TD42 turbo types. Whats what?

[mudski]

O.k SO I think i need to know more about what sorts of turbo's there are for these TD42's otherwise the mechanic will say "yeah mate we'll put on a TD05 bla bla bla" and I'll just say yeah go for it and I would have the faintest in what it is and the difference to others. I know the explanation may get long winded but I think its something I need to know, considering I will be forking out the money for it.
So. What about the flanges too? Theres different flanges too? T3??
As for turbo's themselves I have found.....

TD05H-16G
TD05H-18G and 20G
HT18-2 and -5
Garret Gt 2860 / 2871 / 2876 / 3076

What are differences? This conversion is going to cost me a bomb, I know this. I just don't want to be buying something that I don't need.
The mechanic has already said for me to go a 12mm Injector pump as he reckons 160kw is a good place to be at and a roller bearing turbo is the go. I'm like "Yer o.k???" He said for the extra on the 12mm pump atleast I can get more out of the motor later if I wanted, rather than going 11mm and then finding I need to upgrade to 12mm if I ever wanted more. To be honest, I don't even know what I want in HP related terms. Something more than what I have thats for sure if I'm doing this. Lol
As for intercoolers, I want to stick with top mount. Thats probably another thread in itself....

Thanks.

BTW, if anyone has a 2001 or around that era TD42t Patrol, can I have some pics of your engine bay? I need to find out what parts I am missing for all the bolts stuff. Like the a/c, power steering, hoses and brackets etc etc.

This is going to be a real big headache. I can feel it already.

[Winnie]

I've got a worn out 11mm boost compensated pump and Garrett GTX2863R making 120kW.
I can tow my camper at 110km/h all day long and only lose a little speed up real steep hills.

I need to upgrade the pump but I don't know if I will go 12mm or just get the 11mm worked up.

[threedogs]

What do you intend to use the Patrol for.
mainly towing or weekend stuff or daily driver
or a bit of each???

[mudski]

I've got a worn out 11mm boost compensated pump and Garrett GTX2863R making 120kW.
I can tow my camper at 110km/h all day long and only lose a little speed up real steep hills.

I need to upgrade the pump but I don't know if I will go 12mm or just get the 11mm worked up.
I'm only going by what the mechanic has told me. He thinks 160 is a good figure, not wild but I'll have plenty of punch when I need it.
So you have a GTX2863R. Whats the difference to the other models? Obviously the power output of some sort, but in what way.
I don't wanna go spending more on a turbo than what I need too.

What do you intend to use the Patrol for.
mainly towing or weekend stuff or daily driver
or a bit of each???
Everything.....

[threedogs]

Might want to have a chat with Matt, MR or Stropp
Where are you expecting to get 160kw, is that rear wheel???

[mudski]

Might want to have a chat with Matt, MR or Stropp
Where are you expecting to get 160kw, is that rear wheel???

160kw at the wheels. And no I wasn't expecting this. Lol Thats the figure JPC told me he will build for. He said, we gonna do it, do it right. I have NFI.

[nissannewby]

This would have been much easier on the phone mark lol.

Td05h-**g refers to the comp side. So a 16g has a smaller compressor wheel than the 18 and 20g.

If you want to run a garrett then the same as what winnie has will work for your intended powere level.

Honestly for an off the shelf turbo that will just bolt on and work for your power level you really cant go past a ufi 16g large or 18g.

With the diesel it isnt really peak hp/kw you should be looking at. Its all about the torque.

With the fuel pump you can get 11mm pumps that will support 160kw maybe more but a 12mm is really not working very hard to produce this and leaves room for improvements of up to 200rwkw and towards 800nm.

[threedogs]

Whats a ball park figure you think it will end up costing $15K ? NFI

[mudski]

This would have been much easier on the phone mark lol.

Td05h-**g refers to the comp side. So a 16g has a smaller compressor wheel than the 18 and 20g.

If you want to run a garrett then the same as what winnie has will work for your intended powere level.

Honestly for an off the shelf turbo that will just bolt on and work for your power level you really cant go past a ufi 16g large or 18g.

With the diesel it isnt really peak hp/kw you should be looking at. Its all about the torque.

With the fuel pump you can get 11mm pumps that will support 160kw maybe more but a 12mm is really not working very hard to produce this and leaves room for improvements of up to 200rwkw and towards 800nm.

