LaughingBeagles Ride.. The Mods

[LaughingBeagles]

Hi all,

Thought I would post as many others have of the various mods on my Troll as I go.

That said, the truck already had a fair bit on it so it is not so much from scratch thread, more a journey of what I have done.

I am no mechanic or engineer etc, but do enjoy getting my hands dirty when I get a chance (my job is sitting behind a desk so it's a great change!).

First up was adding recovery points. As mentioned in a previous post, a big thank you to Threedogs for these points. Was great doing business with him:

Original:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Recovery%20Points/IMG_0509_1.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/Recovery%20Points/IMG_0509_1.jpg.html)


After Points added:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Recovery%20Points/IMG_0531_1.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/Recovery%20Points/IMG_0531_1.jpg.html)

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Recovery%20Points/IMG_0530_1.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/Recovery%20Points/IMG_0530_1.jpg.html)

[LaughingBeagles]

Next was adding a USB Charger and Tablet Holder.

With thanks to Rocket55 for the info in this thread (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28210-Rockets-Wagon&p=530237&viewfull=1#post530237), and thanks to TimE for the info in this thread (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?25079-Aldi-10-quot-Tablet-for-Navigation-and-Comms).

First up, tools you will need:

Medium Phillips head screwdriver
Smaill Phillips head screwdriver
Medium flatblade screwdriver
Plyers
Side cutters
Soldering Iron
5mm drill bit
25mm Drill bit
4mm socket or ring spanner or spanner
Half round file


http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0557.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0557.jpg.html)

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0539.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0539.jpg.html)

(Yes, a couple of tools missing sorry about that!)

Next, this gear to install:


M4 self locking nuts (for USB)
M4 Flat washers (for USB)
M6 Panel Washers for the RAM ball
M4 Counter sunk HD Screws (for USB)
M5 Machine Screw Panhead (not shown)
M5 Self Locking Nuts (for Tablet Ball)


Parts List
From Southern Insight (http://southerninsight.com.au/):

RAM-101U arm
RAM-HOL-TAB-LGU tablet holder


From Battery World Joondalup (http://www.batteryworld.com.au/store/battery-world-joondalup):

Baintech Dual USB Socket - Flush Mount. BTUSB-001. Small enough profile to fit in the small space behind the cubby hole.
3mm figure 8 auto cable (to wire the USB to power)
Relevant sized heatshrink (I did not end up using this)


http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/163507af-515a-4965-9a72-b4989951787c.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/163507af-515a-4965-9a72-b4989951787c.jpg.html)

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0536.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0536.jpg.html)

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0535.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0535.jpg.html)

Steps

Step 1 - Removing the front panel and cubby hole

I am going to quote Rocket55 (credit to him, not me). I followed this without a hitch:


Start by removing the 2 screws just above the temperature control know, these nearly point straight up so you'll need to have a little look see.
Once these are out, simply grab the silver panel and pull it off. It comes straight back towards you, ie: towards the back of the car. I find it easiest to start with the bottom right hand corner, pop this out, then bottom left and pop this out, then just pop the top off. It's only held on by spring clips.
Unplug the rear demister and hazard light switches. [In my case, I also had to unplug the LED Bar light switch]
Once the radio surround is off, you'll see 3 screws that hold the bottom of the aircon vents in. Remove these. Grab the vents and unclip them from the dash, ie. Pull them towards you. They are a bit stiff but the come out. Again I start with one side at a time. The vents don't feel too strong so be a bit careful and sensible here.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0546.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0546.jpg.html)


Now for the tricky bit. You'll now find the whole air vent panel ie: the two air vents and the centre storage box is loose and only being held in at the top in the centre. There is a plastic clip there. It's a spring loaded "tongue" that goes through a slot. The tongue is on the car and the slot is on the panel which comes off (I think). I use a small screwdriver and squeeze it in between the dash and the panel, coming from the side as opposed to straight in and depress the tongue to release the panel. It can be a bit fiddly.
This photo shows the clip that needs to be pushed gently down - exactly as Rocket55 describes.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0548.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0548.jpg.html)

It should now look like this:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0549.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0549.jpg.html)

Note in the middle top where the dash is, is the clip into which goes the cubby hole unit.

Here's a diagram of where all the dash screws are that helped a lot - again credit to Rocket55:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/Build%20Pick%20-%20Dash.png (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/Build%20Pick%20-%20Dash.png.html)

Step 2 - Remove the bottom unit containing the cigarette lighter (I chose the cigarette lighter as my power source for the USB)


There are three screws on the centre console - two on the outside bottom edge and one underneath the ashtray. Remove those
Next, pull the console up and towards you so as to show a gap where the cigarette lighter unit is
Then, find the two screws holding the unit in and remove those (easier than removing the cigarette lighter - believe me, I faffed about with that for ages).
Pull the unit up and to the left and it will slide out exposing the cigarette lighter wiring


Step 3 - feed your wire through

Next, feed your figure 8 wire from the top of the dash, down the back to where the cig lighter wiring is.
Cut and solder in the new wire.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0552.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0552.jpg.html)

