has always been regularly serviced and was very well looked after--NO BEACH EVER , no modifications to it in any way which is what I wanted. I am pleased that my problem has been sorted and it was only a matter of trial and error and no significant cost to do it.

I am replacing a few things here and there until I am satisfied with it. I am abit particular with it so want it all to be up to scratch mechanically just for me.

If you haven't done it get an alignment or take it back for some adjustments.

Mrs h

[peterbr1]

http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1BtdFmyFv9s/maxresdefault.jpg click link for a pic Try removing the shims in the upper and lower king pins and regrease the bearings this should fix the shake, the lower bolts may be tricky coz its so close to guard but its do-able

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi
I have heard of that and also heard alot of people having more trouble after removing them. My shake seemed good but has returned. It feels like more of a steering issue--the steering wheel shakes from side to side but only badly around that 100k mark. Can feel it at lesser speeds sometimes but more at 100 k's.
So back to square one for me. Have had everything checked over and all seems good and tight. Think I will put it back in and get King pin bearings and all done properly and see how it goes. At least if its done by a mechanic and something goes wrong I can take it back and get it fixed.

Mrs H

[peterbr1]

Mrs R, just try it nothing will happen, if you do it your self you'll save heaps of cash, I've owned 4 Nissan gu,s in my time and every one wobbled removing the shims worked every time, no caster corrections, wheel alignments this that just shims and no troubles at all ever. Also what trouble have you heard of? only one I know of is a slightly tighter steering but only slight. You may also get a little veering left and right whilst driving to fix that just screw in the adjusting screw at the top of the steering arm just a little like 2-3mm in max no more. Oh also if you do decide to do it take the wheel off to reduce the weight a bit and I think from memory, there is no other way to get rid of the wobble.

[jono6974]

Can I ask, whether the wobble is a side to side movement? My patrol feels like the wheels are oscillating. More like an up or down movement.
Seems to happen on really uneven roads. I am thinking it might be shock or tyre related. Not sure if this is the same thing that you are experiencing.

[taslucas]

Can I ask, whether the wobble is a side to side movement? My patrol feels like the wheels are oscillating. More like an up or down movement.
Seems to happen on really uneven roads. I am thinking it might be shock or tyre related. Not sure if this is the same thing that you are experiencing.
If it really is up and down movement then it can only be bumps in the road or a tyre out of balance. Even if a shock or spring is buggered it won't give up and down bounce if the road is smooth and flat.
When was the last time you had a wheel balance?

tappa lives!

[peterbr1]

Hi Jono, do a couple of tests, jack the car up and check the wheel bearing give it a shake from the top and bottom both front driver and passenger side if there's slack then tighten the bearings up a bit , then place something under tyre and lower it just til it touches a bit then lift it up a fraction then spin the wheel and see if it contacts anywhere to see if the tyre is seated properly or out of round do all 4 wheels whilst your doing each tyre check for any bulges on the side walls, have you had a puncture and use that sealant gel crap? then give your shocks a test by pushing down on the front guard if it doesn't stop bouncing straight away then you may need new shocks and while your at it check the rubber mounts at the top and bottom of the shock they may need nipping up if that fails go see pedders for a full suspension test Oh and yes its fast side to side movement

[jono6974]

Thanks for the replies. I will look into it when time allows.
The wheels were last balanced when tyres were put on. They are about 50 percent worn.
Never had a puncture, and will give the bonnet a push and see what happens. The road does have some irregularities, but my other car does not respond in the same way.
I was thinking th bulky tyres could make it worse. Will check it all out though. Thanks for the advice and apologies for hijacking a thread.

[jono6974]

Thanks for the replies. I will look into it when time allows.
The wheels were last balanced when tyres were put on. They are about 50 percent worn.
Never had a puncture, and will give the bonnet a push and see what happens. The road does have some irregularities, but my other car does not respond in the same way.
I was thinking th bulky tyres could make it worse. Will check it all out though. Thanks for the advice and apologies for hijacking a thread.

[peterbr1]

yeah you could be right about the tyres what psi do you pump them up too? I go to 40psi

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi all
I have a steering shake from side to side.Doesn't go to one side or the other just a shake that seems to come from the steering itself. Had the steering damper done, new panhard bushes, new tyres, wheel alignment etc. Taking it in on Thursday again and going to try a few things with it. If all else fails then I will ask him to remove the King pin bearing shims and see if that fixes my problem. Anyone against doing this for any reason.
Everything underneath looks in good condition-shocks, bushes, everything has been checked- There is absolutely no wheel wobble so bearings etc are all good. Maybe we should all band together and get Nissan to take them all back and fix it for us.
I run my tyres at 40psi- think that would be about right.

Mrs H

[Clunk]

Hi
I have heard of that and also heard alot of people having more trouble after removing them. My shake seemed good but has returned. It feels like more of a steering issue--the steering wheel shakes from side to side but only badly around that 100k mark. Can feel it at lesser speeds sometimes but more at 100 k's.
So back to square one for me. Have had everything checked over and all seems good and tight. Think I will put it back in and get King pin bearings and all done properly and see how it goes. At least if its done by a mechanic and something goes wrong I can take it back and get it fixed.

Mrs H

I couldn't see for looking but what size tyres are you running and at what PSI?

[peterbr1]

Good luck Mrs H, and yeah ill be in with the banding this is my 4th patrol all with steering shake at 80kp/h

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi again
My mechanic has had a few patrols and he has never had this problem at all. His current one has 3 inch lift and heaps of mods and nothing. he is stumped.

Was just asked what tyres i am running- Kumho Road Venture 265-75-16's brand new. 40psi.

Mrs H

[Clunk]

Hi again
My mechanic has had a few patrols and he has never had this problem at all. His current one has 3 inch lift and heaps of mods and nothing. he is stumped.

Was just asked what tyres i am running- Kumho Road Venture 265-75-16's brand new. 40psi.

Mrs H
Ahhh ok, so they're not 33" muddies then. Larger tyres can sometimes be harder to balance correctly..... Im winderibg if thats the case with yours, or if the tyres are slightly out round.

Mine also suffered from really bad wobble recently, but mine was just really badly worn nolathane panhard bushes, which I replaced on the weekend with genuine rubber.... no more wobble at all.

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Ahhh ok, so they're not 33" muddies then. Larger tyres can sometimes be harder to balance correctly..... Im winderibg if thats the case with yours, or if the tyres are slightly out round.

Mine also suffered from really bad wobble recently, but mine was just really badly worn nolathane panhard bushes, which I replaced on the weekend with genuine rubber.... no more wobble at all.