Matt I will try to ring you this arvo mate.

I am just curious on what the differences are in these turbo's. More so that I can just get a better understanding.
Torque is what I'm after. TBH I'm not really interested in big peak horse power. Well kinda. Lol. Something that will pull my camper like its not even there is what I would like. Unlike now, or before, it was o.k but hit a hill and I'm changing down gears and revving the shite out of the motor just to keep some sort of speed.
The mechanic has recommended 12mm, more so for the room of improvement if I ever wanted it. He reckons for the extra cost from 11mm to 12mm its worth it while we are here. I haven't even spoken about what turbo etc etc yet with the mechanic, we are just working on getting the motor done first.
I have some time to ponder I think. Just trying to get my head around it all....So when it comes to talking to the mechanic about what turbo, I can sort of understand what he will say, rather than just nodding my head. Lol.


Thanks.

[mudski]

Whats a ball park figure you think it will end up costing $15K ? NFI

I'm too scared to even know. It just needs to be done now as I ain't spending another cent on the ZD.

[MudRunnerTD]

This would have been much easier on the phone mark lol.

Td05h-**g refers to the comp side. So a 16g has a smaller compressor wheel than the 18 and 20g.

If you want to run a garrett then the same as what winnie has will work for your intended powere level.

Honestly for an off the shelf turbo that will just bolt on and work for your power level you really cant go past a ufi 16g large or 18g.

With the diesel it isnt really peak hp/kw you should be looking at. Its all about the torque.

With the fuel pump you can get 11mm pumps that will support 160kw maybe more but a 12mm is really not working very hard to produce this and leaves room for improvements of up to 200rwkw and towards 800nm.

Hey Matt,

I am keen as to see this thread evolve as i have very similar questions and keen to maybe do an upgrade on the GUIV. I dont really have this type of knowledge and would be keen as to see what you have to say. let your fingers do the talking mate. Your insight will be appreciated.

I know that there is a comprehensive thread on the other forum but to be honest it is HUGE an a mine field for anyone entering the market. That thread has evolved and is difficult to navigate without reading the novel from the start.

[Ben-e-boy]

Whats a ball park figure you think it will end up costing $15K ? NFI

It depends on far you go. I just spent the best part of 12k on my TD, that does NOT include, the turbo, intercooler, injector pump, manifolds, any bolt ons and the 30+ hours I spent on head porting myself saving alot of money.
Obviously you dont need to do what I have done, but by the time you buy a decent turbo, pump and cooler, you've spent over 5k to start with.

160 rwkw is a great alrounder IMO, when mine was at 152rwkw and approx 530Nm, it would accellerate well, overtake well, hold it's own up hwy hills enough power for play and still return 11.5L /100.

[Winnie]

It depends on far you go. I just spent the best part of 12k on my TD, that does NOT include, the turbo, intercooler, injector pump, manifolds, any bolt ons and the 30+ hours I spent on head porting myself saving alot of money.
Obviously you dont need to do what I have done, but by the time you buy a decent turbo, pump and cooler, you've spent over 5k to start with.

160 rwkw is a great alrounder IMO, when mine was at 152rwkw and approx 530Nm, it would accellerate well, overtake well, hold it's own up hwy hills enough power for play and still return 11.5L /100.
How long until you get it back on the road?

[AB]

I'm also interested and have been paying attention to this thread. I have my front IC set up with 3" piping, 4" snorkel and 3" straight through exhaust ready for an upgrade and after the lockers and ratios are done this is my next project to work towards.

To be honest I have no idea either, I would also be interested in suggested airbox to suit too.

[Winnie]

I'm also interested and have been paying attention to this thread. I have my front IC set up with 3" piping, 4" snorkel and 3" straight through exhaust ready for an upgrade and after the lockers and ratios are done this is my next project to work towards.

To be honest I have no idea either, I would also be interested in suggested airbox to suit too.
Yeah I'm keen for a different air box too... Here's a tip for anybody reading.
Don't buy the patroldocta zd30 lookalike stainless box.

[Rossco]

Haha me too. . . New fuel pump is on the cards fairly soonish, more power wild be nice plus it has a few issues at the mo. Need to do a bit of saving but will need to get onto this.