Step 4 - fixing the ball and USB plug


Next, drill and fix your ball into the cubby hole using the 5mm drill bit.
Then, do the same for the USB plate
Using your 25mm bit, drill the centre of the plate to cut a hole through which will go the USB unit. I used the half round file to tidy up the hole and 'nudge' it slightly so the USB unit was centre (hope that makes sense!).



http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0550.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0550.jpg.html)

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0551.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0551.jpg.html)

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0554.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0554.jpg.html)

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0555.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0555.jpg.html)

Step 5 - Solder USB Unit

Next, solder your USB unit to your figure 8 wiring.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0556.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0556.jpg.html)

Tape (or make sure you get big enough shrinkwrap, which I wish I did - much neater job!).

Step 6 - Reassemble


Before reassembling, check to make sure the USB unit works.
It is as tight as a fishes backside behind the cubby hole, so I tucked the fuse and wiring down behind the little square frame at the rear (see above shot). This ensured enough room.
To reassemble, just work in reverse...


That's it!! Here's the finished product:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0558.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/BattleScoob/media/USB%20power%20build/IMG_0558.jpg.html)

Works like a charm and charges either the iPad alone or two phones. Gotta be happy with that!!

[threedogs]

Tell me you removed that blue scotch lok they will fail
and really should be avoided. Other than that looks great
thanks for sharing.
Need to twist your wires in a parallel fashion, it will lay flatter.
Check some U tube

[LaughingBeagles]

I did - and agree. I think they're useless. Oh, and it took me a while to work out how to unclip it.... :D

[threedogs]

Great and twist your wire in a parralel manner there are a
few different ways to do it, as other post said U tube may help or Google

[skiman]

Great stuff mate, have subscribed! - thanks for sharing. Great pics and instructions - the iPad mount is very close on my to do list. Was thinking about using this one myself

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/05/284.jpg

[LaughingBeagles]

Thanks Skiman, apprecite the feedback. To be hones, I really think it's a personal choice as to which one you use. I like the one you posted - what I like about mine is that it fits any tablet (yours looks like it could too).

[skiman]

Am a bit like you mate, office job and not much chance to get my hands dirty :P Am enjoying the challenges the Patrol is throwing at me. I think it's good to know as much as you can about fixing things yourself for those moments when you're out bush and the shit hits the fan!

[LaughingBeagles]

Absolutely! :D

[Bigcol]

looking good mate,
how did you go with that camera cable? any luck?????

like I said, looks good mate, well done

[LaughingBeagles]

Thanks Col. The Double Din has arrived so that's the next project. Appreciated your help with the cable too mate.

See you on Wednesday.

[LaughingBeagles]

Ok, so time for the next mod. This was a tricky one as the previous owner used the bottom left bumper bar lights to power just about everything (kidding but you will see what I mean).

Tools

You will need:

Solder and Solder Iron
Pliers
Crimping Tools
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Flat Blade Screwdriver


I purchased from Fleabay Rear LED Lights (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291309357594):

I also grabbed:

A roll of 7 core trailer wire (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301619243911) (again from Fleabay)
Left over 3mm figure 8 autowire
5x WIRE CONNECTOR PLUG car truck motorcycle 6 PIN (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120741958348) (Fleabay again)


http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Rear%20Lights%20Install/IMG_0578.jpg

Steps

Step 1

Remove the plate from rear floor to in order to insert the wire from the left hand to right hand side. I used the flat blade driver to gently put upwards pressure on so I could unscrew the clips:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Rear%20Lights%20Install/IMG_0587.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Rear%20Lights%20Install/IMG_0588.jpg

Step 2

Remove the dummy rear tail lights

As all the other posts say, there are two 10mm screws holding the light in. Undo those and gently pull back on the light so it pops out. You may need to use your flat blade (wrapped in tape to prevent damage to the paintwork) to gently pry it loose but I found I didn't need it).

Step 3

Remove the left hand bumper light to access your wiring. Unfortunately, the guy who had it before me, used it for a range of things so it was tricky working out what belonged to what. I found the best way was to make some notes. Green = Indicator, Black = Earth, and so on.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Rear%20Lights%20Install/IMG_0591.jpg


Step 4
I then soldered the trailer wire and noted the colours eg green = indicator = green on trailer wire etc. Once soldered, I removed the little rubber grommet right near the light (you can't miss it) and fed it up to the rear where the light is:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Rear%20Lights%20Install/IMG_0589.jpg

This is where i deviated from the usual ones. Basically, everyone said to go find a Nevara Plug or to a wreckers to get a plug, some got inserts for stereo looms and the list goes on. I tried all that and after a week of banging my head against the preverbal trying to source something that would work, I decided to purchase the plugs and rewire both looms.

So, follow the directions on how to crimp (let me know if you want more details it can be a bit fiddly if you've not done it before). You should end up with something like this:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Rear%20Lights%20Install/IMG_0592.jpg

These then slide into your plug and hey presto, a new plug with no dramas. Rinse and repeat for the light and the right hand side.

