Clutch replacement GQ RB30

[dom14]

Hi Guys,
I'm planning to replace the clutch of my RB30 GQ Patrol manual carby model, sometime soon.

Since I haven't done it on a Patrol before, I thought I can get some helpful advice from the backyard and pro gurus here.

I'm planning to do it myself. I know it's a back breaking job, so I'm dying to get it right with the right clutch kit.

What I don't have is a hoist. But, I can get hold of an engine crane & a transmission jack attachment for trolley jack.(or even fabricate a one with few pieces of scrap steel)



1)What is the best way to get started?

Should I pull the motor out first using an engine crane & not touch the transmission or
Should I leave the motor alone & approach from underneath to separate the gearbox from motor using transmission jack?

I do have a way of raising the vehicle up a couple of feet or more using blocks of tree log cutoffs & trolley jacks, if necessary( I used the method safely during the rear diff job).

2)What are the heavy tools I need to do it at home(depend on whether I approach by pulling the motor or pulling the gearbox)?

3)What is the best clutch kit for the RB30?
I located few possible candidates from fleabay, listed below price from low to high.

(I)http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Clutch-Pro-STD-Clutch-Kit-NISSAN-Patrol-GQ-RB30-3-0-Litre-89-97-/321699886597?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4ae6ceb605

(II)http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-PATROL-CLUTCH-KIT-MQ-PETROL-RB28-RB30-2-8-Litre-3-0-Litre-G60-Model-/360079148549?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item53d663c605

(III)http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-KIT-NISSAN-Patrol-GQ-RB30-3-0-Litre-89-97-/321662409026?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4ae492d942

(IV)http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-G60-3-0-Ltr-1990-1993-Clutch-Kit-/120841303627?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c22b3f64b

(V))http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XTREME-NISSAN-Patrol-GQ-RB30-3-0-Litre-89-97-Heavy-Duty-Clutch-Kit-/221661418040?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item339c0cd238

(VI)http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEAVY-DUTY-CLUTCH-KIT-Nissan-PATROL-GQ-3-0l-RB30-RPM-/121549068939?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c4ce39a8b

3)What are advantages and disadvantages of the No(V) & (VI) heavy duty clutch? Should I go for it or is it an overkill?

4)Do I need any modifications of the flywheel, etc to accommodate the above heavy duty clutch?

I'll be towing a 12 foot van sometime, along some long distances, & if possible along outback tracks(like Birdsville, Oodnadatta, etc)

5)Do we generally machine the flywheel or do we only do it if it looks bad?

6)Are there any general guidelines to assess a bad flywheel or should I post a picture here with details when I get to it?

Thanx guys

P.S. Pardon me for the plethora of questions. I'm hoping to video & photograph the whole process and put it here for the benefit of mad blokes like me. :D

[GQ TANK]

The last couple of clutch kits i have brought fropm sunbury brake and clutch - good price (they are on ebay). Also the vl commodore clutch for the rb30 is he same kit as the patrols - but a bit cheaper. I have done clutchs both ways - pulling the motor and dropping the box 9done a suzuki last weekend - dropped the box.

When I have done my patrols - I always pull the motor - the box's are very heavy, plus I have a gantry and block and tackle. I have done the cluths by my self with the patrol - wjhen I have pulled the motor

[dom14]

The last couple of clutch kits i have brought fropm sunbury brake and clutch - good price (they are on ebay). Also the vl commodore clutch for the rb30 is he same kit as the patrols - but a bit cheaper. I have done clutchs both ways - pulling the motor and dropping the box 9done a suzuki last weekend - dropped the box.

When I have done my patrols - I always pull the motor - the box's are very heavy, plus I have a gantry and block and tackle. I have done the cluths by my self with the patrol - wjhen I have pulled the motor

Thanks mate. Haynes manual advises to pull(drop) the gearbox, but pretty much most of the real clutch job on patrols that have been done by the forum blokes suggest pulling the motor out is the way to go. It sounds like, even if I pull the gearbox, I might still need an engine crane or something to hold and move the motor?!
I'm still exploring both ways. I prefer to pull the motor out(I think) 'cos that might allow me to do other work on the motor(few mods & repairs) while it's outside.
Pulling the gearbox is PITA of a job from what I've heard due to weight. I can always use few trolley jacks with gearbox trays, but not sure the trouble's worth it.
If I understood the process correctly, I can do the job by myself without any help if I pull the motor. If I'm to drop the gearbox, I may need a helper.
Cheers
P.S. Thanx for the VL commodore tip.

