wiring kit

[Malgreen]

Hey guys,
just a simple question but in my mind i think it would be fine but i thought i would ask for some advice first..

i have a SCA wiring kit and i am wondering if the power cable would be to use between my main battery to the dual battery controller?
i am wiring up a Cteck as my controller,,
also should there be A FUSE from main battery to the controller? according to the basic instruction, there is no sign of one.

the photo is the wiring kit..
57309

[oncedisturbed]

That is a stereo wiring upgrade kit. Not a sparky myself so not 100% sure, what is wiring rated to?

[lucus30]

Hey guys,
just a simple question but in my mind i think it would be fine but i thought i would ask for some advice first..

i have a SCA wiring kit and i am wondering if the power cable would be to use between my main battery to the dual battery controller?
i am wiring up a Cteck as my controller,,
also should there be A FUSE from main battery to the controller? according to the basic instruction, there is no sign of one.

the photo is the wiring kit..
57309

I don't see a reason why you couldn't and yes I'd be using a fuse just make sure its correctly rated.

Others might have a different idea, I'd wrap it in convoluted tube though

[Winnie]

That cable is fine, use a fuse at both batteries.

[Malgreen]

ok guys, thanks for that.. it will be sitting in a tube too so no rubbing through,,,
what size fuze? or circuit breaker?

[Winnie]

Will you be installing a switch to manually link the batteries together, for starting, winching etc?
Or just purely charging?

[the evil twin]

Hey guys,
just a simple question but in my mind i think it would be fine but i thought i would ask for some advice first..

i have a SCA wiring kit and i am wondering if the power cable would be to use between my main battery to the dual battery controller?
i am wiring up a Cteck as my controller,,
also should there be A FUSE from main battery to the controller? according to the basic instruction, there is no sign of one.

the photo is the wiring kit..
57309


ok guys, thanks for that.. it will be sitting in a tube too so no rubbing through,,,
what size fuze? or circuit breaker?

For a Ctek smart pass it is too small a gauge,
For a Ctek D250 it is more than big enough.
The 60 Amp fuse connects to cranker and can stay
The Ctek needs to be as close as possible to the Aux and as such doesn't really need a fuse but 30 Amp is recommended if you do use one

[lucus30]

For a Ctek smart pass it is too small a gauge,
For a Ctek D250 it is more than big enough.
The 60 Amp fuse connects to cranker and can stay
The Ctek needs to be as close as possible to the Aux and as such doesn't really need a fuse but 30 Amp is recommended if you do use one

Isn't the smart pass only capable of handling 80A ? If so I would have thought 4AWG would be OK for short runs?

[Malgreen]

hey evil..
i got the D250s
so i will use A 60a fuse/circuit breaker between the main Battery and the Cteck,then straight to the 2nd battery..
as for linking them, no plans to do this.
the Cteck will be mounted on the fire wall behind the 2nd battery with power cables running across the top of the firewall..
hopefully with 90% of my accessories running form 2nd battery i hope i never flatten my main.
a winch will go on one day but no plans for that yet,,

thanx for the advice guys,,

[the evil twin]

Isn't the smart pass only capable of handling 80A ? If so I would have thought 4AWG would be OK for short runs?

Good point.

The cable has to handle the D250 current as well as the Smart Pass so the load will be considered to be in excess of 100 amps.

If that SCA product is 4 AWG I agree it will be large enough but the label says "4 gauge" not 4 AWG, 4 SWG or whatever which is suss.
I am guessing that if the fuse being supplied is only 60 amp then the cable isn't 4 AWG.
(Supply cables should be fused to reflect cable rating not the load of the device)
If an accessory is rated up near the wiring rating then awesome result and one fuse solves the issue otherwise Accessories or devices should be fused seperately and as close as reasonable to the Accessory.

If it is indeed genuine 4 AWG cable and SCA have, for some reason, only put in a fuse that is about 1/2 what the cable will carry then, yes, it will be OK for a Smartpass/D250 if the supplied fuse is chucked and a 150 amp jobbie used as per Ctek recommendations

[lucus30]

Good point.

The cable has to handle the D250 current as well as the Smart Pass so the load will be considered to be in excess of 100 amps.

If that SCA product is 4 AWG I agree it will be large enough but the label says "4 gauge" not 4 AWG, 4 SWG or whatever which is suss.
I am guessing that if the fuse being supplied is only 60 amp then the cable isn't 4 AWG.
(Supply cables should be fused to reflect cable rating not the load of the device)
If an accessory is rated up near the wiring rating then awesome result and one fuse solves the issue otherwise Accessories or devices should be fused seperately and as close as reasonable to the Accessory.

If it is indeed genuine 4 AWG cable and SCA have, for some reason, only put in a fuse that is about 1/2 what the cable will carry then, yes, it will be OK for a Smartpass/D250 if the supplied fuse is chucked and a 150 amp jobbie used as per Ctek recommendations

OK yeah I was just assuming 4AWG but I guess you could be right it doesn't state it is

[Malgreen]

there was more info on the back of the label,, cant look now as i am 1400km away and wont be back until early May.
the cable is rather thick, but if i cant get the correct info for it i will just use 4awg wire with a 150amp breaker..
just would have liked to use this as its got the battery already soldered on and i don't have a decent soldering iron to do the job..
i was trying to avoid the cost of one for a once off job.. oh well...
as for the wiring kit, i will use it for what it was meant for, wiring up an amp once i get one..
thanx anyway guys

[lucus30]

I'm sure a auto elec wouldn't charge much to crimp a couple of cables for you.

[Malgreen]

yeah thats true,,
ok,, but i have been looking around google about this as i have had a bit of time today,,
looks like 4 gauge is pretty much the same as 4awg..
but i think i will start from scratch,,

[the evil twin]

yeah thats true,,
ok,, but i have been looking around google about this as i have had a bit of time today,,
looks like 4 gauge is pretty much the same as 4awg..
but i think i will start from scratch,,

Nah mate, use it.

It will be heaps good enough for a D250

[Malgreen]

yeah thanx Evil..

now just to work out how to mount the bloody thing,,,lmao

[mudski]

yeah thanx Evil..

now just to work out how to mount the bloody thing,,,lmao

I mounted my C250Dual on the steel plate which is just behind the Aux battery. I think this plate is there for models with ABS, mine doesn't have it...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57436&stc=1

[Malgreen]

not a bad spot, i will look at mine when i get home.
but i think there is a heap of pipes there for the ABS .
i was going to back a bracket on the fire wall but not sure about attaching it as i have no idea whats behind that panel..
there are 2 or 3 bolts that have nothing attached to them on the engine side of the wall but i dont know if i can use then or that they hold some thing else in place on the other side...
i could drill a small hole and stick a probe in to see,, maybe,,lol

[mudski]

I think the abs module is on the other side of the plate I mounted the ctek too. To make things easier I removed the entire plate and mounted it then wired it up.
The only issue here is heat. These dont like heat. So I have ordered some heat shield for the battery and the ctek. This should help a little.
I may even still move it to under the dash on the lhs but thats on my list of things to do.