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View Full Version : Trailer build advice and ideas please.



Bloodyaussie
10th May 2015, 10:32 AM
I have wanted to start a build on my standard 6x4 with high sides and long draw bar..

I have an idea that I want it to be for camping with the family or even taking on extended hunting trips and is to be for carrying all my gear plus be a kitchen.

I have a very large roof rack that is about 8 foot long to go on top as some form of roof and for mounting an awning from.

Also I have one large tool box mounted on the draw bar at present and have a slightly smaller one not being used.

I would welcome some suggestions or photos of ideas so I can stock pile them... now I am a scrooge and will be doing most of this with scrap steel I have lying around so am limited a bit there... I really want it so all my camping gear permanently stays in it and is ready to go.

The kitchen is the main bit I am struggling with and the kids of storage?

The axle runs larger 6 stud wheels and I have flipped the axle so it sits high and matches the Patrol... if fund allow at some point I will fit electric brakes.

Anyway..... any ideas ??

threedogs
10th May 2015, 10:43 AM
Pop over and check out my camper.
Its built on a 40 x 40 rhs chassis triple 1800 draw bar, Orac greasable off road leaf springs,
O'brien off road coupling but Hinsight I think a normal 2" coupling would do, just over kill.
Lots of good ideas on my chassis imo bit hard to put brakes on later. Flipping the axles doesnt give you much more only 50mm
Are you enclosing the wheels or just have wheel arches more room with the former.
Build the kitchen on a swing away tailgate

You will need all receipts to get it rego'd so keep the weight down as you dont want to exceed 750kg loaded

Bloodyaussie
10th May 2015, 10:49 AM
How about some photos or have you posted before and I have missed it??

my third 256
10th May 2015, 10:49 AM
try and make the main area 7 foot long as a lot of things dont fit into 6 foot length

Bloodyaussie
10th May 2015, 10:53 AM
try and make the main area 7 foot long as a lot of things dont fit into 6 foot length

I was thinking about trying to expand the width above the wheel arches.... Hmmm?

Bigcol
10th May 2015, 12:02 PM
try and make the main area 7 foot long as a lot of things dont fit into 6 foot length


I was thinking about trying to expand the width above the wheel arches.... Hmmm?

if you make it longer and wider on the top, it makes it hard to open the tail gate and any storage lockers you have - because of the overhang
(I watched a guy ginning around trying to setup his one day - home made jobby - what a lot of stuffing around, as it was the canopy etc off a 7x5 trailer on a 6x4trailer)

far easier to make the centre wider (new axle required though) and the trailer body longer before getting a roof of any sort on it

think about how you would normally use it when away - tight areas - plenty of room etc
this will help determine if a Kitchen slide out at the front would be better than a Tailgate that swings to either 90* or even 180* (so it sits along the whole side of the trailer)
lots of cool pictures here
https://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1664&bih=801&q=camper+trailer+kitchen+designs&oq=camper+trailer+kitchen&gs_l=img.3.1.0l7.2854.10438.0.17768.24.13.1.8.9.0. 304.1810.2-6j1.7.0.msedr...0...1ac.1.64.img..9.15.1842.ggypy3 wfH9Q

its a good idea to balance your weight when building
water tank at the front / kitchen at the rear
or vise-a-versa

storage of kids - tubs that fit in the middle, lift the bed and there they are

hope some of this helps

threedogs
10th May 2015, 12:50 PM
Build your frame and draw bar up side down, fit your springs then flip it over, allow some square tubing welded to the inside to run wires
and keep protected . Weld tabs on the draw bar to attach any boxes saves doing it later. string line will help setting up the coupling.
If you need a hand just holla
Forward and aft of the wheels can be storage lockers, How high are you going to build it??
this pic shows 80ltr ice box and an alloy utility box, behind icebox is storage for my 80 watt panel
my trailer has 265s and the GU has 2" lift sitting on 33s , to keep it level I turned the togue upside down
Mine is for sale if it suits your needs 12mths reg to

I take it your 6x4 is made from angle iron and has slipper style springs????

Punderhead
11th May 2015, 06:44 PM
I think that for all the stuffing around, if you want to build a quality camper trailer, you are better off to start from scratch than you are modifying the 6x4. Plus you can sell the old trailer to fund the steel.

Comments based on how I would build one/experiences from dads.

Make your tailgate strong enough to have the spare on. This saves room on the drawbar, and reduces ball weight, allowing for a bigger toolbox.

Make sure the trailer has decent height. Most don't worry, but the extra clearance saves a lot of dragging and therefore wear and tear on the car.

Kitchen is open to interpretation, but best not to mount a stove permanently. You can always whack your camping stove up, plus it's movable for more bench space.
Also, put a decent sink in place. Dads is quite small and makes washing up in it super annoying.

Tent is a personal choice, but think ease of setup/pack up.


I can get some pics of dads camper (track about safari) if you'd like.

