Front Diff Oil [Archive] - NissanPatrol.com.au Forum

OMFGITZDAV

22nd July 2015, 01:07 PM

Hey guys,
So since Ive had my little Dirt Turtle my partner and I have been fixing it up. 92 GQ Patrol TB42E EFI beast
We have came to doing the Front Diff oil and we checked it and it is a grey sludge... I'm no expert but that is not what it should be...
We also find there is a broken axle seal so we are now changing both front axle bearing and seals and oil but the question i ask you guys is....

How do i get all the grey sludge out from the front diff? Yes just undoing it and draining it will get most out but I need to do a deep clean. Does anyone know of an addative I can add to help flush it all out.. Need most of that shit out so i does not cause any more problems later on down the track after we change the bearing, seals, rotors, break pads and tires....

Help?

Rossco

22nd July 2015, 01:17 PM

Hi mate, I would just flush some fresh oil through first then fill it up. Not sure on any additives you could use maybe others might know. You could always check and do another oil change 1000 k or so down the track if it looks dirty. No way to get it perfectly clean without pulling the centre out which wouldn't be too much more work if the axles are out. I woulnt worry too much the magnet should grab most of the nasty stuff.

MudRunnerTD

22nd July 2015, 11:03 PM

While the axles are out on both ends jack up the short side and leave it for an hour and alot of what your chasing will drain out. As Rossco says though maybe do another oil change after your first off road trip. or just go for a nice drive through some fire trails in 4wd, nothing hard just a cruise to get the front spinning then go home while the oil is warm and dump and refill. Note the front diff centre does not spin unless you are in 4wd.

Everything you need to know is in this thread mate. DIY-CV-and-Swivel-Hub-Rebuild-Thread (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28969-DIY-CV-and-Swivel-Hub-Rebuild-Thread) Any questions ask in that thread.

If your really worried then as Rossco states while the axles are out the 3rd member is just an Unbolt and out it comes. You will need a new gasket for the diff centre if you pull it out though.

dom14

25th July 2015, 01:31 AM

Sounds like you got water in there. Must have sucked in during a water cross when hot.
This is why it's a good idea to fit an after market diff breather kit before crossing water.
I reckon to clear up the crap properly, you either have to pull the axles out or do an extra oil change as advised above.
Obviously a second oil change is lot less trouble than pulling the axles out.
But, if you go to the trouble of pulling the axles out, you will get to lube/fix the hub & wheel bearings, steering knuckle bearings and other parts in the way, which is a good thing for long term peace of mind.
They use the Form a Gasket sealant on the 3rd member.
When i bought the rear diff rebuild kit from Bearing wholesalers, they didn't have the gasket, but a sealant tube.
I decided to buy the factory gasket from Nissan.
I think it's better that way for such an important part of the drive train.
The gap created by the sealant can't be exact like the gasket.
I reckon even a fraction of a milimeter matters, when it comes to drive train.
If I decide to do the transmission in future, I would do the same and stick with the factory gasket. Pro transmissions guys swear buy the sealant gasket, but it's ok for them since they know what they are doing.
Backyard jobs, it's better to stick with the factory gaskets, when it comes to drive train gear.

OMFGITZDAV

27th July 2015, 05:39 PM

Thanks guys for the input.
We have decided to do what MudRunner has done and rebuild. We need to change out Rotors because they are undersized and we are adding new break pads too...
Soooooo may as well give it a full work over while we are at it.
Got this kit offline - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121660745111?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT - Hope it is enough. We have been doing research and found that we have twin piston callipers so we are finding rotors to suit.
Can anyone tell me if the Rear Callipers are Twin piston aswel?

MudRunnerTD

27th July 2015, 10:40 PM

No mate the rears are all singles

dom14

2nd August 2015, 06:05 PM

OMFGITZDAV

5th August 2015, 09:56 PM

So over the weekend my partner and I tackled this job. Wasn't hard at all. The first side took long being the first but the other side went quick. We found that our free wheeling hubs were broken to hell. They were autos so looks like we are upgrading to new manuals.
60322
We had busted seals all through it and rust so good thing we did it when we did or we would of had more problems down the track. 603236032460325
We put new slotted and dimple rotors on the front and back and heavy duty break pads on all as well.. We used some red nulon grease for all the bearings. Waterproof and temp rated. 60326

OMFGITZDAV

5th August 2015, 09:58 PM

But all in all this hasn't fix our problem or the car vibrating loudly as we drive down the highway.... Ugh... Time to do the rear axle n seals to see how they are going.

Clunk

5th August 2015, 10:16 PM

If you're getting front wheel wobble, could well be any of the front end bushes flogged out.
Worn out drive shaft uni joints could cause a spot of vibration.

And seeing the state of your front diffs, its probably a good thing that youre doing the rears too...... might be an idea to get some extended diff breathers too

OMFGITZDAV

6th August 2015, 10:51 AM

The car already has diff breathers on them.
It's not the wobbles it's just when we go from about 80kmh and over the car. I rates loudly. You can even have a conversation in the car it so loud.
We have new wheels and as you can see the front diff has now been cleaned so we are looking at doing the rear.
We checked the drive shaft and that's not loose at all.