Hi
My GU is stock standard with no modifications whatsoever. i wanted one that way. had panhard bushes replaced and a few other things so will wait and see what matty does tomorrow. Fingers crossed whatever he does fixes it. Our gQ has 33's 3 inch lift and few changes and no wobbles at all. Its hard to figure why some do it and some don't.

Mrs H

[threedogs]

Couple of things , did you have the wheel bearings checked for movement?
40 psi around town may be a bit firm, 40 psi more suited to HWY work,
take them down to say 35 front and 38 rear , you'll feel the difference straight away

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Couple of things , did you have the wheel bearings checked for movement?
40 psi around town may be a bit firm, 40 psi more suited to HWY work,
take them down to say 35 front and 38 rear , you'll feel the difference straight away

Hi
Wheel bearings and everything underneath have been checked with nothing found. Panhards bushes both replaced, new steering damper, wheel alignment,new tyres. I spend more time on hwy than around town so thought 40psi would be fine.

Funny thing is you can cruise over 110 and its like being in a normal car. Only shakes between 98 and 105 k's. Weird.

Mrs H

[Clunk]

Hi
Wheel bearings and everything underneath have been checked with nothing found. Panhards bushes both replaced, new steering damper, wheel alignment,new tyres. I spend more time on hwy than around town so thought 40psi would be fine.

Funny thing is you can cruise over 110 and its like being in a normal car. Only shakes between 98 and 105 k's. Weird.

Mrs H
Im still leaning towards wherl balance issues

[peterbr1]

Hey Clunk $10 says its the king pin spacers lol

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hey Clunk $10 says its the king pin spacers lol

Hi
I will let you know what it is tomorrow hopefully. I have an idea it is not Spacers but something more toward the steering adjustment and wheel balance/alignment.

You guys will just have to wait and see. I just have this feeling my shake is more to do with the steering (box) and what i just mentioned. We will see.

Mrs H.

[Clunk]

Hey Clunk $10 says its the king pin spacers lol
King pin spacers arent a cause vibration/wheel wobble though, removing them may help it though. But what issues can it cause by removing them

[mudski]

King pin spacers arent a cause vibration/wheel wobble though, removing them may help it though. But what issues can it cause by removing them
I removed mine just out of curiosity a while back. I could barely turn the stub axle after refitting the bearings. So back in the shims went. I didnt measure the thickness of the shims though. As there is different thickness shims available. ..

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi Guys

No money to change hands yet boys.

Like I said I have had everything checked out and nothing was found. Nothing at all underneath needs to be replaced or taken out. Well-not yet anyway.

I am determined to find the cause of my problem and fix it rather than just put a bandaid on it and then maybe stuff something in the meantime.

I had a slight adjustment to my steering today and it is better but in no way has Steering been confirmed as the cause. That is why it is going to be investigated some more.

I have just had a call from a Local business who have come highly recommended so am taking it over next week. A test drive and full checkup to source the problem and have it corrected. It might mean spending a few dollars but if diagnosed and fixed properly in the first instance may save alot of grief down the track and alot more dollars.

From my conversations and knowing the experience of these people I am sure it is to do with Steering and wheels but cannot be confirmed as yet so hold onto your money guys and we will see who's right.

Will keep you updated on what is found.

Mrs H

[peterbr1]

King pin spacers arent a cause vibration/wheel wobble though, removing them may help it though. But what issues can it cause by removing them


Over time things loosen up as so with the king pin bearings just imagine all that torque and weight in 2/4wd those bearings get, this is why the shims are there so when the bearings loosen up they can be re adjusted by removing them or adding them thicker, thinner, add or reduce preload. That's their job to shim, also a lot of people for some reason don't clean out the old grease and repack them, I've done this mod now for over 15 years and never had any dramas; with the shims removed those bearing can still take a pounding I've never heard of a king pin that has failed at all. Anyway I just bought this patrol around 6 months ago, patrol no. 4 and it too had the GU wobble I removed the shims and repacked them with high temp grease after a good cleaning and now it runs beautiful at any speed. Im not saying you must do this and im most certainly not infallible, a lot of people do this fix for e.g. intent4x4 on YouTube just to name one, still tho its good practise to check and replace any other worn out items along the way, this is not an argument just a stipulation and having said that I would just take the shims out if its fixed go with it if not then put them back in it will cost you 1/2 an hour of your time.

[Muttley]

mine has decided to start this crap - well so far over the last 6mths I've completely replaced all bearings, inc king pins - slightly tighter pre-load than spec on everything to stop mine - as well as panhard bushes, radius arm bushes, steering damper, next stop is wheel balance check, then on to all ball joints, steering box and if required uni joints - horribly frustrating... never did it until i fitted new tyres (of same size and brand that i'd previously fitted) so I'm very interested to know your results Mrs H...

i can't get over 86kmh - if i do it starts - and only gets worse as i get faster - ready to sell the heap.

[jack180]

well - I've had my GUVIII for just over 3 weeks. Only 70k on the clock.
Tonight i have had a visit from the wobbles - between 75 and 100kmh
Settles over 100km
But my car has been parked at the airport for a few days, and when i returned and left the carpark i had to stop and check because i though my wheel nuts were loose it was shaking that much - settled a bit after 30 mins driving, but still there, just not as bad.
I had a quick check when i got home.
Don't seem to have play in the bearings, everything underneath seems ok.
Steering damper seems to work fine

So would any of you suggest a balance and alignment, or straight to removing the shims?

I'm keen to try the "free" fix options i can do myself first, but perhaps i should get the balance and alignment checked before i start doing shims and bearings?

Had no issue until a few days ago, so unless its thrown a weight of the Tyre i cant see it being a balance issue, but i feel as if the steering has too much play in it.

[peterbr1]

well - I've had my GUVIII for just over 3 weeks. Only 70k on the clock.
Tonight i have had a visit from the wobbles - between 75 and 100kmh
Settles over 100km
But my car has been parked at the airport for a few days, and when i returned and left the carpark i had to stop and check because i though my wheel nuts were loose it was shaking that much - settled a bit after 30 mins driving, but still there, just not as bad.
I had a quick check when i got home.
Don't seem to have play in the bearings, everything underneath seems ok.
Steering damper seems to work fine

So would any of you suggest a balance and alignment, or straight to removing the shims?

I'm keen to try the "free" fix options i can do myself first, but perhaps i should get the balance and alignment checked before i start doing shims and bearings?