Anyway looking forward to seeing how your motor build comes along mudski, looks like it should come up well. ☺

[Bigcol]

to give you a comparison Mudski
mine was a N/A 4.2
I could still on 100km/p/h in 4th - maybe even get to 105km/p/h - put it in 5th - and it dropped back to 95km/p/h

I brought a 2006 TD42 that had been hydraulic'd
used the Factory standard Turbo (set at 8Lb) 3" exhaust and the intercooler

now I can cruise at about 110km/p/h with a little extra left - in 5th
I had it Dyno'd at the time - 116Kw - cannot remember the Nm
I started at 88Kw & 256Nm

I have finaly gotten my Gas injection fixed, so I will be taking it to United Fuel Injection to get it tuned and Dyno'd (one day)..........

[mudski]

It depends on far you go. I just spent the best part of 12k on my TD, that does NOT include, the turbo, intercooler, injector pump, manifolds, any bolt ons and the 30+ hours I spent on head porting myself saving alot of money.
Obviously you dont need to do what I have done, but by the time you buy a decent turbo, pump and cooler, you've spent over 5k to start with.

160 rwkw is a great alrounder IMO, when mine was at 152rwkw and approx 530Nm, it would accellerate well, overtake well, hold it's own up hwy hills enough power for play and still return 11.5L /100.

Don't get me excited Ben! The more I get excited the more $$$ I see I'm handing out. As stated the mech said he aim for 160kw, he said its a good place to be at.
I was on the phone with Matt earlier for 40 minutes chatting away, he has told me a lot, a damn lot, I scribbled a lot of it down on paper. First things first I suppose and get the actual motor built, just waiting on the call telling me what sized bearing I need to order for the engine kit, ask the mechanic about what sort of turbo he plans/ or wants me to use then think about the rest.

I think the calling is here for you Matt, or Ben, to start a thread on the ifs and whats on turbo's. Seems theres a bit of interest here.

[mudski]

Yeah I'm keen for a different air box too... Here's a tip for anybody reading.
Don't buy the patroldocta zd30 lookalike stainless box.

Are you referring to this one?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-PATROL-HI-FLOW-ZD30-AIRBOX-SUIT-TURBO-V8-GQ-GU-/201373913230?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2ee2d2108e
This was something I was toying with also. I currently have the OEM box, the HPD lid and the HPD maf housing. I though about either selling the maf housing and using the HPD lid, or sell the lot and this would pay for the Patroldocta one. Thoughts?

[Winnie]

Are you referring to this one?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-PATROL-HI-FLOW-ZD30-AIRBOX-SUIT-TURBO-V8-GQ-GU-/201373913230?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2ee2d2108e
This was something I was toying with also. I currently have the OEM box, the HPD lid and the HPD maf housing. I though about either selling the maf housing and using the HPD lid, or sell the lot and this would pay for the Patroldocta one. Thoughts?
Yeah that's the one. Do not buy it. Both AB and I have it and both want to swap it for something else

[nissannewby]

Hey Matt,

I am keen as to see this thread evolve as i have very similar questions and keen to maybe do an upgrade on the GUIV. I dont really have this type of knowledge and would be keen as to see what you have to say. let your fingers do the talking mate. Your insight will be appreciated.

I know that there is a comprehensive thread on the other forum but to be honest it is HUGE an a mine field for anyone entering the market. That thread has evolved and is difficult to navigate without reading the novel from the start.

I can do this but it makes it hard to convey when everybodies wants, needs and opinions are different.

The best thing you can have when tackling this sort of decision is knowledge. You need to know your budget, how much power/torque you want and in which way you want this delivered, are you doing work yourself and what your intension is with the setup (towing, beachwork, playing etc etc)

[nissannewby]

Are you referring to this one?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-PATROL-HI-FLOW-ZD30-AIRBOX-SUIT-TURBO-V8-GQ-GU-/201373913230?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2ee2d2108e
This was something I was toying with also. I currently have the OEM box, the HPD lid and the HPD maf housing. I though about either selling the maf housing and using the HPD lid, or sell the lot and this would pay for the Patroldocta one. Thoughts?

That is just a shiny version of the standard box lol. It fails to fix the issue that is the oem airbox. The problem is element space, you need a minimum of 30mm all the way around the element. There are plenty of options available these days millweld, radius fabrication, 4by fab etc etc.

[mudski]

I can do this but it makes it hard to convey when everybodies wants, needs and opinions are different.

