Rust protection compounds

[Parksy]

Hi all

Have been doing a little experimenting by applying different products onto bare metal and seeing what happens when I leave them in the elements. I've disolved beeswax into turps to turn it into a liquid and applied that to a small section of steel, a small section I applied marine grease and the 3rd section is marine grease and the wax, both disolved into turps. When dried, the wax section and grease/wax mix are both touchable and not sticky.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Pakas/BC4DFA91-CBB7-4389-AE28-CC02BE01F57F.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Pakas/media/BC4DFA91-CBB7-4389-AE28-CC02BE01F57F.jpg.html)

Has rained all week very heavily and this is how it looks at the moment.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Pakas/668F5927-FFF6-4E1C-916D-AF713A344910.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Pakas/media/668F5927-FFF6-4E1C-916D-AF713A344910.jpg.html)

Where there is rust, nothing was applied. Will leave it out in the weather for a few months and see which one works best.

Andy

[Bloodyaussie]

Hi all

Have been doing a little experimenting by applying different products onto bare metal and seeing what happens when I leave them in the elements. I've disolved beeswax into turps to turn it into a liquid and applied that to a small section of steel, a small section I applied marine grease and the 3rd section is marine grease and the wax, both disolved into turps. When dried, the wax section and grease/wax mix are both touchable and not sticky.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Pakas/BC4DFA91-CBB7-4389-AE28-CC02BE01F57F.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Pakas/media/BC4DFA91-CBB7-4389-AE28-CC02BE01F57F.jpg.html)

Has rained all week very heavily and this is how it looks at the moment.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Pakas/668F5927-FFF6-4E1C-916D-AF713A344910.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Pakas/media/668F5927-FFF6-4E1C-916D-AF713A344910.jpg.html)

Where there is rust, nothing was applied. Will leave it out in the weather for a few months and see which one works best.

Andy

Good stuff Andrew... will keep an eye on this.

[nissannewby]

Sump oil works well.

[Parksy]

Sump oil does work. But doesn't last long.

[Ben-e-boy]

After the test is done, can you paint it? Just with chassis black or something? And no cleaning? Please

[Parksy]

Can do Ben. Any reason for it?

[threedogs]

I've found Lanotec works well not sure how long it lasts though.
enviromentally friendly too, has a thousand uses,
always have a can on hand.

Could you use your mix with a spray bottle or is it brush on only

[lhurley]

Can do Ben. Any reason for it?

Just having a stab in the dark, but im guessing Ben is asking about a rust inhibitor that can be painted. Say you wanted touch up your bull bar or rock sliders, something that will protect the steel but can have colour on it

[Ben-e-boy]

Just for harder to reach places, like chassis rail or cross members, just for experimental sake

[Parksy]

No dramas. This stuff can be sprayed in a spray bottle. It atomises very well. That was the whole reason I disolved the marine grease, to make it spray able. I picked the marine grease because it's designed to resist being washed away, as well as to stop corrosion.

[threedogs]

sounds like a good product to coat newly done earth straps,

[pat in a troll]

i've heard of fish oil being used. i'd use it myself but I don't know if it'd wash away

[Parksy]

Have used fish oil before and it does eventually wash away. It takes a few days in the shed to dry properly, then after a long while, the skin that it formed tends to peel away.

Here is how the metal is looking at the moment. Will be heading on holidays for 10 days, so it's a little early. Might have to spray some salt water into it to speed up the process...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Pakas/C5BC5736-89D1-4B20-AAC6-5747122CFC08.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Pakas/media/C5BC5736-89D1-4B20-AAC6-5747122CFC08.jpg.html)

[Parksy]

Back from holidays and I'm surprised at how it's looking.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Pakas/25E7AB1F-CA82-438E-906B-20DD83B3E4A7.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Pakas/media/25E7AB1F-CA82-438E-906B-20DD83B3E4A7.jpg.html)

The marine grease in the middle appears to be performing the worst as there is corrosion forming and the beeswax on its own it working the best.

[pedals]

Rust protection goes like this:
1. make it clean.
2. Penetrol goes on.
3. Gal epoxy enamel goes on.

This is one of the nest combinations I've ever used.

Just saying.