Had no issue until a few days ago, so unless its thrown a weight of the Tyre i cant see it being a balance issue, but i feel as if the steering has too much play in it.

Try removing the shims you can always put them back if it doesn't work and the wobbles will loosen up the steering more and more over time inc tie rods bushes etc. etc.

[jack180]

Try removing the shims you can always put them back if it doesn't work and the wobbles will loosen up the steering more and more over time inc tie rods bushes etc. etc.

Yep. Forecast some rain tomorrow so i reckon its garage day tomorrow. Ill give everything the once over and remove the shims and see how i go.
On a drive today it was getting worse - so i need solve it.

[jack180]

Well there you go - a few hours in the garage today, removed the shims of both front wheels, and wallah -no more wobbles.
Still a slight vibration right through the speed range, so in for a balance and alignment this week, but i think Ive cracked it.
Gees, removing the shims also really tightened up the steering as well - a lot better to drive!

Cheers,
Jack.

[peterbr1]

Good to hear, I like the tighter steering too just feels better cheers mate. I wonder how Rhonda is doing with her car?

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Good to hear, I like the tighter steering too just feels better cheers mate. I wonder how Rhonda is doing with her car?


Hi all
Nothing to report sorry to say. Other things have taken priorities this last week or so but Friday it is. Was pretty good until this week after i had the steering adjusted but its started shaking again and driving me nutty. I still think it is in the steering itself and needs to be adjusted properly or something is worn out and needs replacing.

Stand by for a full report.

Mrs H.

[threedogs]

well - I've had my GUVIII for just over 3 weeks. Only 70k on the clock.
Tonight i have had a visit from the wobbles - between 75 and 100kmh
Settles over 100km
But my car has been parked at the airport for a few days, and when i returned and left the carpark i had to stop and check because i though my wheel nuts were loose it was shaking that much - settled a bit after 30 mins driving, but still there, just not as bad.
I had a quick check when i got home.
Don't seem to have play in the bearings, everything underneath seems ok.
Steering damper seems to work fine

So would any of you suggest a balance and alignment, or straight to removing the shims?

I'm keen to try the "free" fix options i can do myself first, but perhaps i should get the balance and alignment checked before i start doing shims and bearings?

Had no issue until a few days ago, so unless its thrown a weight of the Tyre i cant see it being a balance issue, but i feel as if the steering has too much play in it.

A friend of mine has some Malasian tyres fitted to his dual cab extended Patrol,
if he parks for a few days his tyres go flat on the bottom and rattle the beegeesus out of the patrol
till they go "round" again, just a thought

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi Guys

I took the GU in today instead of tomorrow. Well here goes-- My GU has all its original things since factory so nothing has ever been changed. After a long test drive it is the conclusion that I have a few problems with my suspension. I need new shockies,coils etc and adjustable this and that so basically you could say i am having a lift kit put in.
I think thats how it is-- you guys have more of an idea than me. I was shown what is being replaced in the front end and told what it was called and why it was being done but as old age creeps in we forget a few things but you guys will know whats involved in a lift kit and what gets replaced.

Anyway is booked in for October 8th so will see how it goes. Shims will be checked --you will all be glad to hear that one and a few other things but basically we will see what happens with new shocks etc and see what diff some adjustment to the steering makes.

Mrs H.

[4bye4]

Yep - new coils and shocks. They are possibly talking an adjustable drag link but if you are going standard or up to 2" (50)mm lift you don't need it. Sometimes if your suspension is worn out, just putting new standard springs and shocks gives a 1" or more lift.
When they are doing it, ask them to check the coil towers for cracks or damage. Get that welded or replaced while they are doing the lift.

[Robo]

After reading all the threads on how much trouble each nissan owner is having and having been there done that.
Owning 3 different patrol over the yrs mk,mq & gu and each had same problem.
NEW Bearings,tyres& many balances,wheels/rims, shocks, tie rods, panhard bushes, nipped up steering box, & 1 deg caster correction per 1" of lift.

Those ebay and other assorted re-branded "hollowed out" style rubber caster bushes are only any good for flex off Rd,
Not on Rd, on Rd to much flex and contributes to wobble.

Non of the above suggested fixed it, right!.
Well if your reading this, then chances are no, it didn't.
Take a look at the wheel alignment readings.
compare your current caster angle Against the std oem angles on spreed sheet from alignment machine.
bet your still out and need more caster adjustment.

Try 1.5 deg caster correction per 1"lift/.
1.5 deg worked every time "for me" after all the usual fixes failed to solve the #@@## wobble.

Removing a kingpin shim only tightens up the spot in the bearings that's worn,
and Over tightens the rest of bearing contact area.
m2cw.

Hope this helps those pulling their hair out.
Oh and badly worn out of round tires & or out of found rims will tend to wobble still, even after my repair has solved the problem.
been there also

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Yep - new coils and shocks. They are possibly talking an adjustable drag link but if you are going standard or up to 2" (50)mm lift you don't need it. Sometimes if your suspension is worn out, just putting new standard springs and shocks gives a 1" or more lift.
When they are doing it, ask them to check the coil towers for cracks or damage. Get that welded or replaced while they are doing the lift.

Hi
Yep only going a 2" lift. It was in the back of my mind that i should have shockies replaced anyway as like I said my GU is all original.Drag link is being fitted and I think it was the casters being adjusted or corrected off centre. ???Whatever i think it angles my diff backwards -- you get the idea. Anyway I am sure Mike will do and check everything as he told me he would. The person i am trusting with my "truck" has been highly recommended over and over and have also been told that if he can't fix it then I'm in deep S****t. I trust that after everything is done, replaced, adjusted that i have a nice smooth ride once again.
Its an expensive exercise-- bit like owning a boat. A thousand here and there but the joy of having it. I wouldn't swap my GU or GQ but i would sell the boat.

Will give a final update once its all been done.

Mrs H. (Ronnie)

[peterbr1]

Good luck Rhonda hope it all works out, do you know what kit your getting Tough Dog, Old man Emu??? Lift kits are usually always the first mod

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Good luck Rhonda hope it all works out, do you know what kit your getting Tough Dog, Old man Emu??? Lift kits are usually always the first mod

Hi
Not sure- will find out- not into hard core off road mud racing or anything like that so I am sure Mike will put on what is most suited to my vehicle. These guys are renowned for top quality workmanship so i have faith they will use top quality parts.

Will let you know.

Ronnie

[peterbr1]

Ok cheers, you'll be amazed with the handling once its done.

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Ok cheers, you'll be amazed with the handling once its done.

