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Rock Trol
6th May 2015, 10:33 PM
Hi all,

I am toying with the idea of converting my Patrol (2007 - ZD30) from Manual to Auto. My left knee is not in the best of shape and I think an auto probably suites the torque characteristics of the motor better.

What hardware is needed to do a conversion? I won't be doing it myself but want an understanding of the work and parts involved in the conversion.

So far I have thought of:

1. 4 speed auto/torque converter
2. Transmission cooler
3. Gear selector & center console cover
4. Transmission Control Unit/harness

Anything else off the list? With the ECU, is it a straight plug and play on the CRD GU's?
Has anyone used a Wholesale Automatics Compushift Transmission Control unit (http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=40338)? I am wondering if this is better than the stock TCU?

jack
7th May 2015, 10:28 AM
Hi mate,

I don't know whats involved other than it sounds expensive.

jff45
7th May 2015, 11:47 AM
If you're not doing it yourself, I'm sure it would be way cheaper to trade the vehicle for an auto.

If someone tells you they can do it for $10k, you can count on it costing $15k by the time it's running correctly.

Are the diff ratios the same?

Rock Trol
7th May 2015, 02:54 PM
Hi mate,

I don't know whats involved other than it sounds expensive.

Looking at the Wholesale Automatics site it sounds like it would be around $8-9000 but they did say that the GU Patrol is one of the easiest cars to convert as the prop shaft, transfer case etc. can all be used. Both boxes are same length.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3RzbLuNTto

My knee feels better today so I am happy with the manual. When the knee starts bothering me my thoughts turn back to the auto. Bugger!

jack
7th May 2015, 02:59 PM
I must admit the auto is a pleasure to drive.

Rock Trol
7th May 2015, 03:02 PM
If you're not doing it yourself, I'm sure it would be way cheaper to trade the vehicle for an auto.

If someone tells you they can do it for $10k, you can count on it costing $15k by the time it's running correctly.

Are the diff ratios the same?

Not sure about the diff ratios. I have 4.3's and I did read somewhere that the auto has 3.9's but I don't know if its correct.
If the car was anywhere near standard I would be tempted to do that but I have done so much to it that I don't think I would get any of the money back. If I bought an auto GU I could try and transfer all the gear across but not sure how much that would cost. I have had the car for just over 30000 km so I have not had my moneys worth from it or the mods yet.

I am not keen on starting all over on another 3.0 litre GU. Too many little niggly bits that need to be fixed/upgraded. Maybe if a nice 4.8 came along..........

Rock Trol
7th May 2015, 03:06 PM
I must admit the auto is a pleasure to drive.

A lot of people in my club that have changed over to autos (new car) have said that same thing. Some of these guys have been driving 4bys since the 70's. We do a lot of sand hill work and the autos do it so much easier as the tranny will slip or downshift but the manuals lug and stall in really hungry sand.

FNQGU
7th May 2015, 07:20 PM
jff45 is right - it aint cheap if you aren't doing it yourself.

I have done the conversion and bought it all via Wholesale Automatics then did the install with a mate. The install itself isn't that difficult, but then we found neither of us knew how to wire up the Compushift II, TPS etc. and had to get someone to do it, which then made the economics a whole lot less appealing.

That said, I am converted to Auto and love it. The compushift II is fantastic and I am still playing around with various settings.

Rock Trol
7th May 2015, 08:28 PM
jff45 is right - it aint cheap if you aren't doing it yourself.

I have done the conversion and bought it all via Wholesale Automatics then did the install with a mate. The install itself isn't that difficult, but then we found neither of us knew how to wire up the Compushift II, TPS etc. and had to get someone to do it, which then made the economics a whole lot less appealing.

That said, I am converted to Auto and love it. The compushift II is fantastic and I am still playing around with various settings.

I think if its under $10k its more economical to convert than upgrade. If I can build my knee up a bit more it may not be an issue. ;)
If I do it I am sure that it will be mush easier to get around. When my engine is kept on boost it flies so I don't think I would regret it.

The other thing is that I could sell the manual. There is no problem with it and it is a later unit that has had all the bugs worked out of it by the factory (5th gear issue).
Not sure how much they go for.

fatti
30th May 2020, 09:43 PM
Did you end up doing this? I am contemplating the same thing for the same reason. The kit you buy from over east (I am in Perth) is just under $7k so maybe that is the go.

0-TJ-0
31st May 2020, 08:57 PM
Did you end up doing this? I am contemplating the same thing for the same reason. The kit you buy from over east (I am in Perth) is just under $7k so maybe that is the go.

Last post was in 2015 mate. You might get some of the other fellas on here chime in if you head over and introduce yourself first.

I've thought about this for my rig and would strongly consider what you could get for a trade in. If you sold yours and added 7k would you get a better/newer/less km rig?

0-TJ-0
15th December 2020, 10:23 PM
Re-digging an old thread.

I've flicked though a few old ones and can't find someone who's gone through with it on here. I've been toying with the auto conversion idea for a while mostly because the mrs doesn't like driving it since I put the heavy duty clutch in. She reckons it's too heavy, I don't notice it but as I get older I'm warming to the idea of an auto fourby. It's sprung up again tonight as I may be able to pick up a doner vehicle cheappp.

I looked at trading in on an auto but I can't find one in a 4.2td. Did they even do them or are they just rare as hens teeth?

I'm really happy with the rig otherwise at the moment. Think I've got the kettle sorted out after a brilliant week towing a 2t camper around KI with zero issues.

Couple basic questions;
I've read the 3.0 auto bolts straight up. Is this the case?
Do the prop shafts ect all bolt up?
Could I use the 3.0 trans controller or would I have to get the controller from wholesale autos?

Probs just a pipe dream but if I could do it for a reasonable price I might consider it.

jff45
16th December 2020, 07:59 AM
The TD42T had an auto in the Safari model. I don't think we saw any autos in the TD42T GU models here. The TD42Ti never had an auto but several have done their own conversions.
Yes, the ZD30 bolts straight up. You just need an easy mod for the starter. Obviously, you need a flexplate to replace the flywheel. TC stall needs to be lowered if using the ZD30 TC.
The only way to use the ZD30 TCU is to wire in the ECU as well but there are much better aftermarket options available for the RE4 auto.

The RE4 behind a warmed TD42 is really nice to drive. A good valve body in the auto does shift changes much faster than you can change gears in a manual.

0-TJ-0
16th December 2020, 09:22 AM
The TD42T had an auto in the Safari model. I don't think we saw any autos in the TD42T GU models here. The TD42Ti never had an auto but several have done their own conversions.
Yes, the ZD30 bolts straight up. You just need an easy mod for the starter. Obviously, you need a flexplate to replace the flywheel. TC stall needs to be lowered if using the ZD30 TC.
The only way to use the ZD30 TCU is to wire in the ECU as well but there are much better aftermarket options available for the RE4 auto.

The RE4 behind a warmed TD42 is really nice to drive. A good valve body in the auto does shift changes much faster than you can change gears in a manual.

Thanks mate, very helpful. Had a look at the wholesale autos pages after posting last night and looks like they use the 5 speed from the Tb motors.

Their setup looks brilliant. I can't imagine the price is though :/ I do expect it's too much to spend on an old car.