The best thing you can have when tackling this sort of decision is knowledge. You need to know your budget, how much power/torque you want and in which way you want this delivered, are you doing work yourself and what your intension is with the setup (towing, beachwork, playing etc etc)
But what you explained to me over the phone mate would be good info here. While it kinda makes sense to me on what you said. Having it written down infront of you makes it good as one can read it a few times until it sinks in. Like me. Lol.
Your knowledge in this field needs to be documented...

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

As for the turbos I will just stick with the basics for the time being.

The ones Mudski has mentioned are the Mitsubishi and garret items.

Now the TD05H part of the Mitsubishi number is its turbine size/design. So this will be the same for 16,18 or 20g. Now that part of the number is the compressor size/design, so a 16 being the smallest and 20 the largest. The 20g can obviously supply more volume so can support more hp.

Now the same is for the garrett. The GT** part of the number is for the turbine side again and this will be the same for that model base. So a gt2860,gt2863,gt2867,gt2871 etc etc all use the same turbine. A GT30 will have a bigger turbine and so on. The other part of the number is referring to the compressor wheel. Now for the most part with the garrett this will be the largest diameter of the compressor wheel. so a 60 will be 60mm and a 71 will be a 71mm and so.

Now with the above I am only talking about the actual turbine wheels and compressor wheels. There is the then the housings in which you attach to this.

[mudski]

That is just a shiny version of the standard box lol. It fails to fix the issue that is the oem airbox. The problem is element space, you need a minimum of 30mm all the way around the element. There are plenty of options available these days millweld, radius fabrication, 4by fab etc etc.
Whats the go with Radius Fabs website? Lol. For the price of the milweld and 4by fab air boxes, ill have to stick with what i have i think. Lol.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[AB]

Whats the go with Radius Fabs website? Lol. For the price of the milweld and 4by fab air boxes, ill have to stick with what i have i think. Lol. Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk they're not monitoring they're Wordpress site and it's getting punished by spam!

[nissannewby]

Whats the go with Radius Fabs website? Lol. For the price of the milweld and 4by fab air boxes, ill have to stick with what i have i think. Lol.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

There is no reason why you couldnt make one yourself mark. Radius Fab sell most of there stuff through facebook.

[mudski]

There is no reason why you couldnt make one yourself mark. Radius Fab sell most of there stuff through facebook.
Yeah there is. My welding skills. Food for thought though....

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[mudski]

Yeah that's the one. Do not buy it. Both AB and I have it and both want to swap it for something else
Apart frpm what Matt has said. Why don't you like the air box? Its surely got to be better than the oem box.... Atleast a little....

[nissannewby]

Apart frpm what Matt has said. Why don't you like the air box? Its surely got to be better than the oem box.... Atleast a little....

Nope. Look the oem one will work for your intended application but I would use a k&n due to the air speeds across the element in the standard box. Even the shiny one. Use it for now and put a better one in later with a 4" snorkel and ram head.

[Ben-e-boy]

Apart frpm what Matt has said. Why don't you like the air box? Its surely got to be better than the oem box.... Atleast a little....

It is a little, but the 300 odd cfm that it flows is still insufficient for an NA td42 let alone a turbo. Providing my maths is right an NA td needs about 550 cfm @ 4000 rpm, obviously you will still get all the air required sucked through, but the motor will have to work harder for its air, and that is wasted energy. I suppose it would be like going for a jog around the block trying to breath through a macca's straw,

[nissannewby]

Even if your maths isnt correct ben-e the figure is free flow so no restriction at all. The oem and shiny oem box have a high resistance value due to the air not being able to sufficiently flow around and through the element.

[AB]

I have to rotate mine regularly because of the circular blockage mark from the snorkel.

They're also a pita to get off and on.

Unfortunately air does not flow around the filter that's for sure.

[Winnie]

I have to rotate mine regularly because of the circular blockage mark from the snorkel.

They're also a pita to get off and on.

Unfortunately air does not flow around the filter that's for sure.
Yep 100% this. It's a real pain to take the lid off and they block up so quick because it doesn't use the whole filter but just one small area of it.

[mudski]

Yep 100% this. It's a real pain to take the lid off and they block up so quick because it doesn't use the whole filter but just one small area of it.
Which is no different from the oem housing. So at this stage, i am better off leaving what i have, with the HPD lid, until i can afford a better housing? Unless this build comes under budget. But i doubt it.