I will be so disappointed if the work i am having done doesn't fix my problem. Reckon i will cry as its driving me nuts. Ok to drive around town but the highway is murder. Well the Truck is waiting patiently at the mechanics for work to commence tomorrow morning. Guess I will find out tomorrow Arvo what the verdict is.
Fingers crossed.

Mrs H

[peterbr1]

Good luck hope it works for you oh also I did what Robo stated the caster correction didn't work I can prove it with pics if you like, just check if they are the big bore shocks 40odd mm I think; they just last longer and make the car handle better. Oh also mention to your mechanic to not to forget to raise the proportioning valve spring on the rear diff 2" for a 2" lift otherwise the front brakes will work much harder than the rear and will eventually warp.

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi

Well I didn't go for a lift kit-main reason is i want my truck to remain original,stock standard. new shocks, springs, tie rod end boot, centralised steering box, all suspension bushes checked, Tyres balanced again etc, king pin bearings,wheel bearings and everything else checked and all is good---

BUT I still get up to around 98 k's and it goes again. I am ready to cry. So disappointed i still have this problem. The steering wheel shakes from side to side --its like holding onto a vibrator and then the whole cab seems to shake also. So new suspension, new steering damper, new tyres, wheel alignment and everything else I've mentioned and its still there.
What to do next is beyond me. The only thing i can think of is it is in the steering itself. Might be something worn out that is causing it to vibrate like it does. Funny thing is it is not constant - rather intermittent and if i speed up then slow down it seems to help it. Well so much for the suspension idea--looks like its back to the drawing board and round 2 coming up.

Mrs H

[Ben-e-boy]

What is the castor set at?

[peterbr1]

I sent you a PM

[jack180]

Hi

Well I didn't go for a lift kit-main reason is i want my truck to remain original,stock standard. new shocks, springs, tie rod end boot, centralised steering box, all suspension bushes checked, Tyres balanced again etc, king pin bearings,wheel bearings and everything else checked and all is good---

BUT I still get up to around 98 k's and it goes again. I am ready to cry. So disappointed i still have this problem. The steering wheel shakes from side to side --its like holding onto a vibrator and then the whole cab seems to shake also. So new suspension, new steering damper, new tyres, wheel alignment and everything else I've mentioned and its still there.
What to do next is beyond me. The only thing i can think of is it is in the steering itself. Might be something worn out that is causing it to vibrate like it does. Funny thing is it is not constant - rather intermittent and if i speed up then slow down it seems to help it. Well so much for the suspension idea--looks like its back to the drawing board and round 2 coming up.

Mrs H

Everything you describe was the symptoms of my car - my steering shake came on suddenly and was severe.
You mention the king pin bearings.
Did they just check them?
How did they check them - just a manual inspection looking in the plates from above and below?, Or just wiggled the wheel and said it was ok?
Did they replace them?
If they just checked them and then reassembled did they put the original shims back in or leave them out?

In my case, after i checked everything head to toe, including balancing, alignment and bushes, i then took the shims off the top and bottom of the kingpin plates, and the vibration was gone.
It tightened up the play.

If the original shims are still there, and they left the original kingpin bearings in place, i would remove the shims and then test.
Nothing hurt by doing this, you can always put them back.

If you don't know what im referring too have a look at this video on youtube and watch it until they get to the shims part.
In the video the refer to it as the swivel hub bearing shims
view from 2.10 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BtdFmyFv9s

This fixed solved my issue and it has not returned.

[jack180]

this is another good video on the same subject and explains it well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPLgglRbDF0

[Mrs Ronnieh]

this is another good video on the same subject and explains it well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPLgglRbDF0

Hi
yes i have seen these videos and all is good with the truck at present.
Thanks for the info.

Mrs H

[peterbr1]

Hi Mrs H just wondering how things are progressing

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi Mrs H just wondering how things are progressing

Hi
I haven't done anymore to the truck this week. Actually have been waiting all week for mick (Mechanic) to call me back after I let them know as soon as I got home there was no improvement to things after a new suspension etc but no contact from him. Seems its take my money and run there. Not happy at all with the customer Service .

This is what my gut is telling me--new king pin bearings and shims. Rather them replaced than taken out. I know it won't hurt anything to remove them but would feel better having them there. Everything on my Truck is original from new so its understandable that things wear so I feel no harm in having them replaced along with the wheel bearings while I 'm going. At least I know myself then they are in good nick.
This is what I am getting done next so will let you know what the verdict is.

Mrs H (Ronnie)

[peterbr1]

That's up to you me personally I wouldn't it wont need it just remove the shims, oh and have you noticed over 1700 hits to this thread wow lots of views

[BigRAWesty]

Hi
I haven't done anymore to the truck this week. Actually have been waiting all week for mick (Mechanic) to call me back after I let them know as soon as I got home there was no improvement to things after a new suspension etc but no contact from him. Seems its take my money and run there. Not happy at all with the customer Service .

This is what my gut is telling me--new king pin bearings and shims. Rather them replaced than taken out. I know it won't hurt anything to remove them but would feel better having them there. Everything on my Truck is original from new so its understandable that things wear so I feel no harm in having them replaced along with the wheel bearings while I 'm going. At least I know myself then they are in good nick.
This is what I am getting done next so will let you know what the verdict is.

Mrs H (Ronnie)
Lots of information on this on here. Unfortunately it could be may things..
A few little tricks to try.
Tighten wheel bearings and.go for a spin..
if no good try greasing each rod one by one and take it for a spin after each one.
The grease will short term pack any slop..
If it still wobbles try removing the shims on king pin bearings and go for a spin.
If it's still there replace the shims, and unfortunately that's the end of the free checks.
If you do all that and it still shakes I'd. Start with bushes.. Panhard rod bush is the most likely culprit.
And what makes it a right pita is if rear bushes are worn it can affect the wobbles to..

[Graelin]

After one year of trying lots of things mine is now cured. It's a 2006 with around 185,000 when this started.
At 80 kph the shake was violent, felt like a seventies motorcycle having a tank slapper.

First was a new Panhard Rod. Then many wheel balances including on the car. Wheel alignment. Two new tyres on the front. Goodyear Wranglers, standard size. Only bought these because the spare was new one.

Then New Swivel Hub and wheel bearings. It still wobbled.

Every single bush in the front end replaced not at the same time and was trial and nothing had cured it. By this stage over $2,000 spent and it still wobbled.

Took the new front tyres off had that done maybe 10,000 km and they had worn so badly that he right hand one would not stand up. When rolled on the floor the tyres went in circles in opposing direction. So in effect they were fighting each other, probably caused by the worn parts.