[Parksy]

Thanks pedals. I'm trying to make a liquid that can be sprayed inside boxed sections and forgotten about. Painting isn't really an option, especially with invisible nooks and crannies.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Pakas/7F445BB9-3BA2-489D-AE65-6C0EC6CD6109.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Pakas/media/7F445BB9-3BA2-489D-AE65-6C0EC6CD6109.jpg.html)
Here is the latest. The grease on its own is performing the worst. But it has significantly changed colours so I'm wondering if the sun light damages the grease. Might have to try another test but under cover. Only problem with this is it can't collect the weather.

[pat in a troll]

has the sun dried out the grease at all?

[Parksy]

I believe it has. It still feels greasy, but no where near the same as fresh grease.

[threedogs]

would be great to treat the inside of the chassis rails not sure
about the GU but have seen some woefull GQ jobs over the years.

[Parksy]

All ferous metals will suffer the same fate eventually. Give it time and the GU's will look the same.

[yazz22]

Cortec out of the USA do rust protection compounds

[Parksy]

Long time no see and I thought I'd post an update picture as its been over a year!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Pakas/CF35F773-1BC8-42B1-AD73-C4CA20E98680.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Pakas/media/CF35F773-1BC8-42B1-AD73-C4CA20E98680.jpg.html)

As you can clearly see, the marine grease mixed with the beeswax is a clear winner. This piece of steel has been out in direct sunlight the entire time. So my assumption is it would work better if used underneath a car.
You can see how I've smeared it onto the steel, using a single finger. Better results would be had if I had applied even coverage.

Cheers

[mudnut]

I have seen a few paragraphs about a bloke who applied lanolin to a stripped car body and then left it outside for 3 years before any rust formed.

It may have been the idea for inox or lanotec. I have found that fish oil is great on the inside of panels and doors, but tends to go milky when applied to external components and exposed to prolonged periods of rain.

Does the marine grease, beeswax mix leach contaminants / form an oil trail when exposed to rain?

[Parksy]

Doesn't seem to leach/run at all. It has dried to form a skin and water just beads off.

[Arfa Brayne]

There has been a few products over the years that run a similar idea and have worked well, Waxoyl was very much like your idea but used parrafin instead of beeswax.
Maybe a combination of beeswax and lanolin would be the "bees knees" (sorry, couldn't resist) in rustproofing.

The biggest failing in all rustproofing applications is usually how it's applied. I remember doing "Rust-rid" in our workshop back in the 80's, the product was good, the equipment was probably the best to this day, but "Rust-rid" only allowed 1xhour and 1 litre of product per vehicle. I used between 3-4 litres per vehicle and took 3-4 hours plus cleanup.
"Rust-rid" came down to "set me straight", but the workshop owner backed me up. He told the Rust-rid boys we were a small country dealership on the oceanfront, and it was more important to do a good job than a cheap job because our reputation was on the line. Top Boss.

20 years later the local cars we had rustproofed were still puttering around town in the salt spray mist, while cars of visiting tourists with "Rust-rid" stickers on the back windscreen were a running joke - the only thing that didn't rust was the sticker.

In my opinion fish oil works the best (don't know where to buy rust-rid nowdays, they went broke) - but fish oil needs to be applied every 5 years, or when you can't smell it anymore. No need for the stinky stuff - deodorised works fine, just a light non fishy smell.
Case in point was my aunt's '68 Mini panel van - these things would rust out if a dog pi$$ed on the wheels, but she fish oiled it every 3 years for 34 years of ownership and parked it morning and night by the surf beach for fishing the gutters for whiting, flattys, jewfish, salmon or taylor. The thing copped more salt spray and less washes than dole-bludger surfie, and was always full of sand, fishing tackle and wet beach towels. When she sold it, the only rust on it was some surface ginger on the roof and bonnet where the paint had worn thin from being parked outside it's entire life.

[Dirtydog16]

Long time no see and I thought I'd post an update picture as its been over a year!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Pakas/CF35F773-1BC8-42B1-AD73-C4CA20E98680.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Pakas/media/CF35F773-1BC8-42B1-AD73-C4CA20E98680.jpg.html)

As you can clearly see, the marine grease mixed with the beeswax is a clear winner. This piece of steel has been out in direct sunlight the entire time. So my assumption is it would work better if used underneath a car.
You can see how I've smeared it onto the steel, using a single finger. Better results would be had if I had applied even coverage.

Cheers
Hey g'day Parksy,

Could you tell us the order from the pointy end.

Also in this post you said the wax and grease were the best option but on the previous page I thought you said the was by itself was best.

Cheers!

DD16

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