Xtreme
4th June 2015, 11:05 AM
Hi Guys,
I am putting together these questions - although I know every subject has probably been covered a thousand times - because I am finding it a bit difficult to find the time to spend searching through the forum and hoping these questions can be answered (once again) in one place for me that is relevant to my build.
2000 ST GU patrol auto, 285k, dawes and needle valve, EGR, 3 inch exhaust with cat, Boost and EGT gauge, 33" BFG AT on std rims ROO systems chip. I bought this patrol last year with 245k on the clock and full service history to do a trip round OZ towing a 3T van (which we did - 9 months and 40K) The car did ok it returned 22L/100k not sure if that was good or not but it was very sluggish on hills - I drove to the EGT gauge not the speed limit and kept it under 400 deg C on the hills - on the flat it did not register on the temp gauge which starts at 300 deg C.
I was running 15 boost but have since dropped it to 12 pounds but notice that now I am not towing anything it is running a bit hotter so I am going to return the boost to 15 pound.
Questions:
1. Have now sold the van and will not be towing ( maybe a camper trailer in the future) and will now mod it to suit mild to hard 4wding. I would like to run 35's MT (leaving the 33 AT for road driving) and wanted to know what gearing is best for both the 35 and 33's. At the moment gearing is horrible for 33s. It either sits on 1500 RPM @ 100 with the overdrive on and feels like it is lagging, or on 2900 RPM @ 90-95 with the OD off and feels like it is revving to hard. I did read on one post the suggestion is to run 85% reduction for autos - is this gearing in the transfer case?
2. What difference between changing gearing in the transfer or the diffs?
3. Has anyone used the Wholesale Automatic Transmissions locked up kit? To give 100% engine breaking on decent? Any experience or opinions on this would be appreciated.
http://automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=42068
4. I would like to keep the build low and stable while being able to fit the 35's. Can I get away with a 2 inch lift and guard chop or 3 inch lift?
5. What offset should I have on the rims to clear 35 x 12.5?
6. Has anyone installed or had experience with the Automatic Transmissions upgraded valve body? The gear changes in mine feel very slow and sluggish and wondered if this would help eliminate it.
http://automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=8169
Any info on these questions would be appreciated and I hope to get a bit of time to start up a build thread soon.
Thanks Guys.
I am putting together these questions - although I know every subject has probably been covered a thousand times - because I am finding it a bit difficult to find the time to spend searching through the forum and hoping these questions can be answered (once again) in one place for me that is relevant to my build.
2000 ST GU patrol auto, 285k, dawes and needle valve, EGR, 3 inch exhaust with cat, Boost and EGT gauge, 33" BFG AT on std rims ROO systems chip. I bought this patrol last year with 245k on the clock and full service history to do a trip round OZ towing a 3T van (which we did - 9 months and 40K) The car did ok it returned 22L/100k not sure if that was good or not but it was very sluggish on hills - I drove to the EGT gauge not the speed limit and kept it under 400 deg C on the hills - on the flat it did not register on the temp gauge which starts at 300 deg C.
I was running 15 boost but have since dropped it to 12 pounds but notice that now I am not towing anything it is running a bit hotter so I am going to return the boost to 15 pound.
Questions:
1. Have now sold the van and will not be towing ( maybe a camper trailer in the future) and will now mod it to suit mild to hard 4wding. I would like to run 35's MT (leaving the 33 AT for road driving) and wanted to know what gearing is best for both the 35 and 33's. At the moment gearing is horrible for 33s. It either sits on 1500 RPM @ 100 with the overdrive on and feels like it is lagging, or on 2900 RPM @ 90-95 with the OD off and feels like it is revving to hard. I did read on one post the suggestion is to run 85% reduction for autos - is this gearing in the transfer case?
2. What difference between changing gearing in the transfer or the diffs?
3. Has anyone used the Wholesale Automatic Transmissions locked up kit? To give 100% engine breaking on decent? Any experience or opinions on this would be appreciated.
http://automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=42068
4. I would like to keep the build low and stable while being able to fit the 35's. Can I get away with a 2 inch lift and guard chop or 3 inch lift?
5. What offset should I have on the rims to clear 35 x 12.5?
6. Has anyone installed or had experience with the Automatic Transmissions upgraded valve body? The gear changes in mine feel very slow and sluggish and wondered if this would help eliminate it.
http://automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=8169
Any info on these questions would be appreciated and I hope to get a bit of time to start up a build thread soon.
Thanks Guys.