Put the rear Bridgestone tyres on the front and it drives perfectly. A wheel aligner with a good reputation and Patrol owner claims its the tyres. He has found stiff side wall tyres work best.

So that was my journey and now very happy! If there are problems maybe try other tyres or check if they run across the work shop floor in a straight line.

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Lots of information on this on here. Unfortunately it could be may things..
A few little tricks to try.
Tighten wheel bearings and.go for a spin..
if no good try greasing each rod one by one and take it for a spin after each one.
The grease will short term pack any slop..
If it still wobbles try removing the shims on king pin bearings and go for a spin.
If it's still there replace the shims, and unfortunately that's the end of the free checks.
If you do all that and it still shakes I'd. Start with bushes.. Panhard rod bush is the most likely culprit.
And what makes it a right pita is if rear bushes are worn it can affect the wobbles to..

Hi
there has been plenty of good info on here. I will run down what has been done so far:

New Panhard Rod bushes. New tyres all round, fitted and balanced. New Steering Damper, New shock Absorbers, new spring coils all round. Steering adjustment. All tie rods, steering arms--anything that is underneath has been thoroughly removed and or checked. Wheel bearings are almost new, King pins supposedly fine but this is my next job-- for my own piece of mind they are being replaced. also shims.

If that doesn't work then a match might be cheaper.

Mrs H

[BigRAWesty]

Pull a shim from the king pin side, top and bottom, one each side and re tighten. See if that fixes the issue..
If it does then bearings need doing but just remeber where the shims go for when you re install..

You could also try tightening the steering box.
On the top you'll see a nut and thread. Crack the nut and tighten the thread a little then re tighten the nut.
Don't wind in to much or it will bind up

[Clunk]

Pull a shim from the king pin sides either top or bottom, one each side and re tighten. See if that fixes the issue..
If it does then bearings need doing but just remeber where the shims go for when you re install..

You could also try tightening the steering box.
On the top you'll see a nut and thread. Crack the nut and tighten the thread a little then re tighten the nut.
Don't wind in to much or it will bind up
When taking shims out, aren't you supposed to remove from top and bottom?

[BigRAWesty]

When taking shims out, aren't you supposed to remove from top and bottom?
Um. Not sure. Now thinking about it it's probably best to keep everything centeral. .

[Mrs Ronnieh]

When taking shims out, aren't you supposed to remove from top and bottom?

Think you are meant to take both out.

[jack180]

Think you are meant to take both out.

must take top and bottom out for even pressure.
10,000k since i took mine out, and not a hint of the return of the death wobbles....

[peterbr1]

Hi Mrs H just wondering if you had a chance to take those shims yet

[JoeG]

Quick warning if you tighten the screw on the steering box make sure the wheels are straight ahead or you will find it jams when returning to straight ahead
It always must have a wisker of free play
Regards
Joe

[PullsyJr]

must take top and bottom out for even pressure.
10,000k since i took mine out, and not a hint of the return of the death wobbles....

So my GU Patrol is doing the same wobble thing between 80-90kph. I've spent some time trying to figure out if it's the exact speed that causes it or not by driving at a constant speed along a flat road. It appears that it will start at maybe 82kph, but then remain for as long as you're ±8kph. Then it will start up again anywhere in that range. It's weird. If it always started at (say) 82kph then that might be significant, but it seems more to be about setting up the conditions once then always suffering the problem. Maybe I'm just over-analysing the issue.

--

Anyway, so it's going to a wheel balance on Saturday. As one mechanic said, "start cheap and work up from there." I like the cut of his jib.

I then found the videos that Jack180 linked to, and doing some reading, there are people with dire warnings about taking out the king pin shims. Now I don't want to cause expensive problems to happen in my car so I'm wary (though keen because free is such a great price). Has anyone removed the shims and actually had problems? Or are the warnings just precautionary "worst case" scenarios? 10,000k is good, but how are things after 50-100k or more?

Cheers
Luke

[peterbr1]

So my GU Patrol is doing the same wobble thing between 80-90kph. I've spent some time trying to figure out if it's the exact speed that causes it or not by driving at a constant speed along a flat road. It appears that it will start at maybe 82kph, but then remain for as long as you're ±8kph. Then it will start up again anywhere in that range. It's weird. If it always started at (say) 82kph then that might be significant, but it seems more to be about setting up the conditions once then always suffering the problem. Maybe I'm just over-analysing the issue.

--

Anyway, so it's going to a wheel balance on Saturday. As one mechanic said, "start cheap and work up from there." I like the cut of his jib.

I then found the videos that Jack180 linked to, and doing some reading, there are people with dire warnings about taking out the king pin shims. Now I don't want to cause expensive problems to happen in my car so I'm wary (though keen because free is such a great price). Has anyone removed the shims and actually had problems? Or are the warnings just precautionary "worst case" scenarios? 10,000k is good, but how are things after 50-100k or more?

Cheers
Luke

The problems people say,,,, there are none, the only people mostly, who say there are problems with removing the shims are 4x4 mechanics, they know its a design fault with Nissans and Jeeps and are keen to make an easy buck, the wobble is caused from the front tail shaft, the long and short axles and the swivel hubs, the shims are a preloader more shims loose steering less shims tight steering, Nissan make it loose deliberately for comfort, I've been doing this mod for years and every major service (before a long trip) I check the king pin bearings and never once found any problems (Just out of curiosity what are the dire warnings) Still though im no expert so its up to you. The creator of this post 'who sounds like such a lovely person' spent a fortune trying to get rid of the "dreaded GU wobbles" her car is stock standard and guess what, it still wobbles and the mechanic is never to be heard from again. Something to be learnt perhaps. My 4 GUs I've owned in the past and now have all wobbled, so 45min in the garage, all fixed.
--

[PullsyJr]

That's cool. I'm getting a lot of comments like yours (and it is definitely appreciated). It's the flip side of wailing doom that worries me. Though I suspect you may be right - those professing the terrible nature of no shims are the ones who might be losing money over it.

And to be honest, unless someone admits that their [insert part here] broke because the shims were removed, my mind is pretty made up. I'm just cautious enough to give some benefit of the doubt to the nay-sayers.

Thanks for the comments. It's good to see you've had no issues at all with it.

[peterbr1]

No probs mate, id even pull them out before the balance, just to sus it out.