Step 5

Once the looms are wired up, take your earth and reverse light over to the right hand side via the removed plastic plate and feed up and through the jack opening:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Rear%20Lights%20Install/IMG_0584.jpg

Step 6

Wire up the other side using the bottom bumper bar loom (as before).


Step 7
Reassemble your lights and hey presto a christmas tree of your very own:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Rear%20Lights%20Install/IMG_0600.jpg

The biggest pain for me was working out what the previous owner did.

[Clunk]

Ahhh the bug has bit ;)......... looking good Mr Beagle

[skiman]

PRO!

Nice work mate.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[LaughingBeagles]

Truth is, this is a pretty easy install but there was a bit of a tweak that wasn't included in the instructions that made me think perhaps it was worth posting up. Apologies about the quality of the photos. It gets dark quickly this time of year!!

I should also say that I have no affiliation with Drifta but am happy to say I found them fantastic - Luke and the team were incredibly helpful, no question was too dumb, they were happy to discuss payment options and so on. I also love supporting Aussie small business. Now that I have the drawers, I can say I'm not disappointed! Great quality, well thought out and worth every cent.

Finally, the option I chose comes with a fridge slider kit - I've not installed as yet and won't until I get a fridge.

You will need:

1 x set of Drifta Drawers - I went with the Nissan Patrol GU (Y61) Drawer Package (http://www.drifta.com.au/nissan-patrol-storage-drawer-package/).
1x Phillips head Screwdriver
1x 14mm socket
1x 5mm drill bit
1x 5mm self tapping wood screw (extra to what comes with the kit)

Before Shot

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Drawer%20Install/IMG_0608.jpg


Steps (this is following the steps supplied with the kit with a bit of variation)

Step 1
Remove drawers from the carcass and lift the unit into place (I lifted this on my own as my son had not arrived home yet - not highly recommended but doable). The drawers have a spring bolt inside that you will need to release. The unit will fit snuggly between the wheel arches and almost up against the back seats. Drop the side wings in to help square it up and align it inside. They will get the carcass in exactly the right position.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Drawer%20Install/IMG_0609.jpg

Step 2
The two L-brackets can be fitted to the forward or rear threaded points on the wheel arch (where the seats would bolt in). If you can, use the forward ones as they don't crimp the plastic surround. Use the original vehicle bolts to secure.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Drawer%20Install/IMG_0612.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Drawer%20Install/IMG_0613.jpg

Step 3

"Screw the wood screw in from the outside in." This is what the instructions that come with the drawers say. To be honest, it was a pain in the proverbial if you have big sausage fingers like mine. So this and the next step is where I deviated slightly.


Step 3A - the LB method

"Screw the wood screw from the outside in" - sufficiently to hold the bracket in place. Do both sides (you will need an extra 5mm self tapper for this). Then, grab a milkcrate (it is just the right height) or similar object to chock the carcass. Undo the bolts, and carefully lift the carcass forward so that the L-bracket is visible at on top of the back seats. This made life sooooo much easier in terms of accessing that space and so on.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Drawer%20Install/IMG_0615.jpg

Step 3B - the LB method

Once lifted forward, fix the brackets using the supplied screws. Again worth noting the instructions say in their step 4 "The hole the screw leaves marks the right position so you can drill through from the inside out - easy!! Use 5mm drill." I could not fit a drill into the the small barn door draw (say that ten times fast!) cavity so there was no way I would have been able to follow this step. Pulling the draw carcass forward as described in 3A solved this problem in the most simplest way.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Drawer%20Install/IMG_0614.jpg

Step 4 - the LB method
Once both L-brackets are secure, slide the carcass back again, and secure using the seat points / bolts as before. All that's left is to drop in the wings and job's done!! Easy as!

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Drawer%20Install/IMG_0617.jpg

Step 5 - the LB method

Fix the side as shown to steady the carcass. This only needs to be done up hand tight.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Drawer%20Install/IMG_0616.jpg


Bed extension add on.

I also grabbed the bed extension add-on (you can get set up for with or without the back seats removed):

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w254/BattleScoob/Drawer%20Install/IMG_0621.jpg

That's really all there is to it!!

[LaughingBeagles]

Will post some pic soon, but installed a catch can and Anderson plug for the front (for the solar panel to the aux battery). With a dual battery, the catch can was a pain in the backside to find a good spot, but got it sorted in the end.


Tap tap tap

[jay see]

Like your work. Nice and neat.

[LaughingBeagles]

Ok, while not strictly speaking a DYI jobby, I am happy to report, United Fuel has installed a Tipan XP 3" exhaust, dawes and needle and 'tweaked' my ERG ;).

I have to say, the difference was immediate and obvious. The car no longer labours, is smoother, more consistent in RPM's and so on. The before and afters:

Torque Average Before 204 Average after 239 (there are mins and max's as well)
Power Average Before 59 Average after 70.

(average boost is 15.6)

I have a Tunit Chip arriving tomorrow and in the New Year some gauges are going in. All in all, very happy.