Exhaust upgrade vs intake manifold clean

[jimmy77]

Ok I have done the NADS...huge change to vehicle
Next this coming 6 months I have around $1500 to use on mods outside of normal running/repair costs of 2002 3lt DI.
Would it be better to do the intake manifold clean, change over glow plugs from ceramic (I have done the timer mod) and install a lift pump/with sep filter or upgrade to a larger exhaust. I am unable to do this myself (new baby and new job) so I estimate for professional to complete the costs would be pretty close.
I have gear for lift pump plus fuel pressure gauge

Also I thought I would use the fuel pump relay output to pull the coil in on the relay for the new lift pump...anyone done it this way, also have an override switch in engine bay to purge when required.

Currently the vehicle is used on the beach and pretty light fire trail work for camping fully loaded, but no towing.

After these two mods are completed I plan a IC upgrade and snorkel, and then suspension next year for trip to the cape.

Any thoughts Jimmy
:1056:

[Sir Roofy]

Sounds like you have it under control do the intake clean and enjoy your ride

[Rock Trol]

If the car has done high km's then clean the manifold first. A mate cleaned his after about 15000km (2003 3lt Di) and it was almost blocked. Car had been suffering from lack of power.
Once cleaned it ran like new.

[jimmy77]

Hmmm that is the way I am leaning. Just clicked over 140K. I am just about to do my second oil change since completion of NADS, and the first was starkly different to all the others...the oil still had a slight brown colour to it...not the typical black tar colour. I think the clean plus the lift pump setup will win in the end. I would like a new exhaust though!
Waiting for my Ecutalk and that should do me...waiting for Chrissy and a new exhaust!
I guess best long term would be get the bones going as intended, then tweek the edges.

Anyone heard of using the fuel pump active to pull in coil for fuel lift pump circuit? It seems most just have their lift pump on with ignition with no safety cutoff. I thought with the fuel pump possibly already having some sort of cutoff in the circuit this could be used to open the fuel lift pump relay if issue with fuel delivery?

[Hodge]

I'd go with a clean manifold mate. There is no point putting in larger exit pipe, when the entry pipe is clogged up. (assuming it is blocked somewhat)

[mudski]

I'd do the manifold clean mate. Hodge is on the money....
A bigger pipe will help, a lot with power too, but it all depends on the budget. Putting the pipe on yourself is no biggie, I did mine in around 3 hours. Luckily I knew the correct way to remove the turbo shield too. If you don't hold your tongue right for this, it can take you three hours just to get the damn thing off.
As for the lift pump mod. I'm going to do this soon too but I am wary of installing it via the ignition. Because sometimes you need the ignition on for doing any electrical work on the car and I don't know if having the pump running without the motor running will have an adverse affect on anything. So I need to research on which wire I need to tap into so the lift pump only runs when the car is running.
I could just run an override switch but the less switches the better IMHO....

[jimmy77]

Yep, I will capture the muck on camera. Keep you all posted

[4bye4]

I'd do the manifold clean mate. Hodge is on the money....
A bigger pipe will help, a lot with power too, but it all depends on the budget. Putting the pipe on yourself is no biggie, I did mine in around 3 hours. Luckily I knew the correct way to remove the turbo shield too. If you don't hold your tongue right for this, it can take you three hours just to get the damn thing off.
As for the lift pump mod. I'm going to do this soon too but I am wary of installing it via the ignition. Because sometimes you need the ignition on for doing any electrical work on the car and I don't know if having the pump running without the motor running will have an adverse affect on anything. So I need to research on which wire I need to tap into so the lift pump only runs when the car is running.
I could just run an override switch but the less switches the better IMHO....

Make sure you get a lift pump with a pressure cut out. This stops the pump when pressure is in the line. You will be pushed to get a live lead with power only when the motor is running, I think a good quality isolation switch as you suggest would be the best move if you really want to have the ignition on when the engine is not running.
When we need to have a gas lock off on our equipment motors at work, I use a tee off the oil pressure sensor. Put your normal sensor in one side of the tee and get a make contact switch for the other side of the tee. No oil pressure = no power. I use a 2-3psi switch so that cranking the motor makes enough oil pressure to operate the switch. The only draw back is that the oil pressure takes 2 or 3 seconds to fall away after the motor is shut down. This can be overcome by using your ignition power line to power the pump through the pressure switch.

[mudski]

I have the Carter 4600 lift pump. I'll have to check out if it do have a pressure cut off thingo'.