[BillsGU]

Welllll ............... reading through all this, I had the same problem with mine some time ago. I always buy my tyres from the same tyre outlet and then have them rotated by my usual mechanic when I get a service. One time when he rotated them he also balanced them and after that I got the dreaded wobbles. I took the car back to the mechanic and he said the balance must be out and I stood there watching him for over an hour as he tried to balance the front wheels. His machine came up with all sorts of odd readings. He finally finished but when I took the car out on the highway the wobbles were back. I took the Patrol to my tyre place and they balanced the tyres in no time and the wobbles went away. I asked the tyre guy (a long time friend of mine) why this happened. He said a lot of mechanics and even some tyre places have balance machines that are fine for normal passenger tyres but are useless on wider and heavier 4WD and truck tyres. He told me his machine cost him many thousands of dollars and it is suitable for the larger 4WD and truck tyres.

Not saying your problem is the same - but I have mentioned this to other Patrol owners that I know and they have gone to a tyre dealer that specialises in truck and 4WD tyres and their problem has gone away as well. It's a cheap thing to try before you spend lots more money.

[Ben-e-boy]

Pulling the shims out just adds preload on the bearing, it's a bandaid fix, just adding resistance to the steering system.

The first thing that should be checked is the castor. It needs to be between 2.5-3 degrees. That is a very small working tolerance.

[peterbr1]

Pulling the shims out just adds preload on the bearing, it's a bandaid fix, just adding resistance to the steering system.

The first thing that should be checked is the castor. It needs to be between 2.5-3 degrees. That is a very small working tolerance.

Yep done the castor correction when the car was lifted, still wobbled, its not a Band-Aid fix its the only fix nothings else works read this post in its entirety Mrs h had done this she practically had a front end rebuilt inc. new standard springs its a design fault from Nissan go on YouTube and do a search your trying to tell me all these cars need their castor corrected and with over 2000 hits to this post there is some reason why they are reading it, how many of these people have the wobbles 100 200 even, with castor issues I don't think so

[Clunk]

Yep done the castor correction when the car was lifted, still wobbled, its not a Band-Aid fix its the only fix nothings else works read this post in its entirety Mrs h had done this she practically had a front end rebuilt inc. new standard springs its a design fault from Nissan go on YouTube and do a search your trying to tell me all these cars need their castor corrected and with over 2000 hits to this post there is some reason why they are reading it, how many of these people have the wobbles 100 200 even, with castor issues I don't think so
Not me, only panhard new bushes required but then again I have a mighty GQ not a GUrly GU [emoji8]

[PullsyJr]

I'll get the tyre folks to check the camber while the car is in the shop. The bushes all seem ok, but I will also go over them again.

Thanks for the comments so far, and apologies for taking over the thread.

[Ben-e-boy]

Yep done the castor correction when the car was lifted, still wobbled, its not a Band-Aid fix its the only fix nothings else works read this post in its entirety Mrs h had done this she practically had a front end rebuilt inc. new standard springs its a design fault from Nissan go on YouTube and do a search your trying to tell me all these cars need their castor corrected and with over 2000 hits to this post there is some reason why they are reading it, how many of these people have the wobbles 100 200 even, with castor issues I don't think so

Re read my post.... I said THE FIRST THING THAT SHOULD BE CHECKED IS CASTOR.

I have read this thread. I asked what the castor was set at... no reply, so it to me it hasnt been checked and documented

Again in my other post I said that there very small working tolerance.

How do you know it was correct in the first place? No use throwing castor correction in if you dont know what it was. How can it be corrected of you dont know what to correct? Do you think that the radius arm mounts both chassis and axle are 100% correct to exacting tolerances every time on the 100's of thousands of patrols ever built on a large scale production line? No way... patrols aren't that well built.

The fact is, that the wobbles are a direct byproduct of castor angle/king pinin inclination, a reduction in castor angle reduces the tyres contact patch with the ground, therefor reducing the stability of the steering system.

Thats why I stand by my "bandaid fix" comment as removing shims does not change the incination of the king pin.

While we are here. I too have the wobbles, I bought them home last week end from my trip to landcruiser park. It happens under breaking. Easy fix.
I have elongated the front bolt hole on the radius arm axle mount, every time I break, the front diff rotates forward, reducing my castor angle, thus reducing the size of tyre's contact patch with the ground and stability in my steering....Bam......wobbles. When i get some lathe time I'll turn some washers from a chunk of 4140 I have, set the castor close to 3 degrees and drive out without the wobbles. Its not the first time I have had the wobbles and it wont be the last

I'm not interested in watching a video on youtube on bandaid fixes. I would rather learn about suspension and steering engineering so I have an understanding as to why. But each to their own I guess

[peterbr1]

Not me, only panhard new bushes required but then again I have a mighty GQ not a GUrly GU [emoji8]

LoL.........

[peterbr1]

[QUOTE=Ben-e-boy;642000]Re read my post.... I said THE FIRST THING THAT SHOULD BE CHECKED IS CASTOR.

I have read this thread. I asked what the castor was set at... no reply, so it to me it hasnt been checked and documented

Again in my other post I said that there very small working tolerance.

How do you know it was correct in the first place? No use throwing castor correction in if you dont know what it was. How can it be corrected of you dont know what to correct? Do you think that the radius arm mounts both chassis and axle are 100% correct to exacting tolerances every time on the 100's of thousands of patrols ever built on a large scale production line? No way... patrols aren't that well built.

The fact is, that the wobbles are a direct byproduct of castor angle/king pinin inclination, a reduction in castor angle reduces the tyres contact patch with the ground, therefor reducing the stability of the steering system.

Thats why I stand by my "bandaid fix" comment as removing shims does not change the incination of the king pin.

While we are here. I too have the wobbles, I bought them home last week end from my trip to landcruiser park. It happens under breaking. Easy fix.
I have elongated the front bolt hole on the radius arm axle mount, every time I break, the front diff rotates forward, reducing my castor angle, thus reducing the size of tyre's contact patch with the ground and stability in my steering....Bam......wobbles. When i get some lathe time I'll turn some washers from a chunk of 4140 I have, set the castor close to 3 degrees and drive out without the wobbles. Its not the first time I have had the wobbles and it wont be the last

I'm not interested in watching a video on youtube on bandaid fixes. I would rather learn about suspension and steering engineering so I have an understanding as to why. But each to their own I guess.

wow you've solved it you should be rich what do you drive by the way?

[peterbr1]

LoL.........

oh and wobbles under braking is warped brake rotors....engineering lol

[the evil twin]

8 pages ... and not one mention of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes.