[dom14]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-EXEDY-Clutch-Kit-NISSAN-PATROL-3-0L-Y60-GQ-PETROL-RB30-1989-97-/150611628512?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item23112711e0

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-EXEDY-Clutch-Kit-NISSAN-PATROL-3-0L-Y60-GQ-PETROL-RB30-1989-97-/151459730382?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2343b413ce

[garett]

if your flywheel is wave 'e' or discoloured get it machined. also recommend changing the spigot and thrust bearings. the difference between the normal and heavy duty is the strength of the springs, it has the same friction material. only done one clutch on a patrol, not fun. took the gearbox out.... it was a 3L GU ... never again. but VL is pretty easy just go gentle on the clutch for the first while till it beds properly. my 2 cents worth anyway

[GQ TANK]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Commodore-Clutch-kit-VL-r31-Skyline-Patrol-3-0-Ltr-RB30-Eng-NSK24003-/230897748542?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item35c2940a3e#ht_2094wt_1362

A clutch kit normally includes pressure plate, driven plate and the thrust bearing. You should replace the spigot bearing as well (around $15)

While you have the motor out consider replacing the rear oil seal, any suspect welsh plugs and the timing belt.

[dom14]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Commodore-Clutch-kit-VL-r31-Skyline-Patrol-3-0-Ltr-RB30-Eng-NSK24003-/230897748542?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item35c2940a3e#ht_2094wt_1362

A clutch kit normally includes pressure plate, driven plate and the thrust bearing. You should replace the spigot bearing as well (around $15)

While you have the motor out consider replacing the rear oil seal, any suspect welsh plugs and the timing belt.

Cool, mate.
What did you mean by the "rear oil seal"?!
I know, the timing belt is long overdue. Last time when I reconditioned the head, I could've done it, but didn't have the knowledge about the importance of doing it, 'cos it looked cosmetically pretty good.
Welsh plugs were done by a pro mechanic before that when one of them leaked. He said he checked them all.
Of course, I need to check them again.
If I understood you correctly, you are advising me to pull the motor out to do the clutch, rather than dropping the gearbox, as many have indicated in the previous threads. I think I'm heading that way. Pulling the motor out makes sense to me, 'cos I can do few other long overdue work on the motor, while it's outside, but it will stay outside for about a week for sure.
I'm also considering getting a low km VL or Skyline RB30 and putting it in, & if time allows me, might even attempt the EFI conversion.
Only issue is that mine is a dual fuel. EFI conversion might end up as bit complicated with the dual fuel set up. I need to do more home work on that.
Clutch is the main concern atm. Obviously it's too risky to tow a van across long distances with a clutch that tends to produce funny smell when backing up a light caravan
When I pull the motor out, I'll definitely sort out the oil blowing issue(from rocker cover gasket).
I'll start with valve stem seals, but if it doesn't sound like time well spent, I'll consider a new(second hand) motor with low km.
I think I might have to put off the EFI conversion thingy at this stage, even if I replace the motor.
With dual fuel, it's more than I can handle, atm.

[dom14]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Commodore-Clutch-kit-VL-r31-Skyline-Patrol-3-0-Ltr-RB30-Eng-NSK24003-/230897748542?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item35c2940a3e#ht_2094wt_1362

A clutch kit normally includes pressure plate, driven plate and the thrust bearing. You should replace the spigot bearing as well (around $15)

While you have the motor out consider replacing the rear oil seal, any suspect welsh plugs and the timing belt.

Above is the same clutch kit, but lot cheaper. Thanx mate.

[dom14]

[url]
While you have the motor out consider replacing the rear oil seal, any suspect welsh plugs and the timing belt.

How did you manage to convert the front diff of your GQ into an LSD?
I thought all GQ front diffs were open diffs.
Does this mean the the rear LSD of GQ patrols are interchangeable with front open diffs?
In other words, all we need is get hold of a rear LSD of a GQ and swap it with the existing open front diff?!
When I was doing the rear LSD of my GQ, I remember I measured the lengths of the front and rear diffs('cos they looked pretty identical).
If I remember correctly, they didn't look like the same length.(Mine is an RB30, so the diff is 4:3)
I'll have to look into that again.

