Wiring Anderson plug..

[Heavyweight]

I need to wire an Anderson plug to the rear of my 2014 ST Wagon, It will be connected to an AUX Battery (when I fit it)..was wondering what is the best route to run the wiring to the rear...

Can I run it through the Chasis rail, or does it need to be run on the outside of the rails?

If I use some twin core 10mm? should I still cover it with that flex tubing stuff?

[Winnie]

Outside the chassis rails...
Definitely cover with split conduit though.

[the evil twin]

Agree ^^^^

Assuming your Aux is in the standard spot on LH side of engine bay and you want the socket on LH side of Tow Bar you will find it runs very nicely across the top of the tow bar to the inner top side of the LH chassis rail then all the way forward and up the LH inner guard.

Ends up nicely protected by the chassis rail from rocks, sticks, ramp over grounding etc

[BigRAWesty]

Outside the chassis rails... Definitely cover with split conduit though.

X2. And 10mm twin core will be ample for everything. That's good for 150A...

[threedogs]

I ran figure 8 along the chassis rail with a thermo couple near the battery and the 50 amp anderson and dust cap at the back
all wrapped in convolutted tubing and cable tied evenly along its length.
Two purposes one to charge the camper battery getting to camp,
and to hook up a solar panel if the Aux battery needs topping up

[mcleod]

Agree ^^^^

Assuming your Aux is in the standard spot on LH side of engine bay and you want the socket on LH side of Tow Bar you will find it runs very nicely across the top of the tow bar to the inner top side of the LH chassis rail then all the way forward and up the LH inner guard.

Ends up nicely protected by the chassis rail from rocks, sticks, ramp over grounding etc

Just did the same as this last night, worked out really well. Definitely in the split conduit

[threedogs]

I also have figure 8 running along the inside to the rear left cut out for the Baintech panel replacement

[Heavyweight]

Thanks for all the info, will have a climb underneath and have a gander, just finished fitting the ARB battery box/tray, next on the list is which type of Battery management system....Have considered the RedArc BCDC1220.http://www.redarc.com.au/products/product/smart-start-bcdc/, anyone used this or have another opinion, have looked at the CTEK stuff, but bit concerned about under bonnet mounting re heat ( read some threads where people mentioned the auto heat protection gets set off under the bonnet due to engine temps)

[Heavyweight]

Hmmmm, maybe a slight change of plans.....the idea was to charge the camper batteries from the auxilary via the anderson plug but it would seem that may not be the best thing..

.http://www.redarc.com.au/handy-hints/wiring_guides/dual_bcdc_setup/

http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=42396.0

[the evil twin]

2 B&S cable via VSR from the Cranker to Aux for under bonnet management (easily the most versatile and cost effective option)

Twin feed from the Aux to an Anderson on the Tow Bar (splice a feed to a power outlet/s in the cargo bay if desired)

Mating Anderson on the Camper draw bar to a BCDC 1220 at the camper batteries.

[Heavyweight]

2 B&S cable via VSR from the Cranker to Aux for under bonnet management (easily the most versatile and cost effective option)

Twin feed from the Aux to an Anderson on the Tow Bar (splice a feed to a power outlet/s in the cargo bay if desired)

Mating Anderson on the Camper draw bar to a BCDC 1220 at the camper batteries.

Thanks, any thoughts re VSR, Projecta RedArc, Pirahna..

https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/public_autoelec/store_v2/product_detail.asp?id=248&cat=28

This price seems ok for a kit

[BigRAWesty]

Thanks, any thoughts re VSR, Projecta RedArc, Pirahna.. https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/public_autoelec/store_v2/product_detail.asp?id=248&cat=28 This price seems ok for a kit

I wouldn't.
That unit has a max current of 170..

Look at red arc.. Max capacity of 400A (I think) burst for your cranking backup.
But if you ain't after the cracking backup and just want a battery isolator under the bonnet them yea that's a good basic kit.

If your asking about the camper end then no good.
That's were you want the bcdc charger as it'll maximise the power after the drop and maintain your camper batteries..
Redarc bcdc is a good unit. The electrical board is all silicon covered to eliminate stuff vibrating and filling with crap..
The ctek is another good bcdc charger and has dual input. So car or solar.

The redarc can be setup with dual input but a little more fiddling at the install.

[the evil twin]

Thanks, any thoughts re VSR, Projecta RedArc, Pirahna..

https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/public_autoelec/store_v2/product_detail.asp?id=248&cat=28

This price seems ok for a kit

Yeah not bad and will do the job.

