Dash Warning lights at the same time. Help.

[riverdeep]

Today whilst driving my 04 GU three warning lights simultaneously lit up on my dash. The battery symbol (far right) exclamation in a circle (normally hand brake) and the orange Sub Tank (far left) lights all came on together. Very strange any thoughts or suggestions? Maybe alternator strangeness? help appreciated.

[my third 256]

sounds like an earthing strap has failed try putting a new one in

[Winnie]

Yeah when an alternator is failing it will do funny things with the dash lights.
Are you able to test it?

[Cuppa]

Yeah when an alternator is failing it will do funny things with the dash lights.
Are you able to test it?

Yep, I’ve experienced the same on another vehicle. It could just be that the brushes need replacing. That was the problem with mine & new brushes fixed the odd dash light issues.

[Winnie]

Yes mine had the diodes fail, so it would charge fine but drain the battery very quickly when not running.
I had strange goings on with my dash lights too.

[the evil twin]

That combo of lights is the classic symptom of a shagged Alternator, supply or sense wiring.

They come on and stay on when the Alternator has low/no output.

Check the voltage at the battery terminals or Alternator with the engine running and if it is below 13.8 ish then that will be the problem

[Winnie]

That combo of lights is the classic symptom of a shagged Alternator, supply or sense wiring.

They come on and stay on when the Alternator has low/no output.

Check the voltage at the battery terminals or Alternator with the engine running and if it is below 13.8 ish then that will be the problem

Funny though as mine would only come on at high revs.

[4bye4]

Funny though as mine would only come on at high revs.

As a veteran of two shagged alternators, I agree with the above. Watch out if you are getting the lights come on at high revs as stated by Winnie, in my case it was the regulator not working and the charge getting up to 19volts. Shagged the battery as well, but I had no option as I had to drive it home. If you have auto trans its a bugger as you have an electric interlock on the shifter. No battery, can't get it out of park.

[threedogs]

Last time all the dash lights came on I had a major malfunction with the Alternator.
As for just changing brushes I think the comutator needs to be machined as well
other wise you may only be charging using the edges of the brushes, which may charge
at a higher than normal rate of charge.
I now have 2 Baintech volt gauges on the centre facia so at a glance I can see if
charge rate is eratic

[Robo]

That combo of lights is the classic symptom of a shagged Alternator, supply or sense wiring.

They come on and stay on when the Alternator has low/no output.

Check the voltage at the battery terminals or Alternator with the engine running and if it is below 13.8 ish then that will be the problem..

Problem --dash lights, ALT GLOW & WATER TRAP, would come on for a bit and then go out.
So I cleaned up the slip ring etc and new bearings problem went away.
(Cant recall voltage)

Later problem returned,
symptoms---- dash lights on again & engle fridge won't run now, only getting about 9 volts load tested power @ fridge.
Ok, power supply, voltage drop @ fridge.
Now only getting only 12.3 volts via alt charge post directly to battery earth or chassis with a multi meter.
Humm ok the alternator must be shagged,me thinks.

Stripped alternator again, brushes look suss, heavy carbon deposits on one side causing brushes to stick.
so going by thread, slip ring needs machining correctly and new brushes.
Gave a quick tart up, but voltage still low & fridge wont run still.
Still only 12.3 v @ alt again.

stuff it, go the whole hog, new alternator.
Now only 12.86 volts same test.

So I now assume either the battery has an issue or wires as mentioned.
At a glance @ the alt, wires looks ok doesn't look broken or corroded.
about to check battery with hydrometer,
but thinks it's alright, starting isn't an issue, car starts just fine.
and battery seems to charge ok with my jaycar 15amp smart charger.

What would be the problem I'm looking for with the wires exactly ?.
S wire = feeds battery voltage back to the alternator reg.
L = goes to dash light.
And alternator post wire = charge wire for battery.