Cheers
Tent

Bloodyaussie
11th May 2015, 07:16 PM
Im not building a camper trailer....

I just want a rig to bring all my crap when i go away with my family.. i have a very good tent and am not at this stage going out to buy another (no money anyway)

I just want a set up that a can carry all my stuff but also have a kitchen and build my second fridge into and a place all my camping gear can live permanently.

I will attach an awning and as i think it is wasted having it on my car.

Punderhead
11th May 2015, 07:30 PM
Im not building a camper trailer....

I just want a rig to bring all my crap when i go away with my family.. i have a very good tent and am not at this stage going out to buy another (no money anyway)

I just want a set up that a can carry all my stuff but also have a kitchen and build my second fridge into and a place all my camping gear can live permanently.

I will attach an awning and as i think it is wasted having it on my car.



Sorry, my misunderstanding.

However, in that case, I would......

Upgrade the spring to heavy duty eye-eye instead of the standard slippers.
Change the standard ball hitch for an off-road jobbie.
Build the frame for the roof rack/awning on top. (But remember, it will be easier to roll the trailer than the car with too much weight up there)

For the kitchen, I would get one of those white plastic tables for the bench top, steel frame to support it and let it slide out down the side. Cut out a decent size hole and drop a sink in, and use some marine ply (or similar waterproof material) to enclose the frame and make cupboard underneath the bench to store food etc.. Also put in a sturdy, adjustable drop down leg for support when it is fully extended out.

Then make dividers etc, and pack your gear how you want, with a place for everything.

Hope this helps in your ideas process.

Cheers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BigRAWesty
11th May 2015, 08:04 PM
So I think the first thing you need to do is work out your sides.
To save heaps of fab time (and depending on how high you want to go) a simple C section purling may be a simple cut to size and bolt on option.
If not some plate strips to suit new height and angle iron welded on to give the folded edge look..

Next will you want tailgate mounted kitchen or something that slides out.

If tailgate mounted you'll need to cut off and move hinges so it swings from the side.
But also will the extension piece be ok or is a new tailgate needed??

Then how fancy do you want the kitchen??
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171368597021?nav=SEARCH

There are cheaper but that's the first I found.
And if you plan on mounting the kitchen and spare on the tail gate you'll need some serious hinges, dam near a rod and tube setup and something just as good to secure on the other end.

If your happy to stick the spare under the trailer a simple flat bar hanger could be made and a couple of chain links make a simple hinge and lock setup cheap.

Draw bar is simple.
100x50x5mm minimum.
Personally I always start the draw bar as close to the front spring hanger as possible.
That's as strong as it's going to get.
Then just make it to suit the length you want.
Run a string line down the guts of the body so the tow point is dead centre.

How much steel do you have and what sizes?? This will really determine what you do.

altech
17th May 2015, 09:58 AM
Hi Guys, had this trailer that I got Ebay for 200 bucks which need fixing up as it had wooden floor & sides. replaced floor with marine ply .hmm other $160.
Wife saying to me why didn't you get a new one lol . surfing ebay and saw a ford ute tub $200 ,same day found a canopy $ 150 ebay and here is the results in pic's below , hope this helps regards Alex

threedogs
17th May 2015, 10:32 AM
TBTH an angle iron frame with slipper springs wont cut it on any rough tracks,
better off buying one for off road use or sell your trailer and buy some decent steel

Bloodyaussie
17th June 2015, 05:34 PM
My mate who builds caravans dropped me off a large water tank to mount under my trailer, he just came past then and dropped the brackets off and said he might have a chassis for me that would make the perfect base for a build.

A little excited but dont want to get my hopes up..

Winnie
18th June 2015, 07:17 AM
My mate who builds caravans dropped me off a large water tank to mount under my trailer, he just came past then and dropped the brackets off and said he might have a chassis for me that would make the perfect base for a build.

A little excited but dont want to get my hopes up..
Hope it all comes together for you mate

kevin07
18th June 2015, 07:36 AM
I would without hesitation have electric brakes fitted, why not keep your eye on some pickles auctions for when they do the caravan and trailer wrecks some awesome chassis there only down side is you have to take the scrap that comes on top of the chassis.

threedogs
18th June 2015, 07:41 AM
Not sure on your design but when I converted my back hoe trailer
I was going to get my sheetmetal guy to fold up some sides to suit my design.
was going to be cheap enough doing it this way.
Great idea 07
Electric brakes are a given for any off road trailer, brake over ride going down hill
pays for itself imo
Also when designing figure out where a battery would go you could recess it into the floor like I did
out of sight, Are you putting a box on the drawbar, ??
You'll also need either larger mudflaps or a curtain on front of the trailer,
to prevent smashing your back windows, All things to consider.
Orac make a good off road greasable shackle leaf set up or you could make a
simple coil shock set up. pre drilled and welded tabs for any boxes I needed
big white box is my Bailys ice box[esky]
Flip up jockey wheel with a 10" wheel priced ok at SCA

Bloodyaussie
16th July 2015, 03:27 PM
I am beginning to make my own trailer now and wanted to know if I should go 6x4 or 8x5???