[liftlid]

How did you manage to convert the front diff of your GQ into an LSD? I thought all GQ front diffs were open diffs. Does this mean the the rear LSD of GQ patrols are interchangeable with front open diffs? In other words, all we need is get hold of a rear LSD of a GQ and swap it with the existing open front diff?! When I was doing the rear LSD of my GQ, I remember I measured the lengths of the front and rear diffs('cos they looked pretty identical). If I remember correctly, they didn't look like the same length.(Mine is an RB30, so the diff is 4:3) I'll have to look into that again.

I don't know exactly what you need to do but I believe you use a mix of pathfinder and gq parts,
Don't know what it would cost but I would think if you had to pay somebody to do it for you, you might as well have a locker instead!

[dom14]

I don't know exactly what you need to do but I believe you use a mix of pathfinder and gq parts,
Don't know what it would cost but I would think if you had to pay somebody to do it for you, you might as well have a locker instead!

Yeah, I always thought it's better to have a locker(either a manual or electric one) than having an LSD, so we can activate it only when it's needed.
I'm having trouble seeing any advantage of the LSD on normal road driving with our 4WDs, 'cos most of the driving we do with our patrols are on normal roads. It's a subject for another thread, I reckon.

[dom14]

Yeah, I always thought it's better to have a locker(either a manual or electric one) than having an LSD, so we can activate it only when it's needed.
I'm having trouble seeing any advantage of the LSD on normal road driving with our 4WDs, 'cos most of the driving we do with our patrols are on normal roads. It's a subject for another thread, I reckon.

Having a front LSD can be handy and easier job than diff lock I reckon, since it doesn't get used all the time like the rear diff.

[GQ TANK]

The front and rear diffs on the GQ have differnt spline counts and cannot be swapped. If they are the same size then the are h233b? diffs. If the rear diff is a LOT bigger then it is a h260.

Some other vehilces rear diffs have the same spline count as a GQ front.

I used a diff from a MK patrol diesel as it has the same spline count as the front of the gq.

But, The MK has 12mm and the GQ has 14mm bolts on the ring gear (the thread is on the ring gear).

I To fit the MK LSD, I filled the holes on the diff center.

As I have manual hubs, I only use the LSD off road.

The LSD is an improvement over a open diff ( probally nit as good as a diff locker tghough). I have feklt it pulling me though bogs, where I would have got stack with the old open diff.

When I installed the LSD, I also done the wheel and king bearings.

[dom14]

The front and rear diffs on the GQ have differnt spline counts and cannot be swapped. If they are the same size then the are h233b? diffs. If the rear diff is a LOT bigger then it is a h260.

Some other vehilces rear diffs have the same spline count as a GQ front.

I used a diff from a MK patrol diesel as it has the same spline count as the front of the gq.

But, The MK has 12mm and the GQ has 14mm bolts on the ring gear (the thread is on the ring gear).

I To fit the MK LSD, I filled the holes on the diff center.

As I have manual hubs, I only use the LSD off road.

The LSD is an improvement over a open diff ( probally nit as good as a diff locker tghough). I have feklt it pulling me though bogs, where I would have got stack with the old open diff.

When I installed the LSD, I also done the wheel and king bearings.

The reason I thought less favourable of the LSDs is that mine failed at around 300k(fairly suddenly).
I've never bashed the rear diff with tough off roading. It was the pinion bearing that failed.
I thought, if I had a diff locker(manual or electric), I could've trigger it only when I need and save the wear and tear in the diff.
On the other hand, the pinion and crown wheel teeth was in good shape. Obviously they are built pretty tough.

I wouldn't mind installing an LSD on the front of my GQ for future adventures.
If I understood correctly, the easiest way to do it is to locate a pathfinder or navara rear diff?

There's some info here.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?15161-GQ-rear-diff-centre-into-front-housing-(project-idea-for-fun-4ws-buggy).

Can the LSDs negatively affect the stability of the car when taking sharp bends at moderately higher speeds(on built up roads)?
Just a thought.