My personal recommendations FWIW is either Redarc or Intervolt

Redarc are simplest, SBI12 for basic install, SBI12D allows 2 way charging, SBI212 (200 amp version) if you winch a lot

Intervolt are most versatile if you have mixed battery technologies etc http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INTERVOLT-PSR12150-12V-150A-SOLID-STATE-PROGRAMMABLE-VOLTAGE-SENSING-RELAY-/111595560108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19fb9d1cac

For the Camper,
Redarc if you have seperate solar reg etc,
CTEK if you want one box to do both vehicle and solar charging

[Heavyweight]

http://www.traxide.com.au/complete-diy-dual-battery/universal-dbs-kits/sc80-eb.html

Thought I would go with this unit, Australian made, 5 year Parts and labour warranty, lifetime repair guarantee, allows charging both ways, can mount it anywhere...If I need cranking thought I can just run a jumper from + to +.

Under bonnet space is becoming an issue...

56588

Thought I would just run an earth across to the OEM point on the engine

Thanks for all the advice re the dual battery setup, next is the wiring for the Anderson plug
Got the battery in today went with a Supercharge Allrounder seems it should do the job, also Supercheap had a 25% off, so got it for $171...

[threedogs]

replace the nuts on the cross bar battery holder to nylocs or put another two on and lock them up.
They will rattle loose as they are

[Heavyweight]

replace the nuts on the cross bar battery holder to nylocs or put another two on and lock them up.
They will rattle loose as they are

Thanks 3Dogs, bit hard to see in the pic but they are nylocs

[the evil twin]

I do not like those Traxide units at all.
12.0 volts cut off is waaaay too low

With engine off they drain the Cranker and keep all batteries at equal charge unless you drop down below 12.0 volts and both batteries are now sulphating quite heavily.
That is totally the opposite to what I want in an Isolator.
The lowest voltage I would call acceptable is 12.5 (most manuf use 12.7 as default)

They say
"One of the most common problems suffered by cranking batteries is under charging and this is usually caused by what we call the “Shopping Trolley Syndrome”, where vehicles are continuously driven for short periods of time, each time the motor is started.
Because of the unique way the SC80 keeps the cranking battery and the auxiliary battery connected after the motor is stopped, and the fact when driving around town, most auxiliary batteries are usually fully charged, with the SC80, this means when the motor is stopped, if the cranking battery is low, the SC80 allows the auxiliary battery to discharged back into the cranking battery, helping to raise the charge state of the cranking battery.

How can the aux be at a different state of charge (IE fully charged) to the cranker if their system keeps them connected and equalises charge when stopped IE draws down the Aux.
Indeed if you have a higher capacity Aux it will 'steal' some of the charge current available for the Cranker

They also say
"The next time you start your motor, you will be charging two batteries at the same time and as such, you are able to replace twice as much used battery capacity in the short drive time, so over just a few day after fitting an SC80, even your cranking battery will be in a better state of charge."

I call Bullshit, total bullshit actually

Anyway,
If you need an increased capacity in the Redarc etc all you do is flick the switch
If you want to crank off the Aux all you do is flick the switch

[BigRAWesty]

I do not like those Traxide units at all. 12.0 volts cut off is waaaay too low With engine off they drain the Cranker and keep all batteries at equal charge unless you drop down below 12.0 volts and both batteries are now sulphating quite heavily. That is totally the opposite to what I want in an Isolator. The lowest voltage I would call acceptable is 12.5 (most manuf use 12.7 as default) They say "One of the most common problems suffered by cranking batteries is under charging and this is usually caused by what we call the "Shopping Trolley Syndrome", where vehicles are continuously driven for short periods of time, each time the motor is started. Because of the unique way the SC80 keeps the cranking battery and the auxiliary battery connected after the motor is stopped, and the fact when driving around town, most auxiliary batteries are usually fully charged, with the SC80, this means when the motor is stopped, if the cranking battery is low, the SC80 allows the auxiliary battery to discharged back into the cranking battery, helping to raise the charge state of the cranking battery. How can the aux be at a different state of charge (IE fully charged) to the cranker if their system keeps them connected and equalises charge when stopped IE draws down the Aux. Indeed if you have a higher capacity Aux it will 'steal' some of the charge current available for the Cranker They also say "The next time you start your motor, you will be charging two batteries at the same time and as such, you are able to replace twice as much used battery capacity in the short drive time, so over just a few day after fitting an SC80, even your cranking battery will be in a better state of charge." I call Bullshit, total bullshit actually Anyway, If you need an increased capacity in the Redarc etc all you do is flick the switch If you want to crank off the Aux all you do is flick the switch

Wow I'm with you. Total bs speal on a crap product.
Anything to sell I guess

[Heavyweight]

Ok, thanks everyone, will reconsider.....auto electrics is something I struggle with (connecting stuff is one thing) understanding is completely different....will take advice and go the RedArc dual...

Really appreciate everyones input and assistance...

I looked at the Intervolt unit, still to complicated...RedArc seems to be proven....

Since I will have a few twists and turns to fit the RedArc, what is the minimum cable that I could use that would still enable cranking as well as to be easy to manipulate around the engine bay....

"Forums, where would we be without them"........

[threedogs]

"Forums, where would we be without them"........

me personally probably on the side of the Hume somewhere with an overboost issue lol