Battery reading with hydrometer is ok
pulled sense wire from alt plug looks a good clean connection.
tested ohms reading back to 7.5amp fuse connection has zero resistance.
then test to bat pos terminal zero resistance also.

[the evil twin]

... in amongst all that you did check the fuse, yeah?

[Robo]

Trying to check all connections etc but,
The 2 blue 100 amp fuses in engine bay fuse block don't want to pull out !!.
why not ??

[Robo]

... in amongst all that you did check the fuse, yeah?

yep .
last 2 to go
1 battery f/link.
1 glow plug f/link.
both the blue block types in e/bay.
but can't get em out.

[Robo]

charging battery now,
was about 12.5v @ 87% before hand.
charger in the last 30 min or so, input 15 amps & up to 14v @ 94% charged.
think! I can safely rule out the battery.

[Robo]

Found the alt pos charge wire end link at fuse box.
This white wire joins to black/yellow stripe wire with a nut and bolt.
Resistance of white wire, back to alternator 0 ohms ,good result.
but still can't seem to remove blue 100 amp fuse to check that.
Do these fuses have some sort of clip or have they welded themselves together?.
I have even tried a pair of pliers on em they don't want to budge.

[Robo]

Haha just noticed blue fuse for the charge wire has a bolt either side for the connections.
holding it onto the bottom of the fuse, here goes.

yep thats how you can get em out.
but probing either side will give a reading with the m/meter.

Arhh,now what it all checks out with the multi meter.
pita.

amongst all this I had to fit another radiator due to a third party.
at least came good and split the cost of replacement.
I need a holiday.

[the evil twin]

yep .
last 2 to go
1 battery f/link.
1 glow plug f/link.
both the blue block types in e/bay.
but can't get em out.

So the Alternator sense fuse (7.5 amp) is Ok as is the Warning lamp fuse (10 amp)

What is the resistance from the Black/Yellow junction (where it comes off White) to where it connects to the Sense terminal on the Alternator (should be yellow/Red IIRC)?

[Robo]

So the Alternator sense fuse (7.5 amp) is Ok as is the Warning lamp fuse (10 amp)

What is the resistance from the Black/Yellow junction (where it comes off White) to where it connects to the Sense terminal on the Alternator (should be yellow/Red IIRC)?

Sense 7.5 amp fuse ok.
alt light comes on with ign switch and goes out so that 10 amp should be ok
have checked white & black yellow too battery pos terminal, .1 was max resistance.
Humm have to separate the white and black/yellow and check resistance, but it was ok connected
The black/yellow & sense wire connection yet to find and check.

[Robo]

Looks as if the yellow/red sensor wire is connected via its fuse to the metal buzz bar the black/yellow is connected within the fuse box housing? yes?.
that reads 0 resistance where the 7.5amp fuse insertion point.
so going by all that, presume that when "load" applied with engine actually running is the issue.
& just testing wire resistance isn't picking up on issue ??.

And doubled-tripple checked all fuses are ok

[Robo]

Going to try a jumper cables one at at time, see what happens.

Can someone comment please!
The load wire to dash warning light from alt shouldn't need replacing??
There is also a number of connections for these wires in question.
So maybe the physical connections are the issue and not the oem cables them selves?

For this perceived cable problem--
multi meter "cold cable" resistance readings aren't sufficient compared to real time load?.

[the evil twin]

snip...

Can someone comment please!


I would but my Babel Fish has gone on strike for more money and I can't decipher your posts.

[4bye4]

I would but my Babel Fish has gone on strike for more money and I can't decipher your posts.

You've probably got it in the wrong ear.

[Robo]

Seems the trouble was a dirty connections.
1) on the sense wire at the plug beside fuse box.
2) & where the sense circuit joins the battery power buzz bar within fuse block.

Now have 14.5 volts.
still no fridge power this must be a separate problem.
will run a new 2 core cable as previous owner only had single and earth to body.
thanks for the input evil bro