Time to settle in with a bag of Popcorn methinks

[Ben-e-boy]

oh and wobbles under braking is warped brake rotors....engineering lol

No it isnt, they are'nt warped

[Ben-e-boy]

wow you've solved it you should be rich what do you drive by the way?

A patrol....

[Clunk]

8 pages ... and not one mention of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes.

Time to settle in with a bag of Popcorn methinks
Was just about to say the same

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/11/104.jpg

[peterbr1]

A patrol....

LoL GQ or a GU???

[mudski]

8 pages ... and not one mention of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes.

Time to settle in with a bag of Popcorn methinks

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i23/optimus_photo/MichaelJacksonPopcorn.gif (http://s68.photobucket.com/user/optimus_photo/media/MichaelJacksonPopcorn.gif.html)

[the evil twin]

LoL GQ or a GU???

You forgot P60, MK, MQ and Y62... just sayin' is all
But I betcha he drives a white one

[peterbr1]

You forgot P60, MK, MQ and Y62... just sayin' is all
But I betcha he drives a white one

LOL this my show go get your own go on now git

[Clunk]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/11/105.jpg

[peterbr1]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/11/105.jpg

cmon kids get to de chowper

[Ben-e-boy]

LOL this my show go get your own go on now git

Your show... that's right I clearly didn't realise, sorry for entering the thread and raining on your parade

[PullsyJr]

Wow, this escalated quickly. Is this normal for this forum?

peterbr1, I won't have time to pull the shims before the wheel balance. If that fixes the problem (and I'm not expecting it to) then I won't have to do it.

BillsGU, I'm going to Bob Jane's who do 4WD tyres, so I'll have a word to them about making sure the balance is done on the right machine. Thanks for the tip.

Ben-e-boy, I'll get the tyre guys to check the castor (I incorrectly called it the camber in my last post). Thanks for the tip, also.

However, as I said in my opening post, the dire warnings ("...just adds preload on the bearing, it's a bandaid fix...") are what I hear from a variety of people, but I have yet to learn of a single person who has actually had problems caused by removal of the shims. The amount of people who must have done this fix should have resulted in at least one or two reported failures. I'm trying to hear about them.

Please be aware that I'm not trying to be antagonistic. Warnings are cool: I like them. They mean I can assess a risk. But if that risk has no evidence of occurring then the warning is ultimately one that has a very low, or even zero, priority. This is a standard risk assessment outcome (https://www.google.com.au/search?q=risk+assessment+matrix), if you've ever needed to do this sort of thing.

[Winnie]

Wow, this escalated quickly. Is this normal for this forum?

No mate it is not normal

[4bye4]

Wow, this escalated quickly. Is this normal for this forum?

No but it's heaps of fun.

[PullsyJr]

Ok, fair enough. Crawling through the forums I'm not seeing this sort of... ahem... banter all that much. But like everywhere on the internet it's hard to tell.

[JoeG]

Hi
Just removed the shims from my 2010 Patrol
no shake for the first 60,000km
But fitted new tyres and it started, put the old rims and tyres back on and still there?
So did caster correction bushes greased &adjusted wheel bearings, new shock new steering damper Wheel alignment and Caster check all ok but shimmy still there.
So lifted front end and placed on stands removed wheels.
checked resistance full lock to full lock.
water blasted off all the muck, then loosened all crews for the king pin bearing carriers
Placed jack under the hub and slight nip removed lowwer bearing inspected and greased then removed shimm and refitted
same for top bearing tested lock to lock and no difference.
Whilst inspecting noticed the top L/H bearing had grease acoross the bearing load surface all others shiny
Test drive and shimmy gone
So will plan to re grease and re test every 20,000 km from now on
Happy with result
regards
Joe

[peterbr1]

Your show... that's right I clearly didn't realise, sorry for entering the thread and raining on your parade
Apology accepted good boy ben-e Oh I was only kidding............about the show thing it was aimed at Mudski and Clunk for fun

[peterbr1]

Ok, fair enough. Crawling through the forums I'm not seeing this sort of... ahem... banter all that much. But like everywhere on the internet it's hard to tell.

Sorry bout that Pullsyjr, just hate it when people come and say things like band aid fix's and the like, then start blurting off crap like lathe time etc etc it just sounds like they love the sound of their own voice, I would have been more sensible had he show a little respect and discretion to this issue im only trying to help, I was mostly being sarcastic to the 'ahem...banter' so once again I do apologise.

[PullsyJr]

Nah, no apologies required. I understand the frustration. I'm also partial to some verbal ("textual" sounds rude) sparring. And that bag of popcorn... Oh lord, I need it now!

[peterbr1]

Nah, no apologies required. I understand the frustration. I'm also partial to some verbal ("textual" sounds rude) sparring. And that bag of popcorn... Oh lord, I need it now!

Cool, cheers mate. Popcorn is fattening isn't it lol

[mudski]

Cool, cheers mate. Popcorn is fattening isn't it lol
I hate the shoit!.... lol
As for my Patrol this is what i did to remove the wobbles which i had a bugger of a time. Tighten my wheel bearings. Whilst the wheels felt good on the stands only just the slightest of movement. So i nipped them up and all has been great since.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Mrs Ronnieh]

Hi All
Its been a little while since I started this thread and nice to see everyone being so helpful and providing some good suggestions and ideas.

Well I am very sad to say that alot has been done with no result.

My discovery was that i put it in to have the shims taken out just to try it and Blow me over with a feather--There wasn't any. At some stage they had been removed so obviously having no shims didn't help my problem. I have since had the king Pin bearings replaced and new shims put in top and bottom. Also every bush etc replaced and everything checked from top to bottom.
After i had the last lot of work it was fine for about a week, with only a slight vibration but now it has come back; maybe not quite so bad but its back.

Apart from tearing my hair out and buying a can of petrol I don't know what else to try.

Am thinking I might go to a steering specialist -- just worth a shot as everything else i have tried has had little or no success. Thinking of contacting Nissan and making it known I am not happy jan and have alot of patrol owners with the same issue. I know they know of it but it can't hurt to raise the isssue again.