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[mudski]

Nope. Look the oem one will work for your intended application but I would use a k&n due to the air speeds across the element in the standard box. Even the shiny one. Use it for now and put a better one in later with a 4" snorkel and ram head.
I already use a k&n element. I would love to put a custom 4inch stainless snorkel on it.

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[Ben-e-boy]

Which is no different from the oem housing. So at this stage, i am better off leaving what i have, with the HPD lid, until i can afford a better housing? Unless this build comes under budget. But i doubt it.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Do you even have a solid plan as to what you want to achieve.

[mudski]

Do you even have a solid plan as go what you want to achieve.
Well this is how it went....
Injector pump shit itself on the zd. I cracked the shits, the missus cracked the shits at me. I wrnt down to JPC snd said for him to do build the td i have here and do the conversion. JPC says he will build for 160kw, he reckons it a good figure, not wild, but not a tug boat either. He's told me to go a 12mm pump, then i have room to move if i ever wanted more down the track, and the cost difference between 11mm and 12mm its better to spend it now rather than later if you decided for more ponies. Made sense to me.
Turbo type he was talking about using a roller bearing type turbo, and from their website it looks like they use Garret turbos. What type of turbo? Haven't got that far yet. I suppose we will get to this soon.

So what do i ant to achieve?
Something reliable and nothing wild, it will be my daily driver. Something with plenty of balls to drag my camper up hills without me slowing right down and holding traffic up.
To be honest this came on all of a sudden and happened so quick i haven't even had time to plan for or think about whats needed.
We have a time limit too or the build and conversion. September holidays. We are/ were planning on driving the Patrol up to QLD and go across to Moreton Island, maybe see Glasshouse if we can fit it in with all the other things on the agenda.


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[nissannewby]

I already use a k&n element. I would love to put a custom 4inch stainless snorkel on it.

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There is really no point of having one without the other. But the airbox should definitely be done at some point. The standard snorkel will be ok but having 4" all the from snorkel to turbo will help you see the full potential of the setup.

[mudski]

There is really no point of having one without the other. But the airbox should definitely be done at some point. The standard snorkel will be ok but having 4" all the from snorkel to turbo will help you see the full potential of the setup.

I'm hearing ya! I think i will just concentrate on getting the motor built, installed and the car going first. If the airbox is going to hamper the performance somewhat, so be it for the time being. I will attend to it. Unless the funds allow for such mods now, I will have to leave it until they do allow for it.

[nissannewby]

Sounds good. Once you get an idea from jpc of the turbo they want to use or what they recommend we can ho a bit further into the pump. A 12mm will most likely be the best option anyway.

As for cost you have a non compensated pump so whether it gets built to an 11 or a 12 there should be no difference in price. But as i said earlier a 12mm really isnt working that hard to produce 160-170rwkw ( a well built one anyway)

[nipagu7]

so mudski , just exactly what have you got to start with . I gather you've got a motor , but what has it got on it , eg; injector pump and such , are you planning to rebuild / recondition the whole motor . is the motor in working order , how many k's on it . if the injector pump is in good working order it might be better to keep it for now and put the money saved into 4in" snorkel and larger airbox !

[MudRunnerTD]

So guys another question. If I want to do a Turbo upgrade can I kill two birds with one stone?

1. Can I take the MTQ Turbo off the GQ and will it fit onto the GU without much fuss? Will this be an upgrade?

2. What would be a good Turbo to fit into the GQ for a good power upgrade and plenty of room to pump up later without making other real changes to the manifold etc.

Is this logic reasonable?

[mudski]

so mudski , just exactly what have you got to start with . I gather you've got a motor , but what has it got on it , eg; injector pump and such , are you planning to rebuild / recondition the whole motor . is the motor in working order , how many k's on it . if the injector pump is in good working order it might be better to keep it for now and put the money saved into 4in" snorkel and larger airbox !

A dead motor is what I have to start with. Needs injector pump, will be sorted after we sort out what turbo is chosen. Needs an intercooler. Will be sticking with top mount. Motor is going to be totally rebuilt. New OEM TD42Ti head. Basically starting from scratch. Its only just started and trying to figure out what parts I'm missing and what parts I need to get is doing my head in already. Someone did say to me a while ago if I were to do this I will be bald and in a straight jacket by the time its done.