Clunk
16th July 2015, 03:32 PM
I am beginning to make my own trailer now and wanted to know if I should go 6x4 or 8x5???
I'd say whatever you think suits you best. Is a 6x4 going to be big enough, or is a 8x5 going to be a bit large for your intended use.


You can thank me later sweet cheeks [emoji8]

Bloodyaussie
16th July 2015, 05:09 PM
I have some C-section that is 2300mm long and very heavy duty... I am thinking of using this as my draw bar??

I have decided on 8x5 and managed to get a very good deal on 40x40x2400 and 3mm thick at only $8 a length.. I bought 15 but I am going back for more as it is a bloody good price.. Matty is getting me to grab him 15 also.

Winnie
16th July 2015, 07:01 PM
Yeah mine is 7x5 and is a great size, I've never wished it were bigger so around that is a good size

nissannewby
16th July 2015, 07:23 PM
I have some C-section that is 2300mm long and very heavy duty... I am thinking of using this as my draw bar??

I have decided on 8x5 and managed to get a very good deal on 40x40x2400 and 3mm thick at only $8 a length.. I bought 15 but I am going back for more as it is a bloody good price.. Matty is getting me to grab him 15 also.

What size is the pfc?

Bloodyaussie
16th July 2015, 07:27 PM
What size is the pfc?

Not sure i understand?

AB
16th July 2015, 07:38 PM
Not sure i understand? ^^^ the pfc is strong in this one.

nissannewby
16th July 2015, 07:48 PM
Not sure i understand?

Parrallel flange channel. (C section)

Bloodyaussie
16th July 2015, 07:53 PM
Parrallel flange channel. (C section)

100x75 and about 4mm thick

nissannewby
16th July 2015, 08:18 PM
100x75 and about 4mm thick

Thats an odd size. Are you sure it isnt 100x50 or 150x75?
Either way it will be heaps as a draw bar on a small trailer like that.

Bloodyaussie
16th July 2015, 08:21 PM
Thats an odd size. Are you sure it isnt 100x50 or 150x75?
Either way it will be heaps as a draw bar on a small trailer like that.

It could be 100x50 but it was dark and I got scared.. so 100mm was all I measured and I guessed the rest...lol

Good stuff as it is one less thing I have to reach into my wifes purse for.... might find my testicles in there?

nissannewby
16th July 2015, 08:23 PM
It could be 100x50 but it was dark and I got scared.. so 100mm was all I measured and I guessed the rest...lol

Good stuff as it is one less thing I have to reach into my wifes purse for.... might find my testicles in there?

Yeah pfc is set. For the smaller sizes the flanges are half the back of the channel as they get bigger they change. So 250pfc is 250x90

As for your testicles you need to accept the fact they are gone lol

Bloodyaussie
16th July 2015, 08:27 PM
Yeah pfc is set. For the smaller sizes the flanges are half the back of the channel as they get bigger they change. So 250pfc is 250x90

As for your testicles you need to accept the fact they are gone lol

So I am good to go then..?

Its length being 2300mm is near on perfect.. my other trailer has a long draw bar of 2000mm so this should be good.

With everything I have here now I could build the base and draw bar and all the sides.

I wish I had more cash for this steel I have found as it is perfect for making heavy work benches and all sorts other other wonderful things.

nissannewby
16th July 2015, 08:31 PM
Sounds like you are set.

Yes the longer the better as you know short trailers are a pain to reverse. Gives you room to also mount a box or spare tyre there too.

Steel is cheap.

mudski
16th July 2015, 08:36 PM
Yeah mine is 7x5 and is a great size, I've never wished it were bigger so around that is a good size

My trailer is 7x5 with 18inch high sides. Plenty big enough but almost too big for camping. As when packing the trailer you want things sitting in there snug. So theres no movement. I used to find myself looking for things just to shove in the trailer.

threedogs
17th July 2015, 01:42 PM
You want ideally to have the same wheelbase as your patrol.
Mine is only a little off but I have wheel spacer if I need to.
Do you need boxes infront and behind the wheel and box in your wheels
so to speak 7 foot long perfect for sleeping if need be, 4 or 5 ft wide is a personal choice.
100% on the 180cm draw bar, mine will sit on 140kph all day long where permitted of course.
If its not for sleeping you wont need step to gain entry. Have a hard lid and flip it sides ways.
Do you have a rough floor plan of what you want??

blocko05
21st August 2015, 05:15 PM
Hi BA, I got some great ideas form a forum called my swag. Its all about people making their own camper trailers and the like. I think you might get some good ideas from if you are interested in having a look. Good friendly people on there as well.

http://www.myswag.org/

Bloodyaussie
21st August 2015, 06:50 PM
We should have our own camper thread be it it camper trailer or caravan or pop top..

Compare notes and so on with all the pluses and minuses of their own campers.