Mrs H

[threedogs]

What tyres are you running, might be time to look at maybe running some
balancing beads inside the tyre. I'm not a fan but others may be able to help

[mudski]

This probably has been checked but this solved my wobble issues for good. Even when running 35s.
where the inner wheel bearing sits on the stub axle it had worn away at the section where the seal runs by maybe .5mm. Kinda hard to explain... i have my old stub axles if you want a pic.
But i had the wobbles pretty bad. If first changed one side, not due to the wobbles but because the wheel bearings would work lose. I would nip them up, then i would check the wheels say a few weeks later and it was lose. I noticed the wear groove so i replaced this side. I did the other side maybe six months later as it was also worn. And ever since. I havent had to retighten the wheel bearings and the wobbles have gone.
Might help, might not.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[jcwbute]

I had the same wobble at around 80 to 90kms when I bought the gu a few months ago and thru research on this forum systematically started looking at things to change but thought I would start with springs and shocks as originals were sagging and guess what wobbles are gone but one thing I did notice when taking wheels off to do Spring change was a lot of mud road grime on inside of rims in deep on standard steel 16in rims so I broke out the gerni and cleaned them up so all the gunk was gone
Hey something easy to check and it worked for me


Get out and get it dirty

[Mrs Ronnieh]

I had the same wobble at around 80 to 90kms when I bought the gu a few months ago and thru research on this forum systematically started looking at things to change but thought I would start with springs and shocks as originals were sagging and guess what wobbles are gone but one thing I did notice when taking wheels off to do Spring change was a lot of mud road grime on inside of rims in deep on standard steel 16in rims so I broke out the gerni and cleaned them up so all the gunk was gone
Hey something easy to check and it worked for me


Get out and get it dirty

Hi
had all springs and shocks done. All bushes, panhards etc, new steering damper, new tyres fitted and balanced, wheel alignment, all bearings and everything checked and double checked. As for dirt and mud my GU has never been off road or on the beach. Its certainly original. I have standard rims and tyres also. no big chunkies or lifts.

Mrs h

[Chimo]

Hi Ronnie

PM sent

Chimo

[Chimo]

Hi Ronnie

Hows your front end!!!!???

Cheers
Chimo

[Ryank]

usually bushes somewhere

[Robo]

Welllll ............... reading through all this, I had the same problem with mine some time ago. I always buy my tyres from the same tyre outlet and then have them rotated by my usual mechanic when I get a service. One time when he rotated them he also balanced them and after that I got the dreaded wobbles. I took the car back to the mechanic and he said the balance must be out and I stood there watching him for over an hour as he tried to balance the front wheels. His machine came up with all sorts of odd readings. He finally finished but when I took the car out on the highway the wobbles were back. I took the Patrol to my tyre place and they balanced the tyres in no time and the wobbles went away. I asked the tyre guy (a long time friend of mine) why this happened. He said a lot of mechanics and even some tyre places have balance machines that are fine for normal passenger tyres but are useless on wider and heavier 4WD and truck tyres. He told me his machine cost him many thousands of dollars and it is suitable for the larger 4WD and truck tyres.

Not saying your problem is the same - but I have mentioned this to other Patrol owners that I know and they have gone to a tyre dealer that specialises in truck and 4WD tyres and their problem has gone away as well. It's a cheap thing to try before you spend lots more money.

Yep that's why some go for the beads due to the fact local balancing machine cant do the job properly in the first place.

[Robo]

[QUOTE=Ben-e-boy;642000]Re read my post.... I said THE FIRST THING THAT SHOULD BE CHECKED IS CASTOR.

I have read this thread. I asked what the castor was set at... no reply, so it to me it hasnt been checked and documented

Again in my other post I said that there very small working tolerance.

How do you know it was correct in the first place? No use throwing castor correction in if you dont know what it was. How can it be corrected of you dont know what to correct? Do you think that the radius arm mounts both chassis and axle are 100% correct to exacting tolerances every time on the 100's of thousands of patrols ever built on a large scale production line? No way... patrols aren't that well built.

The fact is, that the wobbles are a direct byproduct of castor angle/king pinin inclination, a reduction in castor angle reduces the tyres contact patch with the ground, therefor reducing the stability of the steering system.

Thats why I stand by my "bandaid fix" comment as removing shims does not change the incination of the king pin.

While we are here. I too have the wobbles, I bought them home last week end from my trip to landcruiser park. It happens under breaking. Easy fix.
I have elongated the front bolt hole on the radius arm axle mount, every time I break, the front diff rotates forward, reducing my castor angle, thus reducing the size of tyre's contact patch with the ground and stability in my steering....Bam......wobbles. When i get some lathe time I'll turn some washers from a chunk of 4140 I have, set the castor close to 3 degrees and drive out without the wobbles. Its not the first time I have had the wobbles and it wont be the last

I'm not interested in watching a video on youtube on bandaid fixes. I would rather learn about suspension and steering engineering so I have an understanding as to why. But each to their own I guess.

wow you've solved it you should be rich what do you drive by the way?

Agree x10.
Removing a shim "can" tighten things up.
"BUT the bearing is worn unevenly" so it is only a bandaid at best.
If ya remove a bearing cap and then wipe the bearing cup surface clean, now take a look at it, you'll notice wear spots, this is where the rollers in the bearing sits while the steering is in straight ahead position, the marks are low spot on the cups surface.
This is where the play is, and removing shims only pushes the bearings into these low spots but the rest of the bearing is now over tight so hence a bandaid.
Over tight bearings will only damage themselves at an accelerated rate hence again bandaid.

The point that has also been touched on is mass production.
Not every chassie leaves the factory the same there will always be some degree of misalignment during assembly add to that years of wear n tear creates
different issues and more or less repair to fix it.
This is why I previously touched on get a print out of "check alignment machines readings for all angles etc" as trying to fix something with hit and miss is
is very frustrating.
Another reason I mentioned, 1 degree correction per inch of lift rule of thumb may not work, get and check alignment figures and go
from there.
Yes 1 " per inch of lift has worked for some, but as I said not every chassie is the same.
Get alignment figures first, before you spend your hard earned money, that being said yes you can fix the obviously worn panhard and trailing arm bushes etc first, but caster correction needs to be a known figure before you waste money setting the wrong angle if the book states you need x amount of angle, setting it near is only near, and not correct and will cause further issues ie tyres wearing uneven again! and the wobble will return.

As for the car pulling to the left, well Japan has much flatter rds than we do and chassie design and testing is done on those rds in Japan, add to that chassie miss alignment, wear n tear etc is the reason.
The idea of they are designed to pull to the left is just trying to explain why they are doing it and not taking into account the camber of our rds leaning to the left more than the oem design and test surfaces in the first place.

[the evil twin]

My beloved Ute started getting the wobbles about 6 months ago.
Has just under 500K of Ks on it
Can't remove the shims 'cause it doesn't have any.

Took the plates off and rotated them 180 degrees.

Wobbles gone... for now... prob be good for, meah, 50K give or take.

Next time the wobbles resurface I'll do the Bearings etc.