[mudski]

So guys another question. If I want to do a Turbo upgrade can I kill two birds with one stone?

1. Can I take the MTQ Turbo off the GQ and will it fit onto the GU without much fuss? Will this be an upgrade?

2. What would be a good Turbo to fit into the GQ for a good power upgrade and plenty of room to pump up later without making other real changes to the manifold etc.

Is this logic reasonable?

FYI Darren. I am using stock intake and exhaust (or MTQ style) manifold. I suppose it all depends on what pump you have mate.
But I'll leave this up to the guru's.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i23/optimus_photo/MichaelJacksonPopcorn.gif

[nissannewby]

So guys another question. If I want to do a Turbo upgrade can I kill two birds with one stone?

1. Can I take the MTQ Turbo off the GQ and will it fit onto the GU without much fuss? Will this be an upgrade? No. The turbo in your gu is good for around 150rwhp. If its only the the turbo that comes with the dts kit from mtq then just sell it to fund the turbo on the gq.

2. What would be a good Turbo to fit into the GQ for a good power upgrade and plenty of room to pump up later without making other real changes to the manifold etc.what sort of power are you after? Budget? Most will bolt to your manifold anyway.

Is this logic reasonable?

Logic is reasonable. Just need some more info. Also what do you want from the gu?

[macca86]

All this effort and you could buy my gu Iv td42ti and put on all your good bits and sell the leftovers

[MudRunnerTD]

Logic is reasonable. Just need some more info. Also what do you want from the gu?

The GU is the tourer mate, it tows the camper and a little more power would be awesome. I don't need it to be a Kenworth though and don't want to spend a sh1t load on it. I want t upgrade the turbo and 125 to 130kw would be nice.

With the GQ rolling on 37s and the Play car it makes more sense to go for something with potential fitted up to that.

The GU has the 11mm pump and honeatly won't spend money net on the pump until it sh1ts itself. The Pump work on the GQ is more likely in a couple of years and would go to a 12mm pump if and when it needs a rebuild.

[nissannewby]

If the pump on the gu is in good condition you could get anywhere up to 140rwkw. If your towing and a pump upgrade isnt on the cards I really think something like the UFI 16g Large will most likely be the best option. Also a gtx2863 like winnie would also be a reasonable option but isn't quite as easy as just bolting on like the ufi item.

The GQ is probably open to a few more options. UFI 18 or 20 g and the garrett 3067 or 3071. All of those can support 200rwkw but the latter of the 2 (20g and 3071) have the potential to support more. Again the ufi items are practically a bolt on turbo. Where as the garrett will need a housing from the states to get the turbo working where you want it.

[MudRunnerTD]

I don't know the specs on the MTQ turbo on the GQ now, if you know what the standard MatQ Turbo is what would I expect from that turbo fitted to the gu and 11mm pump?

[MudRunnerTD]

Sorry guys I think I closed the thread be accident!! All bloody thumbs.

Open for business.

[Ben-e-boy]

I don't know the specs on the MTQ turbo on the GQ now, if you know what the standard MatQ Turbo is what would I expect from that turbo fitted to the gu and 11mm pump?

Well I made 152rwkw with the dts turbo and a 12mm. The limiting factor will be the amount of fuel the 11mm can supply

[nissannewby]

The problem with the turbo in the dts kit supplied by mtq is the rear housing. Ben-e had the fuel to get it turning earlier.

You can certainly bolt it on and it will be better but more than likely it will be later in the range compared to the factory turbo. It will produce a higher peak hp and possibly higher peak torque but where it makes it might not be suitable for the intended use. But you could also like the way in which it delivers its power.

[Ben-e-boy]

If the pump on the gu is in good condition you could get anywhere up to 140rwkw. If your towing and a pump upgrade isnt on the cards I really think something like the UFI 16g Large will most likely be the best option. Also a gtx2863 like winnie would also be a reasonable option but isn't quite as easy as just bolting on like the ufi item.



What about the efr 6258 or 6758?

[nissannewby]

Well I made 152rwkw with the dts turbo and a 12mm. The limiting factor will be the amount of fuel the 11mm can supply

You have a very efficient cooler setup as well compared to a standard gu arrangement.

[nissannewby]

What about the efr 6258 or 6758?

Could be an option but supply and housing options as we know make them a little trickier to fit as such. Best option would be the t25 flange so an adaptor would be necessary.

[Ben-e-boy]

Could be an option but supply and housing options as we know make them a little trickier to fit as such. Best option would be the t25 flange so an adaptor would be necessary.

yeah, I dont think that is a huge issue though, to me any way there isnt so much of a hesitantcy around that as the A/r on the larger model

[MudRunnerTD]

Logic is reasonable. Just need some more info. Also what do you want from the gu?

Thanks mate I missed the Red text you embedded in my question. Bloody colour blind. Red ain't my colour.

[Ben-e-boy]

You have a very efficient cooler setup as well compared to a standard gu arrangement.

Well it just means they should get one too :)

[nissannewby]

yeah, I dont think that is a huge issue though, to me any way there isnt so much of a hesitantcy around that as the A/r on the larger model

Availability is a problem with the efr turbos. Garretts are a dime a dozen, ufi are local and even though sometimes wait times are a problem still seem to be less than efr.

[Ben-e-boy]

Availability is a problem with the efr turbos. Garretts are a dime a dozen, ufi are local and even though sometimes wait times are a problem still seem to be less than efr.

Hopefully worth the wait

[mudski]

Yeah I'm keen for a different air box too... Here's a tip for anybody reading.
Don't buy the patroldocta zd30 lookalike stainless box.

I have just seen on the Patroldocta website they do a larger airbox, not the ZD30 type. It says it uses a larger filter. I have requested some pics from them. This would obviously be better than the ZD30 type they do???

[Winnie]

That's the through the bonnet snorkel type.

[mudski]

That's the through the bonnet snorkel type.

Yer I don't like those snorkels through the bonnet....

[Winnie]

That box is no good for you then! Look at Fatz Fabrications

[Rocket55]

Radius Fab make a sweet 4" panel filter air box also, but if you've got a second battery you'll need to relocate it back towards the firewall by about 80mm.

[mudski]

Radius Fab make a sweet 4" panel filter air box also, but if you've got a second battery you'll need to relocate it back towards the firewall by about 80mm.

Gawd! More work!

Just though about my exhaust too! Man this list is getting longer... Just spoke with Redback, they reckon I only need the front section, but I have no muffler, so I'll need that section too.
Just looking at the Milweld site. Jeez they make a nice black powder coated snorkel...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=59203&stc=1
Anyone know what their airboxes are like?

[mudski]

Another question. What difference between a T2 and T3 flange? Im assuming its size an T3 is what is standard? As i asked the mechanic today about tye DTS manifolds and he said they will be modifying it to a T2 flange. So what is the difference.

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[nissannewby]

T2 is smaller than t3. It is just a disgnatiom for its design and dimensions. Why would they modify cast manifolds that are t3 to t2?? ?

[mudski]

Not sure tbh. I was in a rush, i dropped past, we were chatting briefly while they had a VL revving it's tits off on the dyno and i could barely hear a thing. I am as confused as ever. He said, when its time we will sit down properly and talk turbos.

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[nissannewby]

Will be interesting to see their recommendations. I hope they dont modify a good manifold like the dts and just use an adaptor from t3 to t2.

[mudski]

Yeah i reckon i have heard wrong. As i spotted a Garret gtx3067 .48 on ebay and it was new, and local. I spoke with jpc about it and he rattled off 3081 or something. So these are T3, cant say they all are but im assuming so, so he must have though i said T2. Im lost, tired and confused.
So theoretically T3 would be better that T2. Its larger so better flow?
I have full confidence in this guy, from all the photos and trophies, he's been around. I think its more a case of a chinese guy trying to translate French into English. Me being the chinese guy lol.

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[nissannewby]

Not so much t2 can work and well if done correctly. Same as t3 it works and works well when done correctly. Just adaptors ruin things. It would be better to have a manifold with a t2 flange instead of modifying one to suit. Both t2 and t3 can be capable of 300rwphp.

[mudski]

Not so much t2 can work and well if done correctly. Same as t3 it works and works well when done correctly. Just adaptors ruin things. It would be better to have a manifold with a t2 flange instead of modifying one to suit. Both t2 and t3 can be capable of 300rwphp.
Well if jpc is going T2, maybe im better off trying to find a T2 manifold. ..

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[Ben-e-boy]

Just make sure what they are thinking.. take note of mat's comment when he says "if done right", if you dont you'll end up